With 15400-PLM-A01 no longer available, what is your favorite oil filter? I have heard a lot of positive things about FRAM XG7317 Ultra Synthetic. Amazon sells them for $7. Is there any other oil filter on the market than offers a better value?
alosito
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I'm also an "annual oil change" person. Gen 2 Ody, Gen 2 Acura TL Type S, pair of 8th Gen Accords (K24 and J35), trio of 9th Gen Civics (R18).
For the family of 0dyfamily, it's Mobil 1 0W20 Extended Performance High Mileage oil supported by AmSOil filters (except for the Odyssey & Acura ... using up my stash of Mobil 1 monster-size M1-207 filters on those two vehicles).
AmSOil EaO13 (or Ea15K13) filter will work on all of our vehicles. We can use the somewhat larger EaO20 (or Ea15K20) filter on the Civics, Ody and Acura; it fits, barely.
If you change engine oil and filter regularly, and use quality stuff of an approved viscosity with the correct or better API spec, your engine will most likely outlast the bodyshell and the transmission. It may outlast you. All 5-speed transmissions from late 2004 model year onwards have proven to be very durable.
OF
For the family of 0dyfamily, it's Mobil 1 0W20 Extended Performance High Mileage oil supported by AmSOil filters (except for the Odyssey & Acura ... using up my stash of Mobil 1 monster-size M1-207 filters on those two vehicles).
AmSOil EaO13 (or Ea15K13) filter will work on all of our vehicles. We can use the somewhat larger EaO20 (or Ea15K20) filter on the Civics, Ody and Acura; it fits, barely.
If you change engine oil and filter regularly, and use quality stuff of an approved viscosity with the correct or better API spec, your engine will most likely outlast the bodyshell and the transmission. It may outlast you. All 5-speed transmissions from late 2004 model year onwards have proven to be very durable.
OF
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If your oil is dark, it just means your detergent package is doing its work, holding really small contaminants in suspension.
It doesn't automatically mean that the rest of the oil's physical properties have degraded (i.e., it doesn't mean the oil is "worn out.") It could still be able to keep going, providing good lube properties.
Family fleet is six Hondas and an Acura. Per car, $30 bucks out-the-door for a jug of a name brand EP oil and $15 to $20 for a top-flight pure synthetic media spin-on filter makes once per year a bargain.
For us, doing it more often is just a pain in the butt with that many vehicles. So far, no excessive (or measurable) oil consumption, all of our vehicles range between 100,000 to 230,000 miles on their odometers. Using only about seven gallons of oil each year.
OF
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I managed to get them on closeout from Rock Auto for initially $5 per copy, then quite a few more for as low as $3 per copy as they exhausted their stock several years ago.
It's no longer produced, and neither is the same-sized AmSOil EaO44 (this was an amazing filter).
When I get done with this set of family fleet oil changes, I'll have 16 of those M1-207's left. Here's a pic comparing it and the Ea15K13 that can be used on any of our Hondas, plus the Acura:
It has about twice the volume per external dimensions.
Mobil says their Extended Performance line of filters is constructed for operation up to one year or 20,000 miles, whichever comes first, when paired with their EP oils.
We usually make less than half that in mileage in any year for any vehicle, so we change oil annually.
OF
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@dvpatel , it's a beast. One of our forum members (who's screen name escapes me) and OilyPablo on BITOG brought up the subject of bigger filters for the older Odysseys many years ago, and the EaO44 and M1-207 made it into that conversation.
These can occasionally be found on eBay.
The same-sized Wix 51626 is still in production.
OF
These can occasionally be found on eBay.
The same-sized Wix 51626 is still in production.
OF
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No idea.
No idea, either.
Wix refers to their media as "enhanced cellulose." Mobil calls their media a "synthetic fiber blend" element. They are probably more similar than different.
Wix is a brand name with a good reputation.
EDIT: I can only vouch for the M1-207 or 51626 fitting on the Gen 2 Odysseys and my older Gen 2 Acura TL. Pablo did use the same-sized EaO44 on his 2006 Odyssey, so there is a nod to the 51626 fitting on the early Gen 3 Odysseys.
OF
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You are welcome.
Also, to add, I did use the Eao44 (when it was available) on all of our Gen 2 Odysseys at one time or another.
These engines have proven to be so durable that this mantra is the truth:
OF
Also, to add, I did use the Eao44 (when it was available) on all of our Gen 2 Odysseys at one time or another.
These engines have proven to be so durable that this mantra is the truth:
I think though, that the "upgraded" Fram filters dressed in silver and gold are in an entirely different higher league.
