Possible clogged front spool valve and misfire cylinder #4. Try cleaning the gasket filter and reset the CEL. First go to the auto parts store and ask for the codes to be pulled. May need new spool valve gaskets. Make sure to torque the 3 bolts to 9lb-ft. Cheap to fix if DIY.

 

I should have added into my post that I also changed the spool valve seals.
In fact shortly after I changed the seals and filter is when my issues started. (Face palm)
The old Filter was clean but changed it anyways.

After I saw the code the first time I went back in And checked the seals and filter and everything was still clean and tight.That’s when I replaced the pressure switch as per code.
Drove for a week and a bit and all was fine, then it popped up again with the code and vibrations.

 

3 bolts need a torque wrench at 9lb-ft. Probably over tightened. Vibration is misfire. ECM shuts down fuel to protect the cat. Or possible bad gasket filter is too restrictive. Also suggest maybe change the oil.

 

Checked the bolts. They are good.
Brand new Oil change happened last week immediately after changing the pressure switch.

 

It's normal for ECO to not light up when a CEL is active, whether the CEL is related to VCM or not. Any CEL will disable VCM.

The engine is probably in limp mode which is normal when there's an issue in this system.

OEM spool valve gasket?

 

ECO mode kicked in on the test drive immediately after I changed the pressure switch, cleared the code and test drove it around.

 

Muzzle the VCM and P3497 Valve Pause Stuck Off will not return.

 

Will that fix the vibration as well or is that another separate issue?
The vibration currently accompanies the P3497, with no other codes showing.

 

Vibration is misfire probably P0304. Clear the codes and let the engine cool will cure the misfire. But when ECO turns on the misfire will return. So muzzling does indirectly fix the vibration.

 

That’s interesting.
The only indicator on my reader is the 3497- oil pressure switch bank two.
(Unless I’m not seeing all the codes.

as far asthe misfiring going- I shouldn’t drive it until it’s corrected?
And based on the code, or lack of other codes, the misfire is related directly to the VCM issue?

 

See the green shirt holding the scanner? That's an O'Reilly employee who scanned my daughter's Accord V6 when it got a P3497 with accompanying misfire. It started in Iowa on the way to Nebraska. I gently drove the car for about 120 miles at maybe 70MPH which was the speed with the least vibration. I let the car cool overnight in the hotel parking garage. The next morning, I disconnected the battery, removed and re-torqued the spool valve and adjusted the VCMTuner1 up from 45 to 55. Once the car was running ok I brought it to a local oil change place for fresh 0-W20. I did not want to run the car with any gasoline contaminated engine oil. We then drove 500 miles to Colorado without drama. My mistake was forgetting to warn my daughter to watch out for the ECO light and it was a hot day over 90F. In short, your issue can be solved with a muzzler.

 

Good to know.
We don’t have an O’Reilly’s up here in the great white north. Our closest is Auto Value, and I don’t know if Id trust them 100%.

I appreciate your help.
Now to wait for an updated stock on the VCMtuner.com website
I’ll pick one up next week and install it immediately.

 

If you have VCM, a muzzler like VCMTuner is definitely the way to go; but I doubt that it can also fix your code P3497. If it does, please come back and post your result--you are going to be the first on this board to cure code P3497 with a muzzler.

 

Aah you are correct sorry I thought he said spool valve in his original post.
Replacing just the oil pressure switch will not solve the issue.

 

Lookin to replace my front Spool valve as I have recently been given a P3497 code, accompanied with shaking and vibration in Idle and a sluggish while driving.

I changed out the original seals previous to any issues, with aftermarket seals (I should have known better) and that is immediately when the issues started. I changed out the Oil pressure sensor as directed by the P3497 code and the check engine popped up again 2 weeks later with the same code. I'd like the now look into changing the Spool valve completely, as I believe this was my fist step where it all went wrong.

Dealership wants 1200+ tax for the job.
Parts are only $475, and I'm reasonably mechanically inclined, I just need a step by step video or how to guide.

Thanks.

 

This is for a 2008 Odyssey BTW.

 

Anyone have a guide to changing out the whole Spool Assembly? I'm reasonably mechanical, my only hang-up will be lifting up the rocker arm cover to slide the old spool off and the new one on. do I run the risk of throwing off the timing if I do it?

 

I do not think removal of the valve cover is needed to replace the spool valve.

 

Yeah, you don't touch the bottom half of the spool valve. That's the one that is significantly more work, and you don't need to replace it.

 

No need to start a new thread.

MrRanger already has a video that was linked in your old thread. You do not replace the bottom half that requires you to mess with the rocker assembly. Just the top half.

 

Hmm Interesting. Okay.

Was wondering that. I had originally removed the top half to do the seals. So I am familiar with that process. Very Easy.
I wonder if I should change back to the original seals reset everything and see what happens.

 

What you can do is buy the part from Honda and use the brand new upper half with the new gaskets (there should be 3 gaskets in total)

 

It would be IDENTICAL to your gasket replacement, just that you will replace the top part with new spool valve assembly's top part.

BOTTOM part replacement requires rocker arm assembly removal I believe so that is why the dealership quote is so high.

 

I see on Rockauto that I can buy the top portion of the assembly, or the entire thing.
I’m apt to go with the OEM and pay the extra for Hondas, but wondered if anyone has had success with aftermarket. (Except Dorman, because they are garbage)

 

Really it just depends. I'd go with Honda if you want to make sure you don't have to do this job again for quite some time. But people have had success even with the eBay counterfeit gaskets. It's a gamble.

 

@El Cranicero try stretching out the mesh part of the filter of the replacement gasket

2008 Honda Odyssey P3497

Hello guys, This past week my 08 Honda Odyssey touring threw the p3497 code. I've done some research and checked my oil levels which was low and topped it off for now, will do oil change soon (probably burning oil). I installed two new oil pressure switch front/rear reset the code and turned...

www.odyclub.com

 

Loosen the gas gap.

 

Seriously?

 

Hi guys.
Thought I’d give an update on my progress.

I changed out the entire upper portion of the spool valve about a week ago and cleared the codes. Since then we have driven the vehicle significantly with no new codes appearing.

earlier this week my VCM Tuner 2 arrived in the mail and I installed it last night.
Took the van for a good long ride and the ECO light did not appear on the dash and we did not receive any codes from having the device installed.

thsnks everyone for the help and suggestions.
Great fun fir the hive mind around here.

 

FWIW, P3497 is Valve Pause Stuck Off, applies only to the front bank, and only affects cylinder #4. The VCM is stuck and #4 is stuck Off. The crank position sensor detects the absence of #4 firing and the computer turns off fuel to the #4 injector. So there is a misfire on #4 and it can be felt at all RPMs. It is worse at low RPM and milder at highway speeds. Installing any kind of muzzler will prevent cylinder #4 going to sleep and prevent P3497. Even if you messed up like me and installed cheap Amazon front spool valve gaskets instead of doing it properly with the Honda part, the P3497 should not come back.

 

Yup, that’s exactly what I did at the start of the mess. Installed Amazon gasket. Then got all the fun stuff after that.
Learned a lot in the last 6 weeks about the engine and replaced the Amazon seals with a Honda factory original part with Honda seals and added the vcm tuner 2 for good measure and I’m now off to the races.

 

You have already won. The fact that you now have VCMTuner puts you ahead of the majority who are clueless about VCM until they see the $$$ light.

 

I guess I can thank my dead alternator that started all of this. Haha. Had no idea a leak would drip onto it and kill it. Which led to the gasket change and then the light and then further study.