Oil = Castrol Edge or Mobil 1
Power steering = OEM Honda
Transmission = OEM Honda
Brake = OEM Honda
Blinker = whatever's on sale 😂

There are good alternatives to OEM - for ATF, Amsoil, Valvoline Max Life, Red Line, etc... For Power Steering Lucas is supposed to be OK. I would be comfortable to change to a non-OEM option if I found a benefit it to it.

Edit

Engine coolant = OEM Honda

Coolant can be very sensitive in terms of chemical reactions - a gen 4 Ody has the blue stuff from the factory, so mixing in the green one is generally considered a no-no. But I've heard that the Pentosin blue coolant works OK.

This usually only becomes a problem in emergency situations - "I've noticed that my radiator or overflow bottle is empty and my dad has a jug of green Prestone sitting in his garage. Can I use it?" NO!

In a maintenance or repair situation where there's time to prepare, the OEM coolant is considered so good and durable that moving to an aftermarket choice in hopes of finding something better just doesn't make sense. Cheaper maybe, but not better.

 

Valvoline MaxLife ATF
Honda OEM power steering fluid
Mobile 1 or Valvoline synthetic oil 0w-20
Valvoline dot 3/4 synthetic brake fluid
Honda OEM coolant (or Asian Zerex Blue Honda version if I was going cheaper)

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Valvoline MaxLife ATF
Honda OEM power steering fluid
Mobile 1 or Valvoline synthetic oil 0w-20
Valvoline dot 3/4 synthetic brake fluid
Honda OEM coolant (or Asian Zerex Blue Honda version if I was going cheaper)

This list is almost exactly what I use.

ATF - generally safest to use Genuine specified stuff, but Honda ATF has a history of not being so great (on my '99 the spec was originally Z-1 until they were giving out new ATs like free coffee in the waiting room, and switched the spec to DW-1), and MaxLife has been widely tested by people on this forum with good results. So I use MaxLife, with RedGard added - ONLY because of the good reports on this forum, I don't think I know any better. Has worked for me for a long time now with no problems.

PSF - I use genuine Honda PSF. One of the very few fluids where I go genuine. There are a couple of compatible alternatives. But be very careful here. Regular PSF off the shelf is not what you want. And many cars, especially Japanese brands, use a DEXRON-type ATF for PSF, but not these Hondas. This is one of those times where if you don't know, you should be very cautious about thinking that the guy at the parts store will steer you right. Steer ... LOL

Engine oil - use 0W-20 synthetic of whatever brand you want. Unlimited opinions out there regarding this. Generally, I'd say engine oil hardly matters at all since engine problems with Hondas are usually not the main thing to worry about. But it is a reminder that there are engine problems on these, and more important than fluid brands is to get a VCM defeat device of some sort, or engine problems are likely to result.

Brake fluid - DOT 3 or 4, changing regularly, brand not important

Coolant - all colors in glycol based coolants are artificially added. Some coolants are not compatible and mixing them will cause gelling (i.e., huge problems). I use the same Peak (green) Long Life ethylene glycol in multiple cars, just for convenience. So (differing from the prevailing opinions you will see on this forum), I did a careful flush to get the blue stuff out (did not need to be too careful since the Honda blue and Peak LL green will not react, but I was anyway), and filled with green. I promise I'll report back if any of my cars ever blow up. If I only had this one car, or if all my cars were Hondas, I'd stick with the Honda blue.

 

For the 'rare' fluids, just use Honda OEM - brake, PS, coolant. Zero risk and not crazy expensive when you realize how rarely they are needed.

Trans fluid: OEM, Valvoline Maxlife or Amsoil
Engine oil: Honda OEM or better (see the Bob is the Oil Guy forums - it is a never-ending rabbit hole of information)

Also, remember oil filters too - Honda OEM is a good bet, but there are good aftermarket options too.

-Charlie

 

Based on feedback from many threads on this forum I am sticking with Honda OEM for Power Steering, ATF and Coolant.
I use QuakerState engine oil, ATE Type 200 Blue DOT 4 brake fluid (bought it, yet to finish the work). RainX for windshield wasgher.

