[surgeon]

Empirical data. Driver side felt hotter than passenger side. Got a IR thermometer. The temp range was 300+ both sides. Driver side was always 40 deg higher. Took out the caliper and cleaned out the pin and brackets completely and regreased. Now its smoother and 200-220 deg range. Passenger side is 20 deg higher. Will clean it out later. Now both sides are less than 275 deg. I think OEMs are in 200 deg range.

According to Stoptech site, new rotors do smell and smoke until bed-in is completed. It says the procedure step is 10x. And repeat process 2x is even better. I am not sure if I completed the burn-in step 10x yet. Will do it again this weekend. At least both rotors run cooler now.

Good rotors and great pads. Very quiet.

 

[gmcmickle]

Well, I did install a Genuine Honda pin today, replacing the top pin with the new one which is actually the bottom rubber sleeve pin #23. The old (original?) pin did not have the sleeve. Before installing the new one I carefully compared the two & they seemed identical except for the rubber sleeve. I greased the new one with CRC Brake & Caliper Grease from Autozone because it claimed to be safe for rubber. It installed easily. Then I pulled the bottom pin even though I had not planned on replacing it. Just wanted to see if it had the sleeve - it did. So I wiped off the old grease and put CRC on it before reinstalling. It seems that most of my rattle is from the driver side so I did that one first. Have not had a chance to test it on a slightly bumpy stretch of road but will do so report back soon. If it eliminates the rattle I will likely also do the passenger side because the pin is not expensive. Will try to post some pictures of the new and old pins then. Also, I plan to check the pads & rotor periodically to be sure the new pin is not causing uneven wear. By the way, anybody know why Honda is using two types of pins? I have replaced pins on Nissans and a Ford before; they were identical unlike for the Ody.

I am confused as to what part to order. Is he saying he ordered OEM top pins and they now come with a rubber sleeve looking exactly like the bottom pin (#23)? Or is he saying he ordered bottom #23 pins and installed them in the top? It seems the latter is the theme of this thread, however, post #6 by New Dad New Van says he just replaced all of the pins with new OEM. Can someone clarify these posts?

According to this: Honda Automotive Parts, the top pin (#14) is part number 45235-S0X-013. The bottom pin (#23) is part number 45262-S0X-003. Which parts should I order?

 

[surgeon]

Had this problem with parts person also. Might want to check with a honda tech. The top pin (#14) is without sleeve and only bottom (#23) is with sleeve. Although one post here mentioned taking the bottom and putting on top, I stayed with manufacturer spec (top = no sleeve, bottom = sleeve). If you order OEM bottom, it comes with sleeve. If aftermarket, as in Oreilly's, the pin set box comes with both pins (no sleeves) $10, and rubber parts box comes with boots and sleeves $4.

As for NDNV, I am guessing he went with OEM parts rather than aftermarket but not sure if he meant buy extra bottom pin and use on top. I would have paid that few bucks extra to get OEM bolts if I planned it out ahead and took the time.

Come to think of it, I just took off ones on Accord yesterday and both top and bottom pins looked the same. I need to find out more as it appears to have the top pin on the bottom too. I will check on the net. Go figure.

 

[New Dad New Van]

According to this: Honda Automotive Parts, the top pin (#14) is part number 45235-S0X-013. The bottom pin (#23) is part number 45262-S0X-003. Which parts should I order?

These are exactly what I got. I did not transfer a rubber sleeve to the top bolt Part #14.

They are $10 for both online - so even though I may have only needed the bottom bolt #23 with the rubber sleeve, I got both to be safe.

 

[davedrivesody]

***snip***

...and rubber parts box comes with boots and sleeves $4.

***snip***

I too went OEM for the pins but aftermarket for the pin boots (not available from Honda, except with the caliper rebuild kit). The sleeves that came with the boots were much shorter and thinner than the sleeves mounted on the OEM pins. I recommend the OEM pins with the sleeves installed.

I also recommend replacing the pin boots after several years. My originals looked in good condition but had lost most of their elasticity. The new ones grip much stronger onto the caliper groove. They will keep water out much better.

 

[ackack]

"...Or is he saying he ordered bottom #23 pins and installed them in the top?"

Yes, that's what I did about a year ago & still no rattle & braking is good. Since its been a year, I plan on pulling the wheels soon to visually inspect & maybe re-grease.

 

[gmcmickle]

I wanted to follow up with my results. I replaced both the upper and lower pins with exact OEM parts (as suggested by New Dad New Van). In other words, I did NOT put a rubber sleeved pin in the top. I also replaced the rubber boots as suggested. I used permatex ultra disc brake lubricant for the pins. There is no more loud clunking or rattling over bumps! The difference is amazing! The only thing I really noticed on the old pins was the rubber sleeves were a little worn.

I also replaced the pads even though they had a lot of life left. They were squealing badly all the time. The old pads were aftermarket and I replaced them with OEM Honda pads. The OEM pads come with new anti-rattle clips and anti-squeal shim for the back of the pads which I believe make the difference.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this post and helped many people.

 

[surgeon]

After getting the caliper rebuilt kit, used the new boots. As mentioned by Dave, the oreilly boots were not consistent fit on all bolts. Some stayed, some retracted. New ones are so much more soft and flexible.

But to the main issue. The sub pin (#23, with sleeve) is tight in that caliper hole for some reason. It is OEM. I wanted to replace so that I can remove the oreilly sleeve, which is smaller than oem. OEM is supposed to be exact fit. After it fit tight, pulling it out also makes it pop. Means it is a tight fit. I have the older oem one on other side still and it slides freely. Tried it on driver side. It was equally tight in both sides. I kept old ones as is for now.

Anyone have trouble with this pin? Maybe older oem part was ok but some update made it worse?

The other issue. As I mentioned in post 61, my passenger side seems hotter again. Measured pads and both pads on both sides were equal wear. Driver side seems ok, passenger side hotter. Not sure why.

The sleeves that came with the boots were much shorter and thinner than the sleeves mounted on the OEM pins. I recommend the OEM pins with the sleeves installed.

I also recommend replacing the pin boots after several years. My originals looked in good condition but had lost most of their elasticity. The new ones grip much stronger onto the caliper groove. They will keep water out much better.

 

[surgeon]

Think I figured out the slider pin issue. Pic. The rubber sleeve is might need to be pushed in more on the bolt. I decided to turn the sleeve and slide it on more. Measuring with calipers, there was some slight difference after (left) and before (right). Next time I check the pads for wear in a few weeks, will try them out. Notice gap on the right bolt?

 

[Jerry O]

The old fix with the brass shim stock is still on the job 15 years later. Our daughter and family still have the '01 van, now with 150K+ on the clock, and when we did some brake work on it yesterday we found the shims on the bare upper pins still on the job, stifling that unpleasant clatter first heard in 2000. Just as an aside, I used Syl-Glide on those brakes as long as we owned it, with perfect performance.
Jerry O.

 

[Montana]

I was doing calipers this past week on the 04 Ody and found that one of the pins with the rubber for the rear was too tight. It wanted to push back out and after messing with it for way to long, I put the original one back in and it was perfect. It's pretty frustrating but the new pins DID resolve the hollow drum sound Id get going over expansion joints or large cracks in the road.