A/C stopped working some weeks ago, wife put up with it until now. A visible check shows that the compressor isn't spinning. I checked the pressure and got ~30 psi on the low side and about the same on the high side if I recall (didn't commit high side press. to memory). I just checked the clutch relay and the coil resistance was 145 ohms. I checked that there was voltage on one of the relay socket pins. Put a jumper across that open contact and nothing happened; I heard to clutch pulling in. Got under the car but didn't jack it up and looked/felt on the top side of the compressor. Found the clutch wire and see that it goes to a plug/recept. near the fan. I doubt that there is a problem with the connector but I'll check it. If it's not the connector I suspect the clutch is bad. I can turn the compressor by hand with not too much torque; the resistance is consistent and it turns 'kinda' smooth. Are there any other tests that can be done? I've read many posts and see that some owners have replaced the clutch and some replaced bearings too. However if it's truly failed I guess I'll just replace the compressor complete. I'm on a tight budget so I can't afford to pay >$1000 for the dealer or indy to fix it.
05 Compressor clutch troubleshooting
chumbie
101 - 120 of 398 Posts
2007 Honda Odyssey LX AC Stator/Clutch DIY the “Ghetto way”!
Brief story:
- Aug 2010: AC Stator failure at 3yr/37K miles (good will repair total was $600, I paid $300).
- May 2011: AC Stator failure again at 4yr/45K miles (free fix under the 12m warranty!).
- June 2012: AC Stator failure. This time I decided to do it myself.
I was on vacation in Montreal Canada, when the AC Stator failed again for the 3rd time in the last 2 years! It must be some sort of mfg defect. Once the Stator is removed, the Resistance is 0 Ohms (Open Circuit). New Stator has a resistance of 5 Ohms.
As posted by ”geobrick” and others above, the defective Stator physically looked good, no sign of heat damage. The winding inside simply broke, creating an open circuit. Maybe the winding material is subpar, just a theory as to the root cause of this whole thing.
I was at my sister home when the AC quit. I had no jack stand or any fancy tools, so I decided to do a “ghetto fix” using what I have available and it worked w/o removing the AC Compressor! Thanks to “geobrick” and “Dirkdaddy” as the pioneers of doing the Stator replacement w/o removing the AC Compressor.
I ordered the AC Stator (PN 38924-RGL-A01) from local dealer: Canadian $100 + tax = $118 total. Canadian part price is always higher than the US, so I was the mercy of local dealer. The same Stator is $65 + tax in the US. Anyway, I had no choice so I spent Canadian $118. Oh well, Quebec…."La belle province" is a nice place to visit anyhow.
As a basic minimum, you will need the following items:
- New AC Stator (since my AC Clutch is only 1 yr/10K old, I re-used it).
- 10-mm socket
- If you don’t have the serpentine belt tool, then use 14mm/15mm closed-offset combo wrench + 1/2” ratchet
- Feeler gauge
- Snap Ring Pliers (read on for tricks to open it wider!)
- Thread Locker: not sure if this is necessary but saw somewhere on youtube that says use it on the 10-mm center bolt!
- Mirror
- Something to drive the RF tire up (remember that I have no jack stand) for better ground clearance; in my case, I used a square rock I found nearby.
![]()
---------
PROCEDURE:
1. My engine cover is marked (using a pointed screw driver) with engine cylinder numbering system (1-6) and belt routing diagram. This way I can re-install a belt w/o looking up the routing diagram.
![]()
2. Since I have no jack stand, I used the biggest solid rock (about 6” tall) I found nearby. Boy, this rock weighed some 100 lb! And with few bricks were used as “stairs” and the RF tire is on top of it. A friend helped me guide the RF tire up the rock. Turn the wheel all the way to the Right. Apply Parking Brake. Chock the Rear wheels with bricks.
I used a helmet as my “pillow” while laying down. The helmet helped support my “coconut”. You can lay on a cardboard or towel.
![]()
3. Checked R134a pressure: good. So the problem must be in the electrical department.
4. You can open the hood all the way up by placing the van rod way further back (the hood has 2 places you can insert the rod), but the rod is in the way. I used a 4-foot long piece of wood as shown, this way the rod is not in the way!
![]()
![]()
5. Note the Fuse Box has 3 relays: AC Stator/Clutch system; Aux Fan Low Speed and High Speed. See photo. I carry a spare relay in the glove box, as a quick test, I swapped the AC Stator relay with the good relay while the engine ran and AC button “On”: the AC Clutch did not engage. So 99.9999% sure it is another bad Stator! So if you don’t already have a relay, get one from the dealer for $5 and carry it in the glovebox as spare and as a diagnostic tool!
![]()
6. To remove serpentine belt:
- Remove engine plastic cover (turn the 2 knobs CCW, then lift the rear of the plastic cover upward).
- Use the 14mm/15mm wrench and 1/2” ratchet as shown. The 1/2" square fits nicely in the 15-mm wrench. Sure you can use the belt tool but I did not have the belt tool.
- Place the 14-mm wrench on the Upper Pulley (this is the adjusting pulley) and push the wrench toward the firewall to loosen the belt. Whatever you do, make sure the ratchet fits properly in the 15-mm wrench before applying tension on this setup!
- During belt re-installation, route the belt through all pulleys except the adjusting pulley, then once you apply tension on the adjusting pulley, slide the belt onto the adjusting pulley.
![]()
7. To allow better exposure, unclip the wiring loom, then tie it and the AC hose out of the way as shown:
![]()
8. Measure the AC Clutch gap. This is the gap between the AC Clutch and the AC Pulley. In my case, it was more than 0.7 mm (done by dealer a year ago). After I finished the job, I adjusted it down to 0.40 mm.
![]()
Brief story:
- Aug 2010: AC Stator failure at 3yr/37K miles (good will repair total was $600, I paid $300).
- May 2011: AC Stator failure again at 4yr/45K miles (free fix under the 12m warranty!).
- June 2012: AC Stator failure. This time I decided to do it myself.
I was on vacation in Montreal Canada, when the AC Stator failed again for the 3rd time in the last 2 years! It must be some sort of mfg defect. Once the Stator is removed, the Resistance is 0 Ohms (Open Circuit). New Stator has a resistance of 5 Ohms.
As posted by ”geobrick” and others above, the defective Stator physically looked good, no sign of heat damage. The winding inside simply broke, creating an open circuit. Maybe the winding material is subpar, just a theory as to the root cause of this whole thing.