Not tried yet but I have these on my notes for my next change.
1. Gasoline Additive - Amsoil PI performance or Techron Concentrate or Sea Foam Marine Auto Flush
2. Engile Flush - Sea Foam Marine SF-16 (add to oil and can drive) or Liqui Moly 2037 Po-Line (idle only before oil change) or Lubegard 95030

 

Not tried yet but I have these on my notes for my next change.
1. Gasoline Additive - Amsoil PI performance or Techron Concentrate or Sea Foam Marine Auto Flush
2. Engile Flush - Sea Foam Marine SF-16 (add to oil and can drive) or Liqui Moly 2037 Po-Line (idle only before oil change) or Lubegard 95030

How long are you stretching the oil change intervals that you need to flush the lubrication system????????

 

Jiantao:

Brake fluid exchange is super easy with this Mityvac hand pump, in case you're interested. I've seen a lot of green fluid and black crud come out of brake lines in the handful of vehicles I've done... [emoji3525]

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all of the above...
have used these with good success.
Pentosin Pentafrost Blue coolant as a substitute for OEM
Lucas power steering fluid as a substitute for OEM
ATE TYP 200 DOT 4 brake fluid as a substitute for OEM.

 

Pentosin Pentafrost Blue coolant as a substitute for OEM

To be more specific, it's the Pentosin Pentofrost A3 blue coolant. There is also the Pentofrost NF blue coolant which I use in my Volvo. So don't just grab "the blue one."

 

225K miles on my 2011. Only Honda fluids I use are transmission fluid, power steering fluid and antifreeze. Been using Mobil1 from second oil change onward and no smoke or problems. Didn’t install my muzzler till about 150K miles and only because I felt I was living on borrowed time.

 

Awesome! Looks like oil is my choice and everything else should be OEM. Thank you!

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I did not know seafoam made a marine version. I do use the automotive version.

And Chevron techron makes a non-marine version, fuel system cleaner. I use that a lot.

I do have the Chevron Techron Marine fuel additive as well for a boat (has storage additive).

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I use OEM Honda for everything. And Castrol Magnatec for engine oil. Engine flushes are a scam, all new engine oils have detergents in it and are constantly cleaning the engine. If you change your oil regularly you don't have to worry about any flushes.

 

Engine Oil = Whatever full synthetic 0w20 is on sale from Pennzoil, Mobil 1, etc.

Tranny Oil = Valvoline Max Life ATF

Brake = Pentosin or DOT4 or better

Coolant = OEM Honda Coolant

 

I'm curious why you would trust Pentosin to make brake fluid to spec, Valvoline to make ATF to spec, but not trust either of them to make coolant to spec? They both offer coolant products they claim meet Honda specifications (as opposed to the coolant manufacturer "recommending").

 

As probably previously mentioned, either here or in a timing belt thread, the Odyssey has two heater cores and it is next to impossible to fully remove all the coolant. So using the real thing to mix in with the small amount of existing is a good idea. It is not even that expensive. Here is a link to the Bernardi Honda page on fluids:

Honda Fluids - Bernardi Parts Honda

www.bernardiparts.com

The coolant actually lasts to 120k (technically) but usually gets changed with the timing belt service because the water pump gets replaced.

Also, Newbies need to know that a high mileage Honda is one with over 200K. Just wait until the oil life reaches 15% and change the oil with whatever as long at it is to spec. This is not your grandpa's Oldsmobile. If you want to lavish maintenance on a Honda, change the trans fluid way more often that recommended. Even that recommendation is now every 30K. Every other oil change or every 15K can be prudent.

The fuel treatments offered up around here are to solve a problem. Usually vans with close to 100K, often with the experimental piston rings, run with lots of VCM engagement, and setting codes related to fouled spark plugs. If you have a newer model with lower miles, you can muzzle the VCM and save yourself a lot of headaches. By the way, it makes it way more fun to drive. So fun that your mileage may take a hit. But on the road with the family and driving reasonably, you will never even see a milage hit. Or at least I didn't.

