Honda Odyssey Forum banner
21 - 40 of 144 Posts
While I understand your frustration I seriously doubt you will be able to get any sort of reimbursement from any car manufacturer for anything else but the cost directly associated to repairing the vehicle itself.
As far as I know some homeowner's and/or car insurance policies do carry some sort of basic coverage for incidents like this you may want to try this. I also doubt that filing a lawsuit would financially worth it.
 
Heres my experience. Over the past couple weeks, I would notice a slight hesitation in RPM at idle. I knew something was wrong, but without a CEL, would be difficult to diagnose. On the way out of town, a CEL came on. At high rpm, hard to tell that anything was wrong, but at lower RPM, it was obvious to me that it was a misfire. Rough idle. Pulled codes with my OBD2 and showed a misfire on cylinder 1. So I swapped the coil pack from cylinder 1 to cylinder 4 to see if the coil pack was the culprit. Drove it around for a bit and got the same code, misfire cylinder 1. Next step was to change the spark plug, but luckily I did some googling on the matter, and found out about this lawsuit and warranty extension. So dropped it off at the dealership. They're going to change out spark plugs 1-4, told them to go ahead and do 5 and 6, they are going to charge me $100 for that. I was like WTF, 100 for 2 spark plugs? Well the parts are like $50 and labor like $50. Would take me 10 minutes to do it myself but I told them to go ahead and do it. Also changing out piston rings 1-4, told them to go ahead and do 5 and 6 but havn't gotten a price. Couldn't be that much more. And since my car was due for a timing belt service, they are going to do it for $700, includes both drive belts and water pump. I had called a month ago and they quoted me $1100 for the service, so this couldn't have happened at a better time. Almost changed it out myself a couple weeks ago.
 
Heres my experience. Over the past couple weeks, I would notice a slight hesitation in RPM at idle. I knew something was wrong, but without a CEL, would be difficult to diagnose. On the way out of town, a CEL came on. At high rpm, hard to tell that anything was wrong, but at lower RPM, it was obvious to me that it was a misfire. Rough idle. Pulled codes with my OBD2 and showed a misfire on cylinder 1. So I swapped the coil pack from cylinder 1 to cylinder 4 to see if the coil pack was the culprit. Drove it around for a bit and got the same code, misfire cylinder 1. Next step was to change the spark plug, but luckily I did some googling on the matter, and found out about this lawsuit and warranty extension. So dropped it off at the dealership. They're going to change out spark plugs 1-4, told them to go ahead and do 5 and 6, they are going to charge me $100 for that. I was like WTF, 100 for 2 spark plugs? Well the parts are like $50 and labor like $50. Would take me 10 minutes to do it myself but I told them to go ahead and do it. Also changing out piston rings 1-4, told them to go ahead and do 5 and 6 but havn't gotten a price. Couldn't be that much more. And since my car was due for a timing belt service, they are going to do it for $700, includes both drive belts and water pump. I had called a month ago and they quoted me $1100 for the service, so this couldn't have happened at a better time. Almost changed it out myself a couple weeks ago.
my advise?
tell them to NOT DO plugs 5 & 6, they are fine, and it will cost you <$30 to do it yourself.
Couldn't be that much more? Wait and see, it will cost and arm and a leg. Leave cylinder 5 & 6 alone, plugs and rings.
$700 for timing belt service may sound like a bargain at the dealer, but they are going to remove the timing belt anyway!
so it should hypothetically cost you parts only. Replace hydraulic tensioner too, every one I saw is leaking by 100k.
 
+1 ^^^

I've seen tensioners failing on the Gen4 at 75-80K. Make 100% sure you're getting a new hydraulic tensioner. They're making about $500 on your timing belt for about 10 minutes extra work. I think the dealers love this warranty extension. They're getting the timing belt job at the same time and getting paid by both Honda and the customer to do it.
 
I have a question. I had the full TSB done on my 2010 Odyssey, inluding the piston ring fix, a couple of months ago. It took 7 years to get to that point. Is it reasonably safe to assume that the fix and software patch will rid this problem once and for all?
 
I have a question. I had the full TSB done on my 2010 Odyssey, inluding the piston ring fix, a couple of months ago. It took 7 years to get to that point. Is it reasonably safe to assume that the fix and software patch will rid this problem once and for all?
No. The only way to be sure it doesn't happen again is to get the VCMuzzler. If you just had it done, now is a really good time to get one and install it.
 
Is there any way to get a dealer to be a bit pro-active and see if a van is showing signs of the VCM issue? The reason why I ask is that we just purchased a 2009 Touring with 125,000kms on it (brand new tires, timing belt already done) and the mis-fire extended warranty expires next month of course! Unfortunately we were in a bit of a rush to buy something to replace our 03 Odyssey and this one came into the dealer on a trade in. If I had read all these posts before buying I probably wouldn't have purchased the Touring LOL! Anyways, I'm definitely thinking about purchasing a VCMuzzler or the VCMTuner (just haven't decided which one yet) as well.
 
