[gcoryell]

Take the 3 timing covers off completely per factory service manual. There is a shim upgrade that corrects one of the pulleys being slightly out of plane. Also requires clearancing the underside of the lower side engine mount with a die grinder. If you shortcut timing belt system work, only bad things can happen.

 

[Invent1]

Yes I replaced this evening without doing the other components. The hardest part was pulling the grenade pin with the lower cover in place! I removed three of the cover bolts and pulled it outward but could not find a good place to press against for leverage...I ended up using a slip joint pliers against the tensioner bolt. If anyone has suggestions for a better tool/method, I am all ears! After all, given my luck I may need another one in 38k miles...

If others plan to do this replacement I highly recommend having the following tools on hand:
1/4” flex head ratchet
1/4” palm/thumbwheel ratchet (I didn't have this but it sure would have come in handy for the cover bolts!)
10mm shallow socket and 1" extension
M6 x 50mm bolt (to hold the idler in place while the tensioner is removed; the service manual suggests using one of the battery bolts but that is too long and the PS hose gets in the way)

Were you able to replace the tensioner with removing the belt covers or any other parts, like the front wheel or inner fender? If so that would save me a lot of work. My tensioner died early - it doesn't need the belt, water pump or anything else. I searched youtube, forums and the net but couldn't find anything about how to do this. Any additional info or tips on this big time-saver would be a huge help.
Thanks, John

 

[rmyoder]

Were you able to replace the tensioner with removing the belt covers or any other parts, like the front wheel or inner fender? If so that would save me a lot of work. My tensioner died early - it doesn't need the belt, water pump or anything else. I searched youtube, forums and the net but couldn't find anything about how to do this. Any additional info or tips on this big time-saver would be a huge help.
Thanks, John

The job is pretty straightforward (see my previous posts in this thread). I removed the rear cover from the top side and removed the bolts from the lower cover. The lower cover is behind the balancer so it cannot be removed but you can just bend it outward a little, to gain access to the tensioner. Overall the job would have taken about 30 min if the pin had been easy to pull...it was a PITA from that angle!

 

[Invent1]

The job is pretty straightforward (see my previous posts in this thread). I removed the rear cover from the top side and removed the bolts from the lower cover. The lower cover is behind the balancer so it cannot be removed but you can just bend it outward a little, to gain access to the tensioner. Overall the job would have taken about 30 min if the pin had been easy to pull...it was a PITA from that angle!

Thanks so much! I'll give it a try and post any tips I learn in the process. I may try to grease the pin's contact surfaces to make removal easier (or modify the pin's 'handle'). If I can install the tensioner without removing the left front wheel or inner fender, -- all the better.

 

[rmyoder]

You definitely have to remove the right front wheel. I did not remove the inner fender but that may have been helpful.

 

[Invent1]

You definitely have to remove the right front wheel. I did not remove the inner fender but that may have been helpful.

Thank you. I'll also get the bolt you recommended and install that (temporarily) before removing the tensioner.

 

[rmyoder]

Thank you. I'll also get the bolt you recommended and install that (temporarily) before removing the tensioner.

The alternative (and recommended) procedure is to use the battery clamp bolt. However it is too long and hits lots of stuff behind the engine...the short bolt is much easier.

 

[Invent1]

Thanks much. Parts are ordered. I'll post what I learned (if anything) in installing the tensioner.

 

[oldskewel]

The alternative (and recommended) procedure is to use the battery clamp bolt. However it is too long and hits lots of stuff behind the engine...the short bolt is much easier.

Yes, it's either an M5 or M6 bolt - I forget, but probably M6. Needs to be long enough (50+mm of thread, probably).

More convenient than using the battery hold down (as I did the first time, before I knew better). One thing to keep in mind though, is that using the battery hold down, twisting it by hand limits how much torque you can apply, making sure you don't break anything. Once you are using a 10mm hex head M6 screw, driven by a wrench or socket drive, you'll want to pay attention to how much torque you are applying, so you don't tweak anything.

 

[oldskewel]

Take the 3 timing covers off completely per factory service manual. There is a shim upgrade that corrects one of the pulleys being slightly out of plane. Also requires clearancing the underside of the lower side engine mount with a die grinder. If you shortcut timing belt system work, only bad things can happen.

Any more info on this? I've never heard of adding shims here. Is there a TSB that everyone should follow?

 

[Invent1]

Yes, it's either an M5 or M6 bolt - I forget, but probably M6. Needs to be long enough (50+mm of thread, probably).

More convenient than using the battery hold down (as I did the first time, before I knew better). One thing to keep in mind though, is that using the battery hold down, twisting it by hand limits how much torque you can apply, making sure you don't break anything. Once you are using a 10mm hex head M6 screw, driven by a wrench or socket drive, you'll want to pay attention to how much torque you are applying, so you don't tweak anything.

Thank you again for the tips. I'll check the size of the battery hold down with caliper before I buy the bolt. And I won't use an impact wrench or breaker bar on the bolt - I was worried about the contact point so I many even smooth the tip of the bolt to prevent scarring the wheel

 

[rmyoder]

Thank you again for the tips. I'll check the size of the battery hold down with caliper before I buy the bolt. And I won't use an impact wrench or breaker bar on the bolt - I was worried about the contact point so I many even smooth the tip of the bolt to prevent scarring the wheel

I just turned the bolt hand tight plus about 1/4 turn. The goal is to hold the tensioner pulley in position while the tensioner is removed. Definitely don't go crazy on it...I don't know if anything bad would happen but why chance it.

