[maddawg313]

Unfortunately, how much money one has for a repair has little to no bearing on whether a fix works or not. For some, the WD-40 or lubricant has helped. If you read the entire thread you'll see that it has worked for some but others have tried with no success and have had to remove the latch and either replace it or clean and lube it, even "adjusting" it with a hammer and punch. If you can't do this yourself then the fix is going to cost some money. Sorry...

I'm one of those unlucky ones. Took everything apart, lubed up and everything was moving freely. Left it overnight not spring back. So on it, everything worked great, installed and back to the same issue. Door pops open after about 3 seconds and showing door open on the dash. Now need to order a new unit. Located in Canada and it will cost about $313 to replace. Man I have no luck

 

[codejuggler26]

I just sprayed my 2006 Touring from the outside with WD40 and its working for the first time in weeks! Thank you all. If it doesn't last I know what needs to be done.

 

[mintyvan]

how much WD40 are you spraying? I tried this and I'm not sure if I sprayed enough yet. Also, just to be clear, you're spraying it directly into the rear latch?

 

[ohmslaw]

you spray a lot. You are trying to use the wd40 as a "pressure washer" to dislodge caked on dirt, which is preventing your mechanism from functioning properly. Put some cardboard or something on your garage floor, because the wd40 will drip out of the weep holes on the bottom of the door. I exercised my latch by manually actuating the catch, then releasing it using the door handle, in between sprays.

 

[mintyvan]

Thanks, I'm going to give this another shot.

Is there a certain angle I need to hit or just spray every which way I can? I've tried looking at the pictures posted by others, but it was hard to tell what I was looking at without a reference.

 

[cartfan123]

Decent video of someone who has the latch assembly out of the car loosening the cam pivot so you can see it contacting the micro switch. Most people don't actually take the latch assembly out of the car...they just take it out of the door and work it loose and then put it back in.

 

[swaayze]

Another thanks for this thread.

Just fixed (temporarily I'm sure) ours the wd-40 easy way.

 

[John Clark]

That's great! At least you know it's just a mechanical issue and not an electrical issue. However, do yourself a favor and spray some real lubricant in there now that the WD40 has freed it up. Use any kind of penetrating oil. WD40 is good at removing moisture and dirt but it isn't the greatest lubricant and won't last long.

 

[swaayze]

Thanks. Did spray in some white lithium grease.

Didn't quite process the battery drain discussions earlier in this thread. So....

We have had a dead battery twice in the last few days, the second time even though I shut off the dome light. Does the door being sensed as ajar cause battery drain in and of itself somehow? Had the battery tested today and it is supposedly good (and it's only one year old).

 

[John Clark]

The dead battery, associated with door problems, is due to to one of the switches in the rear latch not getting activated properly when it is supposed to. It causes about a 400mA Draw with the key off. If your door is now working properly then most likely the draw will be gone. If you continue to have problems then you'd need to do some parasitic draw testing.

 

[swaayze]

Great, thanks. Only happened the couple of nights the door wouldn't close properly so I'm optimistic that it's only that.

 

[John Clark]

You're probably safe with that assumption.

 

[arthurhirsch]

I would like to thank this board, and YouTube with the complex of all the sliding door problems.
Was quoted $1,000 with no guarantee of a fix at a Honda dealer.
My problem started with having to assist to close left power door. Would only use right door.
Then had to turn off sliding door switch, to stop continual buzz. After that was a dead battery, bought new one
that I had to jump start every morning. Now time to look for a draw.
Now the rear latch would not close, unless I removed the left under dash fuse fast enough.

The first thing I replaced is the middle roller. One thing I added was two needle noise channel locks, and cut
fuel line not to damage cables. I would pull out as much cable as I could, and clamp it.
Tried the resets, no door movement.

