[labattsipa]

im just going to throw this out there for all to address what ever way they want.. when i cleaned the metal gasket and plenum areas, i used carb cleaner,, not anything abrasive like a wire brush and a rag to dry up any residual liquid. i would think that a wire brush on the gasket or mating surfaces could be detrimental. JMO

pete

 

[nwf_snake]

I used a brass brush and screwdriver to clean out the EGR passages along with throttle body cleaner, as well as a 11/32" drill bit to clean the actual port hole down into each of the intake passages. The metal gasket was just sprayed with cleaner and wiped off with an old rag. It came clean easily with hardly any rubbing as long as you let the cleaner sit for a minute or so. I then used the same rag to soak up the oily residue inside the intake itself and clean the mating surface on the intake.

 

[labattsipa]

like i said, JMO,, i figured that you would use some care in how you handled the gasket and mating surfaces.

pete

 

[picturebook]

I think, for less than 20$, it's better to replace the gasket. Along the gasket edget, there's a "bump ring" which will be flatten under pressure. A reused gasket will not provide good seal without the "bump ring".

 

[Dearden05]

just so we know what im looking at. here is the manifold with the top cover off. please note all the build up on the metal gasket

Got nothing on mine. 236kmi, 15 y.o.

 

[labattsipa]

now that's impressive

 

[mwe2121]

Got nothing on mine. 236kmi, 15 y.o. View attachment 152309 View attachment 152310 View attachment 152311

That looks worse than mine did at 181K miles when mine was 10 years old. I will be doing mine again in another 11K miles and will post some pictures.

 

[robtwalsh]

i would like to get a consensus about cleaning the intake manifold.
i have read several posts about the use of seafoam and other chemicals and others that do a whole disassembly of the intake manifold.
i can see the chemical approach as being more benificial as it gets all through the system more or less.
i also have a few questions about the use of these chemicals. do they have any affect on the catalytic converter as they go through?
i ask because i removed the top cover plate off my manifold this am as i was curious to see its condition( 04 and 60K miles)i expected a certain degree of dirt but did not expect to see small pools of dark almost oily fluid. i could not determine if it was engine oil but definitly not fuel. would like to know what and where that came from.
anyone?

thanks
pete

Replace the PCV valve & clean the MAP sensor. There is a Youtube video on cleaning a MAP sensor.

 

[robtwalsh]

im just going to throw this out there for all to address what ever way they want.. when i cleaned the metal gasket and plenum areas, i used carb cleaner,, not anything abrasive like a wire brush and a rag to dry up any residual liquid. i would think that a wire brush on the gasket or mating surfaces could be detrimental. JMO

pete

I took my 2004 Odyssey [150K miles] to the Honda dealer for their ignition cleaning service. Approx $150. runs like new.

 

[Buffalo4]

I took my 2004 Odyssey [150K miles] to the Honda dealer for their ignition cleaning service. Approx $150. runs like new.

"ignition cleaning service"
What did that service cleaning entail? Was that a mis-type or?
If you meant "intake cleaning service" do you know what that entailed?
Curious,
Buffalo4

 

[kbatmast]

Not trying to revive the thread, just adding my intake manifold (IM) experience to the database. '02 Ody. A little over 200k miles. No idle surging, but a significant hesitation (intermittent) under light acceleration, especially from a stop. sometimes smell a whiff of fuel in the cabin too. The long and short term fuel trims were high negative values, IOW the computer was trimming like crazy trying to reduce the rich mixture, but it just couldn't keep up. Would occasionally throw a P0170 Fuel trim (bank 1) code, running rich. Among other things, decided to clean the intake manifold. Removed the upper and the middle section of the IM. Left the lower IM in place. Took the "side wings", for lack of a better term, off the upper IM too. Made cleaning much easier. Removed the throttle body and cleaned that too. Amazed how filthy it all was with carbon. Especially the upper IM cover plate and the tiny EGR gas passages that port EGR gasses to each of the six intake valves. Those were 80% blocked. The "main EGR port" that goes from the EGR valve to the drivers side of the IM was pretty fouled too. Carb cleaner and a long flexible brush cleaned that main EGR port pretty well. Acetone (Goof Off) cleaned up the "shellac". Changed PCV valve. Pulled fuel injectors with the intent to clean them,but the ports and injectors themselves were so gunked up so I replaced the injectors. Both O2 sensors had not been replaced in a while, replaced those too. New Felpro IM gasket set and new TB gasket. Hesitation is completely gone. Fuel trims are now less than +- 3%. Runs great! I guess my main point is that, if your IM has never been cleaned, it may very well be significantly clogged, especially the narrow EGR passages. See before after pics.

