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@lindros2
Working with a DC battery is fairly harmless, unless you are in contact between the postive and negative of battery while the battery is supplying a large current load to let's say a starter motor or you short out a wrench between the positive and negative post and again your bare body parts are in contact with the positive and negative post. This is for you people who think touching both battery post at the same time if safe, you are right, but with the exception of this is when their is a load on the battery and you disrupt that load the current will go through you. Any one that welds in DC will tell you not to get got between the positive and negative leads while welding or you will become the load. I had it happen to me welding on the bottom side of a car while welding and my shoulder was touching the car frame and was wwet and when I pulled the positive (stick lead) away from the frame and got zapped fairly good. The handle on the rod grip was cracked and it also got wet and wehent from my hand to my shoulder.
 
Other than the leak/battery loss post/thread, has anyone else done this?
We're on our 3rd battery in a 2019 Elite. The (2nd) battery we got two years ago was "completely toasted" (dead). Good news is that the alternator is still putting out 14.4V.

AAA came and replaced it in our driveway - it was $322, for anyone tracking this.

The first sign of battery degradation was that our passenger side sliding door would stop halfway through. This happened 3-4x in the past three weeks.
Mine is a 2019 Elite bought in Sep 2018 but battery had to be replaced under factory warranty in June 2019 as it suddenly died. Since Nov 2022 it started having issues with startup if any of the interior lights were on just few minutes after parking the vehicle. Dealer quoted $350 and had no appointments for 2 days. Called AAA, technician showed up to give jump start but didn't had this AGM model in stock because of inventory shortage. I asked him if he would install it for me if I get a battery from Costco. He shoed up at the end of the day off duty and installed it for 20 bucks. In total with core refund it costed me $225.
 
My 4.5y old '19 Elite is over 110K miles and still on original battery. At times I sense the hesitation, but also the winter here in NJ is not that crazy yet. I suspect that I will be changing it in about a year.

BTW, my Ridgeline will be 13 years in three months and is still on the chassis original starter and alternator, though I have gone through numerous batteries. As long as you keep things well maintained, these things run for quite some time.
 
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Discussion starter · #24 ·
Mine is a 2019 Elite bought in Sep 2018 but battery had to be replaced under factory warranty in June 2019 as it suddenly died. Since Nov 2022 it started having issues with startup if any of the interior lights were on just few minutes after parking the vehicle. Dealer quoted $350 and had no appointments for 2 days. Called AAA, technician showed up to give jump start but didn't had this AGM model in stock because of inventory shortage. I asked him if he would install it for me if I get a battery from Costco. He shoed up at the end of the day off duty and installed it for 20 bucks. In total with core refund it costed me $225.
wow - we did AAA and it was $325... no core refund.
 
Our battery started going out at around 35k miles. My wife complained that the sliding doors weren't shutting all the way, and this was my first sign that it could be the battery. I took it to Honda, and when they tried to start it in the service drive, it wouldn't, so it was good timing. Honda replaced the battery at no cost. I should also mention that I was Honda Service Manager for about five years (2008-2013), and batteries are unpredictable. I've seen batteries fail off of the delivery truck, and I've seen them last in vehicles for years longer than they should. Sometimes it's just a lousy battery 🤷‍♂️
 
@FamilyOdyssey2019
I will agree, some batteries will fail being new. However It seems like this GEN5 ODY battery tester they have is lousy. I would say they need to forget it and buy a quality battery tester that put's a minimum load of 200 amps for 3 minutes to test the battery capabilities. This quick test with discharge (small current) with capacitance/voltage/time does not work effectively for testing, and by the amount of customer complaints of the ODY not starting just proves the point. But the biggest problem of the battery is it's charging system, and right form Honda's own literature it says;

"Battery Management System
The Battery Management System (BMS) is designed to increase the overall service life of the battery, reduce the chance of a dead battery and help improve fuel efficiency. Should the owner accidentally leave the headlights on or fail to fully close a door causing an interior light to remain on, the BMS will automatically terminate power delivery after a set period to prevent the battery from being drained of power. Because of the discharge protection afforded by the BMS, the battery should always have enough reserve capacity left to start the engine.
The Odyssey engine makes use of a powerful 150-amp alternator that charges in a range between 12 and 14 volts. By controlling the alternator charge voltage range, BMS works to keep the battery in a specific charge range, which can extend the service life of the battery by more than 25 percent. With BMS keeping the battery in a specific charge range, the alternator can run more often in the low range, which generates less drag on the engine resulting in improved fuel efficiency. Application of numerous electrical power reducing items (such as the use of efficient LED lighting and a highly efficient FET-based electrical power delivery system) allows the BMS to operate the alternator even more frequently in the more efficient low charge mode."

Now whomever in engineering with that statement and what the GEN5 BMS is actually performing by, needs to be fired and they redesign the battery charging system so that it gets fully charged on short trip runs. I would not be proud of this system and for being a mechanic close to 35 years at various dealers have never run into such a terrible charging system. The heck with the gas mileage, charge the battery!
 
