Check this out:
https://www.odyclub.com/forums/54-2011-2017-odyssey/262841-2015-transmission-drain-fill.html

 

A single drain-and-fill requires you to buy about 4 quarts of new ATF. If you have been enjoying the way your transmission functions with the OEM DW-1, it's not a bad choice to use it again. It's not the only good choice, but it is definitely one of them.

 

Do you think this will help with my "slippage" in the transmission? What is happening is that whenever I start slowing down at a stop light or stop sign, there is a judder from downshifting and I'm hoping an ATF flush will help with this slippage?

 

How many miles on your Ody and is this the first time for changing fluid? Many here subscribe to a single drain and fill every 15K miles (about every other oil change if you are following the maintenance minder), but if you are past 50K miles you probably want to do a 3X drain and fill to change out more of the fluid since a single only changes about 40% of the total volume.

I am one of many here using Valvoline Maxlife. Can be had at most Walmarts in a 4 qt container for ~$18 and it's full synthetic. IMO it's better than DW-1 and cheaper, a hard to beat combo.

 

You don't want to use a transmission flushing machine - Honda recommends doing repetitive drain/fill/drive cycles (3 or 4 of them) to change out the majority of the transmission fluid. How does the fluid look/smell? When you do the first drain, get a look at how much and what sort of debris is on the drain plug magnet. should be some fluffy deposts, but no bigger pieces of metal.

 

This thread gives me the opportunity to query about the funnel that fits the trans dip tube.
What is it called and where?

 

This is the one I use, but this is a Canadian website - there's no way it's not readily available in the States: https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/plastic-funnel-with-handle/A-p4270167e

I've not tried this one, but I've seen it IRL and I think it should fit down the dipstick tube just fine: https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10704-FloTool-Spill-Measu-Funnel/dp/B000EH4V0Y

This one also looks promising: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD2HYQW/ref=psdc_15708811_t2_B01N1V1B20


I prefer the ones with plastic hoses to the flexible metal spouts; when I was shopping for mine, I just couldn't find a metal one long enough to reach the dipstick tube.

 

MaxLife user here too. '06 EX-L with previous Z/DW-1 D&Fs. 120k now with ~ 5k mi with MaxLife. Much better shifting than DW-1 IMO.

Funnel.. you won't find one that will fit the dip stick tube since it's too narrow. Following an online guide, I heat treated the end of 5/16" OD plastic tubing to a funnel and use it for top off after a D&F. Flow rate is too slow for me. For bulk-filling the AT, I use the fill bolt opening with a 18" long neck funnel snug-attached to a flex-spout adapter.

Getting the fill bolt off can be a bear. You'll need a long extension, swivel adapter and possibly a breaker bar. I recommend 1/2" breaker/extensions due to required torque. I about snapped my 3/8" harbor freight bar. Held up though. Good thing is you won't ever have it on that tight again!


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MaxLife user here too. '06 EX-L with previous Z/DW-1 D&Fs. 120k now with ~ 5k mi with MaxLife. Much better shifting than DW-1 IMO.

Funnel.. you won't find one that will fit the dip stick tube since it's too narrow. Following an online guide, I heat treated the end of 5/16" OD plastic tubing to a funnel and use it for top off after a D&F. Flow rate is too slow for me. For bulk-filling the AT, I use the fill bolt opening with a 18" long neck funnel snug-attached to a flex-spout adapter.

Getting the fill bolt off can be a bear. You'll need a long extension, swivel adapter and possibly a breaker bar. I recommend 1/2" breaker/extensions due to required torque. I about snapped my 3/8" harbor freight bar. Held up though. Good thing is you won't ever have it on that tight again!

Welcome to Odyclub!

It's not true that a funnel that fits inside the dipstick tube can't be found. I have one and it fits very nicely; couldn't be easier if you tried. Now, I'll grant that refilling the ATF through the dipstick tube is slower than going through the fill port on top of the transmission, but I don't mind to take my time. It's not as though a drain-and-fill is an arduous process.

As you note yourself, getting the fill port open on these vans can be a pain - literally and figuratively, so I'm happy to skip that step. But it's definitely faster to fill.

Good to know you're having a good experience with MaxLife - lots of others are too.

 

Glad that you found a cooperative funnel! At least on the 2006 , it didn't seem like anything much more than 5/16" would fit.

A word to those who may attempt to remove the fill bolt: wear thick gloves and put padding around the windshield. Likely when it breaks free everything will go flying

Oh, I used to have a login here maybe 10 yrs ago…lost it so had to make a new one. That's back before password managers


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Yes I used a piece of heater hose trimmed down and stuck to the end of the long funnel. Works well for the dip stick tube and no leaks. I just keep the piece of tubing in my funnel storage area. Know where its at the next time I need it!

 

To those of you using amsoil, you're using the one with the blue cap, correct? Where did you purchase it?

 

I've heard of people here using both the Signature Series or the regular fuel efficient ATF (both have a blue cap) with very good results.

