I still don't understand your story.

- Stalling has nothing to do with AC Relay.

- What were the symptoms: car stalled suddenly?
Why the AC Realy issue came up?

BTW, the AC relay itself is cheap, about $10-20.
The dealer probably referred to the AC Clutch Magnetic Switch.

 

I'm sorry, I probably tried to skip too much detail. I don't have a repair bill in front of me, just the "dumbed down for a female" version of what is broken on your pretty-little-car from the service guy on the phone.

Sequence of mechanical issues:

1) Driving home from NC to OH and the weather starts getting warm (for a change!) and we notice that the AC does not seem to be cooling much. Drive during the afternoon with the windows open and plan on how to get to the dealer the next day to have him take a look at it.

2) Stop for dinner. Come out and start the car. It starts fine, but within 2 minutes it makes a 5-sec high pitched squeal. It sounded to me like a belt coming off its track. I go to pop the front hood and then the sound repeats a minute later. Then it goes on and off 2-3 times before I manage to turn the car off.

3) During that minute or so when the noise started happening repeatedly, there is a smell and a small amount of smoke that comes from beneath the hood.

So I turned the car off. The service guy told me that "one cell" of the battery is dead ("I have never seen one so dead") but not to worry because a battery is a warranty part for 3 years, unlimited miles. But they are checking the electrical system to see if there was a reason the battery died. I get a call a half hour later saying that the "AC relay switch failed open". Those were his exact words, so I'm not sure exactly what part he is referring to and, of course, cannot get him on the phone right now. He said that the relay switch is only warrantied for up to 36,000 miles and I'm past that.

He says that the tech has been working on figuring out the problem for the past 2 hours, so maybe the high cost is the time and not the part. Although me telling them that this started with the AC not working should have been a bit of a clue, no?

Does that help?
Msred

 

Ah ha,

Believe it or not, I had the exact same 2 issues while travelling to South Carolina, N Carolina last year!

1. My battery died at 37-month-old and 37K miles interval, so was out of warranty.
No big deal, got a brand new battery from Autozone and all is good.
Stay away from Honda battery.
The Autozone battery has warranty too and Autozone has a large network in the US. I paid $90 for the Autozone battery.

2. The proper word is "AC Clutch Switch", basically a switch the activates the AC compressor.

38900-RGM-A01...CLUTCH SET....$130 online
38924-RGL-A01...STATOR SET....$58 online

I posted my experience here. Basically paid $300 (total was $600 for the whole thing, but goodwill paid 50% of the cost, so it is worth calling Honda HQ and complain):
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/113469-air-has-stopped-blowing-cold.html

PS: Some people change these 2 parts with AC compressor still attached to the van (this way one does not have to evacuate R134a and recharge it) but it is very difficult to do it that way.

 

"Msred"

I had almost similar problems with my 09 Ody Exl. But luckily battery gone dead at my home. Then took it to Honda dealer after jump starting. They also found AC relay was engaged always. They replaced and AC relay and broke my Security system. When I took it again to complaint that, they said it was nothing to do with battery or AC problem. So I had to pay again for hood latch replacement.

It happened during winter, so I didn't care to check did AC blew cool air or not. Now Apr11 on hot day I found AC didn't blew cool air. But fans or on and working. I didn't have any problem with heat.

Can I know what did you do to fix your AC? PS anybody else can also suggest ?

Thanks...

 

First of all, let me say that I feel for you and what happened. I have a wife and three kids, and I surely wouldn't want the same thing to happen to them.

Don't beat yourself up over what happened. It literally could have happened to anybody. Statistically, Odysseys are statistically very reliable compared to the competition, even with all of the complaining that goes on here sometimes. Warranties, AAA, and car insurance are only good after the fact, and don't really prevent anything. You did your due diligence, and the car let you down. The important thing is now you and your family are safe.

As far as the repair, I think you have a very strong case to convince Honda to cover the entire repair and tow. Call the customer relations 800 number in the back of the owner's manual and tell the story exactly as you did here. Honda has been known to cover repairs under "goodwill" for vehicles much further out of warranty than you are.

Don't give up on the Odyssey, there are many many people here and not on here that have years of trouble free service.

I truly hope that's the last time you have trouble, especially out in the middle of no where like that.

