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In the 99-04 Odyssey forum this has been discussed and it is a wear and tear item.

I believe that someone figured out what to get as replacement rollers (can't remember if it was steel or nylon) from a hardware store instead of buying the whole assembly.
 
On my '07, the roller shafts are smashed down essentially riveting the rollers on. There is no way to install new rollers unless the top portion of the shaft is ground off at which point there is nothing left to retain the new rollers.
 
05 Ody slider rear roller asmbly

Looks like I'm heading for roller replace .. . my rollers are all still in place but both doors are real hard to push/pull by hand and sound like they are really dragging on the rear roller assmbly.
It seemed to me they were always pretty stiff to operate since we owned the car w/ 13K. I always assumed the "idle" cable drive had to be turned by hand - inherent friction. Now at 105K w/ gravel roads daily - dust or mud most of the year.
The inside of the car has seen it's share of dust, I'm wondering what's under all that plastic that needs a cleaning or lube.
My issue: Driver side closes at which point the closing drive sucks the rear edge in obviously way too hard - doesn't sense when to stop ... about 3 seconds and things relax. So now the buzzer is sounding off when in gear. Turn off switch and drive. Interior lights stay off and door feels secure if I get inside and push hard.
No brainer to change roller assmbly first, anybody else been here?

Just called local dealer ... about $57+ each side - guess I'll go shopping ... Thanks for all the knowledge, I'll post my results here when I get to it , Merry Christmas
 
Brief update, just ordered L + R assmblys from South Bay Honda --- www.hondapartscheap.com --- $32.70 ea. side + S+H = $80.34 delivered for both sides.
I am also not real impressed w/ Honda on this one, seems the doors would be engineered to go the miles that Honda is famous for! When I bought the car, my only reservation was indeed the complexity of the sliders, and "I bet those are a problem someday....".
If Honda offered a manual door(LX?) with all the other options found on EX, I would rather have that one. Never had a problem opening my own door. ( my little rant!)
Has been a great car so far otherwise, only other issue so far was power steering, was a fairly inexpensive fix. On my old '89 Voyager, the slider was about the only thing that did not fall apart after 180K. Merry Christmas
 
Not sure if this thread is still alive but my latest : new center rear rollers replaced on my bad door ... old ones were not completely gone but well on their way. They would have needed to be replaced soon. (Honda, are you listening?) The procedure was real simple thanks to you guys with photos and all. The door is smoother but it did not solve my latching issue.

This thread describes like my problem now that the rollers are taken care of:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54192 Titled:2005 Ody LS sliding door latch, last post May '09
My exception is my dash warnig light for door open stays off, buzzer sounds until it is switched to manual mode, door feels and looks latched.
So, I guess I'll head this new direction, hoping not to have spend abundle of $$ to remedy. Took the middle seats out and the interior trim off the door tonight for a look - whew! Amazing what can be designed and manufactured these days.
Ideas out there?

Also, general posting advice, please ... is it better to "revive" the above referenced thread or start a current(new) thread?

thanks in advance, Gerry
 
Type of Masking Tape

Hi, I think this os the problem I am having with my 2007 EXL. when removing the track cover, does one need to use the blue painter's tape, or just the plain old off white tape. Also, Once you remove the track cover, can one obviously see whether or not the roller assembly needs to be replaced?

Thanks,
 
You can see the rollers well enough with a good small flashlight and the door in manual, so you can move it back and forth to look from both ends. my rollers had most of the outside diameter but were quite worn on the inside diameter. I couldn't really see the play, but they were dragging hard enough to want to change them, I'd like to drive the car for a few more years at least.
Unfortunately, my latching problem remains unsolved, hope to get around to trying the info in the above referenced thread next few days.
I like the blue tape, actually hung a 10 page or so newspaper section with some. Thanks to the guys above this was a fairly simple deal.
 
My tips for performing this procedure

Thanks to the OP and all who contributed here I'm another satisfied customer.

Passenger side sliding door on our 05 was completely inoperative in manual mode. I could see one of the nylon rollers was completely missing. Ordered the part and installed it yesterday.

Just wanted to add a few points to the great description on the procedure up top.

1) To dislodge the connector at the front of the tail lamp housing, pull it at a 30 degree angle (back and away) from the car since its aligned on this angle. Pulling straight back is futile!

2) Don't skimp on the masking tape! You might even think you don't need it, but you do. All the finagling trying to get the hinge in and out of the track and putting the wires on and off demands this. I didn't have any masking tape so I used duct tape.

3) Don't use "dry erase" marker! Mine rubbed off in all the working of the hinge. No worries, if you lose markings just try to center the hinge holes on the bolts while they're just barely loose and then close the door manually and watch how the door latch hits the striker, it should be centered top to bottom. Also note of the door is to far rear (rubs as it hits the latch) or too far forward (difficult to open with handle.) To adjust simply open, support door with knee while loosening bolts, then adjust and carefully re-tighten. Also make sure the hinge rollers are square in the track (not tilted.)

4) Use a jack with wheels (most if not all have these) so the door can be moved out of the way while working with the cables. Before pushing it be sure to pull the handle to disengage the latch holding it in the open position! I hadn't realized this and ended up pushing the door hard thinking it was just "stuck" and this dislodged the top roller off the hinge and the entire door began falling off the car. Luckily I managed to catch it and yell for my wife to come and help me get it back on. I was completely unable to re-attach the rear cable until I moved the door out of the way so I could get better leverage.

5) The pin on the hinge may not look like it will fit back thru the hole after you get the clamp washer off but it does. Use a socket below and just whack it!

6) After I got it all back together the door wouldn't close (or open) using the power mode. I ended up having to perform the reset procedure listed here.