OF
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It's kind of hard to view the AmSOil filters as "mainstream" when you can't find them at your local parts store. They're strictly a dealer, mail order, or distribution center pick-up type of item. But, @tyman I get your point ... they are widely used, for sure, in spite of their marketing plan.
They're one of only a few manufacturers who market only non-blended (zero cellulose), engineered synthetic media oil filters. The other besides AmSOil (that I can recall) is Syn-Lube, and they are strictly a single-web page store front where you have to figure out which size will fit (pay attention to the filter dimensions and thread pitch!)
For OP @alosito , who wanted to know if there was "any better," here's a good read by George Morrison on one of the Tundra forums: George STLE CLS
Sadly, cancer took him away from his family and all of us in his extended internet motorhead family a number of years ago. He managed lubrication programs for large fleets (heavy earth moving, transpo, and mining equipment).
Another pure synthetic media filter offering is the Purolator Boss. Non-blended media (i.e., no paper-based material in the filter). I haven't heard of nor seen any testing-by-outside professionals (like George M.) for the Purolator Boss. There's a lot of internet conjecture, but I've seen nothing with an actual test in an operating vehicle and contaminant analysis.
OF
They're one of only a few manufacturers who market only non-blended (zero cellulose), engineered synthetic media oil filters. The other besides AmSOil (that I can recall) is Syn-Lube, and they are strictly a single-web page store front where you have to figure out which size will fit (pay attention to the filter dimensions and thread pitch!)
For OP @alosito , who wanted to know if there was "any better," here's a good read by George Morrison on one of the Tundra forums: George STLE CLS
Sadly, cancer took him away from his family and all of us in his extended internet motorhead family a number of years ago. He managed lubrication programs for large fleets (heavy earth moving, transpo, and mining equipment).
Another pure synthetic media filter offering is the Purolator Boss. Non-blended media (i.e., no paper-based material in the filter). I haven't heard of nor seen any testing-by-outside professionals (like George M.) for the Purolator Boss. There's a lot of internet conjecture, but I've seen nothing with an actual test in an operating vehicle and contaminant analysis.
OF
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This is the first I've seen for a particle count on the Boss, thanks for finding that. I didn't think they could get a stellar product at that price point. No idea what their synthetic media is made of, though.
I was reading through this ... I thought these were samples from an actual engine run based on the graph labels.
Reading further, all of this was purely lab based without being run through an engine, for say, a thousand-mile run and then sample followed by particle count. That is what I'm trying to find. The labels only tell us the oil filter and what it was supposed to be used for. (Chevy V8). Damn, I was hoping these were actual samples from an actual run.
As I asked, I was looking for somebody who's done this from an actual, living, breathing car or truck engine constantly generating a variety of wear particles over a decent amount of time and miles versus dropping a weighed mass of calibrated micronic dust into an oil filter at one sitting and then actuating a timer.
I'm not thumbing my nose at lab results ... they're useful, but I was looking for how filters work during expected operating conditions.
George did that for a pair of filters over a 1,500-mile and 10,000-mile run for each. I was looking for the same, done by anybody else.
OF
I was reading through this ... I thought these were samples from an actual engine run based on the graph labels.
Reading further, all of this was purely lab based without being run through an engine, for say, a thousand-mile run and then sample followed by particle count. That is what I'm trying to find. The labels only tell us the oil filter and what it was supposed to be used for. (Chevy V8). Damn, I was hoping these were actual samples from an actual run.
As I asked, I was looking for somebody who's done this from an actual, living, breathing car or truck engine constantly generating a variety of wear particles over a decent amount of time and miles versus dropping a weighed mass of calibrated micronic dust into an oil filter at one sitting and then actuating a timer.
I'm not thumbing my nose at lab results ... they're useful, but I was looking for how filters work during expected operating conditions.
George did that for a pair of filters over a 1,500-mile and 10,000-mile run for each. I was looking for the same, done by anybody else.
OF
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Man, @tyman , it just occurred to me. I could do that long term test. I'm coming up on changing oil on the entire family fleet this Novemeber. The graphs, even lab-derived for the Fram Ultra, are exactly what you'd expect a good microglass filter to do in testing.
I'm going to get a Fram Ultra filter and put it on my Acura (J32 V6), and put an AmSOil Ea15k13 on my wife's Accord (J35 V6). After a year, get a sample and send it off for analysis and particle count.
My guess is that a lab probably uses an optical means of generating that count, and they may require a mid-run sample (i.e., not a whole year). We'll see. Gotta go figure out what to buy, and where to send it.
OF
I'm going to get a Fram Ultra filter and put it on my Acura (J32 V6), and put an AmSOil Ea15k13 on my wife's Accord (J35 V6). After a year, get a sample and send it off for analysis and particle count.
