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Power sliding door mega thread - common issues, their symptoms, and how to fix them

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#1 · (Edited)
The goal of this thread is to consolidate all the information about power sliding door issues that is spread out across the forum. While it will be primarily focused on the 3rd generation Odyssey (2005-2010), the basic ideas in this thread can be applied to all Odysseys with power sliding doors. To an extent, some information can even be relevant for models with manual sliding doors. This thread will not cover every possible issue, but most common issues will be covered, so check here first.

While there will be plenty of discussion in this thread, this first post contains the key information, so reading the rest of the thread (many pages) is not necessary. However, feel free to contribute to the discussion if you choose. You may find other helpful information in replies to the thread.

Preliminary Steps:
If you are encountering a problem with door movement, first make sure to follow these instructions to eliminate basic issues before continuing troubleshooting:
- Ensure that all 3 tracks (the upper track, center rail, and lower track) are clear of any blockages. It is especially common for debris to fall into the lower track during everyday use, which can interfere with door operation.

- The upper track should contain a rubber bumper at the rear end as shown below:
Image

Ensure this bumper is present, as it could potentially cause issues if it isn't. If you need to replace this bumper, the part number is: 72557-S0X-A00. There are many videos on YouTube showing how to install it. It is very simple and only takes a few seconds.


- Make sure the rollers on all 3 tracks are properly lubricated. A white lithium grease is a good lubricant to use.

- Pull out the #7 fuse in the driver's footwell fuse box for 15-20 seconds and then reinsert it. Once it is reinserted, cycle the door once manually and then see if the issue is resolved.

Common Issues:
Worn Center Roller (very common) -
Possible Symptoms: Door movement is jerky, door will close partway and then reverse direction.

One way you can confirm this issue is by using the movement test shown in this video. It involves grabbing the rear end of the door when it is open and pulling it back and forth perpendicular to the direction the door normally moves in, checking for excessive play.

Repair: Repair or replace the center roller assembly.

There are two ways to fix this issue. You can either replace the roller assembly, or if you're feeling adventurous, members of this forum have had success with replacing just the nylon rollers on the assembly. @kernel has put together a page showing this process on his website.

If you choose to replace the roller assembly, there are several videos detailing the procedure. Here is one example, from EricTheCarGuy:

For the 05-10 Odyssey, the roller assembly part numbers are as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72561-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72521-SHJ-A21

NOTE: As of March 2025, a new aftermarket center roller is available for the 05-10 Odyssey that uses metal rollers instead of nylon rollers like the OEM rollers and other aftermarket options. A few members have installed this new product, and early returns are promising. You may consider getting this over the OEM replacement. It is currently only sold as a pair for both the left and right side, but it is still very inexpensive and worth purchasing even if you don't use both sides immediately. You can find it on Amazon here:

With the exception of the specific aftermarket roller mentioned above, it is generally recommended to use an OEM assembly, as the aftermarket assemblies typically do not last long.

Failed Latch Actuator -
Possible Symptoms: When attempting to open or close the door, it makes a whine/groan noise, then fails to unlatch from the open or closed position. In some cases, the door may briefly whine/groan and then open with a loud popping sound.

Here is a video showing the symptoms of this problem, so you can see if it matches up with what you are experiencing.

Repair: Repair or replace the power release actuator (also known as the door latch actuator)

Although it does sometimes happen, it is very rare for anything to actually break inside this actuator. Inside the actuator is a small clutch pin. This clutch pin often gets stuck over time and doesn't move as easily as it should. This can be fixed by removing the actuator, opening it, and spraying the clutch pin and other gears inside with a white lithium or silicone spray grease. This repair is very effective and can last a long time. Here is a video that shows both the process of removing the actuator and performing this repair:

Alternatively, you can replace the actuator with a new part using the same instructions. The part number for the actuator for 05-10 Odysseys is as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72663-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72623-SHJ-A21

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

Failed Rear Latch Assembly -
Possible Symptoms: Door gets pulled in too far when closing, pauses for a few seconds before releasing; Door doesn't latch when closing; 400 mA parasitic battery drain; Constant beep when van is put into gear with power sliding door main switch turned on; Slide Door light illuminated on dash; No response when attempting to open door

This is arguably the most involved common issue with the door, with many different potential symptoms that can arise from it. If one of your symptoms is seeing the Slide Door light illuminated on the dash, you can read the code using the "foil trick" that is shown in
this video.

