[honda_where]

So I opened up the heat blend door actuator:

and saw that the black strip contacts are worn/etched away:

which would totally make sense to make jittery, inconsistent, short-like symptoms.

Anyone know how to buy just the small PC board with new contacts on it:

By the way, here is a link to a video demonstrating the symptoms described:

 

[honda_where]

But for the whole assembly, can someone confirm whether the Lexus (87106-30371) and Odyssey (pp-gf20-m20) use the same actuator? It appears the are one in the same but that the Lexus one has a little different white plastic part. Or maybe that's considered part of the assembly and they really are 1:1 drop-in replacements?

 

[MrRangerZr1]

I just changed the air mix motor on my 2010 EX-L. Problem is solved, no more hot air on drivers side when you set the ac temp on the cold settings. If you're changing the motor, make sure that you put the ac on max hot or "Hi" I forgot to do that and i had a hard time getting the tracks right.

Here is the part number. Motor Assy., Temperature Driver: 79160-SHJ-A41

 

[knavekid]

This topic and the Honda Pilot one finally allowed me to fix my wife's 2007 Odyssey EX-L. For over a year, the passenger side would blow hot. When I say "hot", I don't mean it was not getting cold; the air was heated. Playing with the passenger temperature setting would eventually get it to blow cool. This was an inconvenience, but tolerable. When the drivers side started having the same problem, my wife parked the van and drove my car. This spurred me into action.

While I had searched without success in the past, today I finally found this thread and the answer. I had been hearing the gurgling sound for a while but did not realize it was related. After reading this topic and the Honda Pilot one here, I removed both the drivers and passenger side temperature control motors. Before spending $100 apiece to replace them, I would try to repair them. The drivers side motor was easy. Pop it apart (broke one clip). I cleaned the circuit board on the gear and the contacts using rubbing alcohol. The circuit board traces are resistive which acts like a potentiometer, providing position feedback to the controller. I also cleaned off the old grease and added a small amount of lithium grease to each gear. I made sure the motor part number was visible when I put it back in. I didn't snap it back together until I checked the position by holding the actuator side under the dash to make sure the actuator was positioned correctly. Then I snapped it together and installed it.

The passenger side went similar, except that the circuit board was not accessible. With the DC motor removed, I could freely turn the large actuator gear, but the circuit was on the underside. I used a small piece of paper towel saturated with alcohol and held it under the gear using a paper clip while turning the gear. Several pieces of paper towel later, they came out fairly clean so I lubed the gears, checked the actuator alignment (easier as there is just one lever to engage), and put it all back together.

It is now working well. My wife will be pleased when she gets home from shopping using my car (which she hates to drive: manual transmission, upgraded suspension and motor mounts which make for a rough ride, but I love driving my '02 RSX Type-S).

 

[John Clark]

Thanks for your posted solution and write-up!

 

[embarine]

This was one of the easiest jobs I've done in a long time, thanks to the very detailed and useful posts. I am much obliged.

 

[JamesInLV]

Just did this today too...had this problem for several months now and wife will be much happier. Everything looked pretty good in mine except for the amount of blackened grease on the circuit board and contact pins. I just took a paper towel and cleaned everything up...didn't bother removing every last trace of it...and put it back together. Broke a couple of the clips...didn't notice there were two clips on each side of the connection point before I cracked one of those...and then the other one cracked when I had to pop it open one more time. Everything working great. Hardest part was laying back under the steering wheel and removing/re-installing.

 

[allenhull]

Easy RnR

Did this today on our 07 Odyssey. Cleaned the grease off the contacts on the main gear wheel and the contact arms that come off of the connector plug and also moved the keyed flange a tad (1/32) further out on the motor shaft to take the play out of the worm gear. A few holding clips broke on the assembly covers as everyone has mentioned but once you screw the assembly back into place the screws actually help hold the thing together as well so the clips almost aren't that necessary.

DO be sure you line the arm up properly when you put it back in. I think they said make it look like 11:20 on the face of a clock, with the connector plug pointing to the right at xx:15 oclock position. See post #72 for a good vid on what's going on inside the assembly, etc.

 

[kylerPSU]

So I opened up the heat blend door actuator:
View attachment 77073 View attachment 77081
and saw that the black strip contacts are worn/etched away:
View attachment 77089 View attachment 77097
which would totally make sense to make jittery, inconsistent, short-like symptoms.

Anyone know how to buy just the small PC board with new contacts on it:
View attachment 77105

By the way, here is a link to a video demonstrating the symptoms described:

Count me as another saved by this thread! I have an '07 EX-L and my wife complained about the driver's side blowing hot air a couple days ago (recurring theme here) and so I set out to find the issue. A quick search brought me here, and the first thing I did was check the codes on the A/C unit. Turns out sensor 5 was returning Er, and so I tinkered with the driver's side door actuator. After messing around with it a bit while unplugged, I plugged the connector back in and wouldn't you know, all was right with the A/C again. It proceeded to move the arm and I was once again getting cold air on the driver's side. I fiddled with the temp control and it was actuating normally according to the temp setting. All is well again! Well, mostly...

So as I read through this thread, I also finally made the connection on the rattling/gurgling noise from under the dash occurring over the last year. It was this assembly. Ugh. My wife mentioned it had been louder more recently, and my suspicion is that it I've worn down the printed circuit on the large gear and happened to get stuck there. Budging the arm probably got me off the poor connection and now I'm moving back and forth over that spot without any issue....until I land there again. Ugh.

I suppose I could pull it out and confirm whether it's worn or just dirty, but I had a heck of a time contorting into the driver's side foot well just to fiddle with the unit. I hate to cough up $100 for a new assembly so I think I'm going to see about finding a used unit for an Odyssey or similar design to see if I can find this replacment PC-board. Will update.

