[Golden7Dragon]

Hello everyone,

This is my first post here so I will try to make it short. I have a 2001 Ody that has 157,000 on it. It is on its second transmission. Currently it has some sort of engine stumble at 900ish-1,500 RPM. I can feel it if I have my hand on the motor and I can feel the stumble in the steering wheel while I am driving. The idle is steady and the stumble only happens during those RPMs. It does not matter whether it is in D or P or R, parked or driving. I also here it get rough whenever the cooling cycle comes on. Having the air on or off does not really affect the stumble either.

Over the last 3 months I have had it looked at by my dealer. They of course changed the spark plugs, checked the EGR, looked at the engine mounts, and used some injector cleaner. The second time I brought it back to them they did a valve adjustment on it. After these maintenance items were done it did feel better, but the engine stumble is still there.

I even had my local independent shop check the transmission out, they did the original rebuild. They replaced the 3rd pressure switch because the switch failed, but the engine still had the same stumble before and after. The transmission oil was also drained and filled and they said that it looked great!

I have unplugged and tested each coilpack, one at a time and fast of course. That determined nothing. I looked at the EGR and it looked clean. The dealer said the EGR passages were clean, the van had the EGR update done in 2007. I even took all the covers off and misted water over the hoses looking for a vacuum leak.

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Any help, comments, or words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated

 

[otto888man]

Welcome to the forum. Is your check engine light on? Was anything done before this happened? There was a post like last year that almost has the same symtom as you have it turned out. A clogged tranny cooler.

 

[otto888man]

Try this also, unpug the map sensor then see what happens. Do not be alarmed if it sets the check engine light.

 

[Golden7Dragon]

Hi Otto888man! Thanks for the welcome!

I have unplugged it and the engine turned off instantly. That startled me just a bit, so I plugged it back in and then restarted the car. I have not had any check engine lights. It is just alarming that the stumble is there. The first time I really observed it was around Oct 2014. This was right after an oil change and filter change at a independent shop that had been recommended to me by my co-workers. Also in September the 6 year old battery died and I had a new one put in my Autozone, still have the receipt of course.

 

[Golden7Dragon]

I have not yet looked at the PVC yet or the Evap stuff.

 

[New Dad New Van]

Common problem for engine idle fluctuation is a short or break in the power steering switch by the front passenger wheel. Search on "broken power steering switch" for more info...

 

[Golden7Dragon]

Okay, I will look into that.
Thanks!

 

[Golden7Dragon]

How often should the fuel filters be changed on these 2001 Ody vans?

 

[Buffalo4]

For fuel filter, read here: http://www.odyclub.com/forums/14-periodic-maintenance/2633-fuel-filter-location.html
Buffalo4

 

[Golden7Dragon]

I would like to add some things I have observed. Okay the idle is perfect and smooth if it is running under 800 RPM's. But whenever the RPM's go up, even up to 2,000 RPM's the rough feeling comes through the steering wheel and the interior cabin. To demonstrate this all I have to do is put it in N and then accelerate. As the needle passes 1,200 you really feel it. I am also getting about 14 mpg in city and 24 on highway and I use Quick Trip top tier fuel.

 

[Golden7Dragon]

I will read up on this. Thanks!

 

[Buffalo4]

So, it sounds like you did the ignition coil test at the rpm when it was missing or running rough? Is that correct?
Have you done a compression test recently? (Just throwing out some ideas).
I think using something like carb cleaner (or another product that would increase the engine speed) while checking for a vacuum leak would be better than misting water (more safety concerns also). Haven't done it personally, but read up on it.
Since you took it to the stealership, they probably did try to read any stored codes and made sure the bulb wasn't burned out, didn't they? :ahh:
Did the stealership due a fuel pressure test?
I doubt if the PCV valve is the culprit, but is it functioning properly?
Since it seemed to have happened after an oil and filter change, do check the wires and connector at the Power Steering Pump.
In fact, I would disconnect and reconnect every connector I could get to under the hood, just to help ensure the connections are good (doing that help get rid of oxidation at the contact area). :ahh:
That's all I have.
Buffalo4

 

[OdyinNH]

I still suspect a coil or the EGR. You could buy a coil and slowly replace each one to verify they are all good, OEM works best. The EGR can also do things like this but test fine.

 

[Golden7Dragon]

My honda dealer said that the EGR was fine. But then again they might not have.

 

[Golden7Dragon]

I took off the air hose and cleaned the throttle body today. Looking inside there was black residue that was oily and some of it was on the throttle plate. I am guessing that it is the normal functioning of the PVC system.

 

[Buffalo4]

Clean or replace the PCV valve.
An oil residue in the throttle body indicate 'could' indicate that you are burning oil due to worn or broken rings.
This could affect an O2 sensor or the cat converter.
Do a compression test for more info.
Buy yourself a OBD11 reader or one that is plugged in continuously. Can be very helpful. (Ultra-Guage, for instance or a cheap software one that works with your smartphone or laptop).
Borrow an infrared temp sensor and check to see if the catalytic converter is functioning properly.
The EGR valve is still suspect.
That's all I can come up with.
Buffalo4

 

[Golden7Dragon]

The oil residue is on the inside of the throttle body, the manifold side. I will do the above things listed. Thank you so much!

 

[Golden7Dragon]

Most everything on the van is original. The dealer of course says that they looked at the EGR passageway, but you never know. Again it was fixed in 2007 for insufficient flow and they put the kit in. About two months ago they said that my cylinders were at about 175, across all of them, on their compression tests. The oil does seem to go down by just shy of 1 quart by the time 2,000 miles have gone by.
I am making a list of all the great suggestions on this board. Thank you!

 

[Golden7Dragon]

Okay, I just took off, inspected, and cleaned the PCV valve. It looked clean and the rubber grommet was also in great condition. The valve itself also has that nice little rattle to it, meaning it is not gummed up at all. After I re-assembled I tested the valve by just taking it off the valve case, left the other end plugged into the IM. Well, it worked perfectly and have great suction.
When the tube was off I also noticed that there was not really any oily residue inside the rubber tube. Now the residue inside the IM is not thick, but I am guessing that it is not the best sign and as Buffalo4 said, might indicate worn or broken rings.
I will keep investigating

 

[Buffalo4]

Well, with that compression and only a little oil in the PCV tube, your rings are most likely in good shape.
EGR valve is still suspect, but I don't know how to accurately test it.
Did you do the coil test when the engine was running at the rpm where it was stumbling?
Do the idle learn procedure unless you already did it after cleaning the throttle body area. Free and pretty easy to do.
Perhaps you could buy or borrow an OBDII reader to check that your O2 sensors are up to snuff.
Also, the cat converter is probably fine, but an infrared thermometer can check it pretty quickly.
Out of ideas,
Buffalo4