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I replaced the microswitch with I found from amazon something like this from amazon. It worked initially for sometime, and then now the sliding door light came back again, and the remote wouldn't open either left or right, depends. I haven't have time to dig into this so I have to pull the #7 fuse out to reset it. I haven't tried the more complicated procedures to reset it yet.
 
I replaced the microswitch with I found from amazon something like this from amazon. It worked initially for sometime, and then now the sliding door light came back again, and the remote wouldn't open either left or right, depends. I haven't have time to dig into this so I have to pull the #7 fuse out to reset it. I haven't tried the more complicated procedures to reset it yet.
You should have bought the actual Panasonic switches that are readily available from Digi-Key. I think they are about $7 each. The latch uses both NC and NO switches. I forget how many of each. Replace them all.
I would get rid of the Amazon switches you bought and installed.
 
You should have bought the actual Panasonic switches that are readily available from Digi-Key. I think they are about $7 each. The latch uses both NC and NO switches. I forget how many of each. Replace them all.
I would get rid of the Amazon switches you bought and installed.
I heard you. if it was a bad switch, then why the door would work for couple times after I reset with the #7 fuse? That is why I never though about the switch again. Everything else seems to be fine, after I lubed all the seals, and tracks.

Thanks
 
Discussion starter · #104 ·
I heard you. if it was a bad switch, then why the door would work for couple times after I reset with the #7 fuse? That is why I never though about the switch again. Everything else seems to be fine, after I lubed all the seals, and tracks.

Thanks
Electrical failures can be like that. It works for a couple times when you reset it and tell it to forget about it, then the switch acts up again, the light comes on, and it's disabled. This is not uncommon at all.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
Hi! So the hesitation followed by a loud popping will be the actuator? In the posted video for the actuator repair that guy didn’t have any popping noise.
I can tell my sliding door is starting to go bad.
Had to replace the Actuator in my drivers (swinging) door last year, it was tedious but not difficult.
 
Discussion starter · #106 ·
Hi! So the hesitation followed by a loud popping will be the actuator? In the posted video for the actuator repair that guy didn’t have any popping noise.
I can tell my sliding door is starting to go bad.
Had to replace the Actuator in my drivers (swinging) door last year, it was tedious but not difficult.
Usually, yes. Post a video of the symptom to confirm.

Understand that this is not the same as the door lock actuator. Two different things.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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Hey there friends.
So about a month ago, my passenger side door stopped opening with the button, fob, or handle. The sliding door dashlight came on.

The door would manually open up about 4 inches and then would require a good amount of force to get it open the rest of the way. I took this symptom to mean the center rollers needed replacing as I had noticed how squeaky the door had become.

After replacing the rollers, the door now opens all of the way manually.

When I reset the door after pulling the fuse, the door opens and closes just fine but only does so about 3-4 times before it stops working completely; no response from button, fob, handle. Dashlight is on.

I opened the door, took out the rear latch assembly, cleaned it out, oiled it up, and reinstalled.
Worked fine for 3-4 cycles then stopped working, with all the previous symptoms.

Now this is the second time I've opened up the door to clean out the latch assembly. The first time was probably about 2 years ago and that fix worked fine until now.

I'm assuming that getting a new latch assembly would be the fix although it'd set me back $250ish. I didn't think to check the microswitches as I assumed they were in working order as the door would work after a reset.

Am I missing something else completely? Should I just check the microswitches? Or for the sake of time, bite the bullet and get a new assembly? Thanks for reading!
 
Discussion starter · #109 ·
Hey there friends.
So about a month ago, my passenger side door stopped opening with the button, fob, or handle. The sliding door dashlight came on.

The door would manually open up about 4 inches and then would require a good amount of force to get it open the rest of the way. I took this symptom to mean the center rollers needed replacing as I had noticed how squeaky the door had become.

After replacing the rollers, the door now opens all of the way manually.

When I reset the door after pulling the fuse, the door opens and closes just fine but only does so about 3-4 times before it stops working completely; no response from button, fob, handle. Dashlight is on.

I opened the door, took out the rear latch assembly, cleaned it out, oiled it up, and reinstalled.
Worked fine for 3-4 cycles then stopped working, with all the previous symptoms.

Now this is the second time I've opened up the door to clean out the latch assembly. The first time was probably about 2 years ago and that fix worked fine until now.

I'm assuming that getting a new latch assembly would be the fix although it'd set me back $250ish. I didn't think to check the microswitches as I assumed they were in working order as the door would work after a reset.

Am I missing something else completely? Should I just check the microswitches? Or for the sake of time, bite the bullet and get a new assembly? Thanks for reading!
If you want to save time but still get info, use the foil trick to read the code tripping the Slide Door light. If you have a bad switch that should expose it.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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Both of my automatic door are manual now. They were both disconnected when I changed the middle roller assembly on both doors. The driver side sliders rear latch assembly is bad & I also believe the motor is bad as well. So my battery is draining badly. I don't have anyone who can fix the rear latch assembly on my van without it costing me a small fortune. So I installed a trickle charger on my battery. I plug it in while at home and I have a battery bank I plug it into when I'm out. I previously purchased the battery bank for other uses so I didn't buy it specifically for this issue. I'll use it for this for now.
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I read every post here. My symptoms on my 2008 EX-L seem different. I have not yet taken the door apart, but I am diagnosing prior to that step. Passenger door is fine. Driver's door issue is being described.

1. There is no door related code. The only code is B1233, the heating/cooling actuator, and that has been an issue for a long time that I just have not spent the money to fix. No other codes are listed.
2. The door locks and unlocks normally. It does not try to relock. In addition, if I open the door to the fuel filler, I can hear a powered item change positions. When I close it, I hear it change. So I think the fuel door interlock is okay.
3. Rollers are fine. If the power door switch is off, it can be opened and closed using the inside handle quite easily. The rollers were relaced within the last 20,000 miles.
4. No audible alarms related to this door. No beeps or anything. I can get beeps by stopping the passenger door from opening, so this does not appear to be an issue with sound generation.
5. If the power door switch is off, the door can be manually opened and closed using the inside handle quite easily. But not from the outside. When I pull on the outside handle, nothing happens. If I manually open the door using the inside handle and then pull on the outside handle, I see it moving the latch mechanism. I can close the door using the outside handle.
6. This door stopped working suddenly.
7. No dash warning lights are on.
8. I pulled #7, waited and reinserted. Nothing changed.
9. Child lock level is off.
10. Before failure, the door sounded like it really enjoyed pulling the door closed tight. Like it wanted to crush a soda can. And it popped open happily. The sounds were completely different than the videos posted. It just sounded like it wanted to pull it in an extra 1/8" compared to the other door.

Thank you for helping!
 
I read every post here. My symptoms on my 2008 EX-L seem different...
The fix was actually really easy. I mentioned that I reset the fuse, right? Apparently, the door refused to work until after I entered the security passcode into the radio (after the reset). Once the code was properly entered, the door immediately began to work again.

I hope this helps someone.
 
Team. I've done the middle roller repair last year and it's come back with a vengeance and never was as smooth as I had hoped. I have not taken back apart yet to examine but are there are issues with rollers in the top or bottom that can cause the same jerk and backup behavior common with the failed middle roller? Or has my aftermarket roller assembly already failed even with very infrequent (once a week) use?
 
Discussion starter · #114 ·
Team. I've done the middle roller repair last year and it's come back with a vengeance and never was as smooth as I had hoped. I have not taken back apart yet to examine but are there are issues with rollers in the top or bottom that can cause the same jerk and backup behavior common with the failed middle roller? Or has my aftermarket roller assembly already failed even with very infrequent (once a week) use?
Aftermarket rollers last about as long as you'd expect (not very long). I installed an OEM part in early 2020 and it's still doing great.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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Aftermarket rollers last about as long as you'd expect (not very long). I installed an OEM part in early 2020 and it's still doing great.
Bummer but starting to read that around the inter tubes. Honestly, this is a 3rd vehicle never used so I had hoped this is not the case but I think I'm just going to take apart tonight and hit the dealer in the AM. Looks like they are about $75 in 2024. Thx.
 
Team. I've done the middle roller repair last year and it's come back with a vengeance and never was as smooth as I had hoped. I have not taken back apart yet to examine but are there are issues with rollers in the top or bottom that can cause the same jerk and backup behavior common with the failed middle roller? Or has my aftermarket roller assembly already failed even with very infrequent (once a week) use?
It’s rare that the top or bottom rollers have issues.
the middle roller has to be genuine Honda. The good news is they are very inexpensive at discount sites such as Majestic Honda. $60 I recall. Aftermarket rollers are junk.
 
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It’s rare that the top or bottom rollers have issues.
the middle roller has to be genuine Honda. The good news is they are very inexpensive at discount sites such as Majestic Honda. $60 I recall. Aftermarket rollers are junk.
EDIT: Got door aligned and I think things are better then when I did it last time. The 2nd bolt (back) was lose and allowed the hinge to be crooked putting pressure on the roller guide and eating up the forward roller.

FYI although the cheapest I Found online was $68 I had to pony up for $92 at the Honda Dealer in the area (Marysville Ohio) that charges a premium over the count but was open til 8PM.

So it works 98% better but every now and then it seems to go back "to far" and then it takes to hits of the button to get it started. Where are the bump stops located I see mentioned that might keep the door from going to far back on an open. I see people talking about one that falls of or deteriorates and I see nothing on the top or bottom slides.
 
Ugh, my battery died when my son did not tell me about the rear latch sticking and even after re-charge, it has no power (voltage will drop immediately when try to start the car). Surprised that it died only after the battery was drawn down once. Got a new battery under warranty and now I broke down and finally ordered a new rear latch which I will install over the weekend (hopefully it will get here in time). I will check battery voltage daily though it does not look like the latch isn't sticking any more. I pulled out the latch and lubricated and put back in and it worked for a season, then everytime it got stuck, I used 3 bolt method but it is getting more and more frequent that I have to do this so new latch should fix the issue.
 
We’ve had a slide door light on for awhile that I kept meaning to try and reset because the power door on the driver side wouldn’t open automatically. When we had a new alternator put in last week, the light went away. I tested the driver side door and it opened automatically. That worked twice before it stopped working and the slide door light came back on. Any ideas? This minivan is a 2006 with 180k miles so I probably won’t be doing any major repairs for a door that’s still operable in manual mode but if there’s something easy I’d like to try. No noises or other weird things when it stopped working.
 
Discussion starter · #120 ·
We’ve had a slide door light on for awhile that I kept meaning to try and reset because the power door on the driver side wouldn’t open automatically. When we had a new alternator put in last week, the light went away. I tested the driver side door and it opened automatically. That worked twice before it stopped working and the slide door light came back on. Any ideas? This minivan is a 2006 with 180k miles so I probably won’t be doing any major repairs for a door that’s still operable in manual mode but if there’s something easy I’d like to try. No noises or other weird things when it stopped working.
The motor is disabled when the light comes on, so that makes sense. But that light also means there's a code stored, and you should read the code. Use the foil trick linked in the original post to read it. It's probably a rear latch issue.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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