I was at my sister home when the AC quit. I had no jack stand or any fancy tools, so I decided to do a “ghetto fix” using what I have available and it worked w/o removing the AC Compressor! Thanks to “geobrick” and “Dirkdaddy” as the pioneers of doing the Stator replacement w/o removing the AC Compressor.
I ordered the AC Stator (PN 38924-RGL-A01) from local dealer: Canadian $100 + tax = $118 total. Canadian part price is always higher than the US, so I was the mercy of local dealer. The same Stator is $65 + tax in the US. Anyway, I had no choice so I spent Canadian $118. Oh well, Quebec…."La belle province" is a nice place to visit anyhow.
As a basic minimum, you will need the following items:
- New AC Stator (since my AC Clutch is only 1 yr/10K old, I re-used it).
- 10-mm socket
- If you don’t have the serpentine belt tool, then use 14mm/15mm closed-offset combo wrench + 1/2” ratchet
- Feeler gauge
- Snap Ring Pliers (read on for tricks to open it wider!)
- Thread Locker: not sure if this is necessary but saw somewhere on youtube that says use it on the 10-mm center bolt!
- Mirror
- Something to drive the RF tire up (remember that I have no jack stand) for better ground clearance; in my case, I used a square rock I found nearby.
---------
PROCEDURE:
1. My engine cover is marked (using a pointed screw driver) with engine cylinder numbering system (1-6) and belt routing diagram. This way I can re-install a belt w/o looking up the routing diagram.
2. Since I have no jack stand, I used the biggest solid rock (about 6” tall) I found nearby. Boy, this rock weighed some 100 lb! And with few bricks were used as “stairs” and the RF tire is on top of it. A friend helped me guide the RF tire up the rock. Turn the wheel all the way to the Right. Apply Parking Brake. Chock the Rear wheels with bricks.
I used a helmet as my “pillow” while laying down. The helmet helped support my “coconut”. You can lay on a cardboard or towel.
3. Checked R134a pressure: good. So the problem must be in the electrical department.
4. You can open the hood all the way up by placing the van rod way further back (the hood has 2 places you can insert the rod), but the rod is in the way. I used a 4-foot long piece of wood as shown, this way the rod is not in the way!
5. Note the Fuse Box has 3 relays: AC Stator/Clutch system; Aux Fan Low Speed and High Speed. See photo. I carry a spare relay in the glove box, as a quick test, I swapped the AC Stator relay with the good relay while the engine ran and AC button “On”: the AC Clutch did not engage. So 99.9999% sure it is another bad Stator! So if you don’t already have a relay, get one from the dealer for $5 and carry it in the glovebox as spare and as a diagnostic tool!
6. To remove serpentine belt:
- Remove engine plastic cover (turn the 2 knobs CCW, then lift the rear of the plastic cover upward).
- Use the 14mm/15mm wrench and 1/2” ratchet as shown. The 1/2" square fits nicely in the 15-mm wrench. Sure you can use the belt tool but I did not have the belt tool.
- Place the 14-mm wrench on the Upper Pulley (this is the adjusting pulley) and push the wrench toward the firewall to loosen the belt. Whatever you do, make sure the ratchet fits properly in the 15-mm wrench before applying tension on this setup!
- During belt re-installation, route the belt through all pulleys except the adjusting pulley, then once you apply tension on the adjusting pulley, slide the belt onto the adjusting pulley.
7. To allow better exposure, unclip the wiring loom, then tie it and the AC hose out of the way as shown:
8. Measure the AC Clutch gap. This is the gap between the AC Clutch and the AC Pulley. In my case, it was more than 0.7 mm (done by dealer a year ago). After I finished the job, I adjusted it down to 0.40 mm.
9. Since I did not have the AC Clutch Tool (to counter-hold the 10-mm bolt), I tried a generic belt wrapping around the AC Clutch: useless, not enough friction!
- If you have air wrench then use it. If not, use a small wrench as a counter- hold: simply place it so it rest against the van steel frame and one of the rivets on the AC Clutch (which has 4 rivets). It is a bit tricky but you will get a hang of it. This “ghetto” trick worked for me. For this part (10-mm bolt), I find it easier to do it from above.
![]()
![]()
10. The Snap Ring Pliers I bought locally only opened from 10 mm to 50 mm, not enough to open the circlip. But it is small so it fit well in the tight space. I wasted a lot of time during circlip removal and install, using screw drivers etc. I even tried using a socket as shown but the socket trick is useless, so don’t use it!
- Later on, I found a nice trick to open the snap ring wider: when setting up the snap ring pliers, install only one leg, leaving the other leg as shown, this will allow you to open the circlip wider for removal/install and it will make your life 1000 times easier!
- I found the 45-degree tip of the snap ring pliers to be the best!
![]()
11. From below, partially remove the wheel well plastic liner as shown. You likely will need some new fastener clips as these tend to break when you remove them (use a flat screw drive to pry the “center part” of the clip first, then slide the outer sleeve of the clip!). Just fold the plastic liner and wedge it against the tire. Just make sure it does not rub against the CV rubber boot.
- Once the 10-mm bolt is out, the AC Clutch will slide right off. During re-install, apply some grease in the splines to make future removal easier. Not sure if this is right but I used a bit of Loctite on the 10-mm bolt to avoid it from working loose later (saw this on a youtube video). FYI, factory had no Loctite on the 10-mm bolt.
- Once the circlip is out, the AC Pulley will come right off. During re-install, I used a bit of oil on the inner bearing race to make future removal easier.
- Once the larger circlip is out, the Stator slides right off. During re-install, there is only 1 way you can install the Stator (there is a notch). New stator comes with new wiring but I re-used the old wiring because it is only 5 years old and in good shape and because the ground screw is hidden underneath the alternator and cannot be removed unless you remove the Alternator!
- My defective Stator resistance is 0 Ohms, i.e., open circuit. New Stator = 5 Ohms.
- To disconnect the Stator electrical connector: squeeze the tab with one hand while removing the connector. A short flat screw driver can be used to gently pry the connector away.
12. INSTALL NOTES:
- The larger circlip (for the Stator) has a concave and a flat side, the concave side must face OUTWARD.
- Make absolutely sure (use a mirror if necessary) that the each circlip sits in its proper groove.
- Before starting engine, make sure all tools are removed and the belt is routed properly (use a flash light).
- Adjust AC Clutch gap by using appropriate shims. During gap adjustment, gently tighten the 10-mm bolt (do not tighten the bolt to spec until you like the gap). I adjusted mine to 0.40 mm. Once I was happy with the gap, I applied Loctite, then tightened the 10-mm bolt to spec using the “small-wrench counter-hold” trick as mentioned above.
