Agreed. I bought one a while back and now I wonder why I went so long without one. Best $30 you can spend.

 

In my experience, the best $30 you can spend is on "no-reason" flowers for SWMBO.

 

I bought one a couple years ago after seeing ericthecarguy recommend it in one of his videos - money well spent!


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Yes, you guys were right, the only I regretted that I didn't know or buy it long time ago but glad I did now

 

Here is a sinikar one for $20 with Amazon Prime:

EPAuto Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L-PUzbJPH3CEH

Here is the same Lisle on Amazon Prime for $25:

Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tcQUzbKYVG1X9

 

Here is a sinikar one for $20 with Amazon Prime:

EPAuto Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L-PUzbJPH3CEH

Here is the same Lisle on Amazon Prime for $25:

Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tcQUzbKYVG1X9

I bought one off ebay for $27, for $7 dollar more, I rather and preferred the clear funnel, you can see the fluid level, and it's a Lisle It's me

 

I have had it so long, it came as a smaller kit without 45 degree elbows and extension. Still, I have used it on most every car I have done coolant jobs on and its a life saver.
I was able to buy the new add-ons separately.

 

If you like that funnel, and I do as I have one, one better if you have a source of compressed air is an Airlift device. These are the bee's knees for refilling coolant systems while at the same time verify leak-free cooling systems.

 

I actually have a similar device to Airlift, it came with my pressure test kit by ATD.
I have used it exactly once, just to see if I like it better than Lisle. My opinion is that its not.
Usage wise it was not complicated, but it took a while to draw vacuum on the system, and it looks neat to see huge coolant hoses collapse.
When refilling, you have to draw coolant from one container large enough to fill the entire system. Typically coolant comes in 1gal containers,
so combining two gallons into yet another just adds more stuff that needs to be cleaned, and since coolant is bad for environment, I try to minimize
spillage and cleaning. After all the system refilled, I still had to add coolant the old fashion way and then bleed the system.
Maybe it was operator error, maybe the ATD device is not as good as airlift, but overall process seemed more involved and still required manual work
at the end.

 

I need to get one of those

 

I just ordered one of these from Amazon. Is it pretty much just used for coolant filling? Any other nifty uses for it? Thanks.

 

Beer


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I bought the EPAuto funnel from Amazon for $19.99. Worked like a charm and it is translucent.

 

Is EPAuto legit? I bought a tekton torque wrench and a EPAuto torque wrench, I swear everything was same except the logo. Same thing with the EPAuto funnel, the lisle funnel was yellow and the EPAuto was different colors, everything else looked and functioned the same.

 

I'm not sure I follow you. It's a passive plastic funnel. I don't really care if it's a copycat or not, it's less expensive and it works. It's from Amazon so it's returnable if need be. I failed to see how any other brand of spill proof funnel would work any better.

 

A lot of good tools are "re-badged" versions of other good tools. I have a pair of S-K torque wrenches that look identical to items manufactured by ATD (tool manufacturer that makes really good torque wrenches). I think that is what Ranger was getting at.

OF

P.S. I'm all for snazzy colors on that funnel. I'm gonna take a look at getting one.

P.P.S. And flowers for SWMBO. :worship:

P.P.P.S. And a bonus funnel for beer.

 

Guys, I just got one of these.

Finally, got out of the stone age, and I'm done with coolant burbling out of the radiator fill neck onto the car's frame, the garage floor, or onto me.

This wonderful device fits every Japanese car in my garage and driveway. The Odyssey, Accords, Civic, Corolla, Altima, and TL Type S.

Everything fits into the funnel, so easy to store in a garage cabinet and keep it all together.

What took so long for Lisle to invent this?

OF

 

My 2 year schedule is almost up again and I have been wanting to get something like this. LOL, Man, I don't even bother warming up the engine with the cap off (to avoid coolant splash on me)I just fill it up. Put the cap on. Warm the engine , turn it off, let it cool, and then add some more coolant. Then just keep parking the car on our inclined driveway - nose up -and monitor the coolant level for a week. It usually stays level after a few days. Never had issues with trapped air ever. Never done coolant flash ever since I owned a car also. I just drain and fill often.

