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Pulling fuses or a conventional parasitic draw test is time consuming and frustrating on these vehicles loaded with electronics. A much faster initial diagnostic is measuring the voltage drop across the fuses while they are intact installed in their slot. After the vehicle has gone to sleep (90-180 seconds) after off, closed, locked, armed, check the voltage drop across each fuse while it is installed, this method doesn't wake up or disturb the electonics causing another waiting period.
good point, thats why fuses have those little holes/openings on the edge, to put a probe.
 
About 3 years average with everstart maxx. Ive now switched to their platinum agm. Cheapest agm around seems pretty solid.
Remember that any FLA battery drained to below about 6 volts, will lose about half its life expectancy and reserve capacity.
Even more if its left there for a significant time.
Whenever you buy a battery, bring a meter. Its resting voltage is as important as that date code. Ive measured as low as 11.0 volts, you dont want that battery.
 
Two issues, a parasitic drain and a bad battery... solve one issue first then move on to the other.
These gen 4's are battery killers.

Also, the battery debate got conflated into who has the better battery, when the statement was who has the best no hassle replacement warranty.
it's still Costco...

Walmart hooks up your return battery to their networked tester. Last year with about 2 months left on the warranty my 07 repeatedly wouldnt start. Took it to 2 walmarts, after driving it to a full charge. Both times they denied my return saying it tested good. As expected a week after the warranty ended it REALLY wouldnt start the car. So I bought a platinum.
I assume that the machine pro rates the battery pass fail status.
If its near warranty end, what qualifies as good would not when its new.
This is not limited to walmart. About 25 years ago optima was pulling that ****. Oh it tests good... Goodbye, see ya. In the morning it doesnt start.
Oreillys the same.
 
2011 Touring elite with 275K miles on it.

I am about to take the Everstart Maxx 24F Walmart battery in for exchange just shy of two years since I exchanged the previous Everstart Maxx 24F at Walmart at 3 years 3 months of age and paid the $72 prorated charge since it was just past the 3 year free replacement. This battery has been going down to under 12 volts overnight for the last week or two, and I could charge it enough to start the Ody, but today before charging I put my battery tester on it and the tester meter showed 12 volts initially but adding the tester load dropped it to 8 volts.

I set my VOM on the DC 10 amp scale and checked between the positive post and the disconnected positive cable and the VOM first showed 2.5 amps then 1.6 amps and then 0.24 amps, taking 3 to 4 seconds between the AMP changes. The DC volt scale the VOM then showed 11.97 volts across the battery terminals. What should the battery drain be in a normal Ody system? I am guessing it should be much less than 0.24 amps.

A little history: The Ody has taken some time to start charging on cold starts for quite awhile now, but once it starts charging it holds at 13.6 to 14 volts all day until the next cold start. Then the "Check Charging System" messaqe might come up a couple of times before it settles down to its normal charging voltage (which I monitor on an UltraGauge).

So...Is my Ody eating batteries because of a high battery drain when turned off? Or did I get another bad battery that has failed in 2 years time?


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Your problem sounds like parasitic drain as mentioned by another member. Most threads speak of approximately 0. 05 amps or less amperage drain to keep the computer running and no more. Pull number seven backup fuse on the driver side fuse box and check the drain. This disables door locks electric doors Etc which are normally the problem according to others. Some people remove and clean locking mechanisms others replace them. If not, pull fuses one at a time and check drain. No fun
 
its permanently integrated under the hood on top of the battery, just an ac plug hanging outside to plug an extension to
I love those NOCO underhood maintainers. Have one on my older truck that remains plugged in 24/7 when parked, and one on my VW TDI. So much easier to use on a regular basis versus popping the hood. Then I have other types that maintain my tractor, etc. batteries that get removed every fall. My batteries tend to last a long time.

Moving on... I'd get the alternator checked, preferably at a supply house but if not available at NAPA or even take it into the dealer. Someplace where a stereotypical high school kid isn't the one operating the equipment. An alternator with poor-quality output can damage a battery.

