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I read every post, and don't see where he found the cause of his noise. And I get the sense problems like this happen frequently to the starter of that thread, perhaps associated with a somewhat impatient approach to the work.
 
In the process of transferring white marks I had in the original belt I clamped them side by side so that it will not slide off, I was very careful about that, I compared both belt lengths during the process it was the same, not longer after I installed the aisin mitsuboshi belt, I made several (10 times or more) checking the timing marks it was dead on, then I buttoned it up. In the second inspection when I realized garbling noise, I opened up the cover idler pulley side was very tight, looseness only happens between two camshaft sprockets where water pump is, other places seems to be ok as far as tightness concerned, HT shaft seemed to me little bit overextended, but timing marks were dead on, if there was stretch in the belt it could have been timing mark slightly off but it is not..
Bottom line, hopefully when she reaches to 300K if have change timing belt again, as suggested, I would replace oem belt and HT tensioner, I would not touch water pump and pulleys, that should address the noise
I re-read your original post and this (above) several times to make sure I understand what you did. So..

Did you replace the Aisin water pump and timing belt with a Honda water pump & timing belt from majestic honda after discovering the noise?
Did those two parts from Majestic Honda address your belt looseness and noise issue?

It sounded like you ordered the parts from Majestic but decided not to do anything with it.

I followed your links and read up on some of stuff those were talking about. From my understanding of their conversation, they were blaming the alignment issue on the Aisin water pump mount for not having a flattened boss to mount the Tensioner Pulley. I copy and paste the quote here for everyone to see

"I have steered away from Aisin kit because the tensioner pulley got noisy over time, even though it is the same Koyo pulley. I believe the problem is in the water pump not having a flattened and shaved boss to mount the tensioner pulley, causing it to mis-align with the timing belt slightly. There was a "warbling" sound while on the Aisin kit, after switching back to the OEM kit recently at 305000 miles, that noise is gone. The Aisin water pump's blade also isn't mounted flush to the driveshaft like the OEM's for some reason (picture included). The Mitsuboshi timing belt held up just fine, the idler pulley actually has the same exact Koyo pulley as the tensioner's, just with different mount pressed on in the center. The Aisin hydraulic tensioner didn't leak either after 4 years and 100k miles of usage. "

If you decided to do nothing about your timing belt looseness, then I would be worry.
That part from the front cam pulley to the water pump and the rear cam pulley should be real tight to a point that I had to loosen the water pump to get the 1st cog of the belt onto the 1st groove of the rear cam pulley. Many 1st time DIYers would back it up half a cog in order to fit it onto the rear cam pulley and end up with a huge installation mistake.
 
Just adding this. Might as well get it all in this thread. Could be helpful to some.

Oddly I didn't have this issue that I could see/hear.

TSB; Chirp from lower TB area; 2005 - 08 all, some 2009

It says it affects all 05-08 Odysseys, but like you, I don't recall ever having this issue both before and after my timing belt was replaced.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
The kit I got was from aisin on amazon. I know that the mitsuboshi timing belt isn't oem. The Unitta (Gates) is the oem manufacturer. The water pump is aisin and is the oem for our model year (they have since switched to yamada). The bearings I got were koyo which is oem. The tensioner I am not sure of. My only complaint when getting the kit was on the water pump. There was silicone under the rubber gasket and it looked old, was hard and it made the gasket uneven. My research at the time showed that there shouldn't be any silicone under the gasket so I removed the rubber gasket and carefully removed all of the silicone, put the rubber gasket back. It was now even and I installed it on the car without any problems. The only thing I can think of is that there are a lot of these kits and maybe they have been sitting for a while. You initially didn't have any problems, but developed problems after 2000 miles. Since the belt and tensioner aren't oem, I would start there. You could try an oem tensioner without havening to take everything apart. The tensioner might have gotten weak. If not, then I think the belt would be the culprit.
 
