I have a '13 with 82k miles. At what point do I need to worry about the cylinder deactivation issues / ECO mode? I know guys say you should get the muzzler but there are a ton of these on the road with no issues. I keep the van well maintained by the dealer and have a good extended warranty. If any drivetrain issues arise, I am sure they will bill it under the warranty.
FinishLine
How lucky do you feel? You have a van from the era that Honda recognized the problem was frequent enough that they extended the warranty to 8 years/120K miles if the problem should develop. Because the VCM II system operates based on parameters that mean the amount of activation time varies widely from one van to the next, how much yours has been activated is anybody's guess, but the bottom line is a year from now or less Honda will have wiped their hands of responsibility for your van and it's all on you. If you are about done with it then don't bother, but if you plan to keep it another 5-10 years and 100K+ miles do you want to take the chance that you need major engine work when it could be prevented?
On the VCM-2 models, which is what you have, the complaints about fouled plugs and misfires start rolling in around 70K miles, sometimes earlier. Some people are lucky and the problem never gets bad enough for them to notice, but the problem is still there. The system is not flawless on ANYBODY's VCM-2 Odyssey even if they don't notice a problem.
If you are going to sell the van after the warranty expires, doesn't matter. If you plan on keeping it long term, disable the VCM.
If you are going to sell the van after the warranty expires, doesn't matter. If you plan on keeping it long term, disable the VCM.
2015 Touring, bought one year back with ultra low mileage. Even so, first thing I did was ordered a VCM Tuner II unit from vcmtuner.com before even getting WeatherTech mat and dashcams. Took 15 minutes or so to install it, not at all hard. Majority of the time I spent was to find a better positioning of the bracket that holds the unit. No intervention at all, and the instructions state there is possibly some enhancements in the future. Cost is about USD 125 incl shipping. Never seen the eco light even once. Also not seen any drop in fuel economy too.
My 2008 has 17x,xxx miles
I have installed the vcmuzzler, uninstalled it, reinstalled it, and uninstalled it again.
While it’s installed, the eco light stays off but gas mileage isn’t quite as good.
When the vcmuzzler is not installed, the amount of burned up oil is significantly higher...
I’m not sure the mileage is that much different to warrant the vcm feature but (quite literally): YMMV.
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I have installed the vcmuzzler, uninstalled it, reinstalled it, and uninstalled it again.
While it’s installed, the eco light stays off but gas mileage isn’t quite as good.
When the vcmuzzler is not installed, the amount of burned up oil is significantly higher...
I’m not sure the mileage is that much different to warrant the vcm feature but (quite literally): YMMV.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a 2013 and issues first appeared at around 95k miles. Dealer serviced for it's entire life. Replaced plugs, happened again after about 4k-5k miles. Same cylinder. Replaced plugs, muzzled, and it's been good for the last 12k miles and counting.
This is what I bought. It comes with a variable resistor.
Is this correct for a 2013 Ody or is there another version?
Is this correct for a 2013 Ody or is there another version?
VCMTUNER for 2007+ Honda 3.5L I-VTEC - Disable VCM / ECO mode
Product ID: VCM1001 (STANDARD), VCMT1000 (CARB) In Stock. Read Reviews | Vehicle Fitment List Canada orders: CanadaPost on strike again - we are processing orders again to Canada as of 6/26/2025 but expect some delays longer than 7-10 business days. Canada Tariffs from USA to Canada can be...
www.vcmtuner.com
82k and never Muzzled, I would consider checking your sparkplugs very closely and likely replacing while you're at it. OEM from the dealer or RockAuto only (LOTS of counterfeit plugs out there, watch out!). And you might want to run SeaFoam, Techtron, whatever in the next few tanks to try and burn out any junk sitting on your pistons, etc. If you really want to get into it you could do a piston soak to be sure...
As time goes on I think we'll see a lot more of this generation Odyssey up for sale in the mid to higher mileage range that are burning oil and likely have un-diagnosed VCM damage, and people will be popping up here trying to figure out how to deal with it; and at the point it's likely too late. I'm sure some well maintained examples will be generally "okay," but I'm not willing to take that risk with our investment.
And what gas mileage you might get Muzzled may surprise you, on the highway we actually get better mileage Muzzled than we do un-Muzzled. Around town it's hard to know for sure, I suspect our mileage has decreased in the start/stop situations with the Muzzle but I could care less as our '16 EXL still gets a lot better mileage than our '03 EXL did regardless!
