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Newbie AC condenser replacement questions - Desiccant

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mitchd123

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
My first condenser on a Honda...sorry for some silly newbie questions.

1) I'm about to order a Kool Vue A/C Condenser off ebay. I'm assuming this will NOT have the desiccant pre-installed and I need to buy it separately. Is this a fair assumption?


2) I'm also assuming the desiccant will come in some type of plastic sealed bag. I just take it out of the sealed bag, install it, and keep the system closed while installing the condenser? Anything else special that needs to be done with the desiccant? Then after the condenser is installed, I'll pull vacuum, wait to see if it leaks, and assuming it maintains vacuum, then add the recommended amount of R134.
 
#2 ·
Dessicant is typically in the drier. They must install it in the drier before welding the canister closed. It is extremely uncommon these days for the dessicant to be replaceable other than by replacing the drier. Thus, the need to replace the drier when it's open for service.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your reply, but that's what has me confused. I did my wife's Pontiac Montana this spring...just bought a new drier, bolted it on, etc. Very familiar territory.

On the Odyssey my understanding is the drier is in the condenser, and can't be purchased separately. In looking at great DIY compressor thread it says in step 6 the drier is located on the driver side of the condenser and there is a metal frame blocking the cap. You have to remove the condenser from the car to replace the desiccant bag. So I'm curious if a new condenser comes with the required desiccant bag, or if the desiccant bag needs to be purchased separately.
 
#6 ·
Yes, ask the seller. I've got the dessicant package for a condensor relacement that never happened. Cannot remember if it fits on the driver's side or passenger side of the condensor. :( It uses a pretty substantial socket head nut (bolt?) IIRC with an O-ring to secure it and its filter into that side-tube. I'm looking at changing my just-starting-to-squeal compressor, so I just may do it all.

OF
 
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#7 ·
In other cars (e.g. Volvo etc.), the desiccant bag is inside the drier/receiver metal container.

On the 2nd and 3rd Gen Ody, the desiccant bag sits on on the driver's side of the condenser.
When you buy Honda OEM condenser (PN 80100-S0X-305, about $260), you get the desiccant bag as part of the deal.
When you buy aftermarket condenser, you may or may not get the desiccant bag.

Local autoparts store sells the desiccant bag for $10.
Autozone carries Santech MT2194. Use the desiccant bag, but use the O-ring from Honda:
A/C Receiver Drier | 2001 Honda Odyssey 6 Cylinders 3.5L MFI SOHC VTEC | AutoZone.com

I don't know about Kool Vue, but aftermarket is a toss-up.
Denso is the OEM. For 199-2004 Ody ---> PN is Denso 477-0519, about $130 on amazon. When buy buy Denso, you buy Honda OEM condenser. Just buy this Denso condenser, once you receive it, check if the desiccant bag is there or not. If not, buy from local autoparts store.

You already listed the link for 2007 Ody AC Compressor> I did this a few weeks ago, AC ice cold so far:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-20...-2005-2010-odyssey/173122-diy-2007-honda-odyssey-ac-compressor-replacement.html

PS: Whatever you do, only use the O-rings from dealer.
 
#8 ·
On the installation note. Desiccant bag goes in only when you are ready to install the condenser.
Wet the O-ring with a bit of PAG-46 oil.
Cap both ends of the condenser until you are ready to hook the lines.
Don't do this job on a rainy day! Moisture is bad for AC system!
 
#9 ·
0dyfamily said:
Yes, ask the seller. I've got the dessicant package for a condensor relacement that never happened. Cannot remember if it fits on the driver's side or passenger side of the condensor. :( It uses a pretty substantial socket head nut (bolt?) IIRC with an O-ring to secure it and its filter into that side-tube. I'm looking at changing my just-starting-to-squeal compressor, so I just may do it all.
OF
Click to expand...
How old is your accessory belt? Mine would squeal/squeak every time the compressor clutch would engauge. I had someone change the timing belt since I thought I could do more harm than good and while they were at it they put on a new accessory belt. With the new belt the squeal is gone. Apparently what is happening is the belt stretches over time and the tensioner cannot maintain the proper tension allowing the belt to slip on the compressor pulley causing the squeal.
 
