[RobInSaratoga]

After installing the new mix motor on the passengers side, I ran the sensor measurement test on the climate system as described and received the following readings:

1: 13 (degrees C)
2: 11
3: 08
4: 15
5: 81
6: 81
7: 58
8: b9
9: A1
0: 00

The ambient weather conditions when I test it were about 11 degrees C (or 52 F) outside and cloudy. The car had been sitting in the driveway overnight. The results from 1 to 6 I understand and are consistent with conditions; 7 through 0 are not entirely clear to me as to their meaning.

I also ran the diagnostic routine that issues trouble codes (DTC); the system reporting no errors.

So far, no more "rattling" of the air mix motor and the system delivers the air temperatures that are expected.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed here.

 

[slogadget]

After much consideration and looking at sites like rattling-center-dash-heater-c-air-mix-motor, I decided to replace the air-mix motor with a new unit. The cost was $114.61 after tax for part 79160-SHJ-A41 (driver's side air-mix motor 2005 Ody touring).

Here is the new unit:

Note the position of the levers look like 11:20 on an analog clock.


The installation process took a total of 20 minutes. These are the basic steps I followed (I did not have any official instructions):
1. Turn on car and change temperature settings to HI for drivers side (I actually changed all to HI). This positions the Air-mixer motor to the same position as the new unit.

2. Turn off the car
3. Remove drivers feet heater ducting (3 screws, see step 5 image for locations of screws). Note white tubing is attached by a clip (circled in image).

4. Remove air-mix motor (3 screws) & green wire clip (depress button & pull)

5. Attach new air-mix motor. Note that the 2 pins on the motor need to fit in the slots indicated by the arrows in the image above.

6. Reinstall ducting (3 screws and attach white tubing to clip)
7. Enjoy

So far no noise and temperature feels correct (similar temperature on drivers side and passenger side).

 

[Scott Jernigan]

What does it mean when No. 5 Driver's Air Mix displays "Er"?

 

[Scott Jernigan]

I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey LX. Recently with the heat and AC shut off (vent only), the vent on the driver's side would blow hot air while the passenger side would be the temperature of the outside air. Turning on the AC or manipulating the temperature setting in Auto did not make a difference. I took it to the shop; the mechanic said it was probably the blender motor, but when he checked it out it was not blowing hot air. A couple of weeks later the problem came back. I followed the instructions for checking the climate system codes (Hold down Recirc and Auto while starting the car). The display for No. 5 (Driver's Air Mix Opening) displayed "Er". I tried to check out the blender or mix motor, but couldn't tell if it was working or not. I decreased the temperature until it displayed "Lo". Long story short, the problem disappeared again and I don't know what I did to fix it. I did check the codes and the Driver's Air Mix read 15 which indicates that it's working. This problem has nothing to do with freon as it has nothing to do with the AC and it's not a heater core problem. My only thought was maybe the mix motor sticks and then unsticks but I have no proof.

 

[geobrick]

If it's the same design as what I have in a 2005 Touring, it's probably the mix motor. That's what cause the same symptoms it in my case (as well as the strange sounds inside the dash). It started out as an intermittent problem. It's not that difficult to remove the motor, open it up, clean the contacts then put it all back together.

 

[Cactuar]

Great info in this thread, thanks everyone.

I think I have the same issue: hot air coming from left vents and the driver side mix motor is making some squeaking noise.

The poster above me talked about cleaning the contacts of the motor. How would one do that exactly? I'd like to avoid spending 150$ if I can... Any info would be appreciated!

 

[geobrick]

Go back to post 57.

 

[planomateo]

I just had something similar happen to me. My driver side was cold and passenger side was hot.

I ran the sensor input display mode by holding the off & recirculate buttons at the time while starting the vehicle. #6 said Er.

I then got the DTC code by putting the ignition into II while holding the OFF button and hitting the rear defog button 5 times within 10 seconds. This puts the climate control into self diagnostic mode, where the driver side temp while indicate one line in one of the 8's that tells you which part to troubleshoot. For me, it said passenger air mix control motor or check the door linkage.

I ended up buying the part locally after getting them to match an internet price within $3. Got home and took the glovebox out so I could see the motor, I turned the AC to cold and it was working now. It seems like the diag might have helped or the problem is intermittent at this point. I'll be calling the dealer to find out how long I can keep the part before I can't return it to get my money back.

I bought my Service Manual years ago, I've had an extended warranty through 120k miles and I'm at 136k now. This manual is awesome to say the least. If you don't have one, you guys should consider buying one, think I paid $70 or $80 shortly after we purchased the vehicle in 2006.