 

[chernobyl1]

Fixed my Problem as Well!

I was having the same problem as listed in this thread except I could not get heat on the drivers side in the winter. Removed the motor, cleaned it out, and seems to be functioning fine now.

Thanks!

 

[Jonty25252]

Check the little wheel below each vent to make sure the vent is fully open. The wheel adjusts the volume of air coming out of the vent.

 

[ikhateeb]

Hi Jonty, can you post some pictures, appreciate you, thanks

 

[mburte]

I have same issue. There are also a couple of youtubes out on it. I wonder when does an issue become common enough that Honda does a free fix!!!!

 

[John Clark]

These vans are getting too old for that now. The newest Gen 3 is the 2010 and is 6, almost 7 years old now.

 

[thscott]

I just read through all 95 posts on this thread, as I am having this problem on my 2010. Unless I missed it, I'm surprised nobody posted about Honda Service Notice 12-07-2 which explains why/how low Freon can cause driver's side to be warm and the passenger side cold.

Here's the gist of it from that SN:

If the left dashboard side vent is warmer than the right side vent with the A/C on, chances are the evaporator core isn't being flooded with enough liquid refrigerant, causing it to fully vaporize halfway through the core. As a result, the side of the core with some refrigerant (the right duct) stays cold, while the side that's fully vaporized (the driver's duct) is warmer by about 20 degrees (or more in some cases).
The most likely cause for this problem is a low refrigerant charge, possibly from a leak. Another culprit might be a restricted line or component that's cutting the flow of liquid refrigerant.
To find and fix this problem, just follow the A/C PERFORMANCE leg of the online job aid A/C Diagnostic Process. If the vent temperatures even out, you're done. If they don't, continue with normal troubleshooting and check the system for restrictions.
For more info, be sure to check out self-study module ACC23, A/C System Checks & Monitoring in the dealers Online University.

Post 31 here had it explained as well.

I will investigate the driver's side temperature motor assembly as discussed here, as I don't think my issue is low Freon.

 

[John Clark]

Interesting. got a link to that Service Notice?

 

[John Clark]

...I will investigate the driver's side temperature motor assembly as discussed here, as I don't think my issue is low Freon.

After reading the service note, why do you not think your issue is low freon? My 08 Ody had low freon at 200 miles. Took it back in and they found a pinched o-ring.

That said, even a normal system will lose around 1 oz per year. So, even if your system is perfect you could be six ounces low. If you have a very slow leak somewhere it could be more than that. Even six ounces is nearly one quarter of the system charge.

I just did an AC service on mine where I sucked out all the refrigerant, vacuumed it down, and recharged it with the exact amount of refrigerant called for on the sticker.

 

[thscott]

I do not have a link to the Service Notice. I access it via my subscription to AllDataDIY.com, which for a subscription fee, allows me to view all TSB's and SN's. Because this is a Service Notice and not a Technical Service Bulletin, the sites where one might view TSB's for free do not show it.
The reason I think I do not have low refrigerant is that I used one of those DIY refrigerant recharge kits, which I've used successfully many times before on other vehicles. The pressure gauge on the dispenser indicated that my low side pressure was within the normal range. I did not want to risk overfilling the system, as I know that can damage the compressor. I am aware that this method (based on pressure) is not the preferred method for recharging the AC. The way you describe above is the correct method - to evacuate the system and fill it based on mass, not pressure. However I do not have the tools or skill to do that.
I will investigate the blend door (flapper) motor and mechanism to see if that might be the culprit, as many others here seem to have resolved this issue by cleaning or replacing that part.

 

[John Clark]

Those kits are junk. It's nearly impossible to determine anything from just reading the low side pressure. Additionally, low refrigerant equates to low compressor oil since the refrigerant carries the oil for the compressor. Most compressor failures are due to low refrigerant. According to the documentation I've read it's recommended to service your AC every few years to keep the level up and the compressor will never wear out.

I'm a self-taught AC DIY'er and have done lots of reading and watching videos online. I bought a vacuum pump and a set of manifold gauges but you can rent them for free from AutoZone (basically you buy them for up to 90 days and return them for full credit.) Autozone is the only place I've found that rents the AC service tools like this. There are lots of videos online on how to service auto AC. I serviced all my own vehicles just last month with the method below:

1. "Recover" the refrigerant still in the system. (enough said on that.)
2. Vacuum down the system with the vacuum pump connected to the yellow hose on the manifold gauge set. Vacuum for minimum 30 minutes to boil any moisture out. Open the high and low valves on the gauge set to vacuum from both sides.
3. Disconnect vacuum pump, turn off both the high and low valves, and make sure vacuum holds for at least 15-30 minutes to check for leaks.
4. Connect R134a can with a can tap to the yellow hose. Pierce can with can tap and then open can tap. Bleed air from the yellow hose by loosening the yellow hose fitting at the gauge set and let small amount of pressure out of the yellow hose.
5. Start engine and open low side valve ONLY to let refrigerant in. Compressor should kick on in a few moments as the pressure in the system builds. If the compressor doesn't turn on simply bypass the pressure switch with a jumper wire to turn on the compressor.
6. Put in the correct amount of refrigerant as shown on the sticker under the hood. If you need 28 ounces put in two 12 oz cans plus 4 oz of a third can. I use a kitchen scale from Wal-mart to put in the correct amount from the last can.

The cans will get cold and stop charging. I use a bucket of warm water to put the can in to speed up the process. Don't charge with the can upside down.

 

[thscott]

Thank you.

Perhaps I'll give it a go and invest in (or rent) the vacuum pump, and AC manifold gauge set required. If I were to buy, is their a particular high quality pump and manifold set you recommend? (or is a cheap "Harbor Freight" set sufficient?)