One other thing, any dealer can service your Odyssey dealing with warranty issues. It doesn't have to be the one you bought it from. If you feel like they are jerking you around, have it towed to a different one. I would also push for a loaner or rental from the dealer until yours is repaired. Use the fact that you bought the car new from them, and threaten them with the loss of your, your family's, your friend's, your neighbor's, and anyone that will listen to you('s) future business. Also mention in passing when you'll have the TV crews at their doorstep asking them to comment on your story, and how you'll have to escort them through the line of protesters out front that you brought with you that day. Don't be afraid to go "ape-****" on them.


Good luck!

 

As far as the repair, I think you have a very strong case to convince Honda to cover the entire repair and tow. Call the customer relations 800 number in the back of the owner's manual and tell the story exactly as you did here. Honda has been known to cover repairs under "goodwill" for vehicles much further out of warranty than you are.

This I agree with.

Also mention in passing when you'll have the TV crews at their doorstep asking them to comment on your story, and how you'll have to escort them through the line of protesters out front that you brought with you that day. Don't be afraid to go "ape-****" on them.

Yes, call the news and bitch and complain because they asked you to pay for a repair on a vehicle that is out of warranty. :rollingeyes: Now that is just ridiculous.

 

Just realized that you posted this over two weeks ago.

I hope you've had this issue solved by now!

 

Unlike the op I lost my battery overnight at home. Charged it up with my battery charger and drove to dealer. Thought it was a bad battery but turned out to be ac relay switch. Hope the battery keeps on trucking cause I know batteries don't like being drained too many times. I'm thinking of just replacing it with a high end battery since we use the electronics on the van like crazy. So many things plugged in with my four kids. We beat on this van!

 

The Sears DieHard Platinum would be a great battery for your service.

 

Ok, my van has not been very reliable and I'm fixing to (southern for about to) go on a road trip. Where is the relay located? I may just bring one with me. too dang hot to not have AC.

oh and I replaced the ac clutch w/o disconnecting the compressor, search on it if you need to replace stator and clutch.

 

...Where is the relay located? I may just bring one with me; too dang hot to not have AC.

Dirkdaddy,

Stand in front of engine and look at passenger side, there is a plastic fuse box. Open it and you will see whole bunch of relays and diagrams.

There are 3 "black-color" relays.

I referenced the PN in your post on Ac Clutch replacement, post #45:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/93901-05-compressor-clutch-troubleshooting-3.html

PN is PN 39794-SDA-A03.....about $4.50 at Honda dealer..
I keep a spare AC relay in my glovebox for long trip.

Worst case scenario on long trip w/o spare AC relay, just jump the 2 large terminals to activate the AC clutch but remove the jumper wire once you stop somewhere. But do this only if you are very desperate.

 

We had a sudden lack of cooling on our '06 and I tried an old trick, substituting one of the cooling fan relays for the compressor clutch relay and got immediate cooling. On the road, one could make such a swap for some cool air until a dealer could be reached. Of course, carrying an extra relay would be a good idea. Interestingly, the original relay was made in the U.S.A and the replacement, from a Honda dealer, was madein Vietnam. I guess we can't make stuff anymore. Too bad!

 

Should have come here first! 07 EX here. I was having parasitic battery drain, but initially thought it was a bad battery. My Optima Yellowtop died at 36 mos, and it was replaced by a honda battery. The poor reputation of honda battery made me just toss it for a new battery (17 months old), but the new battery lost charge within a day! I realized there was something else amiss, and this thread pointed me in the right direction.

I bought 3 of these relays, for $17 at the dealer, replaced all 3 in the engine compartment fusebox this morning. So far about 9 hours with the vehicle off, and battery is still at full charge. I believe there is something wrong with this part, and I'll be ordering a couple of spares. (Dealer wouldn't sell me more than 3)

 

For those reading this thread, a relay can fail in 2 ways:

- Bad relay: no AC at all

- Relay stuck "on": Car AC runs all the time regardless of setting!
This may be the reason why the Stator fails prematurely.

 

For whatever it's worth...

Replacing the relay solved my battery drain problems...

Then I started having intermittent starting problems that were not related to the battery. Tested battery several times, it was fine. Engine would not even try to turn over. I had it towed to the dealership, where it proceeded to have no problem starting. They tested it it over the course of a day and couldn't find any problem. About a month later, the problem recurred. Feeling that these symptoms were suspicious for an intermittently failing relay, i took out my Service Manual, and looked at the starter relay under the driver's side fuse/relay box. Guess what!