Good luck!
As time goes on I think we'll see a lot more of this generation Odyssey up for sale in the mid to higher mileage range that are burning oil and likely have un-diagnosed VCM damage, and people will be popping up here trying to figure out how to deal with it; and at the point it's likely too late. I'm sure some well maintained examples will be generally "okay," but I'm not willing to take that risk with our investment.
And what gas mileage you might get Muzzled may surprise you, on the highway we actually get better mileage Muzzled than we do un-Muzzled. Around town it's hard to know for sure, I suspect our mileage has decreased in the start/stop situations with the Muzzle but I could care less as our '16 EXL still gets a lot better mileage than our '03 EXL did regardless!
Good luck!
Yes, it is possible to have no problems with non-muzzled VCM Odysseys. It is also possible to have 2nd generation Odysseys without transmission problems. Our first Odyssey was a 1999 EX, had no transmission problems, did go through a few motor mounts though, it did get rattly after being rear ended while stopped at a crosswalk, then rear ended while parked and unoccupied in a lot, sold the van with 230,000 miles. Our second van was a 2006 EX-L that was going strong and rattle free and met its untimely demise at 235,000 miles when rear ended on the freeway (we did have to replace the very expensive active motor mounts a few times).
After being van free (empty nesters) for a year we bought our second hand 2015 EX-L with around 40K miles and muzzled it the first month of ownership. Yes, there is a hit on MPG, but the engine seems to perform more powerfully, and hopefully this will decrease wear and tear on the active motor mounts and also stave off engine woes. I realize that not all non-muzzled vans are destined to engine problems, but I think that the purchase price of the Muzzling device (whichever one you choose) is insignificant relative to the cost of motor mounts or engine repairs.
Just my 2 cents worth. Many think I have no sense at all.
After being van free (empty nesters) for a year we bought our second hand 2015 EX-L with around 40K miles and muzzled it the first month of ownership. Yes, there is a hit on MPG, but the engine seems to perform more powerfully, and hopefully this will decrease wear and tear on the active motor mounts and also stave off engine woes. I realize that not all non-muzzled vans are destined to engine problems, but I think that the purchase price of the Muzzling device (whichever one you choose) is insignificant relative to the cost of motor mounts or engine repairs.
Just my 2 cents worth. Many think I have no sense at all
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I'm at approx 60k on my '16.
So the idea to to mash the pedal not give ECO a chance to come one?
So the idea to to mash the pedal not give ECO a chance to come one?
I installed the S-VCM Controller a couple years back on my 2014 and have never seen the ECO light again - no tweaking required. I also installed an on/off switch in case I needed to take it to the dealer and didn't want them questioning it - but never have turned it off and they've never noticed.
After buying my used 2008 Honda Odyssey in July 2020, I registered with this forum, and the first piece of advice I read was with the VCM. I did not like the feeling of the ECO coming on while coasting to a stoplight and when it turned green before I came to a complete stop, stepping on the gas, my Honda just was not responsive enough. I ended up revving it to get out of ECO mode. That's when I decided to just go with the VCM Tuner II for $120, It came in about a week, installed relatively easy, and ECO mode has no longer appeared. My Honda is much more responsive like it should be, as I step on the gas the Honda will go and not sit there deciding should it move faster or not. I have noticed a hit on my gas mileage, a drop of 20 miles on each fill-up. My last oil change was in July and I currently have 80% oil. I am very happy with my VCM Tuner II, even with the 20 miles hit on each fillup, I have a much more responsive Honda with good pedal-power sync, no more revving up just for it to go faster to get out of ECO mode!
Are there any warning signs to distinguish if VCM is causing damage vs doesn't seem to be bothering my vehicle?
Have a 2013 EX-L with 113k, had it since 100k. Timing belt service was recently performed including new spark plugs.
No known engine issues including oil loss. Everything seems really smooth.
Also, what is the relationship between the ECO light and the VCM causing damage that everyone seems so emphatic about?
Feel free to link to other threads and not retype info that may already be out there.
Thanks
Have a 2013 EX-L with 113k, had it since 100k. Timing belt service was recently performed including new spark plugs.
No known engine issues including oil loss. Everything seems really smooth.
Also, what is the relationship between the ECO light and the VCM causing damage that everyone seems so emphatic about?
Feel free to link to other threads and not retype info that may already be out there.
Thanks
Here's a technical explanation of what is happening.
