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Replacing the factory speakers

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#21 · (Edited)
The reapplication of the moisture barrier cannot be done with the same oem bonding agent. It is not available anywhere that I could find. Not even through Honda parts counters and the parts guys got nowhere with their corporate support.

What you have to do is finish all work. ALL WORK Once you are sure you’re ready to close up the door, get a can of ether based engine starting fluid spray. Lightly wet the area around the metal door opening with it and clean all residue of oils for a good bonding surface. Next. Get your moisture barrier inserts and hope you didn’t get any oils or grease on the adhesive bead. With light pressure on the spray nozzle lightly wet the bonding bead around the insert. The adhesive will reactivate in about 20 seconds. Place the insert over the opening exactly where the rolled edge pops into the opening. Speeds with your fingers over the bead of adhesive track. I used a golf ball and it bonded better than it was at the factory. There was a lot of air leakage prior to this door speaker upgrade.

As for noise attenuation materials. I use only 1/2” thick neoprene sheeting foam. I also use dedicated 3M foam bonding spray for guaranteed tight adhesion and sealing out moisture. Heat and water is not an issue.

CompMan

I’d really like to get down in the weeds detailed info on how you bring warmth and body to the Odyssey sound system without losing any OEM head unit functionality. I have experienced the same lack of mid base in my upgrades. My Infinity Kappa upgrades sound great except they have no midbase. Athens subwoofer is amazing with the upgrades I performed on the OEM enclosure, “see my other posts for details”.

I think we all would benefit from what you’ve found if the OEM controls and conveniences are preserved.

Thanks
 
#22 ·
nmfrankl said:
Impressive!

What are your thoughts on the setup I am considering (linked in first post)? Another poster that swapped out his factory speakers mentioned these foam sound dampeners...worth trying? My only worry is the window not being able to function if those foam dampeners are used...but I haven't seen behind the door panel yet.

EDIT: I am hoping the speakers I am eyeing swap in with little modification needed. Another poster reported using the Pioneer sub I have linked above with no issues but you mentioned not being able to find one that worked.
Click to expand...
Thank you!

I'm not a fan of so called "SQ" systems, they need precise installation, hardware, wiring etc. At least not anymore.

My first system looked like this:
1. Front doors - Focal Integration ISS 165
2. Rear doors - Focal Integration ISC 165