The starter relay is the exact same model relay that is used for the AC relay. I had replaced all the relays in the under the hood box, convinced that these relays are defective, only to find that there are four more of them under the driver's side box.

Well I replaced the starter relay with my spare part, and so far no more starting issues. I can't be 100% sure that is the problem, but I am convinced that these relays are defective. Gonna order another batch of these relays to replace the rest of the old ones in the driver's side fuse/relay box.

 

2009 Touring model with 55 K miles, the symptons similar to ones described:

Battery drained overnight
High pitch noise from engine right side, comes and goes
White smoke from area near AC compressor

Replaced the AC Clutch relay for $5.95 at dealer (bought 2 just in case), and problem solved. Thank you guys for sharing your learnings.

 

I recently ran into similar problems on my Odyssey 09' EX-L.
Battery drains overnight.
AC appears not working (I would turn on the fan to max, but no air is circulating inside the car, opening up the hood I see some pipes to the AC is iced up.)

I will buy the relays and replace them to see if it helps.

One other observation that I would add is that there is a switch to control how the interior lights work. (always on, door or always off). Obviously, if I leave the light switch always on, I will drain the battery, but even with the door setting and all doors closed the battery still drains. However, with the switch at always off, the battery doesn't drain anymore. So I'm thinking the switch goes to a master relay which will stop the power to the AC even when the AC-relay is stuck on. Does it make sense?

 

Do any of these relays control interior functions like the NAV, Power Doors, Tailgate, Keyless entry? I am having problems with all of them after a dead battery and am wondering if the relays are the problem.

 

Article about Odyssey

"because this relay failure—and the resulting dead battery—may take place very randomly. Suppose the relay won’t fail at the shop. In that case, several sources recommended explaining the condition to the customer. Explain that replacing the compressor clutch relay is a worthwhile gamble and a high-percentage fix. "

"this relay may stick on at any time, energizing the compressor clutch. Remember that the only thing this cantankerous relay controls is the compressor clutch; it has nothing to do with the condenser fans. Since the driver didn’t turn on the air conditioner with the dashboard controls, the condenser fans don’t run. So, the compressor is running constantly and the condenser isn’t getting its required airflow. "

"high-side refrigerant pressure skyrockets. Eventually the excessive pressure blows open a relief valve located on the tail end of the compressor. When this relief valve vents the high side of the system, some strange symptoms occur. First, the driver may hear the valve blow open but have difficulty explaining the sound to you. Second, he may smell something abnormal; this may be refrigerant and oil hitting the hot exhaust manifold and engine. Third, the escaping refrigerant and oil could cause a brief release of smoke from under the hood. Once again, the customer may cite one or more of these symptoms outside the normal air conditioning season. "

"The clutch should disengage instantly whenever your helper shuts off the air conditioner. If the compressor clutch remains engaged, the likely culprit is the clutch relay."

"Finally, watch for any traces of oil or dye residue on or around that pressure relief valve on the tail end of the compressor. "

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092014_4.pdf

 

Article about Odyssey blown AC relay.

"First of all, this compressor clutch relay is usually inside an underhood fuse/relay box of some kind.
Second, this relay failure can cause a variety of symptoms, foremost of which is a dead battery. "

"Another set of symptoms occur on the refrigeration side of a Honda’s a/c system."

"because this relay failure—and the resulting dead battery—may take place very randomly. Suppose the relay won’t fail at the shop. In that case, several sources recommended explaining the condition to the customer. Explain that replacing the compressor clutch relay is a worthwhile gamble and a high-percentage fix. "

"this relay may stick on at any time, energizing the compressor clutch. Remember that the only thing this cantankerous relay controls is the compressor clutch; it has nothing to do with the condenser fans. Since the driver didn’t turn on the air conditioner with the dashboard controls, the condenser fans don’t run. So, the compressor is running constantly and the condenser isn’t getting its required airflow. "

"high-side refrigerant pressure skyrockets. Eventually the excessive pressure blows open a relief valve located on the tail end of the compressor. When this relief valve vents the high side of the system, some strange symptoms occur. First, the driver may hear the valve blow open but have difficulty explaining the sound to you. Second, he may smell something abnormal; this may be refrigerant and oil hitting the hot exhaust manifold and engine. Third, the escaping refrigerant and oil could cause a brief release of smoke from under the hood. Once again, the customer may cite one or more of these symptoms outside the normal air conditioning season. "

what to look for
"The clutch should disengage instantly whenever your helper shuts off the air conditioner. If the compressor clutch remains engaged, the likely culprit is the clutch relay."