Stay or Go - 2007 one owner EX-L
My 2007 EX-L has never been never a daily driver. Bought it mostly for trips with the family with occasional forays into town, and its 120,000 miles have been relatively problem free. It's a great car in many respects and I do marvel at the value received. But the day I bought it and learned...
www.odyclub.com
Please forgive the snark in this post. The information is correct.
Used Touring VS EX-L
New here! 3 kids coming so need to get a used minivan, first time, most likely being Odyssey. Looking at 2015/2016 lower mileage one. Been thinking of getting Touring for all the features. But realistically how useful are the extra stuffs on Touring VS EX-L? Leather seats I do want, plus any...
www.odyclub.com
I also find it somewhat hard to believe that anybody's VCM works flawlessly. It's not one of those things, like a camshaft oil seal, that you didn't replace when doing the timing belt, taking the chance that it wouldn't start leaking in the next 105K miles. The camshaft oil seal either works or it doesn't. The VCM is kind of like, you know the camshaft oil seal is leaking, but you're not going to replace it hoping that the leak doesn't get so bad in the next 105K miles that it shreds the timing belt. There's a big difference between something that either works or doesn't work, and something that doesn't work but you're hoping won't become a big problem.
I have a VCM-1 engine that was never covered under Honda's recall and not nearly as many people report piston ring problems with VCM-1 than VCM-2. When I changed my spark plugs around 84K miles, the rear 3 were noticeably more worn than the front 3, particularly the rear center plug. On VCM-1, the rear 3 are what shuts off when VCM is activated. If VCM was working flawlessly, all 6 spark plugs should have worn at the same rate. Just because your car's VCM might not wear your spark plugs down to a level that causes a misfire, doesn't mean that your spark plugs aren't being worn down disproportionately fast on VCM cylinders.
I have a VCM-1 engine that was never covered under Honda's recall and not nearly as many people report piston ring problems with VCM-1 than VCM-2. When I changed my spark plugs around 84K miles, the rear 3 were noticeably more worn than the front 3, particularly the rear center plug. On VCM-1, the rear 3 are what shuts off when VCM is activated. If VCM was working flawlessly, all 6 spark plugs should have worn at the same rate. Just because your car's VCM might not wear your spark plugs down to a level that causes a misfire, doesn't mean that your spark plugs aren't being worn down disproportionately fast on VCM cylinders.
Having your fourth generation Odyssey run the way that Honda intended it to is setting a pretty low standard. It is very much within the reach of Joe Q Public Odyssey owner to make their van run better than Honda intended. It's not difficult to do, nor is it expensive to do. Here's how you do it - ready?
1. Disable VCM2. You will save your engine mounts, spark plugs and piston rings a lot of grief. You will have a more responsive engine. You will have a smoother engine. You will almost certainly not suffer a fuel economy penalty. Like I said before, if VCM is not saving you any fuel, IT SERVES NO OTHER PURPOSE. It becomes an unnecessary complication in the engine's operation. Even if it saves you some small amount of fuel, that needs to be balanced against the cost replacing the active engine mounts (assuming you get lucky and don't suffer from the stuck rings and fouled spark plugs). Changing spark plugs early becomes as laughable as it sounds.
One-time cost = roughly $100.
2. Drain and fill the automatic transmission fluid regularly. Honda originally intended for the ATF to be serviced every 50,000 miles. The results of that recommendation were so wonderful that Honda changed it to every 30,000 miles, and will even do it for you for free if you complain about it the right way. But it's an easy job to DIY.
Total cost = about $30 a year
That's it. That's the entire list. Over ten years, you're in for $400. For forty bucks a year, you alone can make your Odyssey better than what Honda gave you when you drove it off the showroom floor. Easy peasy. And believe me, I do understand and sympathize with how hard it can be to wrap your head around the idea that your shiny new vehicle was not the best it could possibly be on the day it rolled off the assembly line. But it's true - every single gen 4 Odyssey ever produced was not realizing its full potential when it was brand new.
Whatever mileage goal you've got, you'll get there if you do these two things.
1. Disable VCM2. You will save your engine mounts, spark plugs and piston rings a lot of grief. You will have a more responsive engine. You will have a smoother engine. You will almost certainly not suffer a fuel economy penalty. Like I said before, if VCM is not saving you any fuel, IT SERVES NO OTHER PURPOSE. It becomes an unnecessary complication in the engine's operation. Even if it saves you some small amount of fuel, that needs to be balanced against the cost replacing the active engine mounts (assuming you get lucky and don't suffer from the stuck rings and fouled spark plugs). Changing spark plugs early becomes as laughable as it sounds.
