If it's like either in the picture KaiManson posted in another thread,

Replaced alternator still having same problems

HELP! I am having troubles with my 2008 Honda odyssey. My battery light came on and then my VSA came on and the ABS And I hit the gas and I was getting RPMs but it's like I wasn't getting enough power to move the van like it normally would. Long story short... I have put a new battery on...

www.odyclub.com

then it should be clear if it's a Denso!

 

Why are you worried about replacing a working alternator. You'd be better getting a cheap multimeter and checking alternator voltage every few months, or better yet:

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I have one, and it's great.

 

Perhaps a stupid question, but I'll ask anyway. I do test the voltage periodically on my cars before a road trip, just in case. But I thought there were other ways that alternators could die suddenly even though they are putting out the current voltage the day before?

 

I think that confirms mine isn't a Denso, then. The Denso has a different part number. I'm surprised the sticker I see doesn't have a brand on it. Maybe there's another sticker in a hidden spot that I can't see.

I tested it with a voltmeter and it's charging at the correct 14v. So it clearly works. I'm just concerned that it's going to die unexpectedly on me one day.

 

Alternator can absolutely work one moment and crap out the next.

 

I would try running the car with every load you can find turned on. Turn on both AC units full blast, high beam headlights, wipers, radio, rear defrost, etc. If you still have 13V or better on the battery then it's working fine.

 

It was charging at 14.3v at idle. I'm not sure how accurate my multimeter is, but my Camry was charging 14.5v according to it, so it seems to be fine. I'll have to try it with full load to make sure it can handle such a load.

I remember reading that you changed your alternator preventatively before it actually broke. My understanding is the OEM alternator tends to make noise before failing. But, since mine is no longer OEM... is it common for alternators to fail suddenly with no warning?

 

Yes, they can fail suddenly with no warning. That's usually how they fail.

 

Curious what you would do if you were me. Would you replace the currently functioning off-brand alternator with a Denso reman for piece of mind or wait until there might be an indication of some issue?

 

If it's working fine, and can carry the load while keeping the voltage up, I'd leave it be.

 

And... if it's not a Denso, doesn't that mean it won't last long?

Not necessarily.

My one-word description for a generic alternator would be "unpredictable". It could fail today, or it could last many years.

I do understand your concern for reliability. Also I realize that my logic will do absolutely nothing to abate your concern. It wasn't meant to.

 

Not necessarily.

My one-word description for a generic alternator would be "unpredictable". It could fail today, or it could last many years.

I do understand your concern for reliability. Also I realize that my logic will do absolutely nothing to abate your concern. It wasn't meant to.

Yup, unpredictable is what scares me. Wouldn't be as concerned if it was a train station commute car, but for a road trip car...

It does seem silly to me to replace a perfectly functioning alternator. But, I plan on keeping this car for another 10+ years at a minimum and since it's almost certain I'll have to replace the alternator some time within the next 10 years anyway, I'm really conflicted if I should just replace it now.

 

Order a Denso from RockAuto and replace it then. The issues I've seen with the local parts house remans is in the regulator. It won't supply enough amperage to run everything. They are fine with low to normal loads but as soon as you load them up the voltage drops. They just can't put out the current.

 

This is helpful, thanks --- I'll watch out for this now that I know what to look for with the parts house remans.

 

In my case the battery light would get on, only when the ac and radio was on. After having those accessories off the battery light would go off within mins. I knew the alternator was about to kick the bucket.

The next day I bought my Denso replacement from Rock Auto. Remember that you have to send back the core back. Not sure how it would work with a non-denso core.

 

Not sure how it would work with a non-denso core.

Core is the core, brand makes no difference. You just have to send back an Honda Odyssey alternator.

 

Would these high amperage alternators be much more reliable and avoid the low voltage issue? Have anyone try to use one of these? I think the OEM outputs about 130 amp. Honda Odyssey High Output Alternators

 

So, a follow up question. I'm doing a little reading, and I'm a little confused:

RockAuto lists Denso 210-0580 for 2007 LX and EX (non-VCM). My car is an 07 EX-L with VCM.

There is also a Denso 210-0575, but RockAuto says it is for 2005-2006 with VCM. Did not say it was compatible with 2007.

I'm reading here that the only difference is the pulley. Which is fine, but which is the part correct part number for my car? Use the one for 07 EX, or 06 EX-L?

 

This is what I found from the Denso's website.

