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VCM Muzzler for 2015 Odyssey?

7.8K views 8 replies 8 participants last post by  egads  
#1 ·
I have read the forum discussions of the use of the Muzzler for Odyssey vans to 2013, but have not found anything related to my model year. Wonder if anything would be gained by putting it on my 2015 Odyssey Touring. Thoughts please.
 
#2 ·
Same deal as the 2011-2013 vans. The 'standard tension' piston rings on the 2014-2017 vans delays the issue a bit, but it is still present. The same problems and fixes apply to the 2014+ vans.

-Charlie
 
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#4 ·
There is NO functional difference between the engines in 2011-2013 Odysseys and those in 2014-2017 Odysseys. The different piston ring business is a load of crap Honda is pushing as a smokescreen for the real problem, which is VCM2 itself. Muzzle your 2015 and sidestep the issue completely.
 
#7 ·
As a point of reference, I have a late 2013 which does not qualify for the class action lawsuit extended warranty. I had the issue crop up at about 95k miles with a cylinder 2 misfire. Took to dealer, started with replacing spark plugs b/c they and Honda NA insisted my car wasn't covered. 5k miles later, cylinder 2 misfier happened again. This time, after researching on the board, I changed the offending plug (soaked in oil) and installed a muzzler. It has now been 17k miles, including a 600 mile road trip and a 1500 mile road trip, and the car has been great. No ECO mode and no oil. There was a little residual oil early on, but that has burned off.

I strongly recommend getting a muzzler. Just because Honda only covered 2011, 2012 and some 2013 models under their extended warranty doesn't mean that all those outside the range are free of those issues. Based on my reading here, many 2013+ vehicles still suffer from this issue. Better to invest $100-$130 now than to spend hundreds to thousands later for a preventable issue. Even a spark plug change is $200+.
 
#9 ·
The seller of the VCMTUNERII Advanced has a installation video on his site:


As he says in that video, if you have the keyless start, the key should be far away so the Engine Control Module (ECM) does not wake up. He says to wait at least 30 minutes. For the engine to cool down. My recommendation is to do it in the AM when the engine is stone cold. This way you not only will you not have a check engine light, but you don't burn yourself. The whole logic here is that, if the ECM senses an abrupt change in the reported engine temperature, it will set a check engine light. Now most folks do find that it goes away after a few drive cycles, however, if one is handing the van to a partner...