[MN Murph]

Door stuck shut. Rear latch has released. The front latch appears to be completely latched. The door is unresponsive. I want to get it open to remove the door panel and start troubleshooting.

Thanks in advance. 07 EX-L.
I've read throughout here and elsewhere and can't find this same issue...
I stopped short of hanging the dealership diagnose the problem for $170/hr, but am second guessing that...
The door is stuck shut, almost completely, but the rear latch has released when using the handle to open door manually (the door doesn't open).
Somehow, the dealership returned the car with the door fully closed, but I don't know how they did that.
"SLIDING DOOR" indicator light is on on dash.
Dealership said it gave a code B2082, right sliding door motor pulse signal error stored.
The door locks, though sometimes only when pressing the drivers actual lock (not the button on the armrest, the one next to the window) down. I think they scratched the vehicle, but it's already scratched up on that's side from a previous owner.
I recently replaced the center roller with genuine honda part, and tried my best to align it same as where it was before. The door worked much better for two weeks, smooth and quiet, and then it did this.

 

[MN Murph]

I tried disconnecting the battery. I checked the right power sliding door fuses in the secondary underhood and passenger boxes, and the driver box fuse #7. But I just visually inspected.

 

[MN Murph]

Once I get the door panel off, I will check the front assembly for seized movement in need of lube and working back and forth. And, the other common suspect is the microswitch on the rear latch assembly.

 

[WiiMaster]

If your rear latch is releasing it's probably fine. What has happened is the motor has thrown a code, which always stops door operation. You have to pull the #7 fuse for a little while, then put it back. That will reset the code. I suspect your motor may be stuck. Snapped cable perhaps?

 

[dntboles]

@MN Murph I'll give you the same advice I give others with door issues... A Foxwell NT510 Elite code reader can tell you what each switch and sensor is seeing, in real time. I bought one for $180 and was able to test each function and pin down my real issue and repair it, rather than just guessing at it or buying random parts hoping they'd work. I'm sure there are others that will do the same, but that's the one I bought. (I'm not affiliated with the company nor do I gain anything from saying this. I just know it helped me so I hope it can help you.)

On to your specifics: "I want to get it open to remove the door panel and start troubleshooting." At the main switch (internal, left of steering wheel), flip it to the OFF mode. That "should" allow you to open and close it manually, releasing anything that's holding it in place.

Assuming you have just B2082, the book basically has you check wiring (through a lot of continuity checks) then (if all the wiring is good) eventually either replace the right power sliding door control unit or the right power slide motor assembly.

The checks it has you do can all be done with the code reader, without taking off panels or busting out a multimeter. I can PM you more details, if you choose to go the route of manually checking wiring and signals.

Based on you saying you replaced the center roller I'll say don't second guess yourself on paying $170 per hour. You got this! You may not know the solution yet, but you will figure it out.

 

[celicool]

You will need to manhandle the door if you hope to get it opened. If you follow my instruction, do it at your own risk.

1. Disconnect the battery. By default when the battery is disconnected, the Cable Motor Assemblies are disengaged and are free to travel open/closed.
2. Remove the middle passenger side captain chair to make room. Be sure the door is in unlocked position (latch up)
3. Now, get into position so that your left hand can pull the handle back and push the door backward (with right hand too on the door) while your right leg kick the rear of the door outward. You must do this forcefully to get the door opened. Like I said "Manhandle it". Your hands and leg kick coordination must happen at the same time. Keep in mind that during normal operation, the door would pop out first before it could move rearward (when open) so that is why your hands and leg need the coordination as said.

Good luck! and post back the result.

 

[MN Murph]

You will need to manhandle the door if you hope to get it opened. If you follow my instruction, do it at your own risk.

1. Disconnect the battery. By default when the battery is disconnected, the Cable Motor Assemblies are disengaged and are free to travel open/closed.
2. Remove the middle passenger side captain chair to make room. Be sure the door is in unlocked position (latch up)
3. Now, get into position so that your left hand can pull the handle back and push the door backward (with right hand too on the door) while your right leg kick the rear of the door outward. You must do this forcefully to get the door opened. Like I said "Manhandle it". Your hands and leg kick coordination must happen at the same time. Keep in mind that during normal operation, the door would pop out first before it could move rearward (when open) so that is why your hands and leg need the coordination as said.

Good luck! and post back the result.

I haven't gotten to this yet because I was waiting to hear if anyone's had to do something similar, force open with the front latch still engaged. I was imagining removing that chair and bracing my back against the next one to push with my legs 😬 Thanks for the idea. Will post when I get to it.

 

[MN Murph]

You will need to manhandle the door if you hope to get it opened. If you follow my instruction, do it at your own risk.