![]()
Congrats for replacing the AC Stator with:
- AC Compressor in the car, therefore no need to remove and re-install R134a!
- The RF Wheel still in place. In fact, there is no need to remove the RF wheel as long as the RF tire sits on a ramp and turned all the way to the right side.
- If you have air wrench then use it. If not, use a small wrench as a counter- hold: simply place it so it rest against the van steel frame and one of the rivets on the AC Clutch (which has 4 rivets). It is a bit tricky but you will get a hang of it. This “ghetto” trick worked for me. For this part (10-mm bolt), I find it easier to do it from above.
10. The Snap Ring Pliers I bought locally only opened from 10 mm to 50 mm, not enough to open the circlip. But it is small so it fit well in the tight space. I wasted a lot of time during circlip removal and install, using screw drivers etc. I even tried using a socket as shown but the socket trick is useless, so don’t use it!
- Later on, I found a nice trick to open the snap ring wider: when setting up the snap ring pliers, install only one leg, leaving the other leg as shown, this will allow you to open the circlip wider for removal/install and it will make your life 1000 times easier!
- I found the 45-degree tip of the snap ring pliers to be the best!
11. From below, partially remove the wheel well plastic liner as shown. You likely will need some new fastener clips as these tend to break when you remove them (use a flat screw drive to pry the “center part” of the clip first, then slide the outer sleeve of the clip!). Just fold the plastic liner and wedge it against the tire. Just make sure it does not rub against the CV rubber boot.
- Once the 10-mm bolt is out, the AC Clutch will slide right off. During re-install, apply some grease in the splines to make future removal easier. Not sure if this is right but I used a bit of Loctite on the 10-mm bolt to avoid it from working loose later (saw this on a youtube video). FYI, factory had no Loctite on the 10-mm bolt.
- Once the circlip is out, the AC Pulley will come right off. During re-install, I used a bit of oil on the inner bearing race to make future removal easier.
- Once the larger circlip is out, the Stator slides right off. During re-install, there is only 1 way you can install the Stator (there is a notch). New stator comes with new wiring but I re-used the old wiring because it is only 5 years old and in good shape and because the ground screw is hidden underneath the alternator and cannot be removed unless you remove the Alternator!
- My defective Stator resistance is 0 Ohms, i.e., open circuit. New Stator = 5 Ohms.
- To disconnect the Stator electrical connector: squeeze the tab with one hand while removing the connector. A short flat screw driver can be used to gently pry the connector away.
12. INSTALL NOTES:
- The larger circlip (for the Stator) has a concave and a flat side, the concave side must face OUTWARD.
- Make absolutely sure (use a mirror if necessary) that the each circlip sits in its proper groove.
- Before starting engine, make sure all tools are removed and the belt is routed properly (use a flash light).
- Adjust AC Clutch gap by using appropriate shims. During gap adjustment, gently tighten the 10-mm bolt (do not tighten the bolt to spec until you like the gap). I adjusted mine to 0.40 mm. Once I was happy with the gap, I applied Loctite, then tightened the 10-mm bolt to spec using the “small-wrench counter-hold” trick as mentioned above.
Congrats for replacing the AC Stator with:
- AC Compressor in the car, therefore no need to remove and re-install R134a!
- The RF Wheel still in place. In fact, there is no need to remove the RF wheel as long as the RF tire sits on a ramp and turned all the way to the right side.
Thanks Cnn for the very useful info, though it comes a little too late for me......
I finished the stator replacement a few days back.
I worked on it for 2 days, 2.5 hours per day.
I would say, I spent a good 4 or even 4.5 of the total 5 hours on removing and installing the circlips! Such a pain... I was hoping getting them on would be easier but nope. There is simply not enough clearance to maneuver the hands and the tools.
The good news is A/C is now 100%!
The clutch and the bearing were in excellent shape, so I didn't replace them. The clutch gap was originally 0.65 mm. I used the exact same shims, so the gap is still 0.65 mm.
I put the vehicle on ramps with wheels turned fully right, and worked from the passenger wheel well. I leaned my head and upper back to the inside of the wheel, used an old crib matress to make it more comfortable and a portable light.
While there, I replaced the accessory belt, oil/oil filter, air filter and I did some small paint job on the front bumper while waiting for the new stator. (Paint job is not included in the 5 hours).
I finished the stator replacement a few days back.
I worked on it for 2 days, 2.5 hours per day.
I would say, I spent a good 4 or even 4.5 of the total 5 hours on removing and installing the circlips! Such a pain... I was hoping getting them on would be easier but nope. There is simply not enough clearance to maneuver the hands and the tools.
The good news is A/C is now 100%!
The clutch and the bearing were in excellent shape, so I didn't replace them. The clutch gap was originally 0.65 mm. I used the exact same shims, so the gap is still 0.65 mm.
I put the vehicle on ramps with wheels turned fully right, and worked from the passenger wheel well. I leaned my head and upper back to the inside of the wheel, used an old crib matress to make it more comfortable and a portable light.
While there, I replaced the accessory belt, oil/oil filter, air filter and I did some small paint job on the front bumper while waiting for the new stator. (Paint job is not included in the 5 hours).
Great job rdj!
I'd like to add a few suggestions for future readers who want to prepare for this job. For those who want to be prepared for a long summer vacation trip, read this thread because it can happen to you (Stator failure). If you plan ahead and carry a Stator with you, it can be bought for $60 or so. Also carry a spare relay as a diagnostic tool and as a replacement if needed.
But no worry, I already figure out the fix (Stator DIY) even in a parking lot far away from home! Read on...
Please note that the 3 points I am listing below are for "the ghetto fix". In other words, by having these tools in the trunk, you can do this fix anywhere (assuming you find a wood ramp, curb, rock to drive the RF tire on it to avoid removing the RF tire).
1. "rdj", I completely understand your frustration with the circlip!
I also wasted alot of time trying to figure out how to remove it because my standard snap ring pliers only opened to 50mm max.
Only after 2-3h later I discovered the trick with the snap ring pliers (see Step #10 in the DIY above).
Basically connecting the 45-degree tip on 1 side only, leaving the other side alone. This will allow you to open the circlip in a nice and easy way! Trust me, it works beautifully!
I wished I knew this trick early on. Oh well, live and learn!
2. Second issue is how to hold the AC clutch still while loosening/tightening the 10-mm center bolt.
- I am working on a simple tool using hardware store item. I will post detail when I am done.
- For now, a small wrench (such as 8mm, 9mm or 10mm wrench) will work if you place the wrench in a strategic manner.
