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problem with altinator charging

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dtrixny

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi i was driving and the lights started to come on little by little till it looked like a Christmas trees. The speedometer stop working n the miles disappeared. I get stuck at a light had to be towed. I took a guess it was altinator cause when u give it a jump it starts right up and when u take wire off it dies.

I bought an altinator and replaced it and when i was done and gave it a jump it started, 5min later all lights on batt dead tried a few times n nothing. I returned it had them give me another one and tested. I installed, gave it a jump it started great 5 mins later same problem dead, all lights on the datch till it went all dead dim lights. Help please.

I checked fuse all seem good, need help
 
#3 ·
Step 0: inspect the battery negative post ground braid strap for integrity.
Step 1: if battery is over 4 years old replace it.
Step 2: measure the DC voltage across the battery posts (not at the wires) key off.
Step 3: measure the DC voltage across the battery posts when engine is at 1000rpm.

let us know.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I just noticed you also posted about the TCS light and rough running around the same time as you posted this one. More info as both of these problems probably have the same cause.

It almost sounds like a bad battery cable connection that temp gets ok when you put the jumper cables on its connectors.
Maybe even the wires in the battery cables are corroded or broken.
The dash lights are typical when the voltage gets low (low or failing battery, corroded bat connections, etc)

It is not recommended to put a new alternator on a vehicle with a dead battery and then let IT charge the battery. The battery should be charged up first as not doing so could cause the alternator to overheat and possibly fail. Still, 5 min should not do any harm to it since it should take longer to get too hot. Did the returned alt show bad when they tested it? It is possible , but very unlikely, for two rebuilt alt in a row to be bad.
I would suspect that the battery is shorted or worn out.
As 'diver dave' says:
Check battery cable connectors for tightness and corrosion. Check grounding strap from neg bat terminal cable to frame. Check grounding strap from frame (near radiator top) to engine.
Check battery voltage and make sure it is aprox 12.5v or higher with the engine off. If not, put it on a charger and charge it. Then try again. While it is running, check the voltage and it should read above 13.5v (indicates charging). If it dies again, check bat voltage again with the engine still off.
Check the posts below 'Similar Threads' below for possible ideas.
Buffalo4
 
#6 ·
Sounds familiar to an issue I had before. With a fully charged battery, make sure to test the voltages again after engine warm up. The alternator might test fine with initial load test. If regulator is going bad, it will only show when alternator is hot.
 
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#8 ·
Do you have a multimeter? While the engine is idling see what the voltage is on the battery posts not the terminal. Then do the terminal not the posts. As what Buffalo4 said it could be a bad batch of Rebuilt alternators. Also i have seen a few bad test bench machines. When the place auto parts place do the test it will test fine but when you do it in the vehicle it will fail. If you have a jumper cable. Connect the negative part of the jumper cable to the negative terminal of the battery then connect the other part to the engine block or somewhere it will have good electrical connection. This will provide an alternate route for the electrons going to the negative post/terminal other than the original negative cable. If the stalling goes away you found your problem. Do you have another vehicle that has the same battery configuration? Let me know.
 
#9 · (Edited)
If the battery dies, you can still move the shifter if you put your key into the small covered slot on the top of the steering column, close to the dash (usually covered by a small plastic cap). That way you can get it into N or any gear position with a dead battery.
Buffalo4
PS: If a relay drained the battery in 5 minutes it would have to get very hot.
Does your battery go dead when the engine dies?
Do otto888man's test to help eliminate a grounding problem from the battery to the engine.
Also check the 100 amp fuse to see if its terminals are clean and also the main relay.
 
#10 ·
Actually it is a Fuse #41 (120 amp) in the under the hood fuse/relay box.
Fuse #42 (50 amp) is for the ignition.
Several problems:
We don't know if the battery voltage is going way down when the engine quits.
If it does, try another battery temporarily. (just disconnect the battery cables and use jumper cables from the 'new' battery to the disconnected battery cable connectors) or remove the old battery and put in a fresh fully charged battery to try.
Right now, there is not enough info. If the battery does keep a charge, what electrical items don't work, of which ones do.
There are ways to measure the amperage draw on the system while it is off and while it is running.