 

Well, you might still be in the stone age. I haven't used my spill free funnel since I started doing vacuum fills. It's a few more minutes of set up but I haven't had a single air bubble since I started using it. Some newer cars actually require it.

 

What is a vacuum fill?

Our "newest" vehicle is the 2013 Corolla. Everything else in the garage or on the driveway is older.

OF

P.S: Just saw that it's a simple venturi setup. Kind of like an aspirator in a lab. Interesting.

 

Very similar to how an AC system is filled. You suck all the air out of it, then let the system suck the coolant back in. It makes it easy to get all the air out of the system. I can start up an Ody and have heat in the front and rear as soon as it warms up. No air bubbles.

This is the one I have. This isn't a great video and I do it a bit different than this guy but you get the idea. I dump a couple gallons of coolant into a bucket and then let it suck the air out of the fill hose while it's vacuuming. Then let it sit to make sure it holds a vacuum, then let it fill. When it's done, remove the hoses, top off the radiator and expansion tank, put the cap on and you're done.

 

A drain and fill often is all that's needed on these Honda's. You can, however, get air bubbles especially in the rear heat. Been there done that. There is a long procedure in the service manual for making sure all the air is out. The vacuum fill gets all that air out without going through that procedure.

 

So you need an air compressor to use that tool? Amazon prices around 100?

 

Hmmmm .... if acquring newer vehicles force me into getting one, I will. For now, this Lisle funnel and a six-pack (for consumption while waiting for engine to warm up) is fine by me, and still way ahead of the way I was doing it.

Speaking of the stone age, I am going to just sell the Altima. Don't get me wrong, it drives great. The 3.5L four-cam V6 really has good, smooth power delivery everywhere. The handling under power is as close to neutral as I want with a FWD car, with controllable steering even with tires starting to break loose. Brakes are fabulous on OEM pads & rotors. What's not to like?

The engine bay. It's tight. Way too tight. I need multiple shoe horns and timber wedges just to change the blamed alternator. I'm speaking figuratively, of course. The bumper and radiator have to come off the vehicle to remove/replace the alternator. Changing the D2R HID capsules requires bumper off, headlights removed. I'm done with it, finished.

Working on a 3.5L V6 Accord is loads easier in every way. My wife's 2012 EX-L is nowhere near as sporty in any dimension (acceleration, braking, cornering, and combinations thereof) compared to the Nissan, but tonight my banged-up hands have told me it's time to let it go...

...of course, after I top up the coolant (the last step in this difficult job).

OF

 

You too. lol. I just replaced my 2004 Murano alternator less than a month ago. Its basically the same engine. I did not have to remove the radiator or bumper but the cooling fans and batt tray has to come off. And the idler pulley. This car with 100K less miles has more issues than the older odyssey. My wife has been pushing me to look for a new high car according to her. meaning not a sedan.

 

Yes, shop air is needed. There are lots of cars out there that are prone to air entrapment during coolant filling. I don't expect everyone to delve into the vacuum fill method but thought I'd share that it works so good, and so reliably, that I use it on every vehicle I fill. The Astro kit comes with a pressure tester, and all the adapters needed for almost any car. The vacuum fill tool was included but I didn't use it when I first got it. After the first time I decided to try it I was sold.

 

OT: I highly recommend getting rid of those Nissans before the transmission shreds its belt and you have to drop $5k for a factory reman on a car worth only $3k. Seen that too many times.