- I took this pic from "geobrick" and show where a wrench can be placed to counter-hold the AC Clutch: basically the open end of the small wrench rests against the rivet and the closed end rests on the van steel body. It is a bit tricky but you can do it!
3. Lastly the serpentine belt tool issue. Sure you can carry the Harbor Freight tool in the trunk but it is long.
Best is to carry the following items:
- 1/2" steel square piece about 2 inches long (hardware store).
The reason I mention 1/2" is: it is easy to get at hardware store and it fits perfectly in the close end of a 15mm wrench.
- One (1) close-end 14mm/15mm offset wrench.
- Another close-end wrench with at least a 15mm end. I carry a 15mm/17mm combo wrench because I might need this wrench for other emergency job.
This way you can double the 2 wrenches together (using the 1/2" square) to make them longer for better leverage.
There is a "universal" AC Clutch Tool (available at Autozone etc.). You can buy this tool on ebay for about $10-$12.
Adjust the 3 legs until they match with the rivets on the AC Clutch.
In the photo below:
- (L) side shows you how to apply the technique
- (R) side is what the tool looks like:
![]()
Adjust the 3 legs until they match with the rivets on the AC Clutch.
In the photo below:
- (L) side shows you how to apply the technique
- (R) side is what the tool looks like:
Any special reason why the stator should fail often? Anything avoidable? Some owners have had a relay stuck on problem causing a dead battery.
According to this article by an AC parts maker: http://www.4s.com/Upload/Four Seasons/documents/Tech Tips/English/4S 303 BEARING FAILURES.PDF
"The clutch coil will start to overheat if the available voltage is insufficient."
According to this article by an AC parts maker: http://www.4s.com/Upload/Four Seasons/documents/Tech Tips/English/4S 303 BEARING FAILURES.PDF
"The clutch coil will start to overheat if the available voltage is insufficient."
If the relay is stuck in the "ON", the AC will run all the time.
Not to mention that the battery will be drained.
I believe the AC Stator was manufactured using subpar coil winding material and it breaks with time.
Just do a google search "honda repeated ac compressor stator failure" and you will see that many Honda dealers now deal with this frequent AC Stator failure.
Not to mention that the battery will be drained.
I believe the AC Stator was manufactured using subpar coil winding material and it breaks with time.
Just do a google search "honda repeated ac compressor stator failure" and you will see that many Honda dealers now deal with this frequent AC Stator failure.
More AC Clutch Tools!
It is now the weekend, so I have a little time to update you guys about some Tips/Tricks.
1. Re Serpentine Belt Tool.
- Search forum for the difference between J35A6 vs J35A7 engine.
- Since I have J35A6 engine, I loosen the belt via the UPPER Pulley, which is 14-mm.
I have the Offset wrench 14mm-15mm type. To extend the leverage, I got a compression coupling nut from a hardware (or autoparts store). This coupling nut has the hex part being 15-mm, so it fits perfectly.
- The threaded coupling nut at Home Depot has the hex part being 16-mm. You can use that as well but you need to shave it down to 15-mm. Now if your offset wrench is 14mm-16mm type, then no need to shave it.
![]()
2. Re: 10mm Center Bolt.
- When using the “AC Clutch Tool” as shown, make sure the 3 legs are adjusted with equi-distance, if not, it is difficult to insert the 10-mm socket in the center hole of the tool.
![]()
3. If you are in the middle of nowhere without the Special Tool as mention above, here is the “MacGyver” trick: get a steel bar and cut into 2 lengths: 5-1/4” and 12-1/4”.
- The short piece is for "Tighten the 10-mm Bolt". It fits directly: one end on the Rivet, the other end in the hole in Body Work.
- The long piece is for "Loosen the 10-mm Bolt". It needs to be bent a tiny bit so it fits the Rivet on the AC Clutch. The other end is taped to the Engine Mount (otherwise it falls off).
![]()
![]()
4. Re: Snap Ring Pliers.
- As mentioned above, the 45-degree tip is the best.
- If you accidentally break the 45-degree tip, no worry, you can convert a straight tip into a 45-degree tip using a pair of adjustable wrenches. In fact, all of these tips come from the factory as straight, then they convert it to different angles (45-degree, 90-degree etc.).
![]()
It is now the weekend, so I have a little time to update you guys about some Tips/Tricks.
1. Re Serpentine Belt Tool.
- Search forum for the difference between J35A6 vs J35A7 engine.
- Since I have J35A6 engine, I loosen the belt via the UPPER Pulley, which is 14-mm.
I have the Offset wrench 14mm-15mm type. To extend the leverage, I got a compression coupling nut from a hardware (or autoparts store). This coupling nut has the hex part being 15-mm, so it fits perfectly.
- The threaded coupling nut at Home Depot has the hex part being 16-mm. You can use that as well but you need to shave it down to 15-mm. Now if your offset wrench is 14mm-16mm type, then no need to shave it.
2. Re: 10mm Center Bolt.
- When using the “AC Clutch Tool” as shown, make sure the 3 legs are adjusted with equi-distance, if not, it is difficult to insert the 10-mm socket in the center hole of the tool.
3. If you are in the middle of nowhere without the Special Tool as mention above, here is the “MacGyver” trick: get a steel bar and cut into 2 lengths: 5-1/4” and 12-1/4”.
- The short piece is for "Tighten the 10-mm Bolt". It fits directly: one end on the Rivet, the other end in the hole in Body Work.
- The long piece is for "Loosen the 10-mm Bolt". It needs to be bent a tiny bit so it fits the Rivet on the AC Clutch. The other end is taped to the Engine Mount (otherwise it falls off).
4. Re: Snap Ring Pliers.
- As mentioned above, the 45-degree tip is the best.
- If you accidentally break the 45-degree tip, no worry, you can convert a straight tip into a 45-degree tip using a pair of adjustable wrenches. In fact, all of these tips come from the factory as straight, then they convert it to different angles (45-degree, 90-degree etc.).
I am tracking down the maker of the AC Stator (aka "Clutch Coil") as this is common failure item.
If the dealer sells this (38924-RGL-A01) online for $62, then the cost out of factory maybe about $20.
Sure enough I came across this website and they sell this brand "Omega" for $27.75:
Action Air - - Application 2007 Honda Odyssey V6 3.5L 3471cc
It looks identical to our AC Stator, here is the "Omega" brand:
![]()
If the dealer sells this (38924-RGL-A01) online for $62, then the cost out of factory maybe about $20.
