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cant find the missfire problem

8.6K views 22 replies 14 participants last post by  Alec-BL  
#1 ·
Ok so i changed injectors ,coil pack all 6 , egr valve , fuel pump i checked the vtec screen filter i really dont know where to check anymore if anybody can help thanks ! And the symptoms are it doesnt go past 3500-4000 rpm so and then check engine flash's but no check engine stays on but with my obd scanner it catchs miss fire all cylinders
 
#15 ·
Are the only codes the ones for 'missfire on all cylinders"? Please post ALL the codes.
Also do more searching on the Internet using 3500rpm being the max, etc.
If your are mechanically inclined, you could physically remove the front (primary) O2 sensor and drive a short time without it. If the Ody now goes over the 3500 rpm, that would indicate a plugged cat. (removing that O2 sensor bleeds off the pressure), Don't leave it out for days. :eek:
You could also use an infra-red thermometer and check the temp difference at the front of the cat and the back of the cat. Google for how to do that.
Buffalo4
 
#10 · (Edited)
What have you done since the onset of the misfire and what was done just before it? Just because a part was replaced year and half ago does not mean it is still good.

If you want to diagnosis it yourself, you will have to follow logical trouble shooting procedure. First you need to find which cylinder is actually misfiring. This can be done by disconnecting coil on each cylinder one at a time until you find the one which causes NO CHANGE in the running of the engine. Then you figure out if it is the coil, spark plug, compression, fuel-injector is the culprit for that specific cylinder by simple swap of coil/spark plug from neighboring cylinder. Also the order given is from easy stuff to harder stuff to do.

If you can't pinpoint specific cylinder, then it means something which is common to all the cylinders is causing the problem. This could be due to low fuel pressure/volume under load. Another culprit could be EGR system. There should be more code stores apart of P030x codes.

Or you could just keep on changing parts until the problem goes away.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Some suggestions:
Compression test
Read the spark plugs for any possible fouling problems, etc.
May have more than one problem.

Since it started so suddenly at the 3500-4000 rpm range, I would suspect a vtec problem. You may have to take the valve apart to see if the valve is stuck. Perhaps it is not getting the voltage it needs to operate properly.

Interesting read here which may give you other clues:
http://www.justanswer.com/honda/7wv4w-honda-accord-ex-hi-rip-1999-honda-accord-ex-f2-3.html

Best of luck and please post back when you get it fixed and what you did to fix it. :)
Buffalo4
 
#17 ·
Some suggestions:
Compression test
Read the spark plugs for any possible fouling problems, etc.
May have more than one problem.

Since it started so suddenly at the 3500-4000 rpm range, I would suspect a vtec problem. You may have to take the valve apart to see if the valve is stuck. Perhaps it is not getting the voltage it needs to operate properly.

Interesting read here which may give you other clues:
Honda Accord EX: HI RIP, I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX F2.3…

Best of luck and please post back when you get it fixed and what you did to fix it. :)
Buffalo4
Good idea with the VTEC, Buffalo4.

adangbadang, Honda is notorious for oil leaks, particularly at the VTEC control valve. If you haven't already, I would definitely address that (probably needs to be done regardless). There could be a leak inside that valve that can't be seen that would prevent the VTEC from operating. New gaskets and some RTV are pretty cheap, and it's super easy to pull the valve and reseal. Make sure you get both gaskets - one that seals the valve to the head, and the other swirly one that seals the inside of the valve.
 
#13 ·
My '05 Odyssey has same problem. It is intermittent. In failed mode the check engine light flashes and it throws codes for misfire on all cylinders. When it happens we can consistently turn the car off and back on and it will run normally. It happens fairly regularly and can happen at startup or while driving. In failed mode it maxes at about 3,500 rpms and runs rough. It will drive, up to maybe 45 mph, but with low power. I replaced the plugs, which all looked fine with no change. Also checked the rear cat to see if something was plugging it and it looks fine on input and output ends. What should I try next? The intermittency says to me not a vacuum or other mechanical issue, but some sort of electrical issue. Maybe I will unplug the battery to see if it resets something.
 
#19 ·
And what have you done to diagnose this? Have you followed suggestion in the other thread you posted to in the 3rd Gen section? It would also help to post your year, mileage and trim- preferably in that other thread.