 

As probably previously mentioned, either here or in a timing belt thread, the Odyssey has two heater cores and it is next to impossible to fully remove all the coolant. So using the real thing to mix in with the small amount of existing is a good idea. It is not even that expensive.

When you include the shipping, almost double the price of Zerex blue, made to meet Honda's spec, available at Walmart. But if anyone has greater faith in CCI to produce a coolant to meet Honda's spec than they do in Valvoline to meet the spec, it's their money. I will only put in car manufacturer's spec coolant, which used to mean jugs of Toyota and Honda coolant in my garage. But now that major chemical companies are making products that meet OE spec, I use them.

I hope no one is still buying engine oil with Honda's brand name on it, unless they get a super employee discount.🤑

 

I was wondering the same thing as Ted. There is nothing special about Honda's formula for coolant. As far as everything I have read goes, the Pentofrost A3 is the EXACT same coolant as Honda Type II. I believe the Zerex Asian is SLIGHTLY different, but it's still 99% the same coolant. The Zerex Asian is quite a bit cheaper than Honda's Type II. I didn't have enough time to research the differences between Zerex Asian and Pentofrost A3 last time, so I bought Pentofrost A3 from RockAuto for under $13. I can understand the aversion towards generic coolants, but Pentofrost A3 is not a generic coolant. From what I've read, it also seems to me that Zerex Asian is pretty much the same formula also.

Now, I haven't come across a power steering fluid that is cheaper than the OEM Honda one, so I'm going to use that. There are many out there that are compatible and people have had good results with, but given Honda's weak PS pumps, I'd be inclined to stick with Honda's OEM, especially if it's going to be the cheapest option.

 

Oil: SuperTech 5W-20. I've been using it for ages and it's worked fine. I did add Seafoam once and it flushed out a bunch of crud but that's more than likely due to sporadic/nonexistent oil changes from the previous owner. Oh, the stories my engine and transmission could tell...

Transmission: Honda ATF DW-1.

Coolant: Prestone universal. That's what the van had in it when we got it, and that's what I used when I replaced the radiator.

Power Steering: I don't trust anything except OEM. I tried using Idemitsu and the pump crapped out shortly after.

Brake: I just use whatever DOT3 I have lying around, as far as I'm concerned brand makes no difference.

Blinker: Yes.

To be honest I'm more concerned about fluid change intervals than the fluid itself, except in terms of the transmission and power steering. For me, those are OEM no matter what.

 

Stockholm

Is the super tech 5W-20 full synthetic?
Do you use 5W-20 bc it's thicker and it may extend the life of the engine?

I was thinking of switching from 0W-20 to 5W-20 full synthetic for better longevity.

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Is the super tech 5W-20 full synthetic?
Do you use 5W-20 bc it's thicker and it may extend the life of the engine?

I was thinking of switching from 0W-20 to 5W-20 full synthetic for better longevity.

I normally use conventional, but I will use the full synthetic on occasion. Controversial as this is, I haven't encountered oil leaks so I'm not worried. I use 5W-20 since that's what's recommended for my engine, in your case unless it calls for that specific grade of oil, stick with what's recommended and change it frequently.
I'm not sure if a thicker oil will help at all in terms of longevity, unless the engine is badly worn. At that point you got bigger problems

 

I believe the 2010 and older models specified 5W-20, and the 2011+ models specified 0W-20. I had thought that there was no major change in the engine between 2010 and 2011, though. I haven't read anything definitive that indicated something changed. There are claims that Honda used the low friction experimental piston rings on 2011-2013 models, but I assumed they were used on 2008-2010 EX-L and Touring models too, given they were affected by the same VCM warranty extension and Honda cited low friction piston rings as the cause for VCM issues. If anyone knows what specifically changed for 2011 to warrant the lower weight oil, I'd be interested to hear.

