[egads]

The other three lights just come on to tell you that, because something else is wrong, those systems are not active. If one of those lights came on without a check engine light, then something might be up with them.
Please disclose the year, model and current miles on your Odyssey. There may be really good reasons to have the codes read. There are known issues that can be addressed. Some have warranty extensions.

 

[Mikeytnyc]

Ends up that oil was accumulating in cylinder #2. I assume this is why so many use a VCM muzzler. The updated piston rings to prevent this and all associated work is over $3k.

 

[ALSPORTS2000]

With little wear and no leak then it's impossible to have a fluid drop. Either it's been at that level and you just never noticed, there's wear that you're not seeing, or there's a leak you're not seeing. Fluid is only lost if it leaks. It's not "burned" like engine oil can be. No leak, no fluid loss. If it were me I'd put the level half way in between max an min. The fluid level is supposed to notify you of when it's time for brakes.

I OWN A 2016 ODDOSSY AND TOOK TO DEALERSHIP CUZ THE FCW AND ENGINE WARNING LIGHTS WENT ON AND THEY DIAGNOSED IT AND THEY SAID IT WAS THE KEY COMPUTER UNDER THE HOOD. I DON'T UNDERSTAND EXACTLY WHAT THAT DOES BUT THEY RESET IT AND LIGHTS HAVE NOT COME ON. THEY DID ORDER A NEW COMPUTER PART COVERED BY EXTENDED WARRANTY. ITS STRANGE THAT MY KEYS HAVE TO BE ALSO RESET. I DON'T KNOW IF WHAT THEY SAY IS THE PROBLEM OR THEY JUST NEED THAT PART FOR THEMSELVES.?.

 

[Jess4tigrs]

January 2021 here. I have been an Odyssey owner since 2005. Had four total. This one is a 2014 Odyssey Touring Elite. 205k miles. Tonight left restaurant and started car. It’s 32 degrees out. I’m overdue for oil change by 1800 miles. LIGHTS came on - check emission system, check VSA system, FCW, LDW, check tire, service due.
Besides needing an oil change... what’s going on with the multiple lights?! Can a Jiffy Lube diagnose codes? Or my transmission guy who does bigger jobs? Thanks.

 

[phattyduck]

Service due should have already been up on the screeen - non issue there.

FCW/LDW and VSA lights will all come on with a Check Engine light (the check emissions system light). Get the CEL code(s) read and report back. This can be done free at most auto parts stores...

Check your tire pressures - they may just be low due to time and weather (all tires slowly leak maybe 1psi every month or two, and cold weather lowers pressures too).

If the check-engine light is flashing, avoid driving the car. Once we have the codes, we can try to point you in the right direction.

-Charlie

 

[egads]

Check engine: little picture of an engine
Service due: little picture of a wrench

 

[Dharmesh75]

2014 Honda Odyssey EX-L, 80K miles all of a sudden got battery sign even if the battery was just an year and 3 months old, the next day got battery sign, ABS sign, a car on a wavy road sign and the display showed message "FCW System Failure" and car lost all the power, it barely run around 20 miles giving gas just raise the rpm to 4-5K but no power, also felt few shot gut fire type noise and jerks from engine, this all started about 4 miles away from home so finally I was able to get the car in my driveway. I turned off the engine and now it does not turn on, all dash board signs keeps flickering and the honda link system keeps rebooting.
I have read this entire post and all reply but unfortunately still not clear as to what could have done this. It all starts with battery sign first but i have not read anyone mention anything with the alternator, car 12V battery drops voltage while running and all this started means either the alternator failed or something is drawing a lot more power, the later does not make sense as they fuse should stop that to happen so it must be alternator but no one has mentioned it. I will test it and report:
Here is what I have done in last month to my car as a reference:
Discount tire replaced all 4 new tires.
Changed oil by myself with following:
Motor was flushed using Motor flush
Pennzoil 5W-20 full synthetic oil and K&N filter
Rislone 4102 engine treatment
(NOTE: I know 0W-20 is the correct oil but had 5W-20 at home so used it, engine was running well but since it had 80K miles I did the flush and added the additive that in theory should be helping the engine)
During oil change
Drove the car about 1000 miles and there was no issue.
Added fule injection treatment with 20G full tank gas, as this should in theory can help the injector deliver steady flow of gas to the engine.
Drove about 60 miles.

