[saphyre1225]

We have a 2007 and I followed the reset instructions by pulling the #7 fuse and all. Now the driver's side sliding door will not open or close automatically at all. When we close it manually, it will not fully close (meaning the rear edge of the door sticks out a little causing the inside lights to stay on. The only change is that the motor itself is not causing a problem and we no longer hear that noise if we are in drive saying the door isn't fully closed. Any ideas? Trying to do what we can on our own.

 

[flat_lander]

We have a 2007 and I followed the reset instructions by pulling the #7 fuse and all. Now the driver's side sliding door will not open or close automatically at all. When we close it manually, it will not fully close (meaning the rear edge of the door sticks out a little causing the inside lights to stay on. The only change is that the motor itself is not causing a problem and we no longer hear that noise if we are in drive saying the door isn't fully closed. Any ideas? Trying to do what we can on our own.

I have almost the exact same problem. Both doors had been working, but occasionally we would get the alarm when in drive indicating a door was not closed, but no lights were on. We had been turning off the door switch as needed. The problem got worse, so I found how to "reset" the doors on youtube by pulling #7 fuse thinking that might help. After doing so, the driver door stopped working all together. It will not work at all. I found the correct full reset procedure on this board, but still no change in function. I am going to check the rear latch tomorrow and see if it is bound up. This may be why the battery has been going down.

 

[flat_lander]

I cleaned up both latches without disassembly and it is now working again. Who knows how long it will last without taking it apart for a proper cleaning, but if it waits till warmer weather, I'll be happy.

 

[micahsteele]

Confirming Orillia's solution above -- a healthy dose of WD-40 and some cycling of the latch cleared this issue up for me. I'm keeping more WD-40 on hand for if/when it happens again, but try this before considering a long or expensive repair.

 

[taylorchriso]

Thank you!

My issue started with the drivers side sliding door working intermittently... Then, a dead battery. Took the battery to Les Schwab... totally dead, unrecoverable. Replaced with top of line battery, charging system tested out fine. The drivers sliding door wouldn't respond to any automatic request, key fob, dash switch or the handle. It did operate manually. However, sometimes when closing it manually the rear latch wouldn't hold. I noticed that while closing it with the dash switch set to off, I could hear the motor try to do something. Two weeks later, dead battery. Again, charging system fine and Les Schwab charged my new battery back up. I found a parasitic drain (power draw) on my battery. I had a hunch it was related to the door and of course after pulling the #7 fuse, the drain dropped. So, I thought I would start with replacing the center roller. I kept the #7 fuse out which saved the battery from dying until the center roller part came (40 bucks on Amazon). I replaced the roller. The door still wouldn't operate automatically. I decided to venture into the solve in this thread.
I watched the video to take of the door panel, that was super helpful. Then, I attempted to remove the rear latch assembly. WOW! That was difficult! I wish I recorded it so I could post a YouTube video for others. If I need to do the other side I will. After about an hour trying to get that assembly out, I decided to give up and try spray it with WD40. Then I put everythign back together. Then, I accidentally flipped the reach latch and the door wouldn't close. I couldn't figure out how to flip the latch again! After about another 30 minutes, I decided to try and pull the rear latch assembly back out to see if I could flip the latch. I don't know what I did differently, but magically I was able to remove the assembly this time! I was able to finish the remaining steps, reset the latch and reassemble everything. Final test... THE DOOR WORKS! It is so smooth now with the new roller and all automatic operation works. I can't believe it.

Thanks for all the posts!

And, here is a GREAT video that explains how to replace the center roller. This was super easy for me and I don't do this stuff often.

 

[taylorchriso]

Video of rear latch assembly

I created a video to provide some additional insight into the rear latch assembly repair including some tips a long the way...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2_negMkxPI