The kit I got was from aisin on amazon. I know that the mitsuboshi timing belt isn't oem. The Unitta (Gates) is the oem manufacturer. The water pump is aisin and is the oem for our model year (they have since switched to yamada). The bearings I got were koyo which is oem. The tensioner I am not sure of. My only complaint when getting the kit was on the water pump. There was silicone under the rubber gasket and it looked old, was hard and it made the gasket uneven. My research at the time showed that there shouldn't be any silicone under the gasket so I removed the rubber gasket and carefully removed all of the silicone, put the rubber gasket back. It was now even and I installed it on the car without any problems. The only thing I can think of is that there are a lot of these kits and maybe they have been sitting for a while. You initially didn't have any problems, but developed problems after 2000 miles. Since the belt and tensioner aren't oem, I would start there. You could try an oem tensioner without havening to take everything apart. The tensioner might have gotten weak. If not, then I think the belt would be the culprit.
Well, his real problem is not the noise, but it's the looseness between the front cam pulley and rear cam pulley (water pump area as described by him). Looseness means it can skip a tooth or two then game is over.
 
Mitsuboshi does not currently make Honda's OEM belt, but they have in the past.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
Discussion starter · #28 ·
If you decided to do nothing about your timing belt looseness, then I would be worry.
That part from the front cam pulley to the water pump and the rear cam pulley should be real tight to a point that I had to loosen the water pump to get the 1st cog of the belt onto the 1st groove of the rear cam pulley. Many 1st time DIYers would back it up half a cog in order to fit it onto the rear cam pulley and end up with a huge installation mistake.
@celicool, I ordered the waterpump and belt from majestic honda, while they are on their way, I made more research on the problem, then I decided not to install oem belt and water pump since it requires draining coolant and resetting HT (which I heard if you press it not proper way it might leak later, then I decided to not to use them and returned for refund. Meanwhile I read most of the feedback that aisin kit would be fine.

During the process of removal of oem belt, when timing mark was set, timing mark transferred with white marker to old belt then I used battery clamp rod to press HT to remove the old oem belt then I removed it without cutting it since transferring timing marks needs the belt intact, after that I did not touch camshaft sprocket since I heard some people try to turn half cog so that they can install new belt, but those sprockets are in high tension it might spring back (I read some people experienced that, during the new belt installation, I aligned transferred timing marks rear and front camshaft then routed the new belt idler bearing, crankshaft then tensioner side, but crankshaft sprocket side tight to put it, what I did was I let idler bearing side loose so that I could slide crankshaft side then I tightened idler bearing to the torque.
The interesting side is when I open cover in second time, timing marks are dead on, but water pump side not always loose it get really tight most of the time, some certain position it get loose..that behavior create noise I believe.
The bottom line, I learn to live with it, it is what it is..
 
@celicool, I ordered the waterpump and belt from majestic honda, while they are on their way, I made more research on the problem, then I decided not to install oem belt and water pump since it requires draining coolant and resetting HT (which I heard if you press it not proper way it might leak later, then I decided to not to use them and returned for refund. Meanwhile I read most of the feedback that aisin kit would be fine.

During the process of removal of oem belt, when timing mark was set, timing mark transferred with white marker to old belt then I used battery clamp rod to press HT to remove the old oem belt then I removed it without cutting it since transferring timing marks needs the belt intact, after that I did not touch camshaft sprocket since I heard some people try to turn half cog so that they can install new belt, but those sprockets are in high tension it might spring back (I read some people experienced that, during the new belt installation, I aligned transferred timing marks rear and front camshaft then routed the new belt idler bearing, crankshaft then tensioner side, but crankshaft sprocket side tight to put it, what I did was I let idler bearing side loose so that I could slide crankshaft side then I tightened idler bearing to the torque.
The interesting side is when I open cover in second time, timing marks are dead on, but water pump side not always loose it get really tight most of the time, some certain position it get loose..that behavior create noise I believe.
The bottom line, I learn to live with it, it is what it is..
Thanks for answering my questions! that really cleared things up.