Repair: Repair or replace the rear latch assembly

Generally, there are two different things that go wrong in this assembly. Over time, the gears and levers in the assembly can seize due to a lack of lubrication and fail to engage the microswitches for the latch. Thus, when the door goes to close, the control module is waiting for a response from the microswitches that it never sees, so it stays awake indefinitely waiting for the response, causing a draw on the battery, and the vehicle no longer sees the door as being closed, resulting in a beep when putting the van in gear. The microswitches themselves can also fail, causing the same symptom.

The easiest way to fix this issue is to purchase a new rear latch assembly and install it. This is guaranteed to solve the issue. The part numbers for the rear latch assembly for 05-10 Odysseys are:
Driver's side (left): 72650-SHJ-A22
Passenger's side (right): 72610-SHJ-A22

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

However, the latch assembly can be expensive at around $250, so many opt to repair/recondition the existing assembly.


One of the simplest things to try is to lubricate the mechanism through the exterior bolt holes. If you look at the back edge of the door, you will see three bolts sticking out:
Image


One bolt at a time, remove the bolt, spray some white lithium grease inside, and reinstall the bolt. Do this for all 3 bolts. Sometimes this can solve the issue.

Otherwise, you may need to remove the latch assembly from the door to solder in new microswitches and/or lubricate the mechanism so that the switch is engaged. This video shows the process of removing the assembly, testing, and replacing the microswitches:

Failed Fuel Door Interlock Switch -
Possible Symptoms: Driver's side sliding door does not unlock (3 beeps when trying to open); When trying to manually push up lock tab, the tab resists and returns to the locked position when released unless the tab is held in the unlocked position for several seconds.

Repair: Replace the fuel door interlock switch

In the fuel fill area, there is a switch that is designed to lock the driver's side sliding door when the fuel door is open to prevent the door from being opened, which could damage the fuel door. This switch can fail or not be engaged properly when the fuel door is closed, preventing the door from unlocking.

Open the fuel door and on the inside of the door, there should be a tab positioned in a way that causes it to press in the switch inside when the door is closed. If this tab is broken or missing, simply attach something else there to press in the switch, and this will resolve the issue.


If the switch itself has failed (you can test it by manually pushing the switch in and seeing if the door unlocks when you do this), it will have to be replaced. The part number for this switch on 05-10 Odysseys is:
74380-SHJ-A01

This video shows the switch as well as how to replace it:

Final Notes:
If you are looking for even more detailed information about any of these repairs, use the search function of the forum and you can find dedicated threads and posts. This post is simply intended to point you in the right direction.

While models with manual sliding doors do not have the power release actuator or the rear latch assembly, they do still have the center roller and the fuel door interlock switch, so those issues are still relevant.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
#48 ·
It may, I am not sure if it is on the same fuse, but if it doesn't work when you pull the fuse then that would confirm it.

I think in the SMA video he shows what fuse is for the power tailgate.
 
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#49 · (Edited)
I just replaced the middle roller assembly on my 2009 EX-L. The trickiest part was re-installing the second cable end. I chewed up the cable a little bit to the point that I got stabbed with some frayed cable wire. After struggling to get it on, I was rudely interrupted by a rainstorm. When I went back out to the car, I thought for a minute and then opted to grab the barrel with pliers below the cable and twisted the barrel instead of the cable, and it popped into place. The barrel, i.e. the cylindrical cable end, will also deform when squeezed with a pair of pliers, but I think damaging the cable is potentially a bigger issue. I'm happy that the door is working again, just hoping I didn't create a ticking time bomb by fraying the cable. I guess worst case it'll work for a while, snap, and I'll have a manual door after that.