 

I use Amazon Basics SAE 0W-20 full synthetic and a Bosch 3323 filter. It is manufactured by Warren distribution and is rated as API SN Plus which compliments SN and ILSAC GF-5. It is significantly cheaper than other brands and works perfectly well. You really get no more benefits from using a more expensive motor oil when combined with the standard service intervals. The most important item to put money into in your oil system is the filter. Make sure you are using a high quality filter. I prefer the Bosch filter due to it's construction.

 

If you want the good fluid change vacuum assist systems get something from Motive (Home of Motive Products). I also use a vacuum to suck the motor oil out of the engine instead of draining it. Works like a champ.

 

Hey Ted. No I know about viscosity ratings. We just covered it a few weeks ago in an intro to auto mechanics class.

What I was learning though... is that the lower number, 0W or 5W, actually indicates the thickness of the base oil. While the 20 or 30 indicates how much thickening polymer is added to the oil to make it thicker at higher temperatures. So if you want a thicker base oil chemistry you need to go with a larger lower number.

Due to environmental regulations I believe thinner oils are used for MPG ratings. But I wanted to increase the longevity of my engine. And so I thought maybe a slightly thicker full synthetic base oil might help keep a nice thick lubricating film between metal parts in the engine. Too thin of oil and the lubricating film is not thick enough between metal parts.

The auto mechanics teacher did say they are seeing some premature engine wear with using the newer thinner 0W-20 synthetic oils. And the oil change intervals are longer as well. I was reducing my oil change intervals from 10K to about 5k or 7K miles. But I was also thinking about moving to a 5W-20 full synthetic oil. I don't live in cold climate. Otherwise I would probably stay with 0W-20 or go with 0W-30.

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It is true that the auto makers switched to the 0W-20 variants to improve engine running efficiency by reducing internal drag. Prime example is the 5.3L from GM. in 2004 and for several years after they used 5w-30 and then around 2017 they switched to 0W-20. This was also done for the displacement on demand systems as they do not "gum up" the valves/lifters as easily.

Both Toyota and Honda are working on promoting 0W-16 oils in the US and overseas they are looking at 0W-8 for some markets. At the moment, the 2018+ Camery calls for 0W-16. Currently, Honda is using 0W-16 in European markets to improve engine efficiency and is used in the Honda Accord Hybrid in the US. I expect to see more use of lighter oils moving forward with turbocharging, displacement on demand systems and drive for more efficient engines. All engines are designed by the manufacturers for use with specific oils.

Here is a great article on motor oils and if you are required to use a specific viscosity/weight: Truth about 5w-20 and 0W-20 Motor Oil - technical facts

The fact that a teacher is claiming they are seeing early engine wear is flat out contradicted by the oil performance. The performance of 5w-20 and 0w-20 is 0.1 centistokes different at 100 deg C which is the temperature at which oils are tested. The lighter weight synthetic is designed to help with cold engine startup actually. If you want the best system for lubrication, you should run a dry sump and kick on the oil pump prior to engine startup.

 

It's hard for me to want to put every detail of every conversation thread that I'm referring to.

In this Ody thread I was personally was asking about 0W-20 verse 5W-20.

With the auto teacher it was about 0W-20 versus 5W-30. Or just about general engine wear using 0W-20 nowadays versus in the past with using thicker oils. But the premature engine wear could also be co-related to long oil change intervals nowadays. I asked about that.

It's hard for me to put every detail down so that there's no confusion.

But I was referring to two different conversations that are somewhat related but not exactly the same.

I know the 0W part is good for cold startup. I know the 20 or 30 part is for high temperature engine running.

But a thicker oil will provide a thicker film between metal parts. A thinner oil and a thinner film means the metal will have more statistical amount of scraping/rubbing.

And I know a thinner oil is better for getting through small oil channels, etc.

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It's hard for me to want to put every detail of every conversation thread that I'm referring to.

In this Ody thread I was personally was asking about 0W-20 verse 5W-20.

With the auto teacher it was about 0W-20 versus 5W-30. Or just about general engine wear using 0W-20 nowadays versus in the past with using thicker oils. But the premature engine wear could also be co-related to long oil change intervals nowadays. I asked about that.