Now that I can tell how smoothly the door should work after having done the repair, I can tell my drivers side door is also on the verge of needing this repair. I wish I had realized how far gone it was so I could have just ordered both parts and saved on the shipping cost! Still cheaper than taking it to the stealership. :D
 
Has onyone tried removing the pin with the hinge atached to the door, I only got the roller side of the hinge , but not the door side of the hinge, has anyone tried removing the clip and driving the pin out without undoing the 16mm bolts attaching the hinge to the door? I thought it might make getting the door aligned back easier.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
pec0054 said:
Has onyone tried removing the pin with the hinge attached to the door, I only got the roller side of the hinge , but not the door side of the hinge, has anyone tried removing the clip and driving the pin out without undoing the 16mm bolts attaching the hinge to the door? I thought it might make getting the door aligned back easier.

The problem will be whacking the daylights out of the pin while still attached to your nice shiny painted van. It is easier to just mark the location with a felt pen / remove a couple of bolts.
Plus what will happen to the alignment of the hinge once you start pounding it? I bet it will move...
 
GreyGhost said:
The problem will be whacking the daylights out of the pin while still attached to your nice shiny painted van. It is easier to just mark the location with a felt pen / remove a couple of bolts.
Plus what will happen to the alignment of the hinge once you start pounding it? I bet it will move...
Great points, must be my lazy side coming out.
 
Has anyone found it necessary to replace the rail that these rollers ride on?

I bought a used 05 Odyssey 8 months ago that from the start has made a grinding sound when opening/closing the doors and the doors are difficult to open/close in manual mode. Lithium helped the one side a bit (little quieter/easier) but not the other (worse) side. Inspecting things I see that there a groove has been worn in the rail...the chrome finish has been worn off the rail and it is starting to wear beyond that.

Does that matter at all...or is it pretty inconsequential to the operation/noise if the rollers are good?
 
2007 sliding door roller replacement

thanks to everyone who had suggestions on how to do this. just finished the job on my 2007 and learned a few things. of the two rollers, one was missing, looks like it just disinigrated. part was about 50 (souther ca. ) and dealer wanted 300 so thats a no brainer for me. i did remove door but now not sure why that is even necessary. guess i will find out when the other side goes. (five kids and lots of friends so it wont be long) hardest part of the process was attaching the cables to the new part. one smart person (forgot his name) said he used a vice grips and for me that was the ticket. tried needle nose and klines but just couldnt get the cable to reach. dreaded taking apart the inside and tried the vice grips and worked perfectly. ask for help as it is near impossible to do without another arm. my daughter worked well and i pulled the cables together while she fed it into the new roller. after that i cleaned and lubed the track. put everything back together and ugh!!!!!!! door would close manually but not with the button. door was not aligned properly. took a seat inside the backseat and noticed why it wouldnt close, door had sagged a little. loosened up the door and raised it slightly then tightened it again and perfection!!! again thanks for the help men,
 
Thanks

Thanks. Just completed a drivers side replacement. Process works like a charm.

But, as the Original Poster (OP) said, it's helpful to have a second pair of hands to help with removing/reseating the cable ends.
I did it myself and buggered up the cable coating somewhat, near the ends. I added a little grease, to cover the scraped coating.
 
Autocrosser said:
On my '07, the roller shafts are smashed down essentially riveting the rollers on. There is no way to install new rollers unless the top portion of the shaft is ground off at which point there is nothing left to retain the new rollers.
I made the fix by using a thin cut off wheel on a dremel type tool. I put a slice across the little washer that is peaned over the plastic roller, alowing you to pull the washer apart and off the axel. I made a pair of steel rollers on a lathe and sliped them onto the axles and put a new washer over then and a simple E clip in the original washer groove location to retain them. Works great. My drivers side will get taken apart and fixed soon as a preventative measure. I have since spec-ed out stainless steel sheilded roller bearings to work in place of the plastic crap and have them on hand for the job. I will post it all here with pictures. It comes down to about $15 per door at the most.
 
Excellent Instructions - A few things I'd change

1. I'd liberally tape up everything first. 3" of tape below the cover plate. 1" at the top and bottom of the plate itself, 1" above it.

2. The nut sizes were different for me. I thought perhaps I had the wrong car.

3. When you remove the runner from the door, I'd tape the thing into a big tape ball. Those cables are so tough to get on and off, it'll fall several times and perhaps put some scratches on the car.

4. There's got to be a trick to getting those cable barrels in. I ended up grabbing the cable with needle nose pliers. Holding the bracket as close to the van as possible to give me the most cable and holding the cable about 1/4" above the barrel rotating it around towards the opening while using a finger to hold the bottom of the barrel in the cylinder opening. Still it was quite tough. A 2nd pair of hands would help.

The advice about marking the bracket worked great. I'd almost use paint to make the outline even more distinct. You almost need to shove the pen against it to make sure you can see exactly where it was.

I'm disappointed the running lasted only two years.
 
I just changed out the rollers on mine a few days ago as they were gone completely and riding on the metal shafts. As others have done, I just replaced the nylon rollers (leaving the bracket connected to the wires) and e-clips for under $2.00.

One problem I had was trying to remove the panel. I was banging away on it trying to get it to slide to the rear, but it turns out it slides to the front to release! After that it was smooth sailing.

Oh yes, don't lean against the door and knock it off the jack while doing the work. Oops, that was a tough one with no help :eek:
 
2004 Odyssey....I had the grinding, skipping on my driver's side sliding door. Passenger side was starting to do the same thing. Took it to the local dealer....$500 to fix both.

Read various threads on here....went to Lowes, bought the nylon rollers and e clips....fixed both doors this morning in about an hour for less than $10.
 
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