Is there any way to get a dealer to be a bit pro-active and see if a van is showing signs of the VCM issue? The reason why I ask is that we just purchased a 2009 Touring with 125,000kms on it (brand new tires, timing belt already done) and the mis-fire extended warranty expires next month of course! Unfortunately we were in a bit of a rush to buy something to replace our 03 Odyssey and this one came into the dealer on a trade in. If I had read all these posts before buying I probably wouldn't have purchased the Touring LOL! Anyways, I'm definitely thinking about purchasing a VCMuzzler or the VCMTuner (just haven't decided which one yet) as well.
In short? No. The dealer will only respond if the key findings are present, which are engine misfire codes P0301-P0304 (either one of them or multiple).
Here is another muzzler option for you
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/23-buy-sell-trade/300785-vcm-muzzler-clones-sale.html
 
I'm all too familiar with what you're saying. I'm pretty much a diy guy and know they are raping me. The timing belt portion is about 250 in labor, rest parts including a new tensioner and water pump. Initially they told me they were changing rings 1-4, but after a.couple days they called back and said it will be rings 1-3, if I wanted to do 4-6, would be an additional 2k, I politely said no while pointing my middle finger at the phone. So this was a week ago since everything's been done. Two days ago I get a cell, pulled codes showing a p3400, rear oil pressure switch. Called my service advisor, said it's unrelated and not under any extended warranty, $50 to look at it, then parts and labor. I again politely said no while giving him a middle finger. The part costs $30 online plus a couple bucks for an o ring. Haven't changed it out yet. I'm hoping this will be the last of it for a while.
 
I'm all too familiar with what you're saying. I'm pretty much a diy guy and know they are raping me. The timing belt portion is about 250 in labor, rest parts including a new tensioner and water pump. Initially they told me they were changing rings 1-4, but after a.couple days they called back and said it will be rings 1-3, if I wanted to do 4-6, would be an additional 2k, I politely said no while pointing my middle finger at the phone. So this was a week ago since everything's been done. Two days ago I get a cell, pulled codes showing a p3400, rear oil pressure switch. Called my service advisor, said it's unrelated and not under any extended warranty, $50 to look at it, then parts and labor. I again politely said no while giving him a middle finger. The part costs $30 online plus a couple bucks for an o ring. Haven't changed it out yet. I'm hoping this will be the last of it for a while.
How do you know what part it is? A code does NOT indicate a part to change. You haven't told us anywhere what year and trim level you have but P3400 is Valve Pause System stuck off Bank 1. First thing to do is check your oil level. That code can be thrown due to low oil pressure caused by low oil level or a dirty oil system (screen, passages, bad pump, etc.,) a faulty rocker arm oil control solenoid, faulty rear rocker arm oil pressure switch, or a wiring or connector issue between those components and the PCM. Simply changing out the oil pressure switch, assuming you have the right switch, has about a 15-20% chance of solving your issue. You might get lucky but there's an 80% chance you are probably just throwing parts at a problem and won't fix it.
 
I think i'm about to join the club with this issue. I love the van, have just shy of 80K miles on a 2012 and it's been great. Last night my wife was coming home from work and both lights came on and I figured they had to be checked but safe to drive home. I took it in to get scanned at a autoparts store and came back with the cylinder misfire codes. He said there were multiple codes, but they were generic and he couldn't be sure why. One was the P0302 i'm certain of, and he said there were a couple other codes as well related to the same thing.

So I came home and did a little research and found this thread. I did notice a slight change in the start up and while running. Not a big difference, to say it was rough would be an overstatement, but I could tell it was different. Just slightly. Dealer opens at 830 so i'll be bringing it by then. I'm glad i'm not alone on this .
 
I think i'm about to join the club with this issue. I love the van, have just shy of 80K miles on a 2012 and it's been great. Last night my wife was coming home from work and both lights came on and I figured they had to be checked but safe to drive home. I took it in to get scanned at a autoparts store and came back with the cylinder misfire codes. He said there were multiple codes, but they were generic and he couldn't be sure why. One was the P0302 i'm certain of, and he said there were a couple other codes as well related to the same thing.

So I came home and did a little research and found this thread. I did notice a slight change in the start up and while running. Not a big difference, to say it was rough would be an overstatement, but I could tell it was different. Just slightly. Dealer opens at 830 so i'll be bringing it by then. I'm glad i'm not alone on this .
You've been a member here since 2015 and haven't installed a VCMuzzler or MaxMuzzler? As long as the misfire codes are P0300-P0304 then the issue is covered under extended warranty. A P0305 or P0306 is not covered and is a different problem. Order one of the Muzzlers and get that VCM disabled as soon as you get your vehicle back from being repaired.
 
I read a ton here before I bought the van and right after I bought it. I don' remember hearing anything about this when I bought it. I knew all about the vibration issues and things, and ours does it too, but I drive closer to 80 and never have to deal with it :) and I haven't visited very much since. I actually looked into selling and buying something else as soon as it's fixed, but we'd lose to much. We aren't underwater at all, but value isn't there. I am definitely looking into the VCmuzzler. Started reading on that as soon as I found the thread last night. If we keep the van, which I think we are, one of these is going on it too right away. I'm positive at least one code was the p0302, because he showed me that. Then cycled thru a few and said they were all related. Vehicle has been dropped off. They said they were scheduling at next wednesday already, but he did bring mine in right away and said they'd get to it as soon as possible. He said I could continue to drive it as long as the lights were solid, but if they started blinking to immediately shut it off and have it towed in. I just rented a vehicle and dropped it off. so I hope to hear something soon, but it might not be until next week I even hear anything.