Buffalo4
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
ok after 2 alternators, chasing wires, chaging altinator....testing stuff.. it came out to be fuse had blown out also and it was the one no1 thought about..the cruse control fuse was broken and that was the fix to my problem. I never thought it would be there, since i wasnt looking for it.. after that it started charging... clear out the check engine code and its been good...


both Odys are now fix, its funny how both went down at the same time..

thank you all for your input and tips... by the way the fuse was under the steering wheel
 
#12 · (Edited)
dtrixny said:
ok after 2 alternators, chasing wires, chaging altinator....testing stuff.. it came out to be fuse had blown out also and it was the one no1 thought about..the cruse control fuse was broken and that was the fix to my problem. I never thought it would be there, since i wasnt looking for it.. after that it started charging... clear out the check engine code and its been good...
Click to expand...
Never would have thought of that one. Good job, dtrixny!

...and thanks for posting back. Somebody might need this in the future.

OF
 
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#14 · (Edited)
That was probably fuse #6 (15 A) in the Driver's side under-dash fuse/relay box.
According to the '03 owner's manual, it protects the "ECU (PCM), Cruise Control".

However in the Shop Electrical Manual: That fuse labeled 'ECU,Cruise Control' protects: "Automatic transmission controls, Charging system,
Cruise control, Engine mount control system,
Evaporative emission control system, Navigation
system (’00-’04), PGM-FI" .

Drtixny, did you notice problems with any of the other mentioned items? I did notice that you previously had problems with the TCS.etc
Well, something blew out that fuse and if it happens again, the above list may give a clue.

In you post #7, I mis-read 'charge' as 'change' and took it as :after charging the battery, something still caused the vehicle to die within 5 min.
That misled me.


Thanks for posting that as it could save someone a lot of expense and work and frustration.
Buffalo4
PS: Did you see my post (#9) on how to get the shifter to work with a bad battery?
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Bufalo the other problem was for my ody. Some people thought it was the same ody. I own 2 ody from 02.... with this post was for the silver ody and yes thats the fuse right under driver side. I was more concerned about the one inthe engine 120 batt. But it was good. I also saw the post about unlocking when batt goes dead which i knew that when i broke down in the middle of the main road 2ith cars stopping short.

But thank you and all the other guys with the input

Maybe you can answer this or send me a link. One of the odyssey gives me me problems opening back door lock. I have to press the unlock on keypad a few times or someone has to be inthe front pressing at the same time so i can get door open. How do i fix that? The other ody press it once n its open
 
#16 ·
dtrixny said:
ok after 2 alternators, chasing wires, chaging altinator....testing stuff.. it came out to be fuse had blown out also and it was the one no1 thought about..the cruse control fuse was broken and that was the fix to my problem. I never thought it would be there, since i wasnt looking for it.. after that it started charging... clear out the check engine code and its been good...


both Odys are now fix, its funny how both went down at the same time..

thank you all for your input and tips... by the way the fuse was under the steering wheel
Click to expand...
Having the same issue here,changed alternator, charged battery, but mine is a 2006, can't find that " CRUISE CONTROL" fuse anywhere, is that under the steering wheel physically or inside a box ?
 
#17 ·
www.odyclub.com

Cruise Control Fuse?

Can anyone tell me which fuse controls the cruise control on a 2007 EX-L. My main cruise indicator light comes on when I turn the cruise on, but then I am not able to set the cruise. If it is not the fuse, could it be a faulty switch? Thank you in advance for any help.
www.odyclub.com www.odyclub.com
Check out Post #2.
Basically fuses 7 and 18 in the Primary Under Hood Fuse box.
Also, 7 and 18 and 21 in the under dash Driver's side.
Anyways, check out that post in the link above.
Buffalo4
 
#19 ·
joshyblik7 said:
Small tab near the gear stick, prise out and put a blunt instrument in or screwdriver, push down and the gear stick is free.
Click to expand...
Last post was over two years ago. Having alternator difficulties, @joshyblik7 ?

OF
 
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