This is where the problem started happening.

To narrow it down, I installed new battery in both PODs and also installed new 12V battery.

Drove few miles and the issue came back.
I tested the 12 V battery and the voltage was dropped to 11 V that is where i am leaning towards issue with the Alternator, any suggestion ?
Someone mentioned not to top off the break fluid, al though i have done that in past with my other cars, i took out the approx oil i added by dipping rag in it to suck out some oil.
I hope i have been very detailed with all necessary info and hopefully all of you experts ca guide me from here the proper route.
I have 6 sparks plugs already purchased and was going to change it in next couple of weeks as time allows.
Let me know what you guys thin, I just don't want to tow or drive it to dealer unless i really should.
The issue appears battery being drawn low and all this system starts these symptoms.
Thanks in advance for your help and support.
Dharmesh Patel

 

[John Clark]

A battery light is not an indication of a battery problem. It means the battery is not being charged and the car is running on battery only, usually due to a failed alternator.

 

[Dharmesh75]

@John, I agree. As a brand new battery also dropped voltage but I am getting concerned with the multiple other lights and car ended up displaying the FCW System Failure and not starting.
So you also think that in my case most probably it is an alternator issue that caused battery loosing voltage and the low voltage triggering all these other issues ? Although, it must be the first step to test and make sure the alternator is doing what it supposed to do.

i will post back what i find out, let me know anything else.
Thanks for the response.
Dharmesh Patel

 

[John Clark]

Yes. Fix your charging system issues first before doing anything else.

 

[phattyduck]

A failed charging system or battery will cause never ending other problems in a modern vehicle. Fix/replace the alternator (use OEM or Denso only!), make sure there is not an oil leak on the alternator and the other problems should fix themselves. There is a possibility you will need to reset some other systems using a factory scan tool, but it is unlikely there will be lingering other problems.

-Charlie

 

[dvpatel]

@John, I agree. As a brand new battery also dropped voltage but I am getting concerned with the multiple other lights and car ended up displaying the FCW System Failure and not starting.
So you also think that in my case most probably it is an alternator issue that caused battery loosing voltage and the low voltage triggering all these other issues ? Although, it must be the first step to test and make sure the alternator is doing what it supposed to do.

i will post back what i find out, let me know anything else.
Thanks for the response.
Dharmesh Patel

Yup. You need to get the Alternator fixed first. There are several threads on here about the Battery Light and the failed alternators. This thread does NOT mention that because this thread is for LDW/FCW system failures without any other charging system issues.

 

[Langelot]

I'm having the exact same issue(s) with my 2015 Odyssey (113K miles).

I had my major maintenance 100k maintenance cycle with new belt, pump and also did brake pads and brake fluid. I just took it now to the dealer for the oil change and, of course, they wanted to run the computer diagnostics for over $150...

I declined and will be doing just the oil change for now. I feel better after reading the previous posts in that I am not too concerned about the chance of blowing the engine.

My suspicions:
1. As previously mentioned, the brake fluid level since I had that changed not to long ago at around 105k. The level is showing perfectly normal. Could it be an air-bubble problem? I doubt it.
2. The battery, since I changed that myself with a Costco battery within less than a year.

Plan of action after the oil change:
1. Get the battery tested (for free) at any auto parts place.
2. Do a soft reset by disconnecting the battery (as previously described). Now done. The engine light come up fairly quickly and one can still feel "misfiring" but the FCW & LDW system failure have not come up yet (only a matter of time, I think, but likely a red-herring) . I tend to think it may be injector/spark plug related... I did not change the spark plugs at the 100k maintenance...

A couple more things which might be relevant:
I did give a battery jump to a numbnut who was stuck a while back. He was trying to restart his car with his headlights on while hooked up to my battery. I had to tell him to turn them off as he still couldn't get started. Maybe this may have caused me battery issues? Doubtful.