I need to check back in more often.
 
I read a ton here before I bought the van and right after I bought it. I don' remember hearing anything about this when I bought it. I knew all about the vibration issues and things, and ours does it too, but I drive closer to 80 and never have to deal with it :) and I haven't visited very much since. I actually looked into selling and buying something else as soon as it's fixed, but we'd lose to much. We aren't underwater at all, but value isn't there. I am definitely looking into the VCmuzzler. Started reading on that as soon as I found the thread last night. If we keep the van, which I think we are, one of these is going on it too right away. I'm positive at least one code was the p0302, because he showed me that. Then cycled thru a few and said they were all related. Vehicle has been dropped off. They said they were scheduling at next wednesday already, but he did bring mine in right away and said they'd get to it as soon as possible. He said I could continue to drive it as long as the lights were solid, but if they started blinking to immediately shut it off and have it towed in. I just rented a vehicle and dropped it off. so I hope to hear something soon, but it might not be until next week I even hear anything.

I need to check back in more often.
here is a handy link for you, in case you want to consider my muzzler
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/23-buy-sell-trade/300785-vcm-muzzler-clones-sale.html
 
Not much of any update. I am getting my van back today with a temporary fix of just changing spark plugs, or at least the offending cylinder anyway. They said that should be fine until they can get me in to do the work, which the 30th was the soonest they could get it scheduled in for the big job of replacing a lot of that stuff. It is covered and they'll be getting me a loaner for a few days. I rented one for this and I am no fan of the Jeep Compass that's for sure. But it got me around. Can't wait to drop that off later today.

So in a week+ it looks like i'll be getting some new pistons and rings and things for some of my engine. I think my problem came on pretty recently. I have about 70+K miles on a 2012. I have never been low on oil in all my oil changes or checks. Oil levels were always good on the stick even when I pulled it for the last time before doing a change with 10-15% left on the maintenance minder. I just changed it about a week before the CEL and VSA lights came on, and it was low. Somewhere in the last 5K miles or so it went from good to the low end on the stick. I've always been using Mobil1 oil and filter if it matters.
 
Not much of any update. I am getting my van back today with a temporary fix of just changing spark plugs, or at least the offending cylinder anyway. They said that should be fine until they can get me in to do the work, which the 30th was the soonest they could get it scheduled in for the big job of replacing a lot of that stuff. It is covered and they'll be getting me a loaner for a few days. I rented one for this and I am no fan of the Jeep Compass that's for sure. But it got me around. Can't wait to drop that off later today.

So in a week+ it looks like i'll be getting some new pistons and rings and things for some of my engine. I think my problem came on pretty recently. I have about 70+K miles on a 2012. I have never been low on oil in all my oil changes or checks. Oil levels were always good on the stick even when I pulled it for the last time before doing a change with 10-15% left on the maintenance minder. I just changed it about a week before the CEL and VSA lights came on, and it was low. Somewhere in the last 5K miles or so it went from good to the low end on the stick. I've always been using Mobil1 oil and filter if it matters.
Have not heard anybody getting new pistons, double check on that one. I think the TSB specifies just cleaning out grooves of existing pistons and installing brand new piston rings. They also specify this work for cylinders 1-4 only (these are the VCM cylinders). I have read dealers opting out of doing cylinder 4, since its on a different bank, so definitely locate the TSB that covers this work and make sure you get what you are owed.
 
I may have misheard him. Said it was temporarily fixed with spark plugs being replaced and it should be a while till it misfires again because they had to get in and do some cylinder work and they had to get that into the schedule because it was a big job. he probably said they had to replace piston rings and other cylinder work, and I heard it as replacing pistons, rings and some other cylinder work.
 
Have not heard anybody getting new pistons, double check on that one. I think the TSB specifies just cleaning out grooves of existing pistons and installing brand new piston rings. They also specify this work for cylinders 1-4 only (these are the VCM cylinders). I have read dealers opting out of doing cylinder 4, since its on a different bank, so definitely locate the TSB that covers this work and make sure you get what you are owed.
So back to this. I picked up the van today and about 20 min after driving the lights did go off. Should be good till the service date. But he did say, they say to fix 1-4, but they rarely fix 4, only if it needs it. Like I"ll have any idea what they do. I'm pretty much trusting them to do what is supposed to be done. Other than say something like, "doesn't the TSB say 1-4 are all to be fixed" how else could I ensure that all 4 are done?
 
You'd need to press for it. Not doing #4 saves them pulling the front cylinder head, thus saving them a lot of extra work. The techs don't get paid as much for warranty work as normal work so they want to get it done as quickly as possible. Personally, I would do #4 based on the codes that were set and the condition of the plug on #4.
 
21 - 40 of 144 Posts