Amsoil doesn't generally do large-scale retail stores the way other companies do. They sell through a network of local independent distributors, which you can become for yourself if you want. If you don't want to bother with that, you can search for a dealer near you on their website.

https://www.amsoil.com/offers/pc.aspx

 

I just use the $2 long automotive one from Walmart. IDK whether it would work in gen3 or gen5 Odys, but for my gen4 '14, it works fine. It's long enough, and wedges down into place. What it DOESN't do is have a 'seal' (as one would expect from an appropriate diameter hose shoved down in there), so you DO need to pour SLOWLY... But once I figured that out, not a single problem or misplaced drip.

 

I would go with the drain and fill times three with Honda DW1.

 

Sometimes...sometimes, this happens. It's rare that MaxLife doesn't work well in an Odyssey spec'd for DW-1, but once in a blue moon it occurs.

True, for most of us who have used it, it's been a great ATF.

OF

 

A thought on using a long funnel in the dipstick hole and the fact it fills slow that way. Has anyone tried to cut the small end of the funnel at a 45 degree angle with success? I wonder if the funnel bottoms out, which would cause a slow fill rate.

 

I use the long funnel with plastic tube attached and it works great, perfectly fitting inside the dipstick tube. I can turn the transmission fluid container totally upside down in the funnel with no issues or spills from the tube or funnel at all.
Check out the pics:
https://www.odyclub.com/forums/54-2011-2017-odyssey/262841-2015-transmission-drain-fill.html

 

Where do you folks see the recommendation for changing every 30,000 miles? I just changed it in my 2014 Ody today - along with all new brakes and brake fluid flush - for the first time (brakes and tran fluid were factory) at 70,000 trouble free miles - and the MM was not indicating it was time to change the tranny fluid. I used to change fluids much more often on my previous vehicles but decided to trust the MM and so far so good. Other than MM recommended oil changes and air filters I haven't done any other maintenance so far other than tires. Which my 2018 CRV (with its oil dilution issue) was as worry free as this Odyssey!

 

I'm pretty sure the MM will give the trans fluid code at 30/60/90 etc. It is my understanding that it is not done by an algorithm like the oil is, but simply on miles. Are you sure you didn't miss it?

It seems every few weeks somebody will start a thread asking what members recommend for maintenance intervals, especially when they don't understand the MM. I always answer the question with a question. What are your expectations for your vehicle. If you are one that trades cars in the 5-7 year range and before 150K miles then just follow the MM, but if you are planning for 200K+ or God forbid 250-300K, have a true severe service situation with lots of stop/go city driving, towing, heavy hauling, etc., then you would be well advised to consider a more aggressive plan. JMO

 

I had a 1999 Ody. Notorious for tranny problems. Recommended change interval just did not cut it. I think it was 60k miles. I have since adopted (for all my other Honda's) a 15k mile ATF change. This is somewhat equivalent to a 60k full flush. More importantly, I settled on 15k mile because at that time the fluid is still red and smells relatively fresh.

 

I always use transmission fluid from Honda, I read somewhere that Honda have their secret formula in their oil for Honda transmission. Beside they are not that expensive.

 

Yup. Honda's are pick about their fluids. About the only thing I will use NOT Honda is radiator coolant and engine oil.

 

Actually you do not flush the transmission. You drain and refill with fresh ATF (F=fluid).

 

Please note the OP didn't say he was flushing the trans. Only that doing a fluid replacement every 15K was the equivalent of a flush (complete fluid replacement) at 60K. Personally I do a 3X drain/fill every 30K, but those that do a single drain/fill every 15K have said they like that approach because it refreshes the fluid additives more frequently, a very legit concept.

 

According to the online PDF manual for the 2011, the ATF fluid check is performed at operating temp with radiator fan on, and wait 60-90 secs after shutting off the engine:

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According to the online PDF manual for the 2011, the ATF fluid check is performed at operating temp with radiator fan on, and wait 60-90 secs after shutting off the engine:

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Interesting but would the same apply to the Touring model, in #2 picture diagram that you have slightly cut off? I assume it would apply since the concept is the same to wait 60-90 seconds. I'll have to give this a try to see if there is any difference.

 

The only difference in the procedure is the location if the dip stick. I suggest downloading the manual - it's free [emoji106]

My only advice is to read the dipstick properly so that you don't overfill. Follow the "hot shot" stalagmite streaks until you see the sheen of the fluid level. Like motor oil it will quickly pool at the bottom of the stick. To the untrained , it will look like a low level.


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Depending on the model year. some Tourings had a different transmission. Same checking technique.

 

I just picked up my 2012 EX-L about a month ago, 75,000 miles. when i checked the ATF at the dealership, it looked reddish brown so i knew that it would look dark brown/black when i drained it. Carfax showed no records of it ever being changed so i got on it today. i did a 1X drain and fill, the fluid was definitely old. very brown, almost black like used motor oil. seeing that really irritated me, why dont people protect their investment? maybe the previous owner was the type that ignores that kind of maintenance, knowing they will most likely get rid of the vehicle before any major issues arise. I plan on doing another 1X drain and fill in May, and a 3rd 1X in June. at that point i will do a 1X drain and fill at every oil change thereafter.

 

Sounds like a good plan! It lets the tranny get used to the new fluid. What AT fluid did you use?


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Every other oil change after the 3rd drain and fill would probably suffice

 

Agreed