My guess is that a lab probably uses an optical means of generating that count, and they may require a mid-run sample (i.e., not a whole year). We'll see. Gotta go figure out what to buy, and where to send it.
OF
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For all and OP @alosito I think if you just change your oil and filter regularly on these J35 V6's, you'll get a great lifespan out of the engine.
We're getting to the point in the consumer motor oils & filters market where "better" or "best" means products you can use to extend the OCI, like I do.
It's amazing stuff, modern oil and filters. If you guys look at the data linked by @tyman , note where the data axes start. These are reduced-data graphs to show "where everything ended up" instead of a lot of empty space where there is no data.
Even the filters that did not showcase as well as their excellent marketplace brethren are still good filters.
OF
We're getting to the point in the consumer motor oils & filters market where "better" or "best" means products you can use to extend the OCI, like I do.
It's amazing stuff, modern oil and filters. If you guys look at the data linked by @tyman , note where the data axes start. These are reduced-data graphs to show "where everything ended up" instead of a lot of empty space where there is no data.
Even the filters that did not showcase as well as their excellent marketplace brethren are still good filters.
You're right. I could do that. Maybe Bosch on my Odyssey. Tying to keep this on the V6-motivated Honda/Acura products, since the others are K24 and R18 inline-4's.
OF
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If vapors in the oil ullage condense on a surface that does not receive regular immersion in oil by splashing or oil jet or otherwise, those surfaces will remain covered in deposits. Nothing will clean those ... but you really don't have to worry about it.
For those places where deposits may accumulate, but do receive oil coverage regularly, I believe M1 can work. We used generic Castrol GTX 5W20 in our 2nd gen Odysseys for several years until switching to synthetic oils, and stuck with a 7,500-mile OCI for the most part back then. Whenever I opened up the fill cap, some of the visible bolt heads from the valve train had accumulated deposits. Looked like black sludge.
When we switched to Mobil 1 EP oils, those deposits vanished on both vans.
OF
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Not a bad thing to have.
Are you sure?
Every Fram I've cut open uses the same bypass valve type, a stamped piece of sheet metal with a button-sized plastic valve. This "valve assembly" is set against the "top" of the media, on the top baseplate (metal for the Endurance, cardboard for the generic Fram orange canister) to also act as a spring to hold the media in place longitudinally. It is not affixed in place with adhesive nor does it have a gasket.
Not saying that's bad, just that it's completely different from Mobil 1, AmSOil and other brands.
Mobil 1 and AmSOil (and some others, including the no-longer-produced Honda 15400-PLM-A01) use a bypass valve integrated into the media baseplate as one complete integrated assembly instead of two separate parts stacked atop each other, and no plastic.
OF
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@majiexpress , this is a thread on oil filters.
For ATP AT-205 questions and answers, use search, and also see this post.
OF
For ATP AT-205 questions and answers, use search, and also see this post.
OF
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That's for an EaO17 (top video). We don't use that model of filter. I am amazed, though, that AmSOil is using the same bypass valve in that particular model (EaO17) as the Fram FE10575.
Aren't those two for full-size trucks? I don't think either is used on any Honda or Acura.
Anyways, I did not like the previous implementation of that same design when the Frams I cut open had an obvious casting flash ridge on the plastic valve that kept it from fully sealing. You could see light through it with a flashlight aimed through the other side of the filter stack. That's bad. I cut open a few, and ALL of them had that same lack-of-sealing defect ...
... and I hope they fixed that for current production, whoever is manufacturing the plastic portion of the bypass valve for filter manufacturers at large. It's good only if it seals properly.
The EaO13 I last cut apart (or currently Ea15K13, fits across all generations of Odyssey, Accords, and Civics with M20x1.5 threads) didn't use that plastic bypass valve getup. IIRC, it was a metal poppet with a spring integrated into the top plate (opposite of the ADBV), but it's been years since I cut one open.
Amazingly, the pleats in the EaO13, though tighter and more numerous than any Fram I've cut open, were not as generous as the earlier Honda OEM FilTech 15400-PLM-A01 filter that came with my 2002 EX. IIRC, that one also had an integrated-into-the-top-plate metal poppet bypass valve design.
Second video, regarding capacity...if all of them have enough capacity for an extended OCI, then it doesn't matter who is in first or last place, as they all hold enough contaminants during a chosen change interval to support the lube oil.
Same for flow restriction. If they all allow acceptable lube flow, from first to last place, through the end of an OCI, then all of those filters are good enough.
If I look at it that way, then for me the winner would be the Fram Endurance.