I purchased the OEM part off of eBay, verifying that it was Honda part 72521-SHJ-A21. It was $29.71 with tax and shipping. One of the rollers on the original part was completely gone. I'm not sure when she let go. The car is at 105K. I watched the video in the first post by Eric the Car Guy, then when I saw that he broke the taillight assembly plastic watched this video, too:

Here's the original part as well as the box that I received the replacement part from the eBay seller:

Image


Image
 
#50 ·
Nice work. I personally wrapped some masking tape around the ends of the needle nose pliers I used to prevent cable damage when doing this. It worked quite well, I didn't end up with any damage. Having a second set of hands was also very valuable when it came time to stretch the cable. I opted to take the front cable off second and put it on first that way when you're fighting with the cable trying to stretch it, you have less risk of knocking the door off the support you're using if you're working on the rear cable.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
#56 ·
Tracks. Either way as you open/close the door the rollers will help distribute the grease. Spray vs tube really doesn't matter, though spray may be easier to apply since you can reach inside the track easy with the little straw.
 
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#57 · (Edited)
Just replaced both slider mid rollers on both sides.
Had parts for likely over 2 years. :rolleyes:
Finally moved forward with replacement.

Driver side went well.
Passenger side not.

Door on pass side fell off. o_O

It was ripped right out of the top track. :(
As noted, that slider is heavy. est; 250 -300 #'s

Had to unbolt the upper roller assembly, to reinsert. Reattach.
Then continue with normal assembly.

It seems fine, even after the fall of 8 - 10 inches.
Amazing nothing appears bent or whatnot.
Operation seems fine so far. Amazingly.

Fwiw, the upper roller does not have any adjustmt except in and out, provided with the existing shim. No rear/forward adjustmt.
Point is, just bolted it back in, slipping shim in, all good.
It seems all good good even after that fall. :)
Amazing. All seems to work fine.

My issue was my undulating poor asphalt driveway.
And just using thick carboard over said poor/bad/worn asphalt.
And trying to move a floor jack over said poor surface with different grades.
I recommend to do this on even, smooth ground.
That was my mistake. One side was fine, other side, not.
That is why I lost the door. Uneven ground, moving floor jack supporting door.

The irony after the job is you don't need to move the slider door. imo
The cables/roller easily moves.
Just move the roller/cables as needed to mate with door.
IOW's, set door 1/3 open, support, then move the roller to mate back up. Don't move door. Cause that is when it can drop.
Ask me how I know? lol

I did the pull the pin technique , not unbolt bracket from slider too.
That was easy on drivers, a touch harder on pass side.
Still easy. just don't loose the circlip.
IOWs I did not unbolt bracket from slider door.
I placed cardboard and white sheet to capture the clip if fell.

Also, removing body painted slider track cover, to prevent scratches, I thought it was don't scratch body of van, . . . no.
It's don't scratch the track cover. . . At least in my case.
When remove panel, lift it up away from roller bracket.
I dragged it across the roller bracket and scratched the track body panel cover. :(
Cover the slider bracket if you want, to help avoid scratches, prior to removal, if that makes sense.:rolleyes:
Or lift it up higher than the roller bracket.
The bracket has razor sharp edges. Even the new one.

The driver side went well.
Passenger side went bad.
Door fell
Struggled to get cable back in new roller too on pass side.
Had to bend tab down on new roller to make more room to insert cable.

Not sure why one side was easy, other side a nightmare.

Cleaned all tracks w/brake clean, then re-lube with "tub" of white lithium grease. not spray lithium.
Tried my spray lithium, too liquidly. Bad. Just dripped everywhere. Made huge mess.
Was 93 degrees though.

Old rollers had about 3/8" play at rear, in and out, if door open all the way.
Door open, pull in and out on aft of door. 3/8" play.
After roller replacemt, 1/8 max play. at same point. :)
Amazingly tight now.
Works really well now.