Sure enough I came across this website and they sell this brand "Omega" for $27.75:
Action Air - - Application 2007 Honda Odyssey V6 3.5L 3471cc
It looks identical to our AC Stator, here is the "Omega" brand:
I spoke to "Action Air" distributor, the Omega PN is 23-20162.
-----------
Update,
There is another vendor on ebay seller "airpartsinc".
Just search "Acura Honda Toyota Suzuki A/C Compressor Clutch Coil", you will see something like this:
Acura Honda Toyota Suzuki A/C Compressor Clutch Coil | eBay
--------------------
This is the private message I got from the seller:
Q: I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey LX, which has a Denso compressor.
Do you know if this fits my van?
A: Yes your compressor is 10s20c Compressor type and this will fit your van.
Thank you,
Trish
Air Parts Inc
-----------
PS: Different years (2005-2007 vs 2008-2010) have different AC Stators, but I think the only difference is the electrical connectors.
So if you own a 2008+ models, you may use this part and modify the connector to fit.
-----------
Update,
There is another vendor on ebay seller "airpartsinc".
Just search "Acura Honda Toyota Suzuki A/C Compressor Clutch Coil", you will see something like this:
Acura Honda Toyota Suzuki A/C Compressor Clutch Coil | eBay
--------------------
This is the private message I got from the seller:
Q: I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey LX, which has a Denso compressor.
Do you know if this fits my van?
A: Yes your compressor is 10s20c Compressor type and this will fit your van.
Thank you,
Trish
Air Parts Inc
-----------
PS: Different years (2005-2007 vs 2008-2010) have different AC Stators, but I think the only difference is the electrical connectors.
So if you own a 2008+ models, you may use this part and modify the connector to fit.
Per Omega website:
23-20162R Clutch Coil fits the following vehicles:
Year Make Model Application
2003 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1794cc
2004 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1794cc
2005 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1794cc
2005 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1795cc
2006 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1795cc
2006 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1794cc
2007 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1794cc
2003 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1794cc
2003 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1795cc
2004 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1794cc
2004 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1795cc
2005 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1794cc
2005 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1795cc
2006 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1795cc
2006 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1794cc
2007 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1794cc
2008 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1794cc
2000 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1794cc
2000 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1795cc
2001 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1794cc
2001 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1795cc
2002 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1794cc
2002 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1795cc
2003 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1794cc
2003 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1795cc
2004 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1794cc
2004 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1795cc
2005 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1794cc
2005 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1795cc
2004 Toyota Sienna V6 3.3L 3300cc 202cid
2005 Toyota Sienna V6 3.3L 3300cc 202cid
2003 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2977cc
2003 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2997cc 183cid
2004 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2977cc
2005 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2977cc
2005 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2997cc
2006 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2997cc
2007 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2997cc
2003 Honda Element L4 2.4L 2354cc
2004 Honda Element L4 2.4L 2354cc
2005 Honda Element L4 2.4L 2354cc
2006 Honda Element L4 2.4L 2354cc
2005 Honda Odyssey V6 3.5L 3471cc
2006 Honda Odyssey V6 3.5L 3471cc
2007 Honda Odyssey V6 3.5L 3471cc
2005 Acura RL V6 3.5L 3471cc
2002 Suzuki Aerio L4 2.0L 2000cc
2003 Suzuki Aerio L4 2.0L 2000cc
2004 Suzuki Aerio L4 2.3L 2290cc 140cid
2005 Suzuki Aerio L4 2.3L 2290cc 140cid
2006 Suzuki Aerio L4 2.3L 2290cc 140cid
2007 Suzuki Aerio L4 2.3L 2290cc 140cid
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23-20162R Clutch Coil fits the following vehicles:
Year Make Model Application
2003 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1794cc
2004 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1794cc
2005 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1794cc
2005 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1795cc
2006 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1795cc
2006 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1794cc
2007 Toyota Corolla L4 1.8L 1794cc
2003 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1794cc
2003 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1795cc
2004 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1794cc
2004 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1795cc
2005 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1794cc
2005 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1795cc
2006 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1795cc
2006 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1794cc
2007 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1794cc
2008 Toyota Matrix L4 1.8L 1794cc
2000 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1794cc
2000 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1795cc
2001 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1794cc
2001 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1795cc
2002 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1794cc
2002 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1795cc
2003 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1794cc
2003 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1795cc
2004 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1794cc
2004 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1795cc
2005 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1794cc
2005 Toyota Celica L4 1.8L 1795cc
2004 Toyota Sienna V6 3.3L 3300cc 202cid
2005 Toyota Sienna V6 3.3L 3300cc 202cid
2003 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2977cc
2003 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2997cc 183cid
2004 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2977cc
2005 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2977cc
2005 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2997cc
2006 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2997cc
2007 Honda Accord V6 3.0L 2997cc
2003 Honda Element L4 2.4L 2354cc
2004 Honda Element L4 2.4L 2354cc
2005 Honda Element L4 2.4L 2354cc
2006 Honda Element L4 2.4L 2354cc
2005 Honda Odyssey V6 3.5L 3471cc
2006 Honda Odyssey V6 3.5L 3471cc
2007 Honda Odyssey V6 3.5L 3471cc
2005 Acura RL V6 3.5L 3471cc
2002 Suzuki Aerio L4 2.0L 2000cc
2003 Suzuki Aerio L4 2.0L 2000cc
2004 Suzuki Aerio L4 2.3L 2290cc 140cid
2005 Suzuki Aerio L4 2.3L 2290cc 140cid
2006 Suzuki Aerio L4 2.3L 2290cc 140cid
2007 Suzuki Aerio L4 2.3L 2290cc 140cid
Have you ever wondered what the AC Stator (Clutch Coil) looks from the inside?
In this Toyota forum, a fellow rebuilt his AC Stator with $7 of copper wire!
Read this for fun:
AC Clutch coil repair...
In this Toyota forum, a fellow rebuilt his AC Stator with $7 of copper wire!
Read this for fun:
AC Clutch coil repair...
Update,
I decide to pursue this matter and try to find the “root cause” of the problem (repeated AC Stator failure). This way I may be able to prevent it from happening again.
Some terminology: AC Stator = Clutch Coil = Field Coil in the AC business jargon.
I visited a local independent shop specialized in Honda and Aura repair. They fix Honda and Acura only, no other brands. The techs told me the Odyssey and CRV models AC Stator (aka “Clutch Coil”) failures are common. They see it all the time. As to the “root cause”, these techs have no idea why these parts fail all the time. No wonder I am on my 4th AC Stator.