 

[Kurzweil33]

This has always been an intermittent problem for me. When heat is called for, typical of a cool morning start, the blend motors go to maximum hot deck, zero cold deck. That is apparently an easy move for the motor to make. Then when the vehicle interior begins approaching the set point, the blend motors attempt to move subtly toward a proper mix. A sticky motor will now have difficulty. I expect that it is a much lower torque value. The solution for me has been to move the offending zone to max cold and then quickly back to my desired temperature, both are apparently high torque moves and the motor responds. But this is only a work-around. I suspect that if you EVER have the problem, you will ALWAYS have the problem until the motor is either cleaned or replaced.

I also heard the mouse stampede under the dash (driver's side for me).

 

[py3693]

My wife ran into this problem on the way home from work. HOT air from the driver side and cold air from the passenger side. I knew immediately that it wasn't mechanical but rather electrical since it happened so quickly. I searched google and came across this thread. For me, the blender motor was stuck in the open position.

I moved the drivers side seat all the way back and pressed in the parking brake for clearance. I laid on my back on the floor board and searched for the dark grey box with a green plug and white arms near the center console. Once I found it, I turned on the van and set the AC to LO. All I did was lightly touch the arm on the blender motor and it popped to life. The drivers side vents went from HOT to cold instantly. If it happens again, I will continue to fiddle with the box until it finally dies.

Thanks Odyclub!

2007 Honda Odyssey Touring dePAX'ed with BMW M5 replica wheels

Thanks for your sharing! I got the same issue today and it fix my problem.

 

[Mr. Hat]

Fixed!

Awesome, thanks to all who have contributed to this thread! My 2007 Odyssey EX-L had this issue and I fixed the Motor Assembly part with a simple adjustment.

Total cost: $0

I figured it wasn't a freon leak because the passenger side and rear were pumping out cool air. We've also had a gurgling sound coming from the drivers footwell for a while - some other comments in this thread mention a similar sound.

This morning I popped out the panel, unscrewed the hard plastic vent, unscrewed the motor assembly part, and took it apart. The gears were clean, greased, and unbroken, and the motor turned when I pressed a 9V battery to the terminals. However the worm screw wiggled around, just like in this video:

The Lexus part in the video looks almost identical to the part in my Odyssey.

I used some pliers to move the "yoke" (the wingnut-ish thing on the rod sticking out of the DC motor) further away from the motor. After a few adjustments, the worm screw fit perfectly in place and stopped moving side-to-side when the gears turned. I didn't even add contact lubricant or clean anything out - everything looked fine.

I reassembled the part, plugged it into the Odyssey power cable, started the car, and gleefully watched the white control arm turn as I changed the temperature settings. Then I put everything back in place and enjoyed the cool air as I drove to In-n-Out for lunch.

Parting Thought
- Be careful when you take the Motor Assembly apart, the clips break easily (I broke 3 of 6).

 

[jkeller123]

After much consideration and looking at sites like rattling-center-dash-heater-c-air-mix-motor, I decided to replace the air-mix motor with a new unit. The cost was $114.61 after tax for part 79160-SHJ-A41 (driver's side air-mix motor 2005 Ody touring).

Here is the new unit:
View attachment 57562
Note the position of the levers look like 11:20 on an analog clock.


The installation process took a total of 20 minutes. These are the basic steps I followed (I did not have any official instructions):
1. Turn on car and change temperature settings to HI for drivers side (I actually changed all to HI). This positions the Air-mixer motor to the same position as the new unit.
View attachment 57570
2. Turn off the car
3. Remove drivers feet heater ducting (3 screws, see step 5 image for locations of screws). Note white tubing is attached by a clip (circled in image).
View attachment 57578
4. Remove air-mix motor (3 screws) & green wire clip (depress button & pull)
View attachment 57586
5. Attach new air-mix motor. Note that the 2 pins on the motor need to fit in the slots indicated by the arrows in the image above.
View attachment 57594
6. Reinstall ducting (3 screws and attach white tubing to clip)
7. Enjoy

So far no noise and temperature feels correct (similar temperature on drivers side and passenger side).

Good stuff thanks....my air does not seem to be getting as cool, shop said this is probably what i need but checked the "doors and both were opening" I want to replace this as i am getting the chirping, mouse scurring sound, when you say turn on high, are you saying hi heat or hi cold? Thanks again

 

[slogadget]

Good stuff thanks....my air does not seem to be getting as cool, shop said this is probably what i need but checked the "doors and both were opening" I want to replace this as i am getting the chirping, mouse scurring sound, when you say turn on high, are you saying hi heat or hi cold? Thanks again

Sorry I was not more clear in my instructions. By 'HI' I meant highest heat setting ... the screen actually says 'HI'. When you go to the coldest setting it says 'LO'.