 

Tell me about it. My Rogue's tranny bit the dust at 78k.. (My '06 Ody with "terrible/weak" transmission is still going strong at 173k)
Fortunately, I got the Rogue as "certified pre-owned" and it had 2 more weeks to go before extended 8 yr 100k mile powertrain warranty to expire so Nissan covered the $4800 cost minus $50 deductible.
I DOUBT it will last to where my 06 ody is now. That said, nothing else broke on Rogue so far (knock on wood) though. (At 80k or so on Ody, PS pump was replaced, motor mounts (both front and back) were replaced, Navi screen has been replaced)

 

As soon as this job is done, the Nissan goes up on Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace. Love the way it drives, just cannot stand these other included "features by Nissan" that kill reliability and make it a bear to work on.

Really do like getting new tools, but still working on changing my "one car garage" back into the "two car garage" that it used to be.

OF

 

EDIT (this para added): hpark21, don't sell your 05-06 Ody, ever. They never go up for sale on Craigslist in my area, because everybody owning one keeps on trucking. If one comes up for sale, it is usually approaching 250,000 miles on the odometer, and still truckin'. Honda not only fixed all of the H5-type transmission 3rd gear oiling issues, they gave it a end-user replaceable cartridge filter (not the canister with what appears to be a smaller filter element). These are the only Odys ever, to my knowledge, with that setup.

Back to the funnel. Going to use the Lisle funnel, either tonight or tomorrow. It may not be the latest and greatest, but for the price (the funnel, and the cost of those two beers I'll drink while using it), it's a gem.

Finally got the Altima's alternator mounting bolt in. It has to be carefully maneuvered behind the pre-cat on the front bank of cylinders. No idea which sadist at Nissan designed this. Had to remove the O2 sensor on that pre-cat to get enough room. Lot of sharp edges in there. I'm a little bloody right now, but at least fairly "normal" work is all that is left: re-install O2 sensor and harness, re-install radiator, then the dual fan assembly, connect radiator and ATF in-tank cooler hoses, finish fabricating a custom additional 4 AWG transmission case-to-chassis ground and install it, install the bumper cover, re-mount the right front wheel [had to remove it to gain access to the $%#@^&*!!! alternator], install serp belt and tensioner, re-install splash guards, re-install bumper cover and grill.

All that for one stinkin' alternator.

I remember once looking at an AC Delco alternator on a Chevy truck and thinking, "Wow, that'd be easy to change." Not that I'd ever have to change one except maybe once every quarter million miles, because AC Delco makes really good alternators. People retrofit them to older Honda Gold Wings, they're the alternator chassis of choice for custom marine applications, etc.

I know Denso makes great alternators ... but this Nissan electrical system is brittle. It seems the Nissan forums are full of people adding grounds all over the place to help ensure the alternator is actually allowed to deliver its power where needed ... it can't do it if "the return path" is constricted.

The most pleasurable aspect of this Nissan Altima 3.5 SE alternator replacement job will be using that Lisle funnel!

OF

 

Yeah, I needed to remove all the front CAT heat shields just to be able to reach for that thru bolt for the top mounting of the alternator on mine. Pain in the butt. Good thing we are handy. lol.

So true, Nissan Jatco CVT is the worse of all. I hear Toyota CVT are the least problematic, while Honda CVT has not much data yet but seems much better than Nissan. My 04 Murano is one of the pioneer bigger CVT installed in a crossover and somehow does not suffer from fluid issues or overheating like the smaller cvts in Nissans line up. Valve body issues, stepper motor and bearing are the common problems. Whats worse is repair is basically impossible due to no replacement parts availability and instructions. Its always complete replacement. I hear reason for this is, assembling back the cvt requires a special expensive tool to be done properly. Otherwise something will be off. Like the belts alignment I suppose. Just speculation. I dunno, but its the reason I am avoiding CVTs for now. However, almost all smaller engine cars now has it and its harder to find one without it. NO escaping from it. lol. I really like how the CVT seamlessly move when doing long trips on cruise control. No gear hunting. Engine braking is great as well on my Murano. But gas mileage is a joke. 18 city/22-24 high way. Anyway, I'm on the hunt for a replacement. No rush though.