a hoist always helps with getting a good swing at it with a 15 pound sledge and a solid bar.

try putting the trans in neutral and spin the axle back and for a couple turns while you bang at it.

Some automotive tool rental places have the correct axle puller tool you can rent.
There is a kit with slidehammer and an impact type.

I remember when my 2000EX had the transmission out for the rebuild, the axle was stuck in there so bad (passenger side) they just removed the transmission with the end stuck in the side, then worked away at it on the bench.

 

something like either of these.

 

Man, I am grateful for those who keep inventing tools like these.

OF

 

I only got wind of them after John U's axle experience.

just like the harmonic balancer socket for doing timing belts.
If you can rent the tool, it will make the DIY experience less regrettable, and more pleasant.

 

I picked up the axle shaft puller and slide hammer set from the AutoZone Loan-A-Tool program. It won't work because I can't get it between the CV casing and the transmission. I did see that they have the popper tool also. I don't think there will be enough room to get it started in between, but it's really my last shot before putting it all back together and hiring the job out.

 

The only thing holding the axle in is a circular clip. Trick is to keep turning the axle every quarter turn or so and pull with the pry bar. You basically want to get the clip centered so it will have the least resistance. Be patient, you'll get there. Sometimes going the opposite 180 deg. end of the axle works too.

 

Just grab the axle and pull hard away from the transmission. See if that works

 

any luck?

 

Yesterday I tried the Axle Popper tool from AutoZone Loan-A-Tool but you can't even get the fork to the seam due to the frame and construction of the transmission housing. I've rotated it and pounded on it and done everything I can to "pop" it free. It is definitely rusted in place - I'm fighting against more than just the circular retaining clip.

My concern now is that any more aggressive attempts will only damage something - either it will just mangle the cup and not move the splines or that in getting the splines to come out the retaining clip will shatter inside the transmission, something will happen to the transmission itself. It's a '99 with almost 300k on it. It's still in pretty good shape but we'd already been looking for a replacement.

I'm thinking about cutting the boot clip off the cup and removing the old axle, cleaning out the cup that's stuck in the transmission, cutting the clip off the boot of the new axle, inserting it into the old cup with adequate grease, and putting a replacement band on.

Or, I just leave the old one in there and plan on a newer van purchase.

 

Yesterday I tried the Axle Popper tool from AutoZone Loan-A-Tool but you can't even get the fork to the seam due to the frame and construction of the transmission housing. I've rotated it and pounded on it and done everything I can to "pop" it free. It is definitely rusted in place - I'm fighting against more than just the circular retaining clip.

My concern now is that any more aggressive attempts will only damage something - either it will just mangle the cup and not move the splines or that in getting the splines to come out the retaining clip will shatter inside the transmission, something will happen to the transmission itself. It's a '99 with almost 300k on it. It's still in pretty good shape but we'd already been looking for a replacement.

I'm thinking about cutting the boot clip off the cup and removing the old axle, cleaning out the cup that's stuck in the transmission, cutting the clip off the boot of the new axle, inserting it into the old cup with adequate grease, and putting a replacement band on.

Or, I just leave the old one in there and plan on a newer van purchase.

The snap ring is stuck and not collapsing...

you could just pay for someone else to hammer away at it on a hoist.

In some cases I have seen the boot cut shaft removed, and use a puller on the remaining part stuck in the casing.

some guys on youtube used vice grips threaded into a slide hammer.

 

Like you mentioned...take the inner joint apart by taking the clamps off the boot. Leaving the inner part in the trans. I've had to do this a couple times when replacing the boots. Saves time and headaches.

It's almost certainly just the clip holding it in. I've had afew that really were hard to get out and it was just the clip. No rust or other problem.

 

Today I got the slider hammer puller set from Advance which had the adapter for use with Vise Grips. I tried it many times in all three bearing grooves rotating it around, until my hands were tingling from all the impacts = nothing. I proceeded with the backup plan of leaving the cup in the transmission. I had to switch out the new boot for the old boot as they were different shapes inside. Tonight I got the replacement bands to tighten down the boot. Tomorrow reassembly and test drive.

 

you do what you gotta do when you're "stuck"
trying to be punny...

did you try gently hammering it inwards, to unjam that stubborn compression ring?
a combination of banging and pulling may set it free.

 

Basically, yes. There was a lot of banging it back and forth (and shaking my fists at it and primal scream motivation). The cup would move in and out maybe a 1/16th-1/8th inch, but would never come free.

 

might be good as a last ditch to try two people, one to bang inwards on it while youre using the puller.

 

This guy used a clever method...

 

That is interesting. Meanwhile, back at the bat cave, the bearings on the new axle shaft are smaller than the previous, therefore, they are even more loose in the existing cup than the old ones. I'm currently undoing everything on the driver's side, putting the original parts back together and back in so that we can drive it tomorrow. Friday/Saturday I'll attempt to take the passenger side axle extension/drive shaft out so that I can hopefully see through the transmission and maybe position the snap ring on the driver's side to get it out.

 

that passenger side will likely be more resistant to removal than the drivers side.

lets hope luck is on your side.

 

Thanks. The saga has come to an end, at least for now. The test drive following putting the original driver side CV axle back in was completely smooth. At this point, the problem - vibration while the transmission was under load - has been resolved. I'm not going to do anything more with it until the vibration comes back. Thanks to all who offered advice. Anybody need a new CV axle?