Jeff, there is no break-in period for a transmission. It either works right or it doesn't.

Yours sounds like it needs to see the dealer.

 

I'm tellin you...Holy crap I thought the transmission fell out or a Rhino ran into the van the other day when we went out to dinner .....It was about 5 degrees....And BANG!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Altima does not do this at all.....Can;t be good for the tranny

Ours shifted BUTTERY SMOOTH with NO PERCEIVED EXCESSIVE NOISES...on a MINUS 20 DEGREE (Fahrenheit) MORNING....

And our Accord behaves in the same manner....

Wild Willy Must Flog the sh** outta that ODY???



:ahh:

 

Yeah..We are going to Daytona International Speedway today..In our minvan

 

Jeff, there is no break-in period for a transmission. It either works right or it doesn't.

Yours sounds like it needs to see the dealer.

Yeah, I'm going to have them take a look at it.

Thanks for the input!

-jeff

 

I started using Lubegard Red in both Ody's since October 2007. Positive results fairly quickly, as well. See this thread:

Lubegard users?

Forgot to mention that the reverse engagement clunk is much-diminished since adding the Lubegard to the ATF.

Regards, OF

 

I have same problem on my 2000 Honda Odyssey with 164K miles with the clunk noise.

The transmission was rebuilt 18 months ago (June 2011) at 141K miles. The motor mounts were replaced when transmission was replaced.

the "clunk" noise appeared in Nov 2011 when cold in the morning and I change gear from PARK to REVERSE. The "clunk" does not happen when I put it back on PARK and try again and it does not happen during warm weather. I live in Northern California with morning temperature in high 30sF / low 40F during winter time.

if I warm up the car for 3-4 minutes in the morning. No clunk sound when shifting from PARK to REVERSE. The key is to make sure the RPM drops below 1000.

Now, in Nov 2012, the clunk noise appeared again since it's almost winter.

Brought the car to the shop where the tranny was rebuilt last year. The mechanic called and said they replaced the 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] gear oil pressure switch because the car had this code even the Check Engine Light was not on. However, the noise is still there and he said it does not harm the transmission. I have been driving the car for one year since I first heard the clunk noise and still no other problems so far (fingers crossed) ...

I have to admit that Honda & Acura transmissions are JUNK. 2 weeks ago, I replaced the tranny on my Acura 2001 TL which has 156K miles. Acura & Honda = JUNK Transmission

 

Hi
My trani on 2002 ODYSSEY was doing the some in cold mornings. I found that if the HIGH RPM in choke cycle on cold engine was responsible for this, and I added by micro switch, small resistor in value 1100 OHMS parallel to the ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR. So when the cold engine was on HIGH RPM, before shift to reverse I used the switch to switch from CHOKE to CHOKE OFF by holding the switch ON by 2 seconds. The RPM went from around 1150 to bellow 900 RPM. at this moment I was able to easy, with no any clunking noises shift from P to R. The switch was operated only by 2 sec, and was open up to next cold start. I was using this modification for around 1 year with no any issue.
NOW I FOUND PROBLEM WITH ENGINE BACK MOUNT. After replaced the mount, the problem completely is gone so I just removed my previous modification. Sorry for my English..... Jan T.

 

It is ususally the engine mounts when the reverse klunk hits ! I had a 91 Mazda 626 that di the same thing when shifting into reverse the motor mounts crack and that causes the klunk. It seems to me this happens mostly on Japanese made vehicles as opposed to US vehicles.

 

When I switched to Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF, most of that cold weather, first start-of-the-day clunk I had shifting from P to R went away. Adding Lubegard Red did the rest, noticeably quickly, too.

Still get the clunk once in a great, great while, but it hasn't been bad at all, compared to the way it was before I switched to synthetic ATF (Valvoline MaxLife is synthetic) and started using Lubegard.

OF

 

I have 03 ODYSSEY with 135k mile on it.
Last year, it gave me a check engine light with occasion blinking D and TCS light.
I changed the front O2 senor, and all the problem went away.