You may want to try some of the diagnostic steps I outlined here: posting #59. In step 2.5 one of the symptoms of the bad air-mix motor was the rapidly changing temperatures. The sensor had bad/dirty contacts so it can't find the correct location (amount to open the mix vent) for the given temperature. Also, when I would stick my head under the drivers side dash and look at the air-mix motor I could see the arm moving back and forth rapidly (the source of the gurgling noise). Do you have cold air on one side but hot on the other even with both set to the same temperature (say 68F)? If the AC does not get cold on either side no matter how cold you are setting it then you may have another issue (low freon, bad relay, etc).

Best wishes.

 

[mattman928]

Thanks for the tips. Mine stopped working also, when I removed the part and opened it up I noticed that the lubricating grease from the factory had built up on both Comb electrical contacts and the large gear disc with the tracks. I just used a paper towel and cleaned it up and voila it worked. Thanks again for the tip.

- matt

 

[mattman928]

Ha ha. Love it, I broke 4 of six clips

Fr those of you about to embark on this project, keep a couple of zip ties handy, I used them to hold the parts together from the clips I broke. That said I took mine apart clean the grease and te debris that had built up on the contact under the large gear wheel you see in the picture, and voila it works great! Total cost = $0

 

[MarcRai]

I did it to. I clean the grease and put some contact grease and it works now. Thanks guys

 

[Ditch]

<snip> ...These are the basic steps I followed... <snip>

<snip> ...it's important to note the motor position when you remove it to clean the contacts...ask me how I know... <snip>

Thanks guys, I'm having the same problem and this appears to have fixed it. Will all the talk about broken clips, I was extra careful and didn't break any.

 

[shakim91]

Hello Folks,
I used to have the same issue (driver side hot, passenger side cold in summer) for past few years. But bringing down the driver side to max cold used to bring it back to life. I also used to hear clicking sound (it used to appear to come from the behind the steering wheel).

But, now I am in a reverse situation. Driver side is only blowing cold air and passenger side it is nice and warm. I don't hear any clicking noise any more. I have two questions.
1) Since I don't hear clicking noise any more, do you think the motor is beyond repair and only way to fix is to replace the air mix motor?
2) Is there a temporary solution until I repair the motor or replace it? The temp outside goes down to freezing where I am and cold air from driver side maxes it really worse to drive the van. Would it stop blowing cold air if I remove the green plug from the motor?

I really appreciate any help and information you can provide.

-shakim

 

[pasmadj]

Driver's Side Hot Air

Hello All. Thanks particularly to some of you that have spent a lot of time learning about your Odyssey, and then teaching the rest of us.

My 2007 blows hot air on the driver's side, all other areas are fine (no complaints from passengers).

This past summer I heard the gurgling sounds regularly.

I can get it to behave temporarily if I change the temp setting to LO, and then back again.

I have more threads to read before I decide what to do. In the mean time, here are the codes I got this morning. Any insight and advice is much appreciated.

It was early morning, 29 degF outside.

1: 28
2: 00
3: 01
4: 04
5: Er
6: 26
7: 26
8: b9
9: 44
0: 00

 

[honda_where]

A/C makes tiny rattle / crackle sound behind steering/dashboard

Your symptoms describe exactly what I'm seeing on a 2008 EXL 276k mi. It goes well along the same lines as some of the others above as well, but yours has the sound that I first noticed. One more bit I'd add to it is that in tucking my head under the steering wheel and contorting to hold the Hotter / Colder toggle to either extreme, neither extreme (low, hi) would cause the plastic runner parts to position into the extreme positions. However, while in either low or hi, when I unplug the green cable connector from the actuator (?) motor housing and plug it back in, the white plastic runner part would complete the slide to the extreme position. Somewhere in the middle between hi and cooler, the rattling/clicking can be heard (and observed).

Because these three observations are 100% repeatable, I wonder if anyone has any specific tip like, "Oh that's definitely a bad XYZ." Unplugging and plugging in again make me want to call it something other than the motor itself, since it's clearly moving, just not all the way.

I have noticed some crackling coming from the dash (b/ sounds like under my steering wheel) and then today my drivers side air went out b/ the passenger side works fine. I have a 2006 EX Odyssey. I have noticed that most of the replies on here deal w/ the AC problem b/ haven't seen anything tied in w/ the crackling. Do you think they are related and is there a fix that doesn't involve the shop?