Anyone use an alternative power source to connect the VCM TUNER II? I have 2014 EXL and the only way to connect the ring terminal to the positive battery post is the 10mm bolt used to clamp the cable to the car battery. I thought there was another bolt under the plastic cover to connect the ring terminal but there is not. I tried connecting it to the bolt on the cable clamp but it interferes with the plastic cover no matter how I bend the ring terminal not to mention it looks hokie and I also see nothing but future problems with corrosion with this connection. Is there another source available under the hood or do I have to run a line to a fuse panel inside the car??
DanW
would like to see the trick of using that battery mount on the gen 4.
there was no room for mine to fit between the airbox / intake snorkel.
ended up and removing the bracket and tucking it down below the battery base.
there was no room for mine to fit between the airbox / intake snorkel.
ended up and removing the bracket and tucking it down below the battery base.
I've just installed mine in my garage, it's fantastic! My avg. gas mileage (according to the dash) went-up 5 or more-points! It runs smoother, and i guess this explained why we we've been having horrible gas mileage!
It took me an hour to do, i just got back from a 5-15 min test drive, drove it on the highway and in the city. I had it checked for codes by Autozone, came clean, and i'm gonna take it to my mechanic to have him pullout his $10,000 scan tool that detects every code because those cheap one's from Autozone don't detect them all. I made sure the electrical connections CLICKED and were tight to not trigger any codes. Note, my car is old so the CLICK wasn't as pronounced but i gently-pulled on it to make sure it was secure and in. I should've taken pictures while i had it open but i managed to get a few post-work shots. They're not in order though. I had to re-tie the velcro strap because it had slid down and wasn't tight enough.
The instructions said something about applying the parking break, shutting off the A/C, while it's in park and shutoff for at least 30-min before doing anything, so i applied the parking break and made sure to disengage it before driving-off, lol. And the A/C was already off.
Should i, or should i have, reset my car's computer via unplugging the negative battery terminal and switching the headlights on and off? Should i have done that just to be safe to prevent myself from shortening anything e.g. touching the blue cable to the positive terminal?
I was disappointed how the provided instructions didn't have color HD pictures. We're paying $136 for this and they can't get HD color pictures?
That's why this young guy's youtube video helped me a lot (since he had my Gen4) except i had the tuner leaning to the left, like in the instructions, not the right:
"Honda VCM Tuner II Eco Delete And Info" (6-min)
Tools and Supplies used:
It took me an hour to do, i just got back from a 5-15 min test drive, drove it on the highway and in the city. I had it checked for codes by Autozone, came clean, and i'm gonna take it to my mechanic to have him pullout his $10,000 scan tool that detects every code because those cheap one's from Autozone don't detect them all. I made sure the electrical connections CLICKED and were tight to not trigger any codes. Note, my car is old so the CLICK wasn't as pronounced but i gently-pulled on it to make sure it was secure and in. I should've taken pictures while i had it open but i managed to get a few post-work shots. They're not in order though. I had to re-tie the velcro strap because it had slid down and wasn't tight enough.
The instructions said something about applying the parking break, shutting off the A/C, while it's in park and shutoff for at least 30-min before doing anything, so i applied the parking break and made sure to disengage it before driving-off, lol. And the A/C was already off.
Should i, or should i have, reset my car's computer via unplugging the negative battery terminal and switching the headlights on and off? Should i have done that just to be safe to prevent myself from shortening anything e.g. touching the blue cable to the positive terminal?
I was disappointed how the provided instructions didn't have color HD pictures. We're paying $136 for this and they can't get HD color pictures?
That's why this young guy's youtube video helped me a lot (since he had my Gen4) except i had the tuner leaning to the left, like in the instructions, not the right:
"Honda VCM Tuner II Eco Delete And Info" (6-min)
Tools and Supplies used:
- GLOVES: blue nitrile "turn your head and cough" type, 100-pk box from Lowe's for $20. (I had store-credit) Always wear tight gloves when working with electrical, our bodies generate electricity and our skin has acidic oil. They also keep your hands clean and make cleanup easier.
- #3 long and girthy flat-head screw driver. (For removing plastic engine cover)
- #2 long and medium-size flat-head screwdriver (for removing the one plastic clip that holds-down my air scoop that covers the battery.)
- 10mm medium size wrench.
- The provided wing nut and velcro tie band for securing cables.
- Battery Cleaner & Corrosion Detector aerosol spray can from Walmart.
- A toothbrush (i used for removing some of the black goop that was on the nut of the positive battery terminal.)
- Corrosion Preventer aerosol can spray from Walmart.
- A shop towel. (For wiping spray off places you don't want it on.)
- Two new air scoop clips from Autonation Honda Parts Dept. for $10 (Wholesale price)(The one's that were on there weren't OEM and were a pain to remove.)
- My smartphone for watching youtube demo's of this.
- The provided instructions.
Attachments
Jump to 31:55. This is on his 3rd gen also but note a more secure mount point. For the 4th gen others posted a few pics in various threads of their mount point... They all vary as spacing and battery position varies between the two gens looks like.
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I did mine below side on the frame where ground bolt is and tucked it in a little. The wires are long enough to reach ect and batt connections.
I did mine below side on the frame where ground bolt is and tucked it in a little. The wires are long enough to reach ect and batt connections.
+1. Yeah if installed, not touching anything, and enough slack, leave it alone. I also wrapped some of the wire protector on the red wire too. I did have some rodent issue once and noticed brake sensor wires chewed. So just took precaution.
Also I chose different mount point (at ground wire point on frame) so that it does not get messed up during battery change/install. When I am not available, its AAA or some shop. So kept it dummy-proof. Alternate would be like the other members suggested.
Also I chose different mount point (at ground wire point on frame) so that it does not get messed up during battery change/install. When I am not available, its AAA or some shop. So kept it dummy-proof. Alternate would be like the other members suggested.
My engine light has just came-on, i'm pretty sure it's the tuner because ours never comes-on. How do i resolve this? Do i have to take it to a mechanic and have him clear it? Should i unplug the negative battery terminal for 15-seconds then plug back in to reset the computer?
@LeonSKennedy
When did you order your Tuner II?
Did you all see this?
When did you order your Tuner II?
Did you all see this?
recall
Recall on VCMTUNER II units shipped between 1/4/2022 and 1/10/2022. Order dates between 12/28/2021 ad 1/3/2022.We have seen a number of units not respond over the past week from customer feedback, some lockup and some are completely failed and do not respond after a power reset. Symptoms...
www.vcmtuner.com
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