 

That is so strange that RockAuto lists the 210-0575 as only compatible with 2005-2006. I suppose that means that is the correct part number for the 2007 EX-L.

Replacing your alternator, where to find parts and other...

Well, the original alternator on our 2007 EX-L/NAV/RES died recently. I followed the instructions from this site and got it out OK. Found three shorted positive rectifier diodes and one weak (leaky) diode on the negative side, so the "rebuild" kit that I bought online, consisting of a...

www.odyclub.com

This poster also said that the 210-0575 is the correct part, but then he ordered it and it came with the wrong pulley!

 

This poster also said that the 210-0575 is the correct part, but then he ordered it and it came with the wrong pulley!

I have replaced alternators on two separate 2007 Odyssey with VCM
Both times used 210-0575. Both were exact replacements and fit like a glove

 

@ Carid.com

 

There are many, many things that can/will probably fail on your 13 year old Honda before that alternator calls it quits.
It makes me wonder about the original one you had; my original alternator went 205,000 miles and I changed it at the 200k t-belt interval just for peace of mind. If you insist on changing it, I'd probably do it at the same time you change the motor mounts, O2 sensors, etc.
For what it's worth I replaced mine with a Denso unit and did the radiator at the same time (among other things), not because they had failed, but because I felt they had "done their job."

 

There are many, many things that can/will probably fail on your 13 year old Honda before that alternator calls it quits.
It makes me wonder about the original one you had; my original alternator went 205,000 miles and I changed it at the 200k t-belt interval just for peace of mind. If you insist on changing it, I'd probably do it at the same time you change the motor mounts, O2 sensors, etc.
For what it's worth I replaced mine with a Denso unit and did the radiator at the same time (among other things), not because they had failed, but because I felt they had "done their job."

Seems like the OEM alternators on the 2007-2010 vans are extremely failure prone. I'm more concerned about the alternator than motor mounts, O2 sensors, and some other items since those I can replace as necessary (when they break). Those items won't leave me stranded the way an alternator might.

The radiator is another one of those items that will break at some point and leave me stranded... I do plan on changing it pre-emptively maybe a few years down the road.

 

Since its not an easy job to R & R these I would leave it alone. Its not that old, even if its a generic rebuild 4 years and 50k miles should be expected unless they flat out screwed up the rebuild.
As John Clark suggested, load it up and check the output.

If youre worried about failure on a road trip, there are situations to avoid. First off make sure your starter and charge cables are in good order, connectors tight and free of corrosion. Make sure your battery isnt failing. And never let it fall below 11volts. Leaving a dome light on all night draining a battery to nil just once will lose half a battery's reserve capacity.
A situation that would really stress an alternator might include playing the radio parked on a hot summer day for an hour, then starting it when the sun was setting so you turn the lights on, then it started raining so you turned on the wipers. But it was still hot so you turned on the AC.
Then you picked up your disturbed brother in law from the mental institution and he runs the window up and down, and up and down, and... you get the idea.
LOL just remember alternators dont like too much heat or too many demands at once.

 

Since its not an easy job to R & R these I would leave it alone. Its not that old, even if its a generic rebuild 4 years and 50k miles should be expected unless they flat out screwed up the rebuild.
As John Clark suggested, load it up and check the output.

If youre worried about failure on a road trip, there are situations to avoid. First off make sure your starter and charge cables are in good order, connectors tight and free of corrosion. Make sure your battery isnt failing. And never let it fall below 11volts. Leaving a dome light on all night draining a battery to nil just once will lose half a battery's reserve capacity.
A situation that would really stress an alternator might include playing the radio parked on a hot summer day for an hour, then starting it when the sun was setting so you turn the lights on, then it started raining so you turned on the wipers. But it was still hot so you turned on the AC.
Then you picked up your disturbed brother in law from the mental institution and he runs the window up and down, and up and down, and... you get the idea.
LOL just remember alternators dont like too much heat or too many demands at once.

Thanks for this advice. Kind of along the lines of what I was thinking too --- it was just installed a few months ago so it should be good to go for another few years. I'll leave it alone for another 3-4 years, and then if it hasn't failed by then, I'll probably replace it with a Denso rebuilt unit. All while monitoring the output when under heavy load before any long trips I take (especially in the summer).

 

jiantao, I'm 73+, and I worry about body parts failing without warning. And certainly, with Corona about in the land, I worry about that also.

Just drive on, monitor the voltage and use your ears.