One-time cost = roughly $100.
2. Drain and fill the automatic transmission fluid regularly. Honda originally intended for the ATF to be serviced every 50,000 miles. The results of that recommendation were so wonderful that Honda changed it to every 30,000 miles, and will even do it for you for free if you complain about it the right way. But it's an easy job to DIY.
Total cost = about $30 a year
That's it. That's the entire list. Over ten years, you're in for $400. For forty bucks a year, you alone can make your Odyssey better than what Honda gave you when you drove it off the showroom floor. Easy peasy. And believe me, I do understand and sympathize with how hard it can be to wrap your head around the idea that your shiny new vehicle was not the best it could possibly be on the day it rolled off the assembly line. But it's true - every single gen 4 Odyssey ever produced was not realizing its full potential when it was brand new.
Whatever mileage goal you've got, you'll get there if you do these two things.
I gotta say that I am a believer in the muzzling of the VCM. I may have already shared this, but my car had issues somewhere around 95k miles. Turns out it was piston rings and fouled plugs. They replaced plugs only b/c my 2013 didn't qualify for the extended class action warranty. 4-5k miles later, same thing happened. This time, and after educating myself on this forum, I installed the S-VCM and replaced the plugs on my own. Cylinder 2 plug was covered in oil. For the last 12k miles or so, the car has been trouble-free. I checked the plugs a couple of months ago and they were still clean, including problem cylinder 2.
The transmission also was a little jerky, so I did the drain-fill routine with Valvoline MaxLife recently and it's nice and smooth now.
All that to say that I am a strong proponent of CroMath's recommendation. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Or, in this case, $400 of prevention is worth $4000 of cure.
The transmission also was a little jerky, so I did the drain-fill routine with Valvoline MaxLife recently and it's nice and smooth now.
All that to say that I am a strong proponent of CroMath's recommendation. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Or, in this case, $400 of prevention is worth $4000 of cure.
Barry, welcome! So the VCM Tuner II seems to be the best all around option. I run an S-VCM on our '16 and it's been great but the Tuner II has an auto disconnect feature for start/stop traffic that's nice to have.
VERY easy to install, you tools really necessary. You unplug one thingie, plug the Muzzle in between this plug and into the engine and you're done. You'll be running on all six cylinders all the time, save your motor mounts and likely save yourself very painful repairs in the future. If you really want to "know," pull the effected plugs and check to see how they compare to the others, I think you'll be surprised.
And once you do the install, a few gas tanks with Tectron, SeaFoam or the like wouldn't hurt.
Once this is done, how's your shifting and your transmission? Read up on the absolute NEED to be updating your ATF/Transmission Fluid on your Odyssey and how easy it is to do yourself and save a bundle. Really little skill necessary, the easiest maintenance you can do and it will likely make a huge difference in your driving experience.
Good luck!
VERY easy to install, you tools really necessary. You unplug one thingie, plug the Muzzle in between this plug and into the engine and you're done. You'll be running on all six cylinders all the time, save your motor mounts and likely save yourself very painful repairs in the future. If you really want to "know," pull the effected plugs and check to see how they compare to the others, I think you'll be surprised.
And once you do the install, a few gas tanks with Tectron, SeaFoam or the like wouldn't hurt.
Once this is done, how's your shifting and your transmission?
Read up on the absolute NEED to be updating your ATF/Transmission Fluid on your Odyssey and how easy it is to do yourself and save a bundle. Really little skill necessary, the easiest maintenance you can do and it will likely make a huge difference in your driving experience.Good luck!
So, after having the VCMTUNER II installed on my 2015 EX-L, when I need engine mount replacements all four or only two should be passive mounts rather than ACM?
So, the 2005-2010 Odyssey had VCM on EX-L and Touring models, but LX and EX models did not have VCM. Therefore, Honda manufactured both active and passive mounts for these years (for use in different trims).
But, starting 2011, there were no such thing as non-VCM Odysseys. So there is no passive mount option for your 2015. If you need engine mount replacements, you will need the active mounts.
But, starting 2011, there were no such thing as non-VCM Odysseys. So there is no passive mount option for your 2015. If you need engine mount replacements, you will need the active mounts.
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