The new rollers in my case are super obvious that they help with the transition from closed to open, that initial 45/90 degree angle, when just opening.
That first 5" to 6" thrust. That is so smooth now. That was the rough spot for us, opening.

I will emphasis, it is the transition from closed, to just opening, that corner iows, at the rear door jamb, to door parallel with body, that was our issue, now it is glassy smooth with the new rollers.
And same closing. That last final angle to close was a stress point. Not any more. The last 4 - 6 inches.
Could hear and feel it stress.
It's all smooth like glass now.

It is not just the new rollers, it is the hinge point at new roller bracket and door fixed bracket. That is lubed now. That was corroded.
IOW, lube that contact point / pin even prior to replacemt. Or regardless of replacemt. That should help.
That pin / pivot point I see now is mega important.

Bear
 
#58 · (Edited)
That is why I lost the door. Uneven ground, moving floor jack supporting door.
Rather than a jack, I used a milk carton crate to support the door last time I did it. 1st time I did this (on my '99) I used a stack of bricks/2x4s- this was too narrow and unstable and the door fell off. But it didn't compromise the top roller in my case.
Good job and great writeup, Bear! :D(y)
I still cheaped out- doing the $5 roller replacement from the 2nd Gen section on my '99, '02 and '07. On my current '07, replaced one cracked roller on driver side several years ago. Last month replaced the other roller which finally cracked. Never bothered with pulling the pin, I've always removed the roller and put it back using the dirt marks to align.:giggle:
 
#60 ·
What exactly is your door issue? Describe in detail what is happening or not happening. Could be many things including a bad center roller or a bad fuel door switch. Hard to say without knowing your issue. (I have no idea what B2033 error code indicates.)
 
#61 · (Edited)
What exactly is your door issue? Describe in detail what is happening or not happening. Could be many things including a bad center roller or a bad fuel door switch. Hard to say without knowing your issue. (I have no idea what B2033 error code indicates.)
My problem is when I open the door it beeps three times but the door does not open automatically. Opening the door manually is no problem. Check the center roller or fuel door switch, no problem. I also tried unplugging the #7 fuse in the driver’s footwell fuse box for 15-20 seconds. The door just won‘t open automatically (sorry my English is no good)
Rubber bumpers, center roller, latch actuator, rear latch element, fuel door interlock, micro switch, all checked, beeps when push button is pressed to start, sliding door light on dash comes on, I've tried everything WiiMaster teaches. But sometimes I also try to unplug the No. 7 fuse in the driver's footwell fuse box for 15-20 seconds. The door would suddenly open automatically, but after a while, the sliding door light on the dashboard came on again. The error code checked is B2033. That's probably it.
 

Attachments

#65 ·
Hello Ody members,
I am experiencing the door beep issue...this originally started last year and upon research I found it's an issue with the mid rollers. So, I replaced both the mid rollers for both the sliding doors ordering from the dealer. The sound returned and so, I also replaced the top rubber stoppers on both sides which were missing, also applied white lithium grease on all the roller mechanical parts (up, center and lower) but not on the tracks. The sound went away for few months and came back again last week. I noticed that this is happening particularly when I am going on a rough road or going upwards on a slope road; it does not happen while going downwards on the same road. This also happens while parking on my driveway which is also inclined or when coming to a sudden stop. It appears like something is not latching properly somewhere....any ideas?
 
#66 ·
What do you mean? You mean the door open beep is constantly sounding? Where did you see that is caused by the center rollers? That issue is almost always the rear latch module.
 
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#70 ·
I have a 2006 EX-L .... both sliding doors are having issues.. the drivers sides just looks like it needs the rollers replaced.
The passenger side - the real trouble maker :) Door got stuck and would not open more than a few inches.. after rocking back and forth, spraying grease , it finally opened but the cable snapped :( OK .. so replaced the roller without any issues and cut the cable from dangling down. Now, the door slides back and forth nicely in the track, but does not latch at the rear part at all. When closing the door, it doesn't pull in and close the door. Pulling the code, i get B2052. Googled it and it's "sliding door control unit internal error (EEPROM error)".... SO is this just the failed rear latch assembly that needs to be replaced? If so, if i'm just going to keep the door in manual operation, what part would i need vs 72610-SHJ-A22 as suggested ealier? Thanks in advance for the help
 
#72 ·
Doors Won't Open!!!
Not inside outside manual power assisted...
My sliding doors do not open at all. Occasionally they might work in the power assisted mode but it's not reliable. When they are on manual mode I can't budge them. At ALL
Very upsetting when I'm tryin to unload cargo like right now...
I try to open them from the inside and they don't budge, I try using the outside handles no go.