My issue started with the drivers side sliding door working intermittently... Then, a dead battery. Took the battery to Les Schwab... totally dead, unrecoverable. Replaced with top of line battery, charging system tested out fine. The drivers sliding door wouldn't respond to any automatic request, key fob, dash switch or the handle. It did operate manually. However, sometimes when closing it manually the rear latch wouldn't hold. I noticed that while closing it with the dash switch set to off, I could hear the motor try to do something. Two weeks later, dead battery. Again, charging system fine and Les Schwab charged my new battery back up. I found a parasitic drain (power draw) on my battery. I had a hunch it was related to the door and of course after pulling the #7 fuse, the drain dropped. So, I thought I would start with replacing the center roller. I kept the #7 fuse out which saved the battery from dying until the center roller part came (40 bucks on Amazon). I replaced the roller. The door still wouldn't operate automatically. I decided to venture into the solve in this thread.
I watched the video to take of the door panel, that was super helpful. Then, I attempted to remove the rear latch assembly. WOW! That was difficult! I wish I recorded it so I could post a YouTube video for others. If I need to do the other side I will. After about an hour trying to get that assembly out, I decided to give up and try spray it with WD40. Then I put everythign back together. Then, I accidentally flipped the reach latch and the door wouldn't close. I couldn't figure out how to flip the latch again! After about another 30 minutes, I decided to try and pull the rear latch assembly back out to see if I could flip the latch. I don't know what I did differently, but magically I was able to remove the assembly this time! I was able to finish the remaining steps, reset the latch and reassemble everything. Final test... THE DOOR WORKS! It is so smooth now with the new roller and all automatic operation works. I can't believe it.

Thanks for all the posts!

And, here is a GREAT video that explains how to replace the center roller. This was super easy for me and I don't do this stuff often.

 

[xtriggerman]

Ok, I need to kick this up a notch. My issue was originally a door alarm going off and dead batteries. exactly a year ago I followed the suggestion here and cleaned & lubed both door latches and bingo, no dead battery or alarm. Now the dead battery issue has returned after one day with the same door alarm on my 05. Getting one year out of a good cleaning is not cutting it. So either I fix the tight stem on the camming arm or I rewire that contact switch to a new push switch that will ALWAYS open/close the circuit similar to an old fashion dome light switch once the door is closed. See what happens today.

 

[xtriggerman]

dead battery

After taking both rear door latching assemblies out, I found both camming arms still working freely. I tested all 3 switches and found they were all still working properly. What I did find that may well be the cause of the dead battery was the passenger side door pin latch had a very lazy spring return action. This is the bugger Im talking about;

If this latch arm is slightly more in a counter clock wise position than what you see circled, it will still have a closed circuit with the green armed positional switch. This latch arm must have a snappy spring action to open the positional switch circuit. My did not. I cleaned, blew it out will 120 LBS of air and lubed it. It was better but it would still drag just enough as to not go all the way clock wise to its stop. So, I did what any good mechanic would do, Get a good ball pean hammer and give it a couple easy shots with a punch on this spot on the vise as you see it;

That did the trick! It gave the buckle inside there a tiny bit more space off that half moon impressed metal grove that keeps the buckle latch off the side wall of the housing. I'm hoping this is the fix to the dead battery since everything else checked out good in these particular assemblies.
I'll know in the morning. I'll post back.

 

[John Clark]

Great work! My kind of solution, too. I like it! Please do post back and let us know if that did the trick.

 

[xtriggerman]

I just fired the van up here at 11;30 AM. It spun over like a freshly charged battery! No way would that have happened before the ball peen tune up. The battery is only 2 years old. Those rear lock switches are defiantly major players in the dead battery syndrome.

 

[John Clark]

Thanks for posting back. Extremely helpful!

 

[ohmslaw]

Did the spray lube fix from the outside and everything works great! Also replaced the rear door brackets/rollers.

 

[ktyler2]

05 EX-L with same issue on driver's side. Only a problem when I use the automatic feature. If I close the door manually, it stays closed and does not pop back open.

Still an issue with the rear latch?

 

[carbargn]

I just ran into the same problem. After a $1,000+ estimate at the dealers I decided to look at it myself.

NOTE: I had to replace the centre roller assembly as well.

The problem is in the door closer itself at the rear side of the door. I took a couple of photos to show what I did.

Take off all the interior panels, the plastic seal sheet, etc. You want to have all the inside nubbins exposed.

Remove the rear door closer assembly. (Turn OFF the power switch on the dash but be forwarned, there is STILL power on the door closer assembly.

To remove the door closer, take out three bolts on the back face of the door where the "catch" is.. And, another two gold coloured bolts on the inside of the door above where the closer motor itself is.