When my wife's Ody battery died I checked around and the Honda battery was a great price considering the longer warranty; similar story with VW though I haven't had to purchase one, just thought I was going to need one so price checked. While it's true that neither car manufacturer makes batteries, they do buy in sufficient bulk that they can get both a good price AND have their own specs.

While it shouldn't be a concern in a soft riding minivan, it's been my experience that the higher the Cranking Amps for the same size battery, the less robust they tend to be, mechanically. In reading on this subject over the years it's become my understanding that it's a trade-off of one to get better in the other, which makes sense.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
Your problem sounds like parasitic drain as mentioned by another member. Most threads speak of approximately 0. 05 amps or less amperage drain to keep the computer running and no more. Pull number seven backup fuse on the driver side fuse box and check the drain. This disables door locks electric doors Etc which are normally the problem according to others. Some people remove and clean locking mechanisms others replace them. If not, pull fuses one at a time and check drain. No fun
I did pull all the fuses in the driver side box with no change in the .046 to .047 amp drain. I see in this you tube video that #7 is fuses 1 through 5 in the "passenger compartment fuse box". would that be the fuse box on the passenger side? Or is that 1 through 7 on the driver side? Also didn't understand the term "backup fuse". Educate me.
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In any case I pulled every fuse in the driver side and the passenger side fuse boxes in the cabin plus all under the hood and only #16 in the big box under the hood which is listed as "backup" made any change to the drain, dropping it to .020 amps when removed.

However I now have one more problem and that is no operation of the left side rear door. I checked fuse # 9 in the driver side fuse panel and it is good, but no left rear door operation from the outside handle, button on the dash, button on the fob, or inside handle. There was no fuse in the #8 slot. Help! is there another fuse for the left rear door?

And to follow up on battery replacement, I could not get the battery cover to sit down properly on the new Everstart Maxx, even with the top handle removed, because the case is 10-1/8" wide plus the extensions for the handle on each side, so My wife's 2010 Ody got the new battery and I put her July 2019 Durastart 24F-7 in the 2011.
 
However I now have one more problem and that is no operation of the left side rear door. I checked fuse # 9 in the driver side fuse panel and it is good, but no left rear door operation from the outside handle, button on the dash, button on the fob, or inside handle. There was no fuse in the #8 slot. Help! is there another fuse for the left rear door?
If you pulled the fuse for the doors, you may need to rehome the system by opening and closing it once manually.
 
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Discussion starter · #48 ·
If you pulled the fuse for the doors, you may need to rehome the system by opening and closing it once manually.
Thanks for the tip. I had removed the 40 amp square fuse #33 identified in the manual as “Driver’s Side Power Slide Door Motor” when I was checking fuses in the cabin on the driver side, and apparently this caused the door to lose orientation. I had already pried the driver side door open manually so I closed it manually and then it worked again.

I looked in the owner's manual for a similar 40 amp fuse for the passenger side rear door motor because it was still working, and I finally discovered the passenger side door motor has its fuse on one of those long combination fuses stacks in the under hood fuse box that I did not remove. I also discovered in the manual that there is a fuse panel in the rear that I did not check, but I think I am done pulling fuses for awhile so I don't screw something else up.

Thanks again for all the comments and help, Guys. I had been putting my 15 amp charger on the old Maxx battery every so often to recharge it when I was not driving the Ody regularly, and I had left a Stanley version of the 1.5 amp charger/maintainer mentioned above on it, but I later found the little Stanley with a red light on it and the battery down to 11 volts again. Perhaps it was too far gone at that pont for the small charger to maintain. I'll try the little Stanley on this Durastart and see if it will maintain a still good battery.
 
have seen many sulfated batteries revived at the shop with a few short interval burst charges for 5-10 mins with a 200amp charge.

it needs to be batteries with serviceable / removable top caps, so you can refill with distilled water.

places that sell used batteries, this is often all they do to bring a battery back.

associated equipment sells some good chargers for this purpose.
of course for the average folk, one of these are not practical.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
have seen many sulfated batteries revived at the shop with a few short interval burst charges for 5-10 mins with a 200amp charge.

it needs to be batteries with serviceable / removable top caps, so you can refill with distilled water.

places that sell used batteries, this is often all they do to bring a battery back.

associated equipment sells some good chargers for this purpose.
of course for the average folk, one of these are not practical.
I have a big charger on wheels that will go into sulfate mode if the battery is too low, but I have had it boil a battery dry spilling acid all over my garage floor, so I do not let a battery stay connected if it goes into sulfate mode. I will put that battery on a "dumb" charger to get it up to where the wheeled charger can charge it normally. I do not trust it after it fried a relatively good battery.
 