In the long run I wish to fully eliminate the power assisted mode. It takes all the joy out of being able to slam the sliding door shut after moving lots of stuff.

Right now I would be okay with using them in either mode if they would just open. 😔
 
#76 ·
Doors Won't Open!!!
Not inside outside manual power assisted...
My sliding doors do not open at all. Occasionally they might work in the power assisted mode but it's not reliable. When they are on manual mode I can't budge them. At ALL
Very upsetting when I'm tryin to unload cargo like right now...
I try to open them from the inside and they don't budge, I try using the outside handles no go.

In the long run I wish to fully eliminate the power assisted mode. It takes all the joy out of being able to slam the sliding door shut after moving lots of stuff.

Right now I would be okay with using them in either mode if they would just open. 😔
I similarly could not open or close the doors at all if they were switched to manual via the switch by the driver. I'm a pretty strong guy but they almost would not budge. I ended up disconnecting the cables and now they roll fine like a manual door ought to. I hate these automatic doors, really. They're pretty dangerous I think.

My doors don't latch open though. I still have to investigate that and got some advice here on what to check in a thread of my own. Haven't taken it apart to look yet.
 
#73 ·
Doors Won't Open!!!
Have you perused the first page of this thread for possible solutions?

Lots of info in there.
And step by step instructions fwiw.

Good Luck

Keep us informed of you failures and successes.
 
#77 ·
Look at the bottom roller for the catch and latch with the door completely open. Maybe the latch thing is stuck open.
 
#79 ·
OK, so this is my first post here. I bought a 2010 Honda Odyssey a few months ago and had a couple of instances where the battery went completely flat after not starting it for a few days. So I started doing some research and wound up up here.

And I figured it was one of the 2 doors and the Micro switches. So I pulled fuse 7 but then I got tired of doing that. And I bought something called a switched fuse. Which is like 10 or $15 on the internet.. And basically it's just a fuse plug in with a switch on it. And you put your own fuse in there. So that basically the fuse can be shut off or on...

The circuit will be opened up so no current will flow and that will solve the problem and then every time I get out of the car, I turn the switch off and every time I come back in to start the car, I turn the switch on and I don't have to pull the fuse or put the fuse back in. So thanks for all the help with the various posts here.
 
#80 ·
OK, so this is my first post here. I bought a 2010 Honda Odyssey a few months ago and had a couple of instances where the battery went completely flat after not starting it for a few days. So I started doing some research and wound up up here.

And I figured it was one of the 2 doors and the Micro switches. So I pulled fuse 7 but then I got tired of doing that. And I bought something called a switched fuse. Which is like 10 or $15 on the internet.. And basically it's just a fuse plug in with a switch on it. And you put your own fuse in there. So that basically the fuse can be shut off or on...

The circuit will be opened up so no current will flow and that will solve the problem and then every time I get out of the car, I turn the switch off and every time I come back in to start the car, I turn the switch on and I don't have to pull the fuse or put the fuse back in. So thanks for all the help with the various posts here.
Welcome to this forum. I assume that you determined your battery drain issue was caused by the sliding door(s) rear latch? You did not explicitly indicate if your pulling of fuse 7 resolved the battery drain issue or not. installing the switched fuse seems like a good temporary fix.
You may want to consider fixing the issue for good by dealing with the rear latch micro switch issue as described in this thread. Are you having any sliding door issues?
 
#82 ·
Well why not fix the actual problem?
 