"Finally, watch for any traces of oil or dye residue on or around that pressure relief valve on the tail end of the compressor. "

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092014_4.pdf

 

I just replaced my AC compressor, which had been leaking confirmed with dye adn the fact we had topped it up a few times and got it running for a while. After replacement it held vacuum great and I filled with 134a like I have before, have tools. But the compressor never kicked on. I suspected a bad wire crimp, the aftermarket compressor didn't have honda plug, but I removed the relay and tested the clutch it worked when jumped. Tested relay and it would make noise but no connection.

Question: I read about these falures...has anyone tried a different relay rigged into the system? I've wired things with relays from scratch so I know how to do it, but this AC seems about the same as one from say...a GM vehicle which has a more reliable relay. A Escalade relay for AC is $20, would have to wired in with plugs and possibly hang outside the fuse cover, but wouldn't stick on like the OEM version stranding you.

 

Use the upgraded relay as noted in this Acura forum posting.

DIY- A/C Compressor CLUTCH RELAY Upgrade - AcuraZine Community

 

Thank you buddy!!!!

I just got a Advance Auto replacement for about $6 but I'll have to note to go by Honda and get an improved one. It lasted like nearly 10 years in Texas where we use the AC a little bit

 

I need some clarification. I was just quoted $1600 to repair my AC issue in my 07 Odyssey. It all started when the AC suddenly quit working. It would then intermittently work. I suspected electrical since it happened suddenly, had no rhyme or reason as to why it would come on and off, and when it was on, blew very cold. I tried to locate the relay but could not quickly and and really didn’t have time to find it. So, I took it to the shop and they found the defective relay and replaced it…$12 out the door. Very nice news to hear. Then, one morning, shortly after, we wake up and the battery is dead. No problem. I figured one of the kids left the lights on. We jumped it and drove it around. Problem solved. Well, it died again…actually twice more. So I replaced the battery. (still not seeing any relation to these problems) Immediately after replacing the battery the AC problems start again. This time it only comes on when you start the car after it has been off for a long period of time. But it only runs for maybe 5 minutes. Took it back to the shop and they are saying they need to replace the compressor (and all related parts to ensure warranty) drain, flush, and recharge the system. Their diagnosis is that the compressor is faulty causing the relay to shut off and that replacing the relay will not solve the problem. I put a new relay in myself and it changed nothing. Now it won’t come on at all. Can the faulty relay damage the compressor, or at least, wear out the clutch so it will not engage? All my symptoms seem to be spot on to the issue in this thread. I don’t want to change out the compressor and all the additional costs that that entails if I can do something else that addresses this specific issue. So maybe changing out the entire AC system will fix the problem, but so will buying a new Odyssey. Not really the most cost effective repair option.

 

Couple things...

1. The updated relay (by Mitsuba) will change nothing, It only masks the real problem which is the compressor.
Make sure you replace the correct relay.
In the thread below, see post #37, and pay attention to relay labeled: "AC Stator/Clutch Relay".

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-20...ssey/86959-loud-noise-compressed-air-coming-vicinity-under-ac-compressor-3.html

2. Now, once you replace the correct relay and the problem is still there, then replace the Denso compressor.
No need to flush the system, mechanics say that all the time but no need if the compressor didn't grenade itself ("black death"). So if the compressor is on its last legs, all you need is:
- Evacuate R134a
- Replace the compressor, Denso is $250. Look for the DIY I wrote a while back.
- If you haven't done the timing belt yet, then it is time to do that too b/c the serpentine has to come off for the compressor job. I'd replace the serp belt and its pulleys.

 

Couple things...
1. The updated relay (by Mitsuba) will change nothing, It only masks the real problem which is the compressor.
Make sure you replace the correct relay.

??? First you say the updated relay (by Mitsuba) will change nothing??? Irsmun only said he replaced the relay, didn't say he replaced with Mitsuba. Then you tell him to replace the correct relay????? Twice???

2. Now, once you replace the correct relay and the problem is still there

The post about the Mitsuba relay was directed at Dirkdaddy but not sure what issue you have with telling members to use the updated Mitsuba AC relay considering that Honda is now using it in all new Honda's. Twice you told him to replace the relay, but the Mitsuba will change nothing??