It's hard for me to put every detail down so that there's no confusion.

But I was referring to two different conversations that are somewhat related but not exactly the same.

I know the 0W part is good for cold startup. I know the 20 or 30 part is for high temperature engine running.

But a thicker oil will provide a thicker film between metal parts. A thinner oil and a thinner film means the metal will have more statistical amount of scraping/rubbing.

And I know a thinner oil is better for getting through small oil channels, etc.

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Oil lubricity is significantly based on how well it flows and is measured in centistokes. A 0.1 centistoke difference is virtually non-existent difference. I agree with your assessment on the rubbing/scraping, but you would need a significantly different variance in viscosity than 0.1 to see that affect.

 

Similar to the whole VCM thing, there are non-technical forces at work here that may explain some of the manufacturer decisions and recommendations.

Extended oil change interval - That is so they can sell more cars. Many buyers of new cars don't know the difference between 10W-30 and an MP3. But if the salesman says they'll save $xxx on their maintenance costs, or if they offer free regular oil changes for 3 years (and that = 3 oil changes), Honda sells more cars. Lifetime ATF is the extreme example of this.

Lower viscosity specs, both cold and warm - With lower viscosity, things will move more freely, impoving MPG at the expense of more engine wear. Nothing new here. Those things are always analyzed and balanced in any design. The non-technical external forces here are the gov't mandated required MPG and also $$ savings for the customer with higher MPG (that matters more with higher gas prices). Those factors push the design decision towards lower viscosity; but the end user may care more about longevity than MPG (similar to the VCM effects) and deciding towards higher viscosity may make sense for some individuals.

I just use 0W-20 (synthetic) because I've got enough other things to be concerned about and just follow the spec. But being in a pretty mild climate (NorCal), I would not worry about using 5W-20 if I needed oil and 0W-20 was not available.

 

I agree to an extent. Most users could not care less about longevity as they typically get rid of vehicles prior to even remotely coming close to their design life. Generally speaking most drivetrains are designed for around 200,000 mile life; far exceeding the vast majority of ownership and service warranties. That is why service warranties are such cash makers for manufacturers. Even the "lifetime" ATF or whatever fluid falls into this. It is not lifetime for the vehicle, but instead lifetime for the owner. The extension of service intervals was a really easy accomplishment since oil life is based largely the number of particles in a sample. Increase the amount of fluid and you can increase the length of interval. Improved filter design also attributes to this extension as well.

I totally agree that you would not see a difference in 5W-20 to 0W-20 in performance. It may equate to a .2 mpg decrease or so on the extreme end.

 

Thanks for mentioning centistokes Melfam. That was discussed briefly in the class but I have not looked into it a lot. Or specifically I have not looked into the differences in centistokes comparing 0W-20 with 5W-20 with 5W-30 with 0W-30 and 0W-40. Something I would actually like to look into and know. Also comparing European approved versions with American and import approved versions, viscosity and centistokes. Centistokes both at cold and 100° C would be interesting to compare with all these variables. To do list.

I know many consumers get rid of their cars early. I personally don't like the wasteful mindset. Or the replacing parts with cheap parts before you sell it mindset. Newer cars are nice and all. But the built to last mindset is praiseworthy IMHO.

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Hope this helps: https://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_viscosity_explained.htm

If it doesn't, it's at least interesting reading or good sleep aid.

 

Thank you, That's a nice chart.

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Walmart/SuperTech full synthetic oil
Brake: valvoline synthetic 3/4
transmission: Honda
Power steering: Honda

When/if I do the timing belt I will replace the coolant with Honda coolant.

 

Also left out of the change frequency argument: not wasting perfectly good oil. There are still folks who still think they must change their oil every 3000 miles. There are people on here who just use a 5000 mile interval and ignore the oil like algorithm. But there is little reason to worry about any of it. I have had many Hondas with well over 200k and never worried about the kind of oil or how often it was changed. They all leaked oil, none of them burned it. All passed California smog tests easily. The automatic transmissions however...