[DerbyDad03]

I have the cooler laying in my garage, plan to install in few weeks - would appreciate if you can snap a few photos with the final setup!

I have not tried removing the bumper just yet, bit if you can get an access to the metal brackets the bolts are screwed into - you can usually hold them from spinning with a pair of needle nose pliers or such. Make sure to put some anti-seize on the bolts when assembling them back!

You replied to DerbyDad03 (me) but it is Jadog that is having trouble with his bumper cover.

I don't have my cooler yet because apparently it is lost in the mail. Amazon says it was shipped on July 27, USPS website says they are "awaiting package". However, when I called Amazon to get an update - two days in a row - they put me on hold, came back and said they contacted USPS and was told that the website is wrong...it will be delivered "tomorrow". Two "tomorrows" have gone by and I still don't have my cooler. I'll be calling both Amazon and the USPS...tomorrow.

 

[Jadog]

So I wanted to update you guys on the status of my ATF cooler install. I finally got the bumper off. Even after two days of letting the PB Blaster soak into the rusted bolts on the underside of the bumper, they still twisted through in every place. I even used a needle nose plyers on several but they were rusted together too firmly. So basically, the metal clip just spun with the bolt and ended up making a hole at the connection point. Seems like an extremely poor design in my opinion and I'm unsure how that will impact the re-install of the bumper. But once the bumper was off, I was able to drill some holes on the plate in front of the AC condenser and mount the ATF cooler as shown in the PDF that DerbyDad provided. I bent the metal brackets as some others showed, and then bolted them to the frame in front of the condenser - then zip-tied the top of the cooler to the metal power steering line that runs in front of the AC condenser. I was then able to feed the rubber line from the ATF cooler around the side, tracking the same path as the power steering line (the metal line that is in front of the AC condenser terminates into a rubber hose the wraps around into the back). I'm confused as to why others showed they had to use a Dremel to cut a hole to get the line through the plastic molding. Maybe I'm missing something? See below image showing where I'm running the line from the ATF cooler.

But here's where I need clarification. I tested the ATF lines by starting my van and allowing it to run for a minute and then touching both lines to see which was warmer. I can confirm the cooler line is the S-shaped line with the plastic canister as Charlie stated. I'm guessing that plastic canister is actually the Magnifine filter? Anyway, what I want to confirm is that the S-shaped hose is the one that needs to be replaced with the hoses to and from my ATF cooler. From what I understand, the side of the hose furthest from the filter (shown in the image as 1.) is coming FROM the radiator and should flow into the top line of the ATF cooler. Then the hose coming from the bottom of the ATF cooler should connect to the filter (as shown from point 2. in the screenshot). This would entirely replace the S-shaped hose.

Assuming the above is true, I think I will have difficulty getting to the filter side of that S-hose from below. In the PDF that DerbyDad shared it talks about using a coupler to connect to the original return line. I assume that would mean I could connect it directly to the end of the S-hose which would allow me to not have to even touch the side by the filter. I suppose I could get to the filter side of the hose easier if I could remove the battery tray. However, the battery tray appears to have a lot of connected parts so I didn't take that path.

Thanks for the feedback and looking forward to hearing back your thoughts and correction if I'm doing this wrong.

 

[phattyduck]

I'm guessing that plastic canister is actually the Magnifine filter? Anyway, what I want to confirm is that the S-shaped hose is the one that needs to be replaced with the hoses to and from my ATF cooler. From what I understand, the side of the hose furthest from the filter (shown in the image as 1.) is coming FROM the radiator and should flow into the top line of the ATF cooler.

The plastic canister is the OEM trans filter. Magnefine is an aftermarket company and people often add one in the return line to the trans in addition to the OEM filter.

You have the desired flow direction on the cooler backwards. It is true that for engine coolant radiators that the inlet is the top and the outlet is the bottom - that is opposite of what you want for a trans cooler. Since fluid is pumped INTO the trans cooler and there is no way to otherwise remove bubbles (no radiator cap on the trans cooler) the outlet should be at the top to flush air out of the cooler.

