An exhaust leak would have nothing to do with P1457. That code is for a leak in the EVAP system. That can be anything between the gas cap and the purge valve on the engine.

 

That's what I expected. Looks like I have some detective work ahead of me. Thanks for the response.

 

gas cap I think is code 1456 isn't it?

1457 is the evap side and 1456 is tank side IIRC

i found on newish Hondas, 1457 is a result of rust buildup that pushes the seal away from the purge control solenoid doohickey... I've seen a bunch of different names for it, but I know on my 01 civic it was located on the pass side of the charcoal canister next to the tank. i wish I had taken pics to show what happens to make it fail. electrically it tested fine and moved well, but the bubbling rust created a leak around the seal. I was going to clean one up and try it to see if my theory about the method of failure is correct.

 

gas cap I think is code 1456 isn't it?

1457 is the evap side and 1456 is tank side IIRC

That's correct...so probably not the gas cap. Just have to find the leak. I'd suspect the purge valve, or hose to/from, since the vehicle didn't have the problem prior to the engine swap.

 

I filled the tank and cleared the code yesterday. I drove it to work again today, no codes. From what I've read, this is another sign that it truly is EVAP related.

 

A P1457 is most definitely an EVAP related code. I'm sure P1457 is a 2-drive cycle code so it may not turn on the check engine light the first time it sees the problem. It will likely need to see it twice in a row before setting the code. It doesn't mean the problem isn't there. Make sure the purge valve isn't leaking.

 

Do you smell gas at the filler neck?
If so check the gas return line ~1/2 way down the filler neck for a break.
Fixed mine!
GL

 

Gas cap and filler neck issues would be p1456 which is a tank side leak. P1457 is a canister side leak.

 

P1457 is common for 2nd gen Ody. It's caused by rusting leaking canister purge valve.

I replaced it in my 2000LX Ody with Dorman 911-752 from Amazon, $33. There are many replacement videos online.
Be sure to lubricate the O-ring before installing it in the canister.

 

I don't know the history of the van, so I don't know if this was a problem before the engine swap or if it's a new problem.

I'd suspect the purge valve, or hose to/from, since the vehicle didn't have the problem prior to the engine swap.

A P1457 is most definitely an EVAP related code. I'm sure P1457 is a 2-drive cycle code so it may not turn on the check engine light the first time it sees the problem. It will likely need to see it twice in a row before setting the code. It doesn't mean the problem isn't there. Make sure the purge valve isn't leaking.

I don't know the history of the van. When I bought it, it wasn't running due to a blown engine. I filled the tank at lunch yesterday and cleared the code right there at the pump. I then drove it back to work, then home after work, then to my buddy's place to jump start his car, then home again, then back to work this morning. It still hasn't thrown the code. I didn't say the problem wasn't there, I said the CEL didn't come back on due to the tank being full.

Do you smell gas at the filler neck?
If so check the gas return line ~1/2 way down the filler neck for a break.
Fixed mine!
GL

I don't smell gas at all.

 

Thanks for the tips guys

 

Code 1457




I found this video (which is going to help me as well) https://youtu.be/Jl14guRsJrw and the guy does a whole explanation on a valve connected to the e-vap can.

It may help with the code.

 

The evap test can take a couple of days to finish. The fuel level usually has to be between 15-85% so if the tank is full it won't run the test. You can use your scan tool to check readiness monitors. If the EVAP says incomplete then it hasn't even tested it yet. Then, when it does test you'll have to get two failed tests in order to get a check engine light.

 

I replaced that valve mentioned on a 99 Accord and my 00 Ody for this code. Both within a year and the code seemed to happen more towards the half full mark. The valve is attached to the canister under the car with 2 screws that like to rust in place. Remove valve and cover one side with your hand and blow into the other side, if air comes out in the middle of the unit (2 or 3 pieces held together with metal) then it's toast. Not worth trying to get it to seal for how cheap they are to buy. Here's a thread about it.

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/293521-p1457-my-2001-how-long-can-i-ignore.html

 

I've got 44 miles on the tank and the light came back on this morning.

 

Sounds about right. You'll need to find your leak.

 

I found the purge solenoid to be leaking so I replaced it. P1457 is gone, but after two days with no CEL, P1456 popped up this morning as I pulled into work. From what I've read, it looks like this one could be a headache to track down.

 

Gas cap first but there's also a post on sealing the filler neck. One of the users here also found a leak (crack) on the filler pipe near the tank.

This is a long thread but there's a good write-up and pics. I did this back in 09 and no code since.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/33545-check-engine-light-p1456-6.html