 

Hi cnn, thank you for the info. I have replaced the correct relay. The first time seemed to have fixed the problem but it reoccurred. This last time changing the relay made no difference. I was wondering if that means the compressor has to be changed out. When I engage the AC I hear the click and the engine rpm's change but I cannot tell if the clutch is engaging. Its all so crammed in there. The serpentine belt was recently replaced.

All in all I am just trying to get sound repair advice. As I stated, I am certain my mechanic is not familiar with this Honda issue. I can get the compressor, front and rear expansion valves, desiccant, and orings for $200 at rock auto (part #9644786)

 

@irsmun,
- The AC Clutch is easy to see, get a flash light and shine down there.
- Now turn on the AC, if you see the clutch engage then it is good. Likely not given the symptoms you mentioned.
- Don't buy no-name compressor from rockauto, most of them are Chinese brands, which may or may not be good. The Denso, although not perfect, is a good brand.

- I wrote all the detail in the thread below. The Denso compressor is about $250. Get the O-rings from Honda dealer. No need for valves, desiccant etc.
Note: LX ---> no need to remove the belt tensioner. EX ---> remove the belt tensioner in order to get the compressor out through the wheel well.

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-20...-2005-2010-odyssey/173122-diy-2007-honda-odyssey-ac-compressor-replacement.html


Info on relay, incl. diagram is mentioned in this long thread:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/93901-05-compressor-clutch-troubleshooting.html

----

@alftoy,

- The Mitsuba relay has been used in Subarus for years and years. Honda uses Omron. Recently, there were a few cases of AC relay stuck ON all the time causing battery discharge and loss of R134a through the relief valve that is built on top of the AC compressor. The Mitsuba relay has its own problems, I posted the photos in forum.

- Given irsmun's issues, the Mitsuba will not change anything b/c the Mitsuba relay was used to avoid the "AC On all the time" issues, not "AC off".

You need to spend more time reading this complex HVAC topic, from relay diagram, Omron vs Mitsuba, Denso vs other brands. AC system is one of the most complex systems to trouble-shoot, even for the pros.

 

@irsmun,
@alftoy, The Mitsuba relay has been used in Subarus for years and years. Honda uses Omron. Recently, there were a few cases of AC relay stuck ON all the time causing battery discharge and loss of R134a through the relief valve that is built on top of the AC compressor. The Mitsuba relay has its own problems, I posted the photos in forum.
You need to spend more time reading this complex HVAC topic, from relay diagram, Omron vs Mitsuba, Denso vs other brands. AC system is one of the most complex systems to trouble-shoot, even for the pros.

cnn, your contributions appreciated for diy re:ac clutch/compressor issues, but don't know what Subaru has to do with Honda Odyssey, you say its basically the same relay with 4 prongs, hmm, sort of like saying the Subaru has 4 wheels like the Odyssey, did you measure the resistance of the Subaru relay, and or the Honda relay. I tested the Omron relay at 120ohm made specifically for Honda, standard Omron relay is 180ohm, tested my Mitsuba relay at 150ohm. The Omron relay also has known problem with moisture getting in to it. Also I have not noted any Honda's with the Mitsuba relay having problems with the AC clutch/compressor if it was installed before the clutch/compressor was compromised from the Omron relay sticking. I attached the AC relay TSB for Acura RDX. I replaced my 07 Ody AC relay with the Mitsuba because I'm not interested in going down that slippery clutch/compressor slope.

More info here from civicinfo:

http://www.civinfo.com/wiki/index.php?title=Climate_Control

 

Well I don't think the clutch is engaging any longer. Obviously the Omron relay must have froze in the on position and killed my battery. It was replaced with an unbranded replacement. That's when a different set of circumstances happened- it would come on for about 5 minutes and then not again until you left the car off for a few hours. Of course now it doesn't do anything.

So I need a compressor but should I get the updated relay as well?

 

Well I don't think the clutch is engaging any longer. Obviously the Omron relay must have froze in the on position and killed my battery. It was replaced with an unbranded replacement. That's when a different set of circumstances happened- it would come on for about 5 minutes and then not again until you left the car off for a few hours. Of course now it doesn't do anything.
So I need a compressor but should I get the updated relay as well?

Relay not going to help now, maybe after replacing the compressor and getting ac operational again, yes I would upgrade the relay.