How many marks did you transfer over to the new belt?
I know you must transfer over at least 2 marks from the front cam and rear cam. Did you have a 3rd mark?

Your way of routing the timing belt is somewhat unconventional, but I understand why--you did not want to deal with the half cog situation at the rear cam pulley. Instead you wanted to deal with it at the idler. That is fine as long as you have the 3rd mark reference to (ideally the 1st cog/bottom) the crankshaft.

Although I endorse marking the timing belt, it's not my preferred practice. I don't mark the timing belt and always start at the bottom center of the crankshaft and go counterclockwise. As long as I keep the belt tension tight, the first cog that falls into the groove of the front cam pulley will hold the tension. Everything should be fine and dandy until I get to the rear cam pulley (this is where the half cog situation occurred and I had to loosen the water pump to get the half cog onto the rear cam pulley). Someone with strong hands like SMA doesn't seem to have the half cog issue, but that has not been the case for me. I have done it twice and have encountered it twice.

I do not know if normal operation of the timing belt will sometimes have a looseness as you described, but it sure worry me that it is not normal.
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
How many marks did you transfer over to the new belt?
I know you must transfer over at least 2 marks from the front cam and rear cam. Did you have a 3rd mark?
I transferred two marks and put letter R and F, rear and front respectively and line marks that aligned camshaft sprockets mark, then transferred those to the new belt, I did not mark 3rd one on crankshaft

In your way you make your routing conventional way but letting water pump bolts loose so that so can wiggle it to install timing belt to rear camshaft sprocket is new to me, I thought you will have access issue to those WP bolts once the belt routed and installed, besides since you are dealing with aluminum body if you let water pump bolts loose then under tension tighen them might make some bolt threads stripped since you deal with soft aluminum body.
 
I transferred two marks and put letter R and F, rear and front respectively and line marks that aligned camshaft sprockets mark, then transferred those to the new belt, I did not mark 3rd one on crankshaft

In your way you make your routing conventional way but letting water pump bolts loose so that so can wiggle it to install timing belt to rear camshaft sprocket is new to me, I thought you will have access issue to those WP bolts once the belt routed and installed, besides since you are dealing with aluminum body if you let water pump bolts loose then under tension tighen them might make some bolt threads stripped since you deal with sott aluminum body.
It sounding more like the belt is the issue. The belt might have been slightly longer than the oem belt, but good enough not to cause any problems at first. Then after 2000 miles it might have stretched a little and caused the issues you are having. I just watched a video on some of the quality of the aisin kits. Very interesting. Maybe you can contact them or rock auto for assistance.

 
To OP,

I believe your timing belt kit installation is spot on. You did everything right. Highly doubt those belt stretches to the point of causing failure. They are not built that way. They will crack and fail but not stretch. The culprit seems to be the Aisin kit itself is missing a Honda TSB part - a shim - that is required for those years. So, if that kit did not have it, the noise is likely to occur which it did in your case.

I think this is your issue....Fast forward to 3 min. mark...

That Honda TSB is mentioned here...2006 Honda Odyssey Technical Service Bulletins

Which links to this....http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/A08-045.PDF
 
+1 for the warbling sound on my Aisin TB kit…
thought it was the serpentine belt tensioner but looking more like the issue is with the aisin timing belt
If you take off the belt and run the engine, warble sound present would be from water pump. If serpentine belt tensioner, it is not part of any kit. Have got warble sound from even Toyota OEM parts before, which were replaced with Aisin parts in all our toyota and honda vehicles. So far no issues.
 
Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)
Honda TSB is for idler bearing but when I had second inspection, I looked at the from timing cover if there is scuff marks on it and lower timing cover as well, also side of of the timing belt should be worn due to rubbing, there were none, that means the belt is not touching cover or misaligned
About removing serpentine belt and look for noise, I recently replaced serpentine belt tensioner and oem serpentine belt, but the noise is still there.. It is definitely coming from timing belt section (WP for specific)
 
I transferred two marks and put letter R and F, rear and front respectively and line marks that aligned camshaft sprockets mark, then transferred those to the new belt, I did not mark 3rd one on crankshaft

In your way you make your routing conventional way but letting water pump bolts loose so that so can wiggle it to install timing belt to rear camshaft sprocket is new to me, I thought you will have access issue to those WP bolts once the belt routed and installed, besides since you are dealing with aluminum body if you let water pump bolts loose then under tension tighen them might make some bolt threads stripped since you deal with soft aluminum body.
I believe in order for your marking to be effective, you must use 3 point referencing system. Otherwise, how do you know if you have correct #s of cog/teeth between the front cam pulley and the crankshaft. It is especially important in your scenario because you chose to wiggle the belt in at the idler.

The conventional way of routing the timing belt is counterclockwise starting from crankshaft (where the belt is locked in) and all the slack is being moved pass the Idler, front cam pulley, water pump, rear cam pulley then the slack is being stretched out by the tensioner bearing and held in place by the Hydraulic Tensioner.

No problem with loosen the water pump bolts while the timing belt is routing, and I am able to reach every bolt. The water pump just needs some wiggle room to get the half cog onto the rear cam pulley. It was a stress free procedure. I learned this trick from this forum but can't recall who first mentioned it. In contrary to some stories you hear on this forum, it is not easy for the rear cam to spring forward. They must have exerted excessive force to get it springing forward. In addition, I always leave the plugs in so things don't move around easily by themselves.

While it appears that your installation was correct. Your description of the belt looseness causing the water pump to slip, leads me to believe that something is seriously wrong with your timing belt operation.
 
I found this picture which someone posted on this board awhile back. I don't recall the author's name, but it is useful if you are marking your timing belt.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
@celicool, thank you for sharing the information, I found the image you sent during the investigation of garble noise, I counted the number of cogs on the removed belt (original one), it was 64 that means I marked and transferred them correct to the aisin belt (that is between rear and front camshaft)
My difficulty with crankshaft was where to take reference outer edge bottom, side therefore I did not mark it, besides If my number of cogs between front camshaft and crankshaft one cogs longer, would it throw crankshaft sensor error? so far there is no error thrown, also I did installation error why the others are having the same noise problem, are they doing it wrong as well? I dont think so, I believe that the kit has some problem it is not as genuine as oem but reliabile
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
UPDATE on garbling sound is gone once I switched to OEM belt and water pump, it was not installation error or something else.
Today I replaced Aisin belt and water pump with OEM, got it from dealer, the noise was bothering me and getting louder, considering the crazy prices of car nowadays, I did not want to risk to junk the car if timing belt jump or something happened related to timing components go wrong.
I guess take of this story is that anything crucial to operation of the engine (timing components, sensors etc.) always go for OEM, you will cry once for the price but you will be doing the job once and be done with that.
I hope this help someone.
 
FYI,

For anyone reading this and intrigued by the timing belt. The top of the belt between the rear cam and front cam aligns between the belt teeth. So count 64 teeth between the rear cam mark and the front cam mark. The right side of the belt between the front cam and crankshaft aligns between the teeth at the top but on the tooth at the bottom. So on the right side, count 68 teeth including the bottom most tooth. The bottom most belt tooth should be aligned straight down 6 o'clock and directly across from the Woodruff Key which should be vertical up at 12 o'clock and pointing to the oil pump mark.

When I did my first TB I was forced to cut the old belt and just made new marks on the new belt. I marked two teeth for the rear cam, again aligns between the teeth. I marked two teeth for the front cam, also aligns between the teeth. I marked one tooth for the crankshaft. I hope that helps someone.

P.S. My Rockauto Aisin kit makes no bad noises.
 
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