#10 ·
Hmmmm, blake, I cannot find anything in my 2003's owner's manual, and I'm pretty good at recording that stuff in the pages provided. I ended up changing four of these (IIRC)on my wife's 2002 EX over the course of a few years due to several causes: one from a three-car accident cracking the alternator pivot bolt, one from mis-torquing the pivot bolt during a new alternator top bracket installation, one from a defective alternator pivot bolt, and one from a defective alternator top bracket!...I probably assumed in the course of buying acc belts over those few years that I'd done the belt replacement job as well on my 2003, and I probably just forgot about my own Odyssey and never did ACC or PS belt service for the poor old gal.

I'll bet you're right. I'm going to get a replacement ACC belt today, and PS belt, too. I've done everything else service-wise in the manual, but missed that one!

OF
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
Thanks. SailorBenjamin, I'm in the same boat as you. Last night I opened the new condensor, and mine had it installed as well. I too now have an extra.

Worth mentioning for anyone who stumbles on this thread, there's also a small filter in this compartment. If you're servicing the system it may be worthwhile to look at this compartment if you are installing a used condensor. With the price of new condensors, I'm not sure why anyone would look at a used one...go new.
 
#13 ·
blake said:
How old is your accessory belt? Mine would squeal/squeak every time the compressor clutch would engauge. ***snip***Apparently what is happening is the belt stretches over time and the tensioner cannot maintain the proper tension allowing the belt to slip on the compressor pulley causing the squeal.
Click to expand...
You are right again, blake. It was the belt. With all the work I've done on this van, don't know how I missed it. Installed belt that should have been installed a couple years ago, and squeal is gone.

OF
 
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#14 ·
When and where does oil get added to any new component or original flushed component? For example, compressor was replaced by Honda independent mechanic but he doesn't want to deal with rest of system due to labor involved to locate and flush system due to remaining blockage (6 hours labor supposedly). Condenser will be new and front/rear evaps will be removed and flushed along with lines. Helms mentions amount of oil to add if replacing any of the parts. Is oil applied to individual items upon reassembly or are the individual oil volumes summed up and added to the system after everything is all buttoned up? Meaning, is it sufficient after vacuum before charge? Does the oil disperse once charged or should oil already reside in individual components prior to charge?

Thanks.
 
#15 · (Edited)
hondageek, the compressor has a specified charge of oil put into it by Denso. The tech actually has to drain some of it before installation. Here's a bit I copied from page 21-6 of the Helm manual (click on the thumbnail). Yes, you add it all up. The system holds a fairly significant quantity of PAG-46 (Denso ND-8) oil:

OF
 
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#16 ·
So, is it safe to say I don't need to add oil to the individual components being flushed or replaced (Condenser, 2xEvaporators) and assume compressor contains all oil capacity at this time since it won't be replaced or removed during my process?
 
#17 ·
Sorry I did not get back to you sooner. After reading this, I think you'd do the following for a simple compressor replacement:

1.) Drain old compressor, record volume drained (say this is Xml, as in X milliliters)
2.) 210ml - Xml = amount of oil you will drain from new compressor before installing it.

Check my math on all of this. Since you are also flushing/replacing the condenser and both evaporators, that is 35ml + 40ml + 40ml = 115ml. Best I can tell, this yields the following:

115ml - (210ml - Xml) = Yml. If "Y" is a positive value, this is the amount you must add to the system after replacing the compressor and flushing/replacing the condenser and both evaporators. If "Y" is a negative value, that is the total that must be drained from the new compressor (no more than this) to guarantee sufficient oil is still remaining in the system.

OF
 
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#18 ·
The above calculation is true only if the new compressor comes with the correct amount of oil for the entire system (as in the case of assembly line).

In my situation, the new AC compressor did NOT come with the correct amount of oil.
I posted detail on how to add oil in the AC Compressor DIY thread.
 
#19 ·
NEVER trust either the oil type or quantity that ships with a new compressor. Same compressors are used on different vehicles, so no way for the manufacturer to load it properly to cover all of them. Best to dump out whatever is shipped with it, and fill to a known type and quantity.
 
#20 ·
Do you two mean the following is a better method:

1.) Drain new compressor 100% completely by rotating input shaft.
2.) Add 4oz. PAG-46.
3.) Add amounts for servicing the condenser & evaporators.
4.) Re-assemble, pull down vacuum, service refrigerant.

OF
 
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