 

[2011.2017.odyssey]

Not trying to revive the thread, just adding my intake manifold (IM) experience to the database. '02 Ody. A little over 200k miles. No idle surging, but a significant hesitation (intermittent) under light acceleration, especially from a stop. sometimes smell a whiff of fuel in the cabin too. The long and short term fuel trims were high negative values, IOW the computer was trimming like crazy trying to reduce the rich mixture, but it just couldn't keep up. Would occasionally throw a P0170 Fuel trim (bank 1) code, running rich. Among other things, decided to clean the intake manifold. Removed the upper and the middle section of the IM. Left the lower IM in place. Took the "side wings", for lack of a better term, off the upper IM too. Made cleaning much easier. Removed the throttle body and cleaned that too. Amazed how filthy it all was with carbon. Especially the upper IM cover plate and the tiny EGR gas passages that port EGR gasses to each of the six intake valves. Those were 80% blocked. The "main EGR port" that goes from the EGR valve to the drivers side of the IM was pretty fouled too. Carb cleaner and a long flexible brush cleaned that main EGR port pretty well. Acetone (Goof Off) cleaned up the "shellac". Changed PCV valve. Pulled fuel injectors with the intent to clean them,but the ports and injectors themselves were so gunked up so I replaced the injectors. Both O2 sensors had not been replaced in a while, replaced those too. New Felpro IM gasket set and new TB gasket. Hesitation is completely gone. Fuel trims are now less than +- 3%. Runs great! I guess my main point is that, if your IM has never been cleaned, it may very well be significantly clogged, especially the narrow EGR passages. See before after pics.

what did you use to clean it? pressure washer and chemicals?

 

[Pixburd54]

Impressive, kbatmast! I recently cleaned my EGR ports too.
How do you measure "fuel trims?" Is that something a DIYer can measure?
Others have mentioned replacing O2 sensors that apparently were still working, but not satisfactorily. How did you know that the O2 sensor(s) needed replacement?

 

[kbatmast]

Didn't pressure wash it. I didn't think it would take off the carbon and shellac but that was just my best guess. Also, it's aluminum, so I didn't want to deform any of the machined surfaces. I'm no expert. Maybe pressure washing would've worked. I used carb cleaner, lots of rags, Goof Off, nylon toothbrush and also a dental pick for some of the more acute corners. Carb cleaner spray is cheap and works great removing carbon. Goof Off (essentially acetone) is decent on the yellow 'shellac'. Bought a gallon of it at the orange big box store, probably used half. Sadly, the shellac doesn't wipe right off. Requires a little contact time and slight elbow grease.

 

[kbatmast]

Pixburd, yes, you can read the fuel trims with an OBDII code reader that has Live Data. My kid (it's his Ody now, I just still get to fix it!) just bought a simple code reader for $40 that has live data. Short and long term fuel trims you'll find under STFT and LTFT on the live data. STFT should be anywhere between +10% and -10% when engine running at steady speed. Sudden changes in engine speed will cause STFT to fluctuate wildly but thats normal. Take your STFT at idle, 2500 and 3500 rpm. Let's the rpm stabilize for a few seconds at each observation. Negative fuel trims mean a rich condition. Positive trims=lean condition. If info from the O2 sensors are telling the computer (ECU) that mixture is too rich, then ECU is decreasing fuel injector pulse width time (time the injector is on and actually spraying fuel) to decrease the amount of fuel in the mixture, hence the negative #. Positive STFT, lean condition, is simply the opposite. LTFT values should ideally be at or close to 0% with engine at steady speed. They can be up to +/- 5-8%. Changes in rpm will (and must) produce changes in LTFT, the value should return close to 0% when rpm stabilizes. A code will get thrown when that number is large enough. Don't hold me to it, but I think it's approx +/- 25%.

My reason for replacing O2 sensors was twofold. 1. They were quite old and had been sitting in an over-rich exhaust flow for a while. In my opinion, they were due. 2. The ECU is only reacting to the info the O2 sensors give it. Potentially, garbage in, garbage out. If those O2s were giving bad data, then they were the problem. Granted, with the occnl fuel smell AND the negative fuel trims it was a pretty sure thing that it WAS an actual rich condition. Therefore, see #1
There are ways to check the voltages from the O2 sensors to see if they're operating properly. Eric The Car Guy has an excellent YT vid on this. Use Live Data from your code reader again. I believe upstream is B1S1 (bank one, sensor one), downstream B1S2. Essentially, the upstream O2 should fluctuate rapidly in a range between approx 0.2V-0.9V. Perfect stochiometric combustion ratio of 14.7:1 would be 0.45V, or the middle of .2-.9 range. But you won't see it steady at .45, you want to see it go back and forth rapidly, within that range. Downstream O2 sensor should remain fairly constant at around 0.45V or move slowly (not jump around).

 

[Realism22]

Looking for a cheap obd 2 reader that does this

 

[kbatmast]

The OBDII reader my kid bought with live data was an Autel AL329-R

 

[Pixburd54]

Looking for a cheap obd 2 reader that does this

I have a cheap(er) reader (Autel MaxiScan 300) and I don't think it does this. Ugh!

 

[spiritof76]

Buy a wireless reader and use your phone. Android uses bluetooth and iOS uses wifi. I use the Veepeak models and on my Android I use the Torque app to interface with the reader.

Amazon.com

 

[lima]

My 2011 Ody van has 185k miles, and I've never adjusted the valves. Today, I was able to remove the upper intake cover. I was able to remove the two 12mm nuts and the 12mm bolts from the intake manifold. I was able to slowly wiggle and separate the manifold from the gasket a little bit on the passenger side. The 12mm bolt sticking up was loose from the the manifold; however, a similar 12mm bolt on the driver-side of the manifold seems caked at the base and is not budging.

I've watched several YT videos, and they all show such an easy removal of the intake manifold. Mine must be the exception.

Has anyone encountered a similar issue? How were you able to remove your intake manifold>