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Excellent write-up, thank you for instilling confidence in tackling this "near impossible" task as some call it. I set aside some time this Labor Day weekend to change everything. It was very straight forward, though more time consuming than an ATF flush on our previous '05 Odyssey. Seriously, you did a stellar job outlining everything.
 
I took the splash guard and the transmission metal cover away, but still find the space to access the fill bolt and level check screw is very tight. I wonder there is enough space to move around. Also it is difficult to have a direct sight on the fill bolt. I took off the air intake at the top, but there is almost no help to see the fill bolt.
I did everything from underneath since you have better physical and visual access to the various bolts. A mixture of shallow and deep sockets and extensions made it all come together. It is tricky to see directly inside the level bolt (especially when you're checking the ATF level afterwards), but I used my phone to fit between the narrow spaces and capture the fluid level. Waiting for that 'drip' from the level plug hole is a bit satisfying.

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Discussion starter · #43 ·
Currently with the van at almost 82K, I got the A123 code which involves transmission fluid. Its only been around 14 months (almost 32K) since my first change.
Not sure if anyone else has a 80K+ on their vans that had this pop up.
 
Thanks for writing up your work and this thread, smufguy ! Doesn't look nearly as difficult as filling a VW-AUDI DSG or the ZF 8-Speed on my truck.

I'm considering purchasing a 2023 Ody, and I've been mining the forum on what I'd be getting myself into compared woith what I've done in ten years owning and maintaining a 2012 EXL.

Mariner4
2012 EXL at 210K miles
 
I did everything from underneath since you have better physical and visual access to the various bolts. A mixture of shallow and deep sockets and extensions made it all come together. It is tricky to see directly inside the level bolt (especially when you're checking the ATF level afterwards), but I used my phone to fit between the narrow spaces and capture the fluid level. Waiting for that 'drip' from the level plug hole is a bit satisfying.
This is great info and well documented step by step instructions to be able to follow along. B13 maintenance code just popped up for me, so I'm going to try this soon. Easy question for anyone who has done this already. From what I understand, the filler plug and level check are on the side. Are you able to reach it with funnel and tube through the top of the engine compartment? Thanks in advance!
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
This is great info and well documented step by step instructions to be able to follow along. B13 maintenance code just popped up for me, so I'm going to try this soon. Easy question for anyone who has done this already. From what I understand, the filler plug and level check are on the side. Are you able to reach it with funnel and tube through the top of the engine compartment? Thanks in advance!
I use a funnel and tubing to reach it from the top. One advice - do not dump the fluid into the funnel and expect it to empty into the transmission. Due to the fluid path, adding fluid too quickly may cause the fluid to bounce back and leak from the fill hole. You do have to pup off the radiator top trim to get the clearance you need. The lower panels are just a PITA without a lift.

Fill bolt and the level check bolt are on top of each other. The drain is on the bottom.
 
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I also have a 2019 Elite. Not sure how to tell if my 10AT is type A or B (do I need $3.00 level bolt washer)? Without disassembling anything I grabbed a boroscope picture of the level bolt and case to the right. I'm not sure what the "rib" on type B looks like. Is it the little raised circular protrusion? Mine looks just like smufguy's 2019 and NOT like .M.'s 2018.

So, smufguy, do I have type B that takes a 4.5 qt. fill?

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Discussion starter · #48 ·
@lovitzg , because of the little bump you have, you have a Type-B and thus 4.5qt of Type 2 fluid you would use.
 
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Awesome stuff @smufguy !! Thank you. Where do I buy the list of needed parts including the fluid? I am aiming to complete the transmission fluid change this weekend and I am hoping I am able to find the needed parts by this Saturday. Any insight is much appreciated!
If you get parts and fluid via your Honda dealer, you should be able to get everything before the weekend.
 
Has anyone done this procedure without jacking up the front end? My driveway has a very slight incline, so I was going to raise the rear slightly to get it level. I was thinking if I had to jack the front, I will use ramps and then jack up the rear (probably put stands under the front welds just incase as well). Of course I want to get it level while being safe as well.
 
So I answered my question above, it can be done and is relatively safe as well. This job is way easier than I imagined. The price of the dealer $500+ scared me the most, but it was actually very really simple. I've done transmission fluid changes before but this was just a bit trickier. I didn't use any swivel joints and simply loosened the bracket with the wiring harness to get easy access to the fill level bolt. I was extremely surprised with the cleanliness of the underside of my 18' Ody as I am in Southern Ontario Canada and we use way too much salt here. The only tip I would give is to make sure you have a nice couple of layers of old towels or something to catch the drips as no matter how slow I poured, I still got a few drips out as well.
 
Yup, to trap blow-by gases. Cant provide a confirmation till I pull the cylinder heads and inspect the valves.
The catch can is there just a a preventive measure as many with GDI engines have complained about carbon buildup. In the J35Y engines, the placement of the fuel injectors and their spray pattern does claim to 'wash' the back of the valves (by design), but I figured it does not hurt to be cautious.

This is from my oil change this past Sunday

View attachment 159849

This is from my previous oil change in June 2020

View attachment 159850

Though I cannot attest to these amounts being a lot (or not), I can imagine the possible effects of them when touching the hot intake valves, or even the lower intake runners.
Where is this catch can you mention?
 
@RooflessVW
It's to bad that you could have scraped the sludge off the transmission plug drain bolt into a shallow coffee cup and put some paint thinner in the cup ( about a 1/4 cup worth, you would be able to see the metal particles. Most of the sludge you see on it is not magnetic, but just trapped with the small metal particles. Stirring the sludge with the sludge would separate the metal and other sludge items will show up in a half hour or less. You could even put you magnetic bolt into the cup to remove the metal and only see the metal on the magnet. You would probably see some more metal still in the cup, which would probably be the casting aluminum of the transmission that gets knocked off in areas when it is assembled.
Nothing looks abnormal by just the picture.
 
@RooflessVW
It's to bad that you could have scraped the sludge off the transmission plug drain bolt into a shallow coffee cup and put some paint thinner in the cup ( about a 1/4 cup worth, you would be able to see the metal particles. Most of the sludge you see on it is not magnetic, but just trapped with the small metal particles. Stirring the sludge with the sludge would separate the metal and other sludge items will show up in a half hour or less. You could even put you magnetic bolt into the cup to remove the metal and only see the metal on the magnet. You would probably see some more metal still in the cup, which would probably be the casting aluminum of the transmission that gets knocked off in areas when it is assembled.
Nothing looks abnormal by just the picture.
That's doing too much for me!

This is less material compared to other transmissions I have serviced and didn't find it alarming; I just wanted to add a point of data to the thread.

I'm so far pleased with this 10 speed. Seems to shift smoother after the service, but that may be imagined.
 
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