 

Any idea what the difference is? I looked at the Denso site and the spec tables are identical, the plug type and pin layouts are the same and comparing the photos, they also look the same except the 0580 has a black pulley while the 0575 has a silver pulley. If the only difference is the pulley, I wonder if they swapped pulleys with my original alternator.

I'll have to take a look and see what they actually installed.

 

I knew this conversation sounded familiar, back to the history we go, read the entire thread

Difference between these two alternators?

'05 EXL Odyssey Alternator replacement underway -- it would appear the alternator I have (Denso reman) for replacement is indicated for the EX/LX models and not the EXL (according to Amazon's and other parts sites compatibility checkers). However... they look identical and have identical specs...

www.odyclub.com

 

You ever wish you hadn't started reading a thread? This is one of those for me - as they say ignorance is bliss.

Well as it turns out I don't have an alternator remanufactured by Denso but it had a label with DL 15564 and a Tech Support number which looks like it was remanufactured by Motorcar Parts of America. They do private label so it is probably a Duralast. At this MPA website catalog, it says a 11099 is for the Touring and 15564 is for all other trims. The only difference I saw is it says the 11099 weighs 12.67 lbs vs. 12.14 lbs for the 15564.

@maxud read the old thread you provided, but it sounds like the difference is the pulley, and even then seems more cosmetic with diameter and offset being the same.

Everything seems ok right now, so I probably won't do anything, but if it is going to fail I hope it happens in the next 15 months while it is still under the 24 month parts and labor warranty from the shop.

 

You ever wish you hadn't started reading a thread? This is one of those for me - as they say ignorance is bliss.

Well as it turns out I don't have an alternator remanufactured by Denso but it had a label with DL 15564 and a Tech Support number which looks like it was remanufactured by Motorcar Parts of America. They do private label so it is probably a Duralast. At this MPA website catalog, it says a 11099 is for the Touring and 15564 is for all other trims. The only difference I saw is it says the 11099 weighs 12.67 lbs vs. 12.14 lbs for the 15564.

@maxud read the old thread you provided, but it sounds like the difference is the pulley, and even then seems more cosmetic with diameter and offset being the same.

Everything seems ok right now, so I probably won't do anything, but if it is going to fail I hope it happens in the next 15 months while it is still under the 24 month parts and labor warranty from the shop.

I was disappointed to find out last week that mine was a "15564" and not a Denso, as well. My guess is that mine is also a Duralast.

Reading these alternator threads really has my head spinning. Denso says there is the 210-0580 alternator for LX/EX, and 210-0575 for EX-L/Touring. That I can understand, VCM vs non-VCM. But, some members are saying that there is no real difference between these 2 alternators. Then, RockAuto is saying that 210-0575 is only compatible with 2005-2006, not 2007. But Max and kaimanson cleared this up above confirming that it is also compatible with 2007. Others are saying that you can actually use either alternator without a problem.

Then, there is the aftermarket 15564 which is supposedly for LX/EX/EX-L and the 11099 for the Touring. How is it, that the non-VCM alternator works on the EX-L, but somehow the Touring (which mechanically is the same as the EX-L) has a different part number? I'm beginning to think that all these alternators are the same and that you're right, perhaps the pulley difference is purely cosmetic...

 

Having worked in the Aftermarket alternator business if I remember right the only difference between the 0580 and 0575 was a mounting boss or bracket on the frame. Electronics were the same. By the way, your alternator could be an OEM reman, meaning it’s got all Denso parts so same as a Denso reman.

 

yeah, trying to figure out differences between the two has reached epic levels for me. I compared the breakdown diagrams again. From the parts you can actually buy from Honda, the only two parts that differ are the pulleys, with LX pulley costing nearly double of EXL pulley. Paying close attention to diagram, there are parts that you can't buy separately from Honda, which are the front part of the casing, which incorporates mounting bosses.
I tried to closely compare pictures of both styles of alternators, but the differences must be minute, because I can't see them visually.
All I can tell is every main manufacturer, Denso, Remy, Bosch, etc lists two separate alternators for LX and EXL trims. If they could be easily interchanged, I think aftermarket companies would jump on the bandwagon and only produce one item that fits both trims. Its what aftermarket companies excel at, reducing inventory and part count in process.

I personally would not risk putting part that is not fit for the trim I am working on, due to liability.

 

Well, based on lots of conversations here on the forum, Denso (OEM) is the only way to go. Duralast don't last!