[smufguy]

UPDATE: 10/13/2019

Since the above install of the catch can I have driven approximately 4350 miles in 2 months as I average around 27,000 miles a year. The vehicle had approximately 23600 miles on the ODO at the time of install.
I emptied the catch can yesterday afternoon and the residue inside was around 3 tablespoons (1.5 fl-oz). I cannot attest to it being normal or abnormal.


<< Click to enlarge >>

 

[smufguy]

The oil catch can I used was a PQY Compact Baffled 2-port catch can (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HBYZ5B6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
I advocate this type as it has a 3/8" port for 3/8" hose, which is the same size that OEM PCV hose. Moreover, the baffled can also has a 50 Micron screen to filter in only vapors and not those laiden with heavy particles. This design used to be on cans that cost $100+ just few years ago, but thanks to China, now we get them for $15 on Amazon. This design (the one I provided a link to) is the same design that Mishimoto uses on their compact catch cans (MMBCC-CBTWO) and cost $120.

<< Click on image to enlarge >>

You can also get a can that has a petcock on the bottom for easy draining >> https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07KK81KMG/ref=twister_B07HHC8SMM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. However, due to inadequate room in the engine bay, I opted to go with the basic can and drain it on every oil change. Ensure to lightly lube the rubber gasket on the catch can every time you perform an inspection and screw it back on. If the filter gets real dirty, remove it from the can and use something like a carburetor or fuel injector spray cleaner, to 'blow out' the muck from inside out.


CAUTION: stay away from catch cans that DO NOT have a filter and show a 'baffle' on the ceiling of the housing that has the ports (like below). These, that do not have a filter, allow most of the vapors back into the intake tract. Been there, done that, so take my advice.


<< Click on image to enlarge >>

 

[smufguy]

@Raptor88 , below are my responses

1. I see that the catch can you selected is a copy of the big "M" catch can. It looks like it has plastic fittings that the hoses connect to. Are those plastic fittings durable?
- the description is incorrect for the barbs on Amazon. The ports/barbs are actually machined cast aluminum. Though they are light weight, they do their job. What I recommend is using Teflon tape on the threads when installing the ports into the can.

2. Did you just remove the end of the existing hose that connects to the center of the intake manifold and connect it to the catch can input?
- Correct. The hose end that goes into the intake manifold went into the 'IN' port on the can. The valve cover end remained untouched.

3. Is the internal brass filter screwed on which allows removal for cleaning?
- Yup. It is screwed on and you use an adjustable wrench to unscrew and screw it back on. No teflon is needed on the threads and just finger tighten it and a very gentle snug on the brass filter.

4. Do you have to unmount your catch can to unscrew the can to empty it?
- Yup. I snip the two zip ties, empty the can and install it using the zipties. You can get the ones with the valve (petcock) on the bottom, but I was not able to find a decent location in the engine bay to mount the can and still have the ability to drain from the bottom.

5. Is your dealer OK with the installation of the catch can? No voiding of warranty issues?
- I do not take any of my vehicles to the dealer and all service is performed by me or my trusted shop. All existing TSBs and Recalls were done prior to the can install. Should I need to go the dealership, I would just remove the can prior. It should take you about 5 mins from opening the hood, removing the can, and closing the hood. Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act protects customers against any aftermarket add on, that has not been the 'cause' of a warranted repair. Meaning, automakers cannot void your warranty, just because you installed an equipment that was not factory approved. However, many including myself, do not want to part take in that educational exercise. If I was you, I would remove it and then take it to the dealer.

 

[smufguy]

UPDATE: 12/27/2019 - captured 1.7fl-oz of blowby.

 

[smufguy]

You are welcome. I am still baffled how on my G5 Odyssey, I get this and on my G1 Ridgeline (2010), I get very little. Granted that my Ridgeline is not fitted with a DI J35, I am still confused.
Either way, the injector spray in these motors seem to 'wash' the back of the valves, but I still wonder how the piston domes and the face of the valves would look with this much blow-by. Maybe one can look inside the engine at around 100K, or when the spark plugs are due to see how the valvetrain and the combustion chamber looks like.

 

[smufguy]

@Raptor88 , below are my responses

2. Did you just remove the end of the existing hose that connects to the center of the intake manifold and connect it to the catch can input?
- Correct. The hose end that goes into the intake manifold went into the 'IN' port on the can. The valve cover end remained untouched.