Your hose routing should work well if you run the hose from the OEM radiator line around to the lower cooler inlet using the routing you show, then run the upper hose through the plastic radiator air duct to the OEM filter.

-Charlie

 

[Jadog]

Thanks for the clarification on the filter. Interesting thought about flushing air out by allowing the flow into the cooler through the bottom line. The TruCool manual shows that the flow to the ATF cooler should be going into the top and out the bottom. Various other users have stated the same (or so I thought). This is the first that I've read differently. Just wondering if maybe I've had it wrong in my mind all along.

Your hose routing should work well if you run the hose from the OEM radiator line around to the lower cooler inlet using the routing you show, then run the upper hose through the plastic radiator air duct to the OEM filter.

Will this require cutting to complete? Not sure I found where the "plastic radiator air duct" is located. Is that the black S-shaped plastic piece sticking out in the center of my first image?

 

[phattyduck]

Will this require cutting to complete? Not sure I found where the "plastic radiator air duct" is located. Is that the black S-shaped plastic piece sticking out in the center of my first image?

If you want to run the lines right next to the radiator (where the OEM cooler runs them), yes, there will be some cutting. See the attached instructions for the OEM cooler (starting on page 14 of the document). It also has clear diagrams of the air guide I am talking about (yes, it is the black plastic piece you mention).

Most of the aftermarket cooler instructions I have seen say you can install them in any orientation. Heck, there are a number of OEM installations with both inlet and outlet on the bottom (see american trucks). Side or top outlets will purge air the most/easiest though...

-Charlie

 

[driveguy1]

I had the same bolts twist off on my Accord when pulling off the lower valance for a timing belt change, alternator replacement, and few other things we were doing. I just got a stainless steel panhead machine screws, washers, and a nylon lock nuts to put back in its place... didn't care much as long as it held.. car had 245k on it at the time.Worked fine.

 

[Jadog]

Just a quick update. I was able to complete the install of the ATF cooler last evening and I’m relieved it’s over. I proceeded with Charlie's recommendations by connecting the top line to the filter side and the bottom line to the line running out of the radiator. I realized that there was no way for me to reach the clip on the S-hose connected to the filter side without removing the battery tray - which I opted not to do. So rather than removing that S-hose as the instructions suggest, I just connected this hose to a barbed coupler I bought for $3 and connected to the top line of the ATF cooler. I could have used the male and female barbed adapters included with the coolers to make my own coupler, but I figured that it could be one more point of failure and leak at some point in the future. I'll call it peace of mind. I wanted to take pictures as I went but it with transmission fluid on my hands while under the van, it just wasn't possible. Also, I found that it was pretty easy to over-tighten the hose clamps, so be careful with that part. You want them nice and snug but not enough that you start cutting into the rubber.

I've been watching it carefully but so far I haven't seen any leaks. I noticed that the cooler got warm pretty quick and then realized that the powering steering line - that runs across the AC condenser and directly behind my cooler - also gets pretty hot. I had my cooler zip-tied to this line and began wondering if the heat on the cooler was coming from the fluid or from the conductive heat on the metal steering line. So I took a short 1" piece of leftover rubber tubing and made a cut in it from top to bottom so I could slip it onto the power steering line and use it as an insulator between my cooler and the contact point of the line. After doing this, there was no noticeable difference in the temperature of the atf cooler and so I concluded that the heat is coming from the transmission fluid alone. So I may have over thought that a little, but I wanted to be sure.

If I could go back and do it again, I'd probably mount the cooler directly to the outside of the AC condenser at the upper driver's side corner. With mine mounted in the lower side, the metal bumper reinforcement beam that sits in front of the cooler blocks at least 5 inches of what would have otherwise been clean airflow. I believe it would have more airflow if mounted in the upper right. I'm guessing that it will be just fine though in either configuration. Tomorrow I plan to mount the draw-tight hitch and this project will hopefully come to a close. Thanks to all who helped!