I have a big charger on wheels that will go into sulfate mode if the battery is too low, but I have had it boil a battery dry spilling acid all over my garage floor, so I do not let a battery stay connected if it goes into sulfate mode. I will put that battery on a "dumb" charger to get it up to where the wheeled charger can charge it normally. I do not trust it after it fried a relatively good battery.
The trick is 5-15 mins until you see a good rolling boil in each cell, then rest for an hour, top up the fluid, then repeat a few more times.

if there is no bulbling activity in one of the cells, the battery is toast.

lubetube has a bunch of videos on it, some guys even use arc welders !
 
I forgot how different they were, battery wise. I guess Walmart is only good in the 2nd Gen and earlier. :)
Buffalo4
AGAIN, you don't own a gen 4, the charge discharge rates on these vehicles is more extreme than a gen 2 and test batteries to their limit.

on my previous gen 2, batteries would last 5-6 years and it didn't matter what brand or chemistry, even up here in the colder north.
 
Neverstart...

if you have or know somebody with a costco membership, recommend you buy your next one there.
two prorated warranty replacements equals 1 costco 5 year full replacement warranty at no charge.

I have bought 1 costco battery, and replaced it 3 times for the price of 1, and this battery is under 4 more years of full replacement warranty!
That is an awesome warranty, sir. I have for years gotten my batteries at the local Advance Auto and have, on occasion, made use of the warranty but they will warranty only from the original purchase date. But my question; if you’ve had to replace so many batteries under one warranty what’s the life of each one? The additional warranty time sounds like I might need to go to Costco next time!
 
That is an awesome warranty, sir. I have for years gotten my batteries at the local Advance Auto and have, on occasion, made use of the warranty but they will warranty only from the original purchase date. But my question; if you’ve had to replace so many batteries under one warranty what’s the life of each one? The additional warranty time sounds like I might need to go to Costco next time!
In all my cases, Costco just refunds the old battery...
walk in the store, buy a new one.
warranty starts over.
 
In an early post, OP says it is 240 mA, and lately is reporting 46 mA. That is a huge difference. Nothing at all wrong with 46 mA. 240 mA is a little high, but a good battery should easily handle that overnight.
.2 is 200 milli amps Very very high. Police cars that I work on have .100 most of the time and will be dead in 5-7 days if a captain leaves his car home over vacation
 
have seen many sulfated batteries revived at the shop with a few short interval burst charges for 5-10 mins with a 200amp charge.

it needs to be batteries with serviceable / removable top caps, so you can refill with distilled water.

places that sell used batteries, this is often all they do to bring a battery back.

associated equipment sells some good chargers for this purpose.
of course for the average folk, one of these are not practical.
Isnt another way to put it on a trickle charger for about a month?
 
Isnt another way to put it on a trickle charger for about a month?
No...

The 200 amps boils the battery and desulfates it in short order, some of the better trickle chargers have pulse desulfators built in, but I have seen very little luck bringing back a battery from the dead with one of those.
 
No...

The 200 amps boils the battery and desulfates it in short order, some of the better trickle chargers have pulse desulfators built in, but I have seen very little luck bringing back a battery from the dead with one of those.
200 milliamps.
Buffalo4
PS: Just questioning your answer to the POST you are shown as replying to.
 
No, its 200 amps... needs to be done outside or with the garage door open.
connect/disconnect all your terminals BEFORE adding power, or boom ya go.
this is cooking with gas.

youtube it... desulfate battery with welder.

DIY folks use stick welders because they are cheap and variable control.

The safer method is an associated equipment charger, and use the 80+ amp boost mode to boil/overcharge that battery.

$1500 bux for one of those babies.
 
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