It's a bit fiddly but work the assembly around until you can pull it out through the large hole in the inside door skin. (Detach cable/wiring clips as necessary.

On the "back" of the closer is a plastic cover. Remove it. There are two small #1 phillips screws holding it on along with some "tape" on the top. When you have it off, it should look like the "Door Closer" photo attached.

Now, look at the end where the catch assembly is and look at photo "Door Closer 2". The piece inside the red circle SHOULD pivot. It's probably seized even though there is no sign of rust and there is lots of grease on it.

That piece does two things. It mechanically latches the catch when the door is shut and also activates the blue microswitch to reverse the door closer motor after it's latched the door. With it seized, it does NEITHER. And the door does exactly what you described.

Use a pair of needle nose pliers and some WD40 and losen that piece up so it pivots properly. It should be sitting as you see it in the picture when released. (It will be stuck well away from that position if it's seized like mine was.) Once you've got it loose spray in some lithium or other grease to keep it loose. (The WD40 will dry out)

If you're careful, you can test it by using a small screwdriver to push the latch the way the "U" catch on the body will. When you get to a certain point, the motor will activate, pull the catch shut and immediately reverse back to it's resting position. If you pull on the inside release handle, the catch should release.

Reverse the above steps to reassemble the door closer, plastic cover, etc. It's a bit fidgety getting the closer back into the door because of the window channel. You'll have to push the channel towards toe outside of the door to get the closer motor past it. Don't push to hard. You don't want to bend it.

Once assembled, your door should close properly.

The dealer tells me they "know" about this problem but won't just fix it because Honda has told them to replace the unit outright. Apparently the replacement part is "improved"..... sounds like a recall that never happened. The door closer motor assembly is over $400 by itself. I'll stick with the fix thanks.

Hope this helps.

Just want to give a shout out to Krazy1 for this post, after same challenges getting the part out of the door everything worked exactly as described. My door has now been functioning perfectly for a week now. The family also says "Thanks"

 

[Coffeemymust]

I am having the same issue on my 2006 Touring, driver side sliding door will not stay shut, it pops open all the time quickly. Then dome light stays on and drains the battery. I have little $$ for the repair... ugh Did the above work with DW40 ro whatever?

 

[John Clark]

Unfortunately, how much money one has for a repair has little to no bearing on whether a fix works or not. For some, the WD-40 or lubricant has helped. If you read the entire thread you'll see that it has worked for some but others have tried with no success and have had to remove the latch and either replace it or clean and lube it, even "adjusting" it with a hammer and punch. If you can't do this yourself then the fix is going to cost some money. Sorry...

 

[calarco68]

during the replacement after cleaning everything. Are both micro switches, Full latch and rachet switch closed at the same time.

 

[swaayze]

Well, we occasionally have this same problem. We always just slide the power switch to off to kill the beeping if the door ajar light is not showing open. Usually after a few days max it will begin working properly again. I guess I need to do the lube thing.

Here's my latest issue though: a Power Sliding Door Release Problem.

(I guess this is closely related and there are so many threads that I don't know which one to add this to, or if I should just start another, but this seems to be the first up on a search)

So we recently had an issue where the door would electrically try to open. It would start slightly then a repetitive clicking noise and nothing. I pulled the panel and finally determined that the release actuator (72663-SHJ-A21 on driver's sliding power door) was suspect (the actuator arm was moving but would then slip and be pulled back up by the spring (3-4 times in quick succession) creating the click-click-click noise). The actuator is very easy to pull - release one cable and unplug the electrical connector, then three screws and it's out. Part is about $50 on the net and $80-100 at local dealers. Replaced and all seems to be well after first few operations. Apparently a tooth had broken on a gear inside causing the arm to slip and be retracted by the spring. I could hear a rattle in the old part that seems to confirm that.

Just thought I'd throw this into the mix.

 

[John Clark]

Yup. Common issue on the doors. Pretty good thread about it here:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-20...10-odyssey/153588-passenger-sliding-door-pop-stick-post1458777.html#post1458777

 

[swaayze]

Oops, missed that one. Briefly thought about taking it apart but it didn't seem to want to open without force. 99% sure I'd have needed a new one anyway - I'm more convinced my broken gear tooth diagnosis is correct after seeing that pic.

Thanks for the link.