Now, on to the design of the AC Compressor system, if you look at Denso (or any other brand such as Sanden etc.) AC compressor: from outside ---> inside:
1- AC Clutch Plate (Armature)
2- AC Pulley with the friction plate and bearing in it
3- AC Clutch (“Clutch Coil”): this is the electromagnetic device that frequently fails. The exact reason is the $1M question! Is it broken winding vs broken thermal fuse?
4- From reading the internet, low voltage (such as below 11.5V) can cause clutch coil failure, why? This is because low voltage is not enough to energize the clutch coil, so the magnetic force is not enough to pull the AC Clutch inward ---> slippage ---> overheat. This is not the case in the Ody as voltage at the relay is good (unless there is a problem with the relay causing some resistance ---> lower voltage than designed for). Also, the ground wire in Ody seems to be secured properly.
When I replaced the Clutch Coil recently, I saw no evidence of compressor overheat, the AC Clutch looks fine, the bearing OK, the plastic on top of the compressor is not broken etc. etc.
So, the finger is now pointing to #5 below, read on…
5- Interestingly, the AC Clutch has a thermal fuse built into it. When an overheat occurs (such as temp above ? 135C…OK let’s use this number just to talk about), the thermal fuse trips, creating an open circuit to protect the compressor. The causes of overheat are to be discussed later.
Denso has many patents on “thermal fuse” but you can enter Patent Number “6,161,671” to read it.
US Patent Full-Text Database Number Search
So my theory is: at factory, the Honda (basically Denso) Clutch Coil has a thermal fuse that may:
a. Have defect waiting to happen, i.e., fuse blows even when temp of the clutch coil is within normal operating temp. In other words, this part (thermal fuse) does not perform its function as designed by engineers. BTW, a thermal fuse is about $2-$3 at Radio Shack!
b. Spec’d below operating condition, For example, if the compressor regularly runs at 125C-135C, it is a matter of time until the 135C-thermal fuse blows. So it might be better to fit a thermal fuse with higher rating such as 145C (again this is a random number that I came up with).
c. FYI…Some early model Honda Civic has the thermal protector mounted on the compressor itself (outside of the Clutch Coil).
d. Lastly, the thermal fuse may blow because the system has low level of PAG oil (causing compressor overheat), or maybe too much PAG oil (compressor cannot compress liquid).
Anyway, one of these days, I will measure the AC compressor temp during operation with an Infrared Non-Contact Thermometer!
-----------
OK, enough academic stuff…..There is a company in Ocala FL (Air Parts Inc) that which specializes in making Clutch Coil (they even supply Clutch Coils to German car makers)…some “possibly good news”, I spoke to the technical man at Air Parts Inc today. He is very knowledgeable about AC Clutch Coil etc., he is very aware that Denso AC Clutch Coil thermal fuse blows all the time. He has sold hundreds and thousands of these clutch coils throughout the US. At their Florida facility, they mfg their own clutch coil.
The technical man told me they do NOT use thermal fuse and have never had a return part! According to him, the thermal fuse creates more problems than it tries to protect! Also, he told me many mechanics do NOT adjust the AC Clutch gap properly, this is the #1 cause of clutch slippage ---> burned clutch coil:
- My 2007 Ody LX AC Clutch gap is now at 0.40 mm (I removed a shim during the AC Stator change recently).
- Anyway, I just ordered a spare clutch coil from Air Parts ($38.50 including shipping). If my current AC Stator ever goes out again, I will install the “Air Parts Inc” Stator. Plus I might install an “external thermal fuse” such as in the Civic. This way it can be easily replaced! I will take pics and post them when the part arrives. Stay tuned!
Air Parts Inc
1133 North Magnolia Avenue
Ocala, FL 34475‎
(352) 732-0720
PS: To illustrate what I said above, I took this pic from Denso, insert the “yellow line” to show you where the thermal fuse is located on the surface of the Clutch Coil, within millimeters from the inner surface of the Pulley itself.
Hey....I never thought owning an Ody is that fun (my sarcasm is at work LOL)...
![]()
I decide to pursue this matter and try to find the “root cause” of the problem (repeated AC Stator failure). This way I may be able to prevent it from happening again.
Some terminology: AC Stator = Clutch Coil = Field Coil in the AC business jargon.
I visited a local independent shop specialized in Honda and Aura repair. They fix Honda and Acura only, no other brands. The techs told me the Odyssey and CRV models AC Stator (aka “Clutch Coil”) failures are common. They see it all the time. As to the “root cause”, these techs have no idea why these parts fail all the time. No wonder I am on my 4th AC Stator.
Now, on to the design of the AC Compressor system, if you look at Denso (or any other brand such as Sanden etc.) AC compressor: from outside ---> inside:
1- AC Clutch Plate (Armature)
2- AC Pulley with the friction plate and bearing in it
3- AC Clutch (“Clutch Coil”): this is the electromagnetic device that frequently fails. The exact reason is the $1M question! Is it broken winding vs broken thermal fuse?
4- From reading the internet, low voltage (such as below 11.5V) can cause clutch coil failure, why? This is because low voltage is not enough to energize the clutch coil, so the magnetic force is not enough to pull the AC Clutch inward ---> slippage ---> overheat. This is not the case in the Ody as voltage at the relay is good (unless there is a problem with the relay causing some resistance ---> lower voltage than designed for). Also, the ground wire in Ody seems to be secured properly.
When I replaced the Clutch Coil recently, I saw no evidence of compressor overheat, the AC Clutch looks fine, the bearing OK, the plastic on top of the compressor is not broken etc. etc.
So, the finger is now pointing to #5 below, read on…
5- Interestingly, the AC Clutch has a thermal fuse built into it. When an overheat occurs (such as temp above ? 135C…OK let’s use this number just to talk about), the thermal fuse trips, creating an open circuit to protect the compressor. The causes of overheat are to be discussed later.
Denso has many patents on “thermal fuse” but you can enter Patent Number “6,161,671” to read it.
US Patent Full-Text Database Number Search
So my theory is: at factory, the Honda (basically Denso) Clutch Coil has a thermal fuse that may:
a. Have defect waiting to happen, i.e., fuse blows even when temp of the clutch coil is within normal operating temp. In other words, this part (thermal fuse) does not perform its function as designed by engineers. BTW, a thermal fuse is about $2-$3 at Radio Shack!
b. Spec’d below operating condition, For example, if the compressor regularly runs at 125C-135C, it is a matter of time until the 135C-thermal fuse blows. So it might be better to fit a thermal fuse with higher rating such as 145C (again this is a random number that I came up with).
c. FYI…Some early model Honda Civic has the thermal protector mounted on the compressor itself (outside of the Clutch Coil).
d. Lastly, the thermal fuse may blow because the system has low level of PAG oil (causing compressor overheat), or maybe too much PAG oil (compressor cannot compress liquid).