Our battery started going out at around 35k miles. My wife complained that the sliding doors weren't shutting all the way, and this was my first sign that it could be the battery. I took it to Honda, and when they tried to start it in the service drive, it wouldn't, so it was good timing. Honda replaced the battery at no cost. I should also mention that I was Honda Service Manager for about five years (2008-2013), and batteries are unpredictable. I've seen batteries fail off of the delivery truck, and I've seen them last in vehicles for years longer than they should. Sometimes it's just a lousy battery 🤷‍♂️
When the doors don’t close all the way is that with the van running or off?
 
2020 Odyssey with 56000 miles and it appears I'll be putting in my 3rd battery today. We have had nothing but problems with the electrical system since it was new. In particular the radio and dash not working properly. Honda replaced the radio to no avail and could not figure out what was wrong while under warranty. When I replaced the battery last fall with another Honda battery, outside of warranty of course by 3000 miles, all those gremlins went away. Honda said too bad, not covering battery. Last night, out of the blue, the battery is dead again. We never liked this van. 2010 Odyssey was a far better van all the way around in quality and performance. This will be my last Honda.
 
2020 Odyssey with 56000 miles and it appears I'll be putting in my 3rd battery today. We have had nothing but problems with the electrical system since it was new. In particular the radio and dash not working properly. Honda replaced the radio to no avail and could not figure out what was wrong while under warranty. When I replaced the battery last fall with another Honda battery, outside of warranty of course by 3000 miles, all those gremlins went away. Honda said too bad, not covering battery. Last night, out of the blue, the battery is dead again. We never liked this van. 2010 Odyssey was a far better van all the way around in quality and performance. This will be my last Honda.
Honda batteries suck. That was mistake #1.

Also, if you only drive a couple miles a day, that’s hard on the battery as well.
 
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So, now I'm in the warranty period. What mfg. battery should I buy and is an AGM battery still the way to go?

Nope, it gets plenty of longer trips of 10 miles or more regularly.
If you have a Sam’s club or Costco, whatever they have in stock. If neither one is close, get a good one from Walmart.
 
@3firehouse
Myself, I use the Optima Yellow Top. They cost more than the other batteries, but but in my years of working for the FAA, we used them on our standby-generators for radar sites, Air Traffic Control Towers, Tracons. Never had one fail. Others like @tyman use the Interstate battery from Costco (I do not know if Sam's club has them as I am not a member there, but @tyman says they have them.)
Do not know what ODY you have... The Touring and Elite definitely have them, the other models depends if you have the Automated Idle Stop Feature (AIS). Those that have them require the AGM battery, those that don't have this feature can use a plain LRA battery. I do not know if you are using the AIS or not but it is a waste of time and material. The manufacturers claim it is to save the environment and fuel. In cold reality all it does it wear the battery down and makes you change it out way sooner as well. Also the starter life is greatly reduced. It has also caused people at intersections that have been stopped with engine off (AIS), to not be able to start the car automatically by the AIS or manually if that failed due to the battery being in a low charge.

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Whatever brand you choose, get an AGM battery in the required size group. Unless the EX, etc do NOT have the auto start/stop function these vans need an AGM battery. Do Honda branded batteries suck? yes! I used to be a diehard fan until sears folded and I am not sure who makes them now (Deka, Penn, whoever). I have used Costco for my recent battery purchases and plan on doing so when the next battery decides to sh*t the bed. AAA is an option, but I like to make sure my stuff is put in right given I am seemingly more comfortable doing this than some others. Changing a battery isn't tough, just be cognizant of the terminals and what you're doing with metal tools. I have seen what happens when an errant wrench completes that circuit. It's impressive.

Get a good jumper pack (Noco, Hulkman) from amazon and keep it inside your glove compartment or be prepared to climb over the back seats to get it when the rear hatch doesn't work. And get a small flat heat screwdriver to help remove trim pieces for the air intake assembly thing that sits on top of the battery. It will help you get to both terminals MUCH easier.
 
2019 Odyssey Elite here. 80k on the odometer. Had to have the original battery replaced last year just before Christmas. Replaced it with an O'Reilly's battery since that was the only place that had one in stock in the town we were in at the time. That battery died on us right before Halloween. Couldn't jump the van at the time because of the silly neutral lockout on the side of the 10 speed transmission and couldn't get rolled out of the garage to jump it. So I bit the bullet and got a new battery, this time from Autozone. Now last weekend 8 warning messages popped up on the screen, mostly dealing with driver assist items, with one being Charging System problem. I knew it was on short time. It was driving fine though even with all the warnings. But now it's not starting. And it won't jump start. So having it towed to the dealer today. On top of that, the bolt that holds the battery cable on the battery terminal snapped off when I was tightening it this morning.
 
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