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Rear AC lines are leaking - UGG - Blockoff kit or replace lines

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davedejonge

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

My 05 Ody has a leak for the 2nd time in the rear lines. The first time I had a splice put on that lasted 2 years. Now the line is leaking again (different spot). The garage gave me 2 options. Replace the entire line for $$$ or, block off the lines so only the front AC works.

Anyone had any experience with the block off of the rear AC lines? I see a lot of place that sell for other manufactures, but not many for honda.

There is one kit online from "streetrodguys.com" but there are no reviews.

Anyone have any recommendations?
 
#4 ·
I think he is recommending that you replace the lines.
 
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#5 ·
Advance Auto Parts has the block-off kit.

On the other hand, if you this yourself, then the cost is low.

The #1 cause: failure to rinse salt off. Every Spring, around April or so, I get the garden hose and got underneath to spray the aluminum lines, starting from the firewall all the way back to the RR wheel area.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Okay, I am considering installing the rear lines myself, then having the shop vac and charge the system when finished.
Anyone know how difficult it is to remove the rear lines? Book says 2 hrs apparently... I've not looked close yet, but I'm assuming the rear condenser is in the passenger side wall beside the rear seat?
Anyone done this themselves? The shop wants $800 for it if they do all the work.
 
#7 ·
I recently replaced by Denso Compressor (front seal leaking), some relevant info (volume of oil to add etc.) is below:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-20...-2005-2010-odyssey/173122-diy-2007-honda-odyssey-ac-compressor-replacement.html

My thoughts:

1. If your AC compressor is more than 150K, consider replacing the AC compressor b/c your system is being evacuated and recharged anyway.
This service alone is about $100.
Anyway, an option to think about.

2. The metal lines:
- Once disconnected, immediately cap the open ends (the ends that go to the van) with ziploc bag and rubber bands to prevent moisture from entering the system.
- Do this on a dry day, i.e., avoid rainy days!
- Use flared wrenches: one to turn and one to counter-hold.
- Replace the appropriate O-rings that seal let's say metal line A and metal line B together.
 
#8 ·
Below is just a sample photo of what you will need: metal lines and O-rings etc.
Best is to stop by Honda dealer and ask a Honda mechanic there to help you with what parts you need (what O-ring, lines etc.).
You will need to physically check the lines routing from Front to Back and figure out how many lines need to be replaced.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I'm very certain the longer lines will need replacing, the shorter one that connect to the rear condensor, I'm not sure of yet. If they ( the shorter ones do need replace) I need to know how to get to where they attach to the condensor in the van. I'm assuming its behind the plastic on the passenger side beside the rear bench?
And do the lines thread thru the floor with much difficulty? Special gasket of some type or ??
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I'm going to give it a shot...
I need to replace the narrower of the 2 lines running to the rear.

based on this link that would be the front AC line, not the Suction line correct? Suction line would be the wider of the 2?

2005 Honda Odyssey Parts - OEM Honda Parts Online


I'll be using this link

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/23363-how-do-you-remove-rear-trim-panels.html

to remove the back panel so I can get at the termination fitting for the the Front Rear Line.

I'll need new o rings for the 2 ends, and some patience to get the clamps and holding points freed up.

any other suggestions other than to cap/cover the "good" ends of the lines as I am removing the leaking line?

CNN where did you get that picture of the parts diagram you posted earlier, the one I linked in this reply doesn't show the detail of part numbers on the brackets like yours does. I already know I need the bolt listed as number 13 from my adventures last night.
 
#12 ·
davedejonge said:
...CNN where did you get that picture of the parts diagram you posted earlier, the one I linked in this reply doesn't show the detail of part numbers on the brackets like yours does. I already know I need the bolt listed as number 13 from my adventures last night.
Click to expand...
I use "Majestic Honda" dealer website.
 
#13 ·
I took some photos from an ebay listing to show you the anatomy of the AC lines.

Note:

- Coolant Lines are different.

- AC Lines have insulation around them, if I were you, I'd replace both because once a line has corroded, the other line is not far from problem! They are not expensive, but the labor is!

- Your best bet is to go to a Honda dealer and ask a mechanic EXACTLY what you need. They will be glad to help you.

Also, do this job on a Fri/Sat and make sure you have access to dealer parts dept in case you need odds and ends.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
CNN I was hoping to drop the AC lines independently of the Coolant , Your pictures make it look like that might not be possible, especially that shot showing the rear of the lines going up to the rear HVAC unit. When I crawled under my van last night it looked like that back cluster could be separated into 2 parts allowing the ac lines to separate out... is that not possible? or would it be easier to drop the coolant lines at the same time?

Thanks so much for all your help!

DAve
 
#15 ·
I think you stop by the Honda dealer and ask for advices from their mechanics.
I am sure they have done it before.

Over the years, I have found dealer mechanics to be useful, when dealing with difficult issues, I always come there and "pick their brain".
I always got the technical tips I needed from the mechanics.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
I really appreciate your input CNN, very helpful. I plan to give this a try tonight. Hopefully nothing is rusted to bad and I can leave the power tools in their boxes. I'll post up tomorrow with my progress.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
I got the line in last night. It took me 4.5 hrs and was about the dirtiest job I have ever done but It got it.
Pictures to follow probably on Monday after the Easter weekend.
IT wasn't overly difficult except when trying to get the new line in place without bending / damaging the new line or the old lines still in place. If you can do your own rotors / calipers, you can do this too.

Hopefully I can get this vacuum tested and re filled today so I'll have AC this weekend for the 8hrs we will be in the van.

Happy Easter all.

Dave
 
#19 ·
Great, Happy Easter.

Post photos later. Please include all the part numbers (incl. O-rings etc.).
I am sure someone will find it useful later.

PS: As a reminder for people living in the North: every Spring (April/May), get a garden hose, kneel down and spray upward toward the AC lines to rinse off the salt. The AC metal lines are directly below the Passenger-side Sliding Door area.
 
#20 ·
the AC line usually leaks from one or both of the the brackets holding the AC and heater lines. Just buy a repair kit from the following website.

autocoolingsolutions.
com/ac-lines/a-c-line-repair-kit-14mm-tr145m


I suggest you buy the 36" length even if you only have leak from one of the brackets. If the other is not leaking it will leak soon. The 36" will be enough to cover both brackets. The repair line will not fit in the bracket so you will have to use cable ties to fasten it. I replaced the low pressure return line which is 14.5mm in diameter. I used a pipe cutter and fixed the line at home and had the AC gas filled at a local garage for $75 Canadian.
 
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