But, now my trani is having the reverse clunk in the cold morning. (I have not try the shift to D first method yet)
My trani has been leaking very slowly for past couple of years and I have been putting a quart of Valvoline brand ATF oil every 5 to 6 month or so.
(I brought the Van to shop and they could not find the where it was leaking from unless take the whole trani out)

Anyway, I keep adding ATF since and someone told me DO NOT use any other brand than HONDA genuine ATF oil.
I just ordered whole box of Honda DW1 and I will change over this weekend.
I hope this will solve cluck (and slow leak)

We will see.

Also, any of you used ATP AT-205 to stop the trani leak??

 

How many quarts of trans fluid might one expect to be actually drained and refilled with fresh fluid when taken to repair shop? I got a recent estimate for $169 for flush and fill? Could someone here advise me as to be best cost effective way to get my trans as clean as possible and replace with fresh fluid. I can not afford to replace the trans should it fail.

 

Did you ever call that shop to see what they do for a 'flush'? It can mean very different things.
Each single drain and fill is approx 3.5 qts.
Buffalo4

 

About 3.5 quarts of ATF will drain out. $169 for a drain and fill is a high price, considering it's an easier job than changing the engine oil and filter. (If that price is for multiple drain & fill's, that's another story. Also, Honda does not recommend flushing this transmission.)

Shop around some more, including the dealer. In my area, their prices for routine service are very competitive, although their turnaround is often slower.

Dave

 

We just purchased a CPO 2015 Odyssey Touring Elite with 15k miles on it. In the week we've had it, there have been 3 occasions when shifting from Parking to R that there has been a loud thump from the transmission. I've seen this happen before in other cars when you are on a hill and don't use your parking break correctly. It will sit on the pin and thump when you shift out of P. These 3 cases I was on a flat surface and used my parking break.

 

Try shifting to N before starting the engine, then shift to R from there, and see if the noise changes. The ATF takes a slightly different path between P and N. And of course the transmission park lock is disengaged in N.

If you notice a change (i.e. no more thump), that would be valuable diagnostic info should you take it back for service.

Dave

 

Back 'er in?

2003 Odyssey, 202,400 miles, original tranny, one engine mount replaced.

I also hear "clunk" shifting into reverse, when engine is cold. Don't hear it nearly as much in warmer months.

Added lubeguard, didn't make much of a difference. Warming vehicle for awhile helps a bit.

Not to be smart-a$$ but ... best solution for me was to back into parking spot/garage. Rarely shift into reverse when cold (or warm), now.

 

Lubegard Red didn't make any difference in my clunk into R when the engine is cold during freezing temps. I noticed no difference in anything after adding it with my last drain and fill of the AT. I also now wait until the rpm drops down closer to normal before shifting into reverse whenever I can.
Still, I purchased several bottles of Lubegard Red and will continue using it anyways.
I will have to look at my engine mounts to see how they are doing. I now have close to 180K miles on the original tranny.
But, I purchased it with around 125K miles on it and it was using Z-1 and was used to pull a small trailer by the owner's college age daughter.
I did 4 drain and fills with DW-1 (bought a case online shortly after purchasing the Ody) over a period of months and noticed no difference in the shifting, etc.
I will most likely use the Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc from now on. Below is part of what Valvoline sent me regarding their MaxLife ATF.

"THOMAS R. SMITH
Vice President, Lubricant Technology
July 23, 2015"

