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Transmission missing shift into gears, high revving etc.. but works if I go slow

16K views 33 replies 9 participants last post by  bonbonb  
Is the atf black and smells burnt?
What atf are you using?
What does your atf look like? Dark gritty, foamy, opaque, ?
What is the code?

For under $50, you can do approx 3 drain and fills of the atf using MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF and also buy a long necked black funnel from WalMart (it fits snugly OVER the dipstick tube). Pretty easy to do yourself.
OdyFamily uses Lubegard Red atf additive and thinks it does a great job.

So, you even have an added on aftermarket atf cooler and it still overheated while just driving down the hwy at around 80 mph. Hopefully that will help others.
Any idea on what brand of atf was in their when the overheat started?

If yours is a 2003, have you ever changed the atf filter mounted on top of the tranny, or, if another filter was added like a Magnefine, changed it?

Hopefully you will get more knowledgeable answers from the tranny experts on this forum.

Yes, what yr is your ODY and at least go into your profile and add it there.

Buffalo4
 
Searcheer also stated that the tranny works better when up to operating temp.
That sounds familiar to past problems which might have been solenoid related????
Also, his post #2 request remains unanswered.

Still, doing the drain and fills with the recommended maxlife or DW-1 and making sure the atf level is where it should be (via dipstick and on the level) would be my first suggestion.

As Odyfamily suggests, the tranny might well have been overfilled.

Buffalo4
 
For the cost and ease of doing more drain and fills using the Valvoline MaxLife Dex\Merc (or the more expensive Honda DW-1) , why not do it?
4 drain and fills replace aprox 90% of the old fluid.
Did you change the filter on top of the tranny, the one that is pretty difficult to get to? I think that is the one you changed.
I suppose the atf cooler in the bottom of the radiator could also be getting clogged up. There are some youtube vids on how to flush that out also.
BTW, there is a filter screen (yes, the OTHER filter) inside the tranny but the tranny needs to be disassembled to change it. Usually the symptoms that that screen is getting clogged shows itself as tranny shift problems after the vehicle is driven for awhile. Then when shut off, enough of the debris falls off and the tranny works fine for a short time, AFAIK.
Why not look up how to access those solenoids and clean their screens. I'm sure you can find that info here or on youtube.
I don't think you ever reported back how much debris was on the magnet in the drain plug, or what the fluid looks like NOW.
Regarding a stuck valve, new ATF does a decent job of cleaning some of the buildups in the tranny. That is one reason why driving between drain and fills is recommended.
Hopefully someone with an experience that is similar to yours will post.
Filling through the dipstick tube with the right funnel is quick and easy, and so is draining the old fluid and cleaning the drain plug magnet.

Any more codes?

Buffalo4
 
BUFFALO MAN !!! LOL - I'VE REPEATED A FEW TIMES THAT ALL THE ORIGINALLY BURNT FLUID IS GONE. LOL!!! :D:tongue::tongue::p ... BUT I ain't complaining... I appreciate ya... I just wanted you to know before replying that the old fluid is already ALLLLL GONE + Filter.

Now...... what you said about internal screens being clogged, then you SHUT IT OFF.. debris falls off and the tranny works fine for a short time..... that is almost exactly what I have going on!!! ... however it does it immediately when I try to drive off from COLD start. But... the thing is.... is the debris stuff that will dissolve or erode away or is it a clog of METAL shards???? !?!?!?! big question there......

Shop did the fluid drain and fill, and they didn't comment on magnet shards... I forgot to ask (which is unlike me.. but been too busy). I WILL SAY THIS THOUGH.... RIGHT WHEN I GOT IT BACK FROM THE SHOP FLUID DRAIN AND FILL... IT WAS DRIVING WONDERFULLY... SMOOTH LIKE IT SHOULD AND JUST GREAT... It wasn't till like the 3rd drive after the shop that it started acting up again. That more evidence to clogged veins/lines?

I've been letting it sit, so no new codes. Just that one I posted a few posts back.

So there is no "trick" to getting the transmission drain plug off??? I've never looked at it because the trans rebuild shop long ago told me there was some trick to it.... that BS?

I have 2 homemade funnels just for my Odyssey for the trans dip stick tube... so I'm good there.
I never did see where you stated that you replaced ALL of the old atf after the incident.
The only way to get rid of ALL the old fluid is to basically take the AT apart, or possibly do a mechanical power flush (not recommended by Honda)
Here is what happens with each drain and fill:
3 1/2qt/drain and fill: 42,66,81,89 ----14 qts total
After a single drain and fill, you have 42% new fluid, 2--66% etc.
You also stated that your AT works better when the fluid is hot (not indicative of a clogged screen in the tranny sump).
There is usually no trick to getting the ATF drain plug loosened or off, AFAIK, at least on my '03 Ody.
Just use a 3'8" ratchet or a 3/8" breaker bar and it should work just fine.
Buffalo4
 
I would imagine that many missed your CODE because it was included inside a quote of my reply that you made in your reply. ( Post #9 )
Hopefully others with more experience will reply.
Again, do at least two more drain and fills of your AT. A single one only gives you around 40% and only drains out about 3 1/2 qts out of a total of the 8.3 qts inside your automatic transmission.
Buffalo4
PS: Did that code come back? Any other codes since?