Also, I am typically guilty of overfilling the tank always trying to get to a round dollar figure at the pump. Lesson learned from these posts, I'll quit doing that... Also, my wife who was tremendously alarmed at all the warning lights reported a very strong gasoline smell in the garage when she started the car today. This, more than anything else make me lean towards a fuel injection problem and misfiring rather than brake fluid...

She did report that the problem went away the other day when it first came up after she stopped and filled up the car...

I'll wait until the tank is near empty and will fill a quarter tank with 93 octane, add some fuel system cleaner for good measure and take the car on the highway to put it through its paces. Maybe it may help with any potentially clogged injector?

After that, if unresolved, I will go for new spark plugs and an injector "cleaning" as they call it.

I'll give an update once I make some headway.
In the meanwhile, I am, of course, open to any suggestions or ideas...

 

[phattyduck]

The engine light come up fairly quickly and one can still feel "misfiring"

Get that code read ASAP. If it is P030x, you likely have problems related to the VCM system. Tons of threads on here about "muzzling" the VCM system to avoid the need to clean and re-ring the engine (major $$$).

Replacing the plugs (use OEM or NGK only) will also tell you which cylinders are misbehaving.

-Charlie

 

[KMAC797]

Yesterday the I got a message on the instrument cluster saying Forward Collision Warning System Failure. This was accompanied by the Three Amigos, the FCW, LDW, and Traction Control lights.
Also noticed the red Brake light would flicker on every once and a while.
At home I popped the hood and was shocked to find the brake fluid at or just below the Minimum line. I topped it off, took it for a test drive and could not get the 3 Amigos to come back.
So I have two questions.
1) Would low brake fluid cause the FCW system failure message/lights?

2) Where did all that brake fluid go!? I know as pads/rotors wear more fluid is required to push the caliper pistons. And the brakes are all original with 31,000 miles on them. But a fluid level drop to the minimum level just from brake wear seems odd. I know what a leaking brake line feels like and I don't have that.

Had anyone had a 50K transmission fluid change at a Honda dealership when these errors started? My issues started with the transmission slipping as it changed gears when I drove away after the fluid was changed. A few days later started having a security alarm horn during a light rain. Two days later all the big 4 warning lights. I unplugged the hood latch switch. That cleared all problems for two days but big 4 are back today.

 

[pops914]

I have a 2017 EX-L Navi. I have been having a variation on the FCW, LDW problem. After driving for several miles with the failure light on, the cruise stops working too. If I stop and turn off the engine, wait a few minutes, the failure warning is gone and the cruise works. I have made significant progress in solving this issue. First of all, this started after I converted the brake (regular and 3rd) lights, rear running (parking) lights and license plate bulbs to LED. The problem only occurs if I have the running lights (or headlights) on. It takes about 10 - 15 minutes for the failure lights to come on. I can drive for over 100 miles without lights and no failures occur. My LED lights are supposed to be CANBUS compatible. I am going to remove the LED's and reinstall incandescent bulbs a few at at time to troubleshoot which one(s) are causing the error messages.

I will post the results of my testing.

 

[Sakura]

2014 Honda Odyssey EX-L, 80K miles all of a sudden got battery sign even if the battery was just an year and 3 months old, the next day got battery sign, ABS sign, a car on a wavy road sign and the display showed message "FCW System Failure" and car lost all the power, it barely run around 20 miles giving gas just raise the rpm to 4-5K but no power, also felt few shot gut fire type noise and jerks from engine, this all started about 4 miles away from home so finally I was able to get the car in my driveway. I turned off the engine and now it does not turn on, all dash board signs keeps flickering and the honda link system keeps rebooting.
I have read this entire post and all reply but unfortunately still not clear as to what could have done this. It all starts with battery sign first but i have not read anyone mention anything with the alternator, car 12V battery drops voltage while running and all this started means either the alternator failed or something is drawing a lot more power, the later does not make sense as they fuse should stop that to happen so it must be alternator but no one has mentioned it. I will test it and report:
Here is what I have done in last month to my car as a reference:
Discount tire replaced all 4 new tires.
Changed oil by myself with following:
Motor was flushed using Motor flush
Pennzoil 5W-20 full synthetic oil and K&N filter
Rislone 4102 engine treatment
(NOTE: I know 0W-20 is the correct oil but had 5W-20 at home so used it, engine was running well but since it had 80K miles I did the flush and added the additive that in theory should be helping the engine)
During oil change
Drove the car about 1000 miles and there was no issue.
Added fule injection treatment with 20G full tank gas, as this should in theory can help the injector deliver steady flow of gas to the engine.
Drove about 60 miles.