OF
Aren't those two for full-size trucks? I don't think either is used on any Honda or Acura.
Anyways, I did not like the previous implementation of that same design when the Frams I cut open had an obvious casting flash ridge on the plastic valve that kept it from fully sealing. You could see light through it with a flashlight aimed through the other side of the filter stack. That's bad. I cut open a few, and ALL of them had that same lack-of-sealing defect ...
... and I hope they fixed that for current production, whoever is manufacturing the plastic portion of the bypass valve for filter manufacturers at large. It's good only if it seals properly.
The EaO13 I last cut apart (or currently Ea15K13, fits across all generations of Odyssey, Accords, and Civics with M20x1.5 threads) didn't use that plastic bypass valve getup. IIRC, it was a metal poppet with a spring integrated into the top plate (opposite of the ADBV), but it's been years since I cut one open.
Amazingly, the pleats in the EaO13, though tighter and more numerous than any Fram I've cut open, were not as generous as the earlier Honda OEM FilTech 15400-PLM-A01 filter that came with my 2002 EX. IIRC, that one also had an integrated-into-the-top-plate metal poppet bypass valve design.
Second video, regarding capacity...if all of them have enough capacity for an extended OCI, then it doesn't matter who is in first or last place, as they all hold enough contaminants during a chosen change interval to support the lube oil.
Same for flow restriction. If they all allow acceptable lube flow, from first to last place, through the end of an OCI, then all of those filters are good enough.
If I look at it that way, then for me the winner would be the Fram Endurance.
OF
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Amen!
Mine was just an OEM 4x4, no mods, no lift. Just simple to do basic under-the-truck maintenance.
OF
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I just got a set of Race Ramps for our trio of family Civics. The ones I just got have a 1,500-lb. rating (each ramp), but it appears the company did more testing and uprated the same model to 2,500-lbs. apiece.
I'm still going to only use them for the "less weighty" vehicles like our sedans, and stick to the Rhino Ramps for our Odyssey.
Before anybody says "You paid over $600 for these??!!" ... I didn't. Local dirt track racer cleaning out his garage. I had zero idea they had such a high retail price
, and he sold them to me for a "I need space in my shop" price ....... like about the cost of a tank of 87 octane gas in my Odyssey.
Just really grateful for my good fortune of late with Facebook Marketplace, as in level of gratefulness that makes you think "Man, I should be on my knees praying thanks for these latest helpful purchases."
OF
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More like 20-buh-zillion pounds!
I've used made-from-wood ramps before. Totally confidence-inspiring. The Grand Canyon will collapse before those ramps quit on you.
Well, now that we've figured out some great oil filters in this thread (better than XG7317), I think anybody could read this thread and say "Those Odyssey guys rock! I've never picked up a wrench, but now with all this awesome info I could open up my own oil change shop... HOOAH!!!"
OF
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I don't really choose a filter based on "am I just driving?" versus "am I towing?"
Surely your oil supports the engine. High loads, severe service: good synthetic oil all the way.
On that note, the filter supports the oil. The oil, no matter which you use, can't do its job as well as it could if wear particles and contaminants produced by the operating engine are not captured by the filter and are thus allowed to keep moving through the lubrication system.
I think we've all interacted with mechanics, and some of us with engineers, who've seen first-hand the effects of "not enough filtration."
Is there such a thing as "too much filtration"? Maybe, but if I'm not using a bypass system added to the engine's regular full-flow filter, it's hard to see ever using a not-so-great filter for general use and then a better one for severe service (like towing.)
My take (like most people, I'm sure): get the best filter you can (cost versus benefit here) and keep using that, and change oil and filter regularly.
OF
Surely your oil supports the engine. High loads, severe service: good synthetic oil all the way.
On that note, the filter supports the oil. The oil, no matter which you use, can't do its job as well as it could if wear particles and contaminants produced by the operating engine are not captured by the filter and are thus allowed to keep moving through the lubrication system.
I think we've all interacted with mechanics, and some of us with engineers, who've seen first-hand the effects of "not enough filtration."
Is there such a thing as "too much filtration"? Maybe, but if I'm not using a bypass system added to the engine's regular full-flow filter, it's hard to see ever using a not-so-great filter for general use and then a better one for severe service (like towing.)
My take (like most people, I'm sure): get the best filter you can (cost versus benefit here) and keep using that, and change oil and filter regularly.
Experts? Who? I'd say you probably have enough information as a regular Joe Consumer (like me) to know that you should just use the best filter you can get at a price you agree with, and use that for any task. I do that, no matter if it's just me in the van, or 2,000 lbs. on the hitch and a few hundred pounds of tools in the cabin.
OF
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