It just dawned on me that I misspoke here. The hose that comes from the center of the intake manifold actually goes into the OUT port of the can. The hose from the valve cover goes into the IN port of the can.
My apologies.

My instructions in post #1 is accurate.

 

[smufguy]

If this thing is necessary then why doesnt honda install it?

They did on certain model year Civics and it was integrated into the upper portion of the valve cover. as OF mentioned, it has to do with integration and maintenance. When engine packaging is highly sought after these days, adding a separate system to perform just one thing, is costly as required retooling, production, and stocking costs $$$. In retrospect, the lack of a PCV catch can also works in the favor of the headlership service centers as it is complicated and expensive to change fuel injectors and address clogged valves. Similar to how the 9-spd and 10-spd Honda transmissions are a PITA to change fluids on and require a visit to the dealership and costs about $200+ to get the ATF changed out. Insane!
Also, the J-series is an engine mated to a large platform vehicle primarily geared towards the Western hemisphere and is not considered as a 'global' architecture. Thus any R&D into these engines, is very limited.

 

[smufguy]

UPDATE: 06-2-2020 ODO: 42,306mi

Changed the oil today and took out around 5.25qts of used oil. Had about the same 1.7fl-oz of blowby. This time around, the residue was much darker and thicker than before.
In my original post, I did not add images of how it looked with the engine cover in place, so I attached one.

I recommend that once the catch can is open, clean the screen and ensure it is tight/secure, along with the baffling and its support rod. Mine baffling ring and supporting rod was a tad loose.

 

[smufguy]

Does you catch can have a heater in it? They were quite popular with VW TDI owners as blowby was a serious problem in those engines. They could freeze up in the winter time and blow things apart. I never had it happen to me, but I did check it periodically during the winter time.

I have heard that on the Ridgeline Forum as well; the freezing thing. I have not and I use the braided oil line hoses, which are usually what you find from the factory in your vehicle. The freezing in the winter was related to the older style PCV cans that had the exterior ball valve. I believe those were pre OBD-1 engines.

I live in central NJ and have had no issues or concerns with freezing. I have the same setup in my 2010 Ridgeline as well. Same can and same hoses.

 

[smufguy]

For those who may want to see what the back of the valves of a 4 year old vehicle/engine may look like, here ya go.

This is from a 2017 Pilot that was being serviced for faulty injectors. Another reason why a catch can may help.

Pictures are not mine and off Piloteers.org community.

for comparison, below is a the port injected J35 with over 220K miles (when the picture was taken) in my Ridgeline

 

[smufguy]

Had to do a B1 service (75,086mi) couple of days ago and for the previous two oil changes, I made it a point not to open up the catch can, just to see the limit on not servicing these. Well, I found out that it is about 3-oil changes.

Below is the catch can with fluid

Here is a video of me dumping it out >> Catch Can Emptying.

Again, nothing much of a story to tell here, but you guys see what gets trapped.

 

[smufguy]

Glad it helped. Until the day comes for me to pull the intake plenum and inspect the back of the valves, this catch can will just be a piece of add-on that I cannot substantially prove its benefits.

1. My oil change is done by me when the MM prompts me to. I change the oil anytime between 10% to 0%.

2. The catch can sits on the plastic cover of the ECU and is secured to the brakes lines off the ABS modulator to keep it from moving around. I resorted to this as I could not find a decent place to secure it on the top radiator support next to the passenger side headlight that also kept the PCV hoses rather straight. On my G1 Ridgeline, I had enough room to secure it to the top radiator support and servicing it easy. .

 

[smufguy]

On the topic of zip tie to the ABS modulator, does the zip tie not rub through the metal? Or are you concerned that sitting on the plastic ECU cover to eventually break it from the vibration of the vehicle?

Thank you.

Primary objective of the zipties is to secure the catchcan in an area that is easily serviceable. I use two small zipties and I am not concerned about them being broken from vibration. Both the ECU module & cover and the ABS module are bolted to the chassis via hard mounting format - thus they do not move independent of each other. There is no concern of the zip ties rubbing through the brake lines as there is no torque applied to the lines by the zipties.

If you have any other question, let me know.

 

[smufguy]

Here is my '24 from the most recent B12 service. More water/condensation than oil, but the gunk it left behind was nasty.