Anyway, one of these days, I will measure the AC compressor temp during operation with an Infrared Non-Contact Thermometer!
-----------
OK, enough academic stuff…..There is a company in Ocala FL (Air Parts Inc) that which specializes in making Clutch Coil (they even supply Clutch Coils to German car makers)…some “possibly good news”, I spoke to the technical man at Air Parts Inc today. He is very knowledgeable about AC Clutch Coil etc., he is very aware that Denso AC Clutch Coil thermal fuse blows all the time. He has sold hundreds and thousands of these clutch coils throughout the US. At their Florida facility, they mfg their own clutch coil.
The technical man told me they do NOT use thermal fuse and have never had a return part! According to him, the thermal fuse creates more problems than it tries to protect! Also, he told me many mechanics do NOT adjust the AC Clutch gap properly, this is the #1 cause of clutch slippage ---> burned clutch coil:
Alright:
- My 2007 Ody LX AC Clutch gap is now at 0.40 mm (I removed a shim during the AC Stator change recently).
- Anyway, I just ordered a spare clutch coil from Air Parts ($38.50 including shipping). If my current AC Stator ever goes out again, I will install the “Air Parts Inc” Stator. Plus I might install an “external thermal fuse” such as in the Civic. This way it can be easily replaced! I will take pics and post them when the part arrives. Stay tuned!
Air Parts Inc
1133 North Magnolia Avenue
Ocala, FL 34475‎
(352) 732-0720
PS: To illustrate what I said above, I took this pic from Denso, insert the “yellow line” to show you where the thermal fuse is located on the surface of the Clutch Coil, within millimeters from the inner surface of the Pulley itself.
Hey....I never thought owning an Ody is that fun (my sarcasm is at work LOL)...
How to check R134a Pressure
Finally it is weekend, so I have some free time to take some pictures and add to this thread.
For those who are new to AC work, this is how you check R134a level in 3rd Gen Odyssey:
- Remove Blue Cap on AC Low Pressure side.
- Attach Gauge (I use Interdynamics brand) via Quick Disconnect
- Make sure no tool is near the serpentine belt!
- Start engine and turn AC on.
- After a few minutes, read the gauge.
- In my case, it was 25C ambient temp and the pressure is 28 psi @ engine idle = 700 rpm.
Probably OK.
![]()
Finally it is weekend, so I have some free time to take some pictures and add to this thread.
For those who are new to AC work, this is how you check R134a level in 3rd Gen Odyssey:
- Remove Blue Cap on AC Low Pressure side.
- Attach Gauge (I use Interdynamics brand) via Quick Disconnect
- Make sure no tool is near the serpentine belt!
- Start engine and turn AC on.
- After a few minutes, read the gauge.
- In my case, it was 25C ambient temp and the pressure is 28 psi @ engine idle = 700 rpm.
Probably OK.
How to check AC Relay
Study the diagram below. The AC relays has 4 legs:
- 2 Small blades (low current circuit)
- 2 Large blades (high current circuit)
--------------
Fig. 1b: shows you the pinout
Fig. 1a: The Larger Outer Receptacle ---> always "hot" with 12V.
Fig. 1c: When key in position II, the Smaller Connector ---> 12V.
Fig. 1d: To test if AC Stator receives proper Voltage (at least 11.5V!):
- Remove the Blue Relay for easier access.
- Lift the AC Relay out, then insert the relay partially so the probe can reach the Large Middle Blade (on the relay).
- Start the engine and turn AC On.
- Probe Large Middle Blade (on the relay), you should have at east 12V, in my case it was 14.26V.
So relay is good and AC Stator receives proper voltage.
Next up: how to rebuild the AC Stator, no joke!
![]()
Study the diagram below. The AC relays has 4 legs:
- 2 Small blades (low current circuit)
- 2 Large blades (high current circuit)
--------------
Fig. 1b: shows you the pinout
Fig. 1a: The Larger Outer Receptacle ---> always "hot" with 12V.
Fig. 1c: When key in position II, the Smaller Connector ---> 12V.
Fig. 1d: To test if AC Stator receives proper Voltage (at least 11.5V!):
- Remove the Blue Relay for easier access.
- Lift the AC Relay out, then insert the relay partially so the probe can reach the Large Middle Blade (on the relay).
- Start the engine and turn AC On.
- Probe Large Middle Blade (on the relay), you should have at east 12V, in my case it was 14.26V.
So relay is good and AC Stator receives proper voltage.
Next up: how to rebuild the AC Stator, no joke!
Eureka: How to rebuild your AC Stator!
OK,
1. If you want to replace the AC Stator all the time, then use Honda Stator.
It has a small thermal fuse that blows up for no reason.
This is a $2 part that causes $1000 repair bill.
If you are worried about this mod, then don't read #2 below.
2. This is how to rebuild (or bypass) the thermal fuse.
- Do this at your own risks (or joy LOL).
- First make sure your van has proper R134a level/pressure
- Then AC Clutch gap must be within spec to avoid overheat of compressor.
The thermal fuse has many applications, it is used in toaster, electric kettle, Stator etc. etc.
The reason for thermal fuse in an AC Stator was discussed in previous threads.
The Honda Stator for some goofy reasons (probably spec below operating temp) blows all the time.
Some car don't even have termal fuse in the Stator.
Below is a guide on how to rebuild (or bypass) your Stator.
The idea is to hollow out the thermal fuse and add solder to it.
Fig. 1 shows you defective Stator.
- Using drill bit 5/64", drill only the first 2mm or so, you will reach the hollow part.
- Do NOT drill through he other side.
- Just go slow.
- Two small 2mm springs came out!
![]()
Fig. 2 shows you after you "walk" the drill bit sideway (from R to L) to hollow out the thermal fuse.
- Once you have done this (walk the drill bit sideway), the wires from both ends of the fuse are now touching the fuse's casing.
- Now you have continuity again but this is not a permanent fix.
![]()
Fig.3 shows you solder applied to the hollow core.
- Just make sure no solder protrudes outward. It must be flat otherwise it touches the Pulley!
Congrats!!!
![]()
OK,
1. If you want to replace the AC Stator all the time, then use Honda Stator.
It has a small thermal fuse that blows up for no reason.
This is a $2 part that causes $1000 repair bill.
If you are worried about this mod, then don't read #2 below.
2. This is how to rebuild (or bypass) the thermal fuse.
- Do this at your own risks (or joy LOL).