"Valvoline recommends MaxLife ATF in a broad range of transmissions. The list below is just a sample of
applications where Valvoline supports the use of MaxLife ATF. Valvoline has conducted in-house testing,
independent lab testing, and field-testing to support MaxLife ATF performance in these transmissions; however,
it is important to note that the respective vehicle manufacturers have neither evaluated nor approved MaxLife
ATF in these applications.
•! Allison TES 389, C-4
•! Audi/VW G-055-025-A2, G-052-162-A1/A2,
G-052-990-A2, G-055-005-A2,
G-055-162-A6, G-055-540-A2, G-060-162-A2
•! BMW LT71141, LA2634, M-1375.4, ATF 3.0
•! Chrysler Diamond SP-III, NAG-1, 3403 M115
•! Ford MERCON® *(in California use Valvoline
Dex/Merc)
•! Ford MERCON® V, FNR5, XT-9-AMMF5,
*(in California use Valvoline MERCON V)
•! Ford MERCON® SP *(not in California)
•! MERCON® LV
•! GM 9986195
•! GM DEXRON® II, III and VI
•! GM Autotrak II
•! Honda/Acura ATF-Z1, DW1 (except in CVTs)
•! Hyundai SP-II, SP-III, SP-IV, SPH-IV,
SP4-M, SP-IV-RR
•! JWS 3309
•! JASO 1A
•! KIA SP-II and SP-III Fluids, Red 1
•! Mazda M-V, FZ
•! Mercedes Benz MB236.1, MB236.6, MB236.7,
MB236.9, MB236.10, MB236.12, MB 236.14,
MB 236.15
•! Mercedes Benz NAG-1
•! MOPAR AS68RC ATF
•! Miscellaneous OEMs – M1375.4, M1375.6,
L12108, LT 71141, ETL-7045E, ETL-8072B,
3403 M115, N402, AW-1
•! Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II, SP-III, ATF-J3, Dia
Queen ATF-PA
•! Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K, Matic-S,
Matic W
•! Saab 93 165 147
•! Subaru ATF
•! Subaru ATF-HP
•! Toyota / Lexus Type T, T-III and T-IV
•! Toyota WS
•! Volvo 1161521 and 1161540, and STD 1273.41
•! VW TL52162, LT71141
•! ZF TE-ML-14B, 16L, 17C
Valvoline stands behind all of its products, including MaxLife ATF. Use of MaxLife ATF in transmissions where
recommended by Valvoline WILL NOT void the vehicle’s warranty. Vehicle manufacturers are restricted by
federal law from including the requirement of the use of a specific brand or trade name of product or service as a
condition of their warranty."

Buffalo4

 

Mine does make a small clunk going into reverse first thing in the morning. It's in a heated garage. It won't do it if I have driven it for a bit then park outside for 3 or 4 hrs in below freezing weather. I'm going to try the D first thing and see what happens

 

Well, the clunk came back a couple times, but only in our 2003 EX. I'm using AmSOil ATF and Lubegard Red, too.

As an experiment, during freezing days, before final shutdown after a drive, I've put it into reverse, left it there, then turned off the engine. Next, shifted to Park, and completely switched off. I don't know what compelled me to try that, but for some strange reason, it's been working.

Right now we're above freezing during the daytime. If we get a sub-freezing night, I'll try this again and update this thread.

This really is annoying...I thought we had this beat in both of the vans (the 2002 EX is still okay, no clunk).

OF

 

Can't believe I haven't seen this thread before. I'll have to try these methods out. Lately I've just been backing it into it's spot in the driveway so I can just shift to drive when I'm ready to take off.

 

You can also just quickly bypass R and go into D for a few seconds to see if that helps. Then shift into R.
I might have to try Odyfamily's trick, since the weather here is in the 20's or less each morning and I park it outside.
If it is really cold, I usually let it get down to a lower idle, about 800 rpm before I shift out of Park, usually while scraping off the frost or snow.
Buffalo4

 

Has anyone checked the axles for this? I have an '03 Odyssey and when I have the front of the car on jack stands and I rotate the driver side wheel back and forth I get a pretty loud clicking and there's a quite a bit of play somewhere. It sounds like the clicking is coming from the axle but I can't tell for sure if it's the axle or the tranny. With how loud it is just turning the tire back and forth I'm pretty sure it's where the loud clunk is coming from when the engine is at fast idle on cold days.

 

The play you are feeling when rotating the wheel by hand could very well be coming from normal gear lash in the differential.

Dave

 

Maybe. It clunks pretty loud when turning the tire back and forth on the driver side, it does no such thing when doing the same thing on the passenger side. I'll bet whatever it is it's where the clunk shifting into reverse with the engine is at high idle is coming from.