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#83 ·
Hello, I am hoping for some advice. The driver side sliding door will not open for me, but the passenger side works fine. I have checked the secondary under the hood fuses, and no change. I swapped the fuses on the odd chance it was something I missed with the fuse and no change.

I reset the #7 fuse on driver side and nothing changed. I checked the fuel door switch, it is working fine. Manually pressing/depressing the fuel door sensor, you can hear the door locks/unlocks.

It is possible to manually open the driver side sliding door. The door locks, power window works. However, trying to open that door there is no audio cue at all. No beep, nothing.

There appears to be no parasitic drain, as this is seldom used car, regularly days or weeks between uses. It always starts fine.

I searched the forum and read this thread, and I didn't see anyone mention a like for like problem.

Any ideas?
 
#84 ·
Hello, I am hoping for some advice. The driver side sliding door will not open for me, but the passenger side works fine. I have checked the secondary under the hood fuses, and no change. I swapped the fuses on the odd chance it was something I missed with the fuse and no change.

I reset the #7 fuse on driver side and nothing changed. I checked the fuel door switch, it is working fine. Manually pressing/depressing the fuel door sensor, you can hear the door locks/unlocks.

It is possible to manually open the driver side sliding door. The door locks, power window works. However, trying to open that door there is no audio cue at all. No beep, nothing.

There appears to be no parasitic drain, as this is seldom used car, regularly days or weeks between uses. It always starts fine.

I searched the forum and read this thread, and I didn't see anyone mention a like for like problem.

Any ideas?
Did you try opening the driver side door manually?? I mean it is supposed to open... Mine is an 07 and it won't open manually or power assisted.

However if the manual mode is selected it is supposed be possible to open both doors this way.
 
#85 ·
Welcome to the OdyClub!
Hello, I am hoping for some advice. The driver side sliding door will not open for me, but the passenger side works fine. I have checked the secondary under the hood fuses, and no change. I swapped the fuses on the odd chance it was something I missed with the fuse and no change.
My issue was resolved after doing the reset procedure.
I reset the #7 fuse on driver side and nothing changed. I checked the fuel door switch, it is working fine. Manually pressing/depressing the fuel door sensor, you can hear the door locks/unlocks.
I think removing/replacing that fuse and then opening/closing the door manually resets it.
The problem turned out to be the cable, which was bound up within the sheath between the motor and the front side of the middle roller. We thought maybe it was bound up in the motor, but the first cable cut didn't free it. A second cut just in the slight door crack, on the unsheathed cable did the trick. It was just stuck inside the sheath, and the roller operates manually just fine.
It is possible to manually open the driver side sliding door. The door locks, power window works. However, trying to open that door there is no audio cue at all. No beep, nothing.
Oh- so the door opens manually, so the above quote does not apply.
So with the Slide Door switch on, it will not open if you press the driver slide door switch?
And it does not open if you pull the inner or outer door handle?
And it does not open from the fob but the passenger door does?
When you open/close it manually, does it move smoothly?
Is the SLIDE DOOR light on in the gauge cluster?
 
#86 ·
So with the Slide Door switch on, it will not open if you press the driver slide door switch?
Nope. Does not open.

And it does not open if you pull the inner or outer door handle?
And it does not open from the fob but the passenger door does?
When you open/close it manually, does it move smoothly?
Is the SLIDE DOOR light on in the gauge cluster?
Does not open if I pull inner or outer door handle. The FOB opens the passenger door, but the driver side door in question does not respond. No beep or anything. Don't hear anything engage, click, etc....

When you open/close it manually, does it move smoothly?
Is the SLIDE DOOR light on in the gauge cluster?
Other than the hard resistance that occurs when opening the initial door, it does [seem to] move smoothly on the track. I don't know how this compares to non-powered sliding doors though, i.e. what is "hard" vs "soft; moreover what is "normal."

The SD indicator on the driver console light up when I open manually.
 
#87 ·
Nope. Does not open.
These doors are problematic. I just had issues with each door separately today (what are the odds? Pretty good in these old vans I guess), first the pax side wouldn’t open automatically then the driver door wouldn’t open at all.