- First make sure your van has proper R134a level/pressure
- Then AC Clutch gap must be within spec to avoid overheat of compressor.
The thermal fuse has many applications, it is used in toaster, electric kettle, Stator etc. etc.
The reason for thermal fuse in an AC Stator was discussed in previous threads.
The Honda Stator for some goofy reasons (probably spec below operating temp) blows all the time.
Some car don't even have termal fuse in the Stator.
Below is a guide on how to rebuild (or bypass) your Stator.
The idea is to hollow out the thermal fuse and add solder to it.
Fig. 1 shows you defective Stator.
- Using drill bit 5/64", drill only the first 2mm or so, you will reach the hollow part.
- Do NOT drill through he other side.
- Just go slow.
- Two small 2mm springs came out!
Fig. 2 shows you after you "walk" the drill bit sideway (from R to L) to hollow out the thermal fuse.
- Once you have done this (walk the drill bit sideway), the wires from both ends of the fuse are now touching the fuse's casing.
- Now you have continuity again but this is not a permanent fix.
Fig.3 shows you solder applied to the hollow core.
- Just make sure no solder protrudes outward. It must be flat otherwise it touches the Pulley!
Congrats!!!
To illustrate my mod better, just look at diagram below:
(A) Normal thermal fuse: current flows from 1a ---> 1b.
(B) Blown thermal fuse: current slops flowing.
Mod that I suggested:
(C) Hollow out the core.
Note that you don't want to drill through the opposite side!
(D) Fill the hollow core with Solder to re-establish connectivity of electrical flow.
That is all.
NOTE:
1. By doing this mod (which basically costs you nothing other than Soldering), you don't have a thermal fuse:
- From my talking to some engineers, many cars Stator does not have thermal fuse.
- The Air Parts Inc engineers (Ocala, FL) told me all of their Stators have no thermal fuse, because thermal fuse creates way more problems than it tries to prevent!
- According to them, they never have a part returned!
2. To avoid AC Clutch overheat:
- Make sure all electrical connections to AC Stator are good.
- AC Relay is good.
- R134a pressure is correct.
- This is crucial: AC Clutch gap must be correct.
I set mine on the lower end of the spec approx. 0.40mm (spec is 0.30-0.60mm).
3. I rebuilt the defective Stator (in threads above) to be used as a spare.
Next up, I will check compressor temp (during operation on the hottest day) with Infrared Thermometer and update everyone.
4. Another mod to consider is: install an external thermal protector as in earlier models of Honda Civic. This Honda Civic thread has info on thermal protector:
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/foru...ms-technical-chat-8/2001-civic-c-stopped-suddenly-compressor-still-works-83826/
Stay tuned.
![]()
(A) Normal thermal fuse: current flows from 1a ---> 1b.
(B) Blown thermal fuse: current slops flowing.
Mod that I suggested:
(C) Hollow out the core.
Note that you don't want to drill through the opposite side!
(D) Fill the hollow core with Solder to re-establish connectivity of electrical flow.
That is all.
NOTE:
1. By doing this mod (which basically costs you nothing other than Soldering), you don't have a thermal fuse:
- From my talking to some engineers, many cars Stator does not have thermal fuse.
- The Air Parts Inc engineers (Ocala, FL) told me all of their Stators have no thermal fuse, because thermal fuse creates way more problems than it tries to prevent!
- According to them, they never have a part returned!
2. To avoid AC Clutch overheat:
- Make sure all electrical connections to AC Stator are good.
- AC Relay is good.
- R134a pressure is correct.
- This is crucial: AC Clutch gap must be correct.
I set mine on the lower end of the spec approx. 0.40mm (spec is 0.30-0.60mm).
3. I rebuilt the defective Stator (in threads above) to be used as a spare.
Next up, I will check compressor temp (during operation on the hottest day) with Infrared Thermometer and update everyone.
4. Another mod to consider is: install an external thermal protector as in earlier models of Honda Civic. This Honda Civic thread has info on thermal protector:
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/foru...ms-technical-chat-8/2001-civic-c-stopped-suddenly-compressor-still-works-83826/
Stay tuned.
I just received the AC Stator from Air Parts Inc. (Ocala Florida).
Bought for $38.50 including shipping.
The AC Stator from Air Parts Inc is identical to Honda Stator in every respect:
- Same dimension: ID#1 = 40mm, ID#2 = 61mm, OD = 96mm, Thickness = 25mm.
- Same connector
- Same exact markings on the cover (where it faces the Pulley)!
- The Air Parts Stator has a resistance of about 4 Ohms, which is essentially the same as Honda.
This makes me wonder if Air Parts Inc. supplies the Stator to Denso, which specifies that Stator has Thermal Fuse as designed by Denso.
But when Air Parts Inc. sells it as aftermarket, it removes the Thermal Fuse!!!
PS: Later models 2008+ Ody has the same Stator, the only difference (when compared with 2005-2007 models) is the connector itself. Iguess people who own 2008+ models can modify the wiring to fit, should be easy.
Anyway, here is the comparison picture, now I have 2 spare Stators at home LOL:
![]()
Bought for $38.50 including shipping.
The AC Stator from Air Parts Inc is identical to Honda Stator in every respect:
- Same dimension: ID#1 = 40mm, ID#2 = 61mm, OD = 96mm, Thickness = 25mm.
- Same connector
- Same exact markings on the cover (where it faces the Pulley)!
- The Air Parts Stator has a resistance of about 4 Ohms, which is essentially the same as Honda.
This makes me wonder if Air Parts Inc. supplies the Stator to Denso, which specifies that Stator has Thermal Fuse as designed by Denso.
But when Air Parts Inc. sells it as aftermarket, it removes the Thermal Fuse!!!
PS: Later models 2008+ Ody has the same Stator, the only difference (when compared with 2005-2007 models) is the connector itself. Iguess people who own 2008+ models can modify the wiring to fit, should be easy.
Anyway, here is the comparison picture, now I have 2 spare Stators at home LOL:
Joined
·
5 Posts
I was attempting to replace the stator on the compressor, everything went well and smooth. I left the compressor bolted to the engine. Job was almost complete when I broke the end of the shaft when i was trying to fit the snap ring that holds the pulley in place. It was hard to see and get it in just right. I got the snap ring spread out nice and wide after about 10 minutes fooling with it trying to get it to fall into place around the shaft and then it slid off me pliers with great force and o jeez. Alot of cuss words and a major facepalm. I ended up replacing the the whole compressor. Total cost of $350 with refrigerant. So folks be careful with that snap ring.
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