This is where the problem started happening.

To narrow it down, I installed new battery in both PODs and also installed new 12V battery.

Drove few miles and the issue came back.
I tested the 12 V battery and the voltage was dropped to 11 V that is where i am leaning towards issue with the Alternator, any suggestion ?
Someone mentioned not to top off the break fluid, al though i have done that in past with my other cars, i took out the approx oil i added by dipping rag in it to suck out some oil.
I hope i have been very detailed with all necessary info and hopefully all of you experts ca guide me from here the proper route.
I have 6 sparks plugs already purchased and was going to change it in next couple of weeks as time allows.
Let me know what you guys thin, I just don't want to tow or drive it to dealer unless i really should.
The issue appears battery being drawn low and all this system starts these symptoms.
Thanks in advance for your help and support.
Dharmesh Patel

I’m late but mine did the same thing was it your alternator?

 

[pops914]

I had the same problem on my 2017 EX-L Navi after I installed LED lights. It was the lights for the license plates and rear running lights that caused the problem. My LED's also said that they were CANBUS compatible. I put one of the factory bulbs back and the probllem stopped. I put the LED back in the socket. My solution was to find a bulb socket for a tail light bulb. I wired it into the taillight circuit (behind the tailgate cover), and instaledl an incandescent bulb in the socket. I zip tied the bulb an socket to the wiring to keep it from rattling, and replaced the cover. That fixed the FCW, LDW and cruse control issued. It has been working for about 6 months with no problems.

 

[zed7]

A few months ago, my battery finally gave out. I was able to jump it and get to the battery store and got it swapped out. But I had all the same lights, FCW, LDW, Traction control, ABS. Oh, and I couldn't use the auto door sliders with the car on, super annoying. I would have to turn off the car to open those doors. If the car was on with them opened, it would just beep really loud. I could close them with the car on. Super weird!

I first disconnected the battery and tried to get it to clear the code. Didn't work. Then I tried pulling the fuse, still no luck. I couldn't find anything online, so I forgot about it. Super annoying issues to live with, but weren't worth the money and I didn't have the time. I tried getting the dealership to erase the codes, but they wanted to charge $180. I bought a $60 OBDII reader but realized it didn't read other systems than just the engine... (Thankfully I could return it!)

Finally went to an Auto Zone and they let me use their Scanner for free. It was able to read the error (it only said ABS, but specified 'current sensor 2 failure' which is battery related), but then I went back out to the car and used their scanner to clear the ABS and traction control light. Those two went off right away. Still had the FCW (system fail) and LDW lights on. But didn't want to buy the stronger $300 scanner...

But when I left and started driving, the last two lights went off! The LDW and FCW went away and I could open the auto doors with the car on now! All my problem lights are gone!!

2015 Odyssey

 

[Odyssey’s Suck]

I have a 2015 Odyssey. Have been having all these issues recently. Around six months ago, all those warning lights came on, so I took it to the dealer. They said there was oil on the spark plugs, and recommended changing all of them (71,000 miles at the time). Then, about a month ago, all the same lights came on again, but this time the car was misfiring, shaky, and didn’t seem that it was safe to drive for long distances. I took it back to the same dealer, and they said the same thing, but this time it was the piston rings allowing the oil to get on the spark plugs. They acted like they were doing me a favor for not charging me again for the work I already payed for. Meanwhile, they suggested changing water pump and belts since the engine would already be pulled so labor would be minimal (at 81,000 miles). I filed a claim, but Honda said they couldn’t do anything. Then I did the same with an arbitrator, but they said the same thing. To me, this is a defect of their engines, and I’ve been driving for 27 years, and never had a car with these issues. Also, I’ve spent close to $6,000 on this car in the last year (bought it brand new, by the way).
I know Honda has had class action lawsuits for similar issues with previous years’ models. I am optimistic that another will be coming soon. Honda no longer makes good cars.