I have lubed latches and replaced rollers in the past but never unable to open a door at all. After taking someone's direction from another (?) thread after searching (thanks whoever that was!) I was able to kick open the driver door (power doors switch off then a firm kick out at the rear from inside at the same time you open the handle) and re-WD40 the rear latches on both and now I’m back to fully functional.

The moral: It's probably the rear latch. It usually is.
 
#91 ·
I recently bought an 07 ex odyssey that I'm turning into a work van for my appliance repair business.

The slide door light is on and the battery is draining slowly.
Because this is going to be a work van, I'd prefer that the doors be manual all of the time anyways.
Is it possible to trick the computer into thinking everything is fine, stopping the battery drain, and shutting off that light? I'm swamped right now and simply don't have the time to diagnose and fix this system. I'd rather just bypass all of the complex sensors and electronics and have entirely manual doors if possible.

Thanks for your help
 
#100 ·
RE: a failed rear latch assembly… FWIW, it’s possible to refurbish the existing microswitch on the harness. I traced my B2038 error to a faulty base position switch: ABJ39242 (NC). I was pressed for time, and didn’t have anything to lose vs. paying/waiting for a new switch or latch assembly. So I used a tiny jewelers flat blade screwdriver to very carefully remove the top cap. Underneath, the contacts were gummed up with 19 years of black grime. A Q-tip, some isopropyl alcohol, and a scrap of 1000 grit sandpaper between the contacts cleaned it right up, and a multimeter confirmed consistent operation. Total cost: ~$0, ~15 mins, no soldering required.

Note: If you overpry and break some of the 4 tiny tangs that secure the top cap, you can probably just glue it back in place.

Image
 
#101 ·
I replaced the microswitch with I found from amazon something like this from amazon. It worked initially for sometime, and then now the sliding door light came back again, and the remote wouldn't open either left or right, depends. I haven't have time to dig into this so I have to pull the #7 fuse out to reset it. I haven't tried the more complicated procedures to reset it yet.
 
#102 ·
You should have bought the actual Panasonic switches that are readily available from Digi-Key. I think they are about $7 each. The latch uses both NC and NO switches. I forget how many of each. Replace them all.
I would get rid of the Amazon switches you bought and installed.
 
#106 ·
Hi! So the hesitation followed by a loud popping will be the actuator? In the posted video for the actuator repair that guy didn’t have any popping noise.
I can tell my sliding door is starting to go bad.
Had to replace the Actuator in my drivers (swinging) door last year, it was tedious but not difficult.
Usually, yes. Post a video of the symptom to confirm.

Understand that this is not the same as the door lock actuator. Two different things.
 
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#107 ·
Hey there friends.
So about a month ago, my passenger side door stopped opening with the button, fob, or handle. The sliding door dashlight came on.

The door would manually open up about 4 inches and then would require a good amount of force to get it open the rest of the way. I took this symptom to mean the center rollers needed replacing as I had noticed how squeaky the door had become.

After replacing the rollers, the door now opens all of the way manually.

When I reset the door after pulling the fuse, the door opens and closes just fine but only does so about 3-4 times before it stops working completely; no response from button, fob, handle. Dashlight is on.

I opened the door, took out the rear latch assembly, cleaned it out, oiled it up, and reinstalled.
Worked fine for 3-4 cycles then stopped working, with all the previous symptoms.

Now this is the second time I've opened up the door to clean out the latch assembly. The first time was probably about 2 years ago and that fix worked fine until now.

I'm assuming that getting a new latch assembly would be the fix although it'd set me back $250ish. I didn't think to check the microswitches as I assumed they were in working order as the door would work after a reset.

Am I missing something else completely? Should I just check the microswitches? Or for the sake of time, bite the bullet and get a new assembly? Thanks for reading!
 
#109 ·
If you want to save time but still get info, use the foil trick to read the code tripping the Slide Door light. If you have a bad switch that should expose it.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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