 

[0dyfamily]

The Honda OEM tensioner on our V6 Accord started to do the same as the OP's did at just over 70,000 miles.

I've said this before....I really don't like this design for holding tension on a timing belt. There has to be a better way to do this.

Yes, it's either an M5 or M6 bolt - I forget, but probably M6. Needs to be long enough (50+mm of thread, probably).

More convenient than using the battery hold down (as I did the first time, before I knew better). One thing to keep in mind though, is that using the battery hold down, twisting it by hand limits how much torque you can apply, making sure you don't break anything. Once you are using a 10mm hex head M6 screw, driven by a wrench or socket drive, you'll want to pay attention to how much torque you are applying, so you don't tweak anything.

I added the bold, underscore, italics for emphasis...this is so true. You can break the threaded boss that the battery hold down threads into if you apply more than hand torque.

Full disclosure...I've done that. Yup, broken it on a previous timing belt job long, long ago. Listen to oldskewel on this one!

OF

 

[rmyoder]

@Invent1 I don't know your level of experience or your garage/safety gear setup, so this may or may not be necessary.

Part of the time you will be lying on your back under the brake rotor, looking upward as you reach for the tensioner. This is a precarious position where you will encounter brake dust, mud, grease, etc. and will therefore need the following:

Safety glasses
Mechanics gloves
Jack stands

*I also shove the wheel under the floorboard, just because it makes me feel more secure.

 

[Invent1]

@Invent1 I don't know your level of experience or your garage/safety gear setup, so this may or may not be necessary.

Part of the time you will be lying on your back under the brake rotor, looking upward as you reach for the tensioner. This is a precarious position where you will encounter brake dust, mud, grease, etc. and will therefore need the following:

Safety glasses
Mechanics gloves
Jack stands

*I also shove the wheel under the floorboard, just because it makes me feel more secure.

Thank you. It was very thoughtful to add the above. I've known two people who died working under cars when the jack or other supports gave way.
Using the wheel under the car is excellent advice whether using jack stands or not.
And I'd add that cement blocks are a risky choice for support because they can crumble.

 

[Invent1]

I just finished replacing the tensioner without removing the crank pully. I bought the Aisin kit from geeks Part Number: W0133-1840073 ordered 9-17-21 $222 w/sh. Here are my notes in case of help. Note this was on a 2013 RDX

Replacing just the tensioner​

Tools I used
10mm shallow socket
3/8” flex head ratchet (¼” might be easier to use)
thumbwheel (helpful not essential)
1" and 6” extension (I used ¼” with a 3/8 to ¼ adapter)
M6 x 50mm (2”) bolt (could be shorter)
Shoe string
Tapered Wood block
jack & stand

prep
push pin fully into tensioner and trim ½” off pin w/ Dremel tool (so the ring of the pin doesn’t have to be pulled as far out – it might be blocked by the cover)
grease pin contact surfaces and move it in and out to lube the surfaces (only move the pin outward by pressing it against a surface until it’s flush – you don’t want to accidentally remove it)
tie a shoelace or such to the pin to keep it from falling down inside

remove the right front wheel.
Pop 3 plastic rivets out (pry the rivet center out) to pull down the plastic inner fender front splash guard
remove upper rear timing belt cover (5 bolts)
remove three of the lower cover bolts and pull it/bend it outward
insert a wedge of wood or such to hold lower cover away from engine block
pack upper opening of lower cover with paper towels to prevent bolt from falling down into cover
install M6 x 50mm (2”) bolt (to hold the idler in place while the tensioner is removed)
Remove 2 bolts holding the tensioner in place (it may be under pressure)
Install the replacement tensioner with its two bolts
Pull/pry grenade pin (I clamped small vice grips on the pin and pried on on that)
Remove M6 bolt (place paper towels to prevent bolt from falling down
replace the covers

This took me 3 hrs as a first timer.
P.S. the old tensioner did not have an oily deposits

 

[rmyoder]

Great write up! Grinding/lubing the pin is a great idea. I will definitely try this if I am (mis)fortunate enough to do this procedure again.

 

[Bear3412]

Any more info on this? I've never heard of adding shims here. Is there a TSB that everyone should follow?

This wasn't an issue somehow on our 2008 touring, knock on wood.
This TSB covers a lot of vehicles. 2005-2008 Odyssey All, and many others.

http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/A08-045.PDF

 

[falckey]

Just had our 2nd tensioner replaced at 51k miles, 1st one at 35k....2nd water pump as well, factory pump had a very small leak and replaced at 40k miles, 2nd pump bearing was making noise which i thought was quite odd, replaced at 51k....2016 LX, muzzled since new

 

[jnissen]

Just had our 2nd tensioner replaced at 51k miles, 1st one at 35k....2nd water pump as well, factory pump had a very small leak and replaced at 40k miles, 2nd pump bearing was making noise which i thought was quite odd, replaced at 51k....2016 LX, muzzled since new

Was it OEM or aftermarket parts?