I used this reset, and the rear latch stayed closed, with mine it's the left side. I didn't check for battery drain:

Turn off the switch of sliding door in left side of the steering wheel. Then, take out the fuse of sliding door on the passenger side and start the engine. Turn on the switch of the sliding door in 10 seconds and stop the engine. Turn off again the switch and place back the fuse inside the fuse box and start the engine( it reset back ). Finally, place the sliding door switch on and try open the door. It works and I did it to my Odyssey.

I replaced the rear latch assy. After bench testing the latch actuator and rear latch assy., both motors worked.
Now I want to get this done, think I was going to be checking wires.

Great info. from Krazy1, I wish I had seen xtriggerman's post before I ordered the part (good 255kb pics too).

So new latch assy. works great. Online price $203, dealer $265.
Thank you.
arthurhirsch

 

[Reed]

My LH door is not latching -

here's a slightly different twist to the fuse reset process -
I saw mention of this processes:
Pull fuse #7 (drivers side) for 10s
Power sliding door master to OFF
Key in ignition - OFF
Open both doors
Ignition to ON (electrical power, not engine running)
Power sliding door master to ON
Closed right door using console switch
Closed left door using console switch

I tried it and it caused my LH rear door to not work or respond at all with power sliding door switch ON - as if it were not getting power -

So I tried the process and only pulled fuse 13 - this brought the LH door back on line - the rear latch still not functioning properly -

What was interesting was that with following the process above - just pulling fuse 7, I was able to manually close the door and the rear latch did remain shut and the LH rear door remained "in"

 

[John Clark]

99% chance you have a bad switch in the rear door latch.

 

[ti-ben]

My LH door is not latching -

here's a slightly different twist to the fuse reset process -
I saw mention of this processes:
Pull fuse #7 (drivers side) for 10s
Power sliding door master to OFF
Key in ignition - OFF
Open both doors
Ignition to ON (electrical power, not engine running)
Power sliding door master to ON
Closed right door using console switch
Closed left door using console switch

I tried it and it caused my LH rear door to not work or respond at all with power sliding door switch ON - as if it were not getting power -

So I tried the process and only pulled fuse 13 - this brought the LH door back on line - the rear latch still not functioning properly -

What was interesting was that with following the process above - just pulling fuse 7, I was able to manually close the door and the rear latch did remain shut and the LH rear door remained "in"

I think I have a brand new one in the box laying around (door latch). Let me know if you need one.

Tks

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

 

[franktribe]

First off, thank you for this thread. Because of this thread I was able to work on this issue. I can take the latch assembly in and out with my eyes closed now . After many attempts of repairing the assembly and not getting it to work. I decided to buy a new one online (roughly $200, not bad). I replaced it. And the problem persists, needless to say, I am disappointed. It closes, then releases (as the OP mentioned, same issue) even after replacing with a new assembly. Now, I did take it to a shop before I started working on it to see if they could fix it (obviously they didn't). I wonder if they did something because it looks like the door is slightly out of alignment when closed, it doesn't look quite right compared to the other side. I am wondering if there is something where the latch detects it is too tight or loose? Any suggestions on what to look for?

 

[k9sar]

Having a similar problem with my '07 drivers side door but only when it's cold out. I more often get the popping/sticking symptoms and I'm sure that a good disassembly, cleaning and lube is what I need to do. Fortunately, when I was at a local u-pull-it to get a door lock actuator for my son's car, I stumbled across an '07 odyssey that had been in a front-end collision and no damage to the sliding doors. The passenger side was missing but the driver's slider was intact and already mostly off the vehicle (I guess someone needed some part of the track or something). I pulled the panel off (not a bit gracefully) and proceeded to remove every motor/latch/switch thing I could find. Ten bucks later and I either have the solution to my issues or a practice set to work on. I think I'll clean/lube what I need from the parts I pulled so I can minimize the out-of-service time for the wife's van. Should be just a swap at that point

 

[John Clark]

Popping and sticking is the unlatching actuator which is right about in the center of the door, down low. It's a small black box about 3" x 3".

 

[k9sar]

yep... have that thread bookmarked too. Can never have too much information going into a project.