1. Disconnect the battery. By default when the battery is disconnected, the Cable Motor Assemblies are disengaged and are free to travel open/closed.
2. Remove the middle passenger side captain chair to make room. Be sure the door is in unlocked position (latch up)
3. Now, get into position so that your left hand can pull the handle back and push the door backward (with right hand too on the door) while your right leg kick the rear of the door outward. You must do this forcefully to get the door opened. Like I said "Manhandle it". Your hands and leg kick coordination must happen at the same time. Keep in mind that during normal operation, the door would pop out first before it could move rearward (when open) so that is why your hands and leg need the coordination as said.

Good luck! and post back the result.

@MN Murph I'll give you the same advice I give others with door issues... A Foxwell NT510 Elite code reader can tell you what each switch and sensor is seeing, in real time. I bought one for $180 and was able to test each function and pin down my real issue and repair it, rather than just guessing at it or buying random parts hoping they'd work. I'm sure there are others that will do the same, but that's the one I bought. (I'm not affiliated with the company nor do I gain anything from saying this. I just know it helped me so I hope it can help you.)

On to your specifics: "I want to get it open to remove the door panel and start troubleshooting." At the main switch (internal, left of steering wheel), flip it to the OFF mode. That "should" allow you to open and close it manually, releasing anything that's holding it in place.

Assuming you have just B2082, the book basically has you check wiring (through a lot of continuity checks) then (if all the wiring is good) eventually either replace the right power sliding door control unit or the right power slide motor assembly.

The checks it has you do can all be done with the code reader, without taking off panels or busting out a multimeter. I can PM you more details, if you choose to go the route of manually checking wiring and signals.

Based on you saying you replaced the center roller I'll say don't second guess yourself on paying $170 per hour. You got this! You may not know the solution yet, but you will figure it out.

Thanks, I will checkout the code reader. I have tried opening the door in manual mode (OFF) but haven't had luck with that yet.

 

[MN Murph]

@MN Murph Foxwell NT510 Elite code reader can tell you what each switch and sensor is seeing, in real time. I bought one for $180 and was able to test each function and pin down my real issue and repair it, rather than just guessing at it or buying random parts...

Based on you saying you replaced the center roller I'll say don't second guess yourself on paying $170 per hour.

I appreciate the vote of confidence!

I searched yt and this is it working for Honda

It sure would be neat to see what it displays related to sliding doors since they're such a source of issues.

 

[MN Murph]

Good luck! and post back the result.

That worked to open the door! It didn't even complain or resist much. It came open easier than I expected, probly 50-100lbs worth of force. I did it coordinated like you suggested.

So far as 'how far' it's opening... it is being met with increasing resistance, opening almost a foot worth of track. It seems the cable tension is increasing as it opens. So as far as THAT "disengaging," it figures it didn't get the message.

I moved the door back and forth around the bend in the track, and listened to and watched the roller to see if it was that that was binding. But it seemed it is the cable tension more likely because from inside and outside you can hear a tensiony creaking from the rear end of the roller track area.

I reconnected the battery and checked for responsiveness using the switch and remote... still completely unresponsive. Seems maybe the switch (on the rear latch assembly) is a likely culprit. I picked up a pack of em (microswitches), in case, for $7. But I have to pickup some soldering gear cause I don't think I have everything.

I disconnected the battery and shut the door (manually). The handle is getting a response now, and the door completely (front and rear) latches and unlatches, I did it 4 or so times, not wanting to test it further right meow.

 

[celicool]

That worked to open the door! It didn't even complain or resist much. It came open easier than I expected, probly 50-100lbs worth of force. I did it coordinated like you suggested.

So far as 'how far' it's opening... it is being met with increasing resistance, opening almost a foot worth of track. It seems the cable tension is increasing as it opens. So as far as THAT "disengaging," it figures it didn't get the message.

I moved the door back and forth around the bend in the track, and listened to and watched the roller to see if it was that that was binding. But it seemed it is the cable tension more likely because from inside and outside you can hear a tensiony creaking from the rear end of the roller track area.

It sounds to me that your problem is on the Cable Motor Assembly and possibly your mid-roller too. I am going to copy&paste and link you to another thread which I gave the same advice to (save some typing).

===========
Each sliding door is closed/opened via the Cable Motor Unit housed in each side of the rear quarter panel. The driver side is a bit easier to access than the passenger side because the passenger side has the rear HVAC.

First, I would disconnect the battery then see if you can close/open the door now. If it is still a no-go then read on. Note that you will need to have your radio code, dvd code, and NAVI code handy if you disconnect your battery.

I can only think of two possible causes in your case.
1st is that your sliding door is physically obstructed from closing by either something broken or binding to a worn part. An obvious scenario comes to mind is the mid-roller possibly already lost the plastic rollers and now the metal pins are digging into the track. Note that there are only 3 possible contact points of your sliding door to the vehicle while the sliding door is moving--the top roller, the mid-roller, and the bottom roller. The top and bottom rollers rarely become an issue on this board. 99% of the time, it's the mid-roller that causes the issue. That said, you need to check bottom roller compartment to make sure that it is clear of trash and debris that easily have collected in there over the years.

2nd possible cause is that your Cable Motor Unit ceased up due to your neglect of the sliding door over the years. Cease-up here means it stops allowing the cable to wind and unwind freely when your sliding door button is deactivated. Fortunately, you can test this theory with not too much of a hassle by disconnecting your battery then perform the same procedure like you were going to replace the mid-roller (removing the tail light, front and rear screws of the rail cover, and disconnect the 2 ends of the cable from the mid-roller). Now pull on each end of the cable and see if each end would go. If you can pull each end freely then the issue is not at the Cable Motor Unit. However, if you can't pull each end of the cable freely, then the issue is at the Cable Motor Assembly unit. Hence, you probably need a new unit.

I would recommend getting a used OEM unit from Ebay. Honda Cable Motor Assembly units are not known for defective. They usually break or get worn out by unnecessary extra loads often caused by worn out mid-rollers and/or other binding parts.

Warning: if your decide to remove your mid-roller, your first need to trace an outline of its position to the door before removing it. Otherwise, you would have not a so good time to adjust it back with a new replacement unit.
===========
Here is the link to the thread.

2007 - pass sliding door stuck open

Hey all, My wife was at grocery store the other night and as they were getting ready to leave store, it seems the sliding door won’t close. I drove car home with the door open. Would be great if someone is able to point me in the direction of what needs to be fixed. Before this happened the door...

www.odyclub.com

 

[MN Murph]

Mine had a frayed cable that must've been bunching up inside the closer side (front). I finally had to (emergency sort of) resort to removing the cables from the center roller, making it a manual door now. I removed the closer fuse too, interior passenger fusebox #8 20A, hopefully that's a good idea🧐

 

[rcolbeck]

You will need to manhandle the door if you hope to get it opened. If you follow my instruction, do it at your own risk.

1. Disconnect the battery. By default when the battery is disconnected, the Cable Motor Assemblies are disengaged and are free to travel open/closed.
2. Remove the middle passenger side captain chair to make room. Be sure the door is in unlocked position (latch up)
3. Now, get into position so that your left hand can pull the handle back and push the door backward (with right hand too on the door) while your right leg kick the rear of the door outward. You must do this forcefully to get the door opened. Like I said "Manhandle it". Your hands and leg kick coordination must happen at the same time. Keep in mind that during normal operation, the door would pop out first before it could move rearward (when open) so that is why your hands and leg need the coordination as said.

Good luck! and post back the result.

2008 Oddy: I had to do this and finally my passenger door opened a few inches. Then I had to go outside and put the hook end of a pry bar on the middle slider and tug until finally I got it to move more and got the door fully open. What an ordeal! I then replaced the slider and the power door is working reasonably well now. At first I was working on getting the inside trim off but that didn’t seem that easy and I did break some of the plastic. Took me all days to do both the driver and passenger sliding doors.
Roger

 

[lemmegirl]

Mine had a frayed cable that must've been bunching up inside the closer side (front). I finally had to (emergency sort of) resort to removing the cables from the center roller, making it a manual door now. I removed the closer fuse too, interior passenger fusebox #8 20A, hopefully that's a good idea🧐

 

[HoneyOddysee]

If your rear latch is releasing it's probably fine. What has happened is the motor has thrown a code, which always stops door operation. You have to pull the #7 fuse for a little while, then put it back. That will reset the code. I suspect your motor may be stuck. Snapped cable perhaps?

 

[HoneyOddysee]

Where is this no. 7 fuse. For door. I looked at fuse panel drivers side, passengers, and under hood. Had questions on some abbreviations definitions on fuse panels, and where to find the answers, the dealer parts Dept didnot help. Is tailgate hooked up with some other fuse, where is it. Thanks for any advice,

 

[SpecRacer97]

You will need to manhandle the door if you hope to get it opened. If you follow my instruction, do it at your own risk.

1. Disconnect the battery. By default when the battery is disconnected, the Cable Motor Assemblies are disengaged and are free to travel open/closed.
2. Remove the middle passenger side captain chair to make room. Be sure the door is in unlocked position (latch up)
3. Now, get into position so that your left hand can pull the handle back and push the door backward (with right hand too on the door) while your right leg kick the rear of the door outward. You must do this forcefully to get the door opened. Like I said "Manhandle it". Your hands and leg kick coordination must happen at the same time. Keep in mind that during normal operation, the door would pop out first before it could move rearward (when open) so that is why your hands and leg need the coordination as said.

Good luck! and post back the result.

This worked like a charm...eventually! My door was stuck almost closed, but not 100%. It wouldn't budge. I could see in the cracks that the rollers had broken off and the stubs were jammed out of the track. The door was lodged shut and I think the motor tried to pull it in once it got almost there. So, I worked at it for over 30 minutes and at one point thought it just wasn't going to open. I had my wife help me as we both took turns pulling the handle while kicking the door outward. Eventually, with enough force and coordination with the handle, it finally popped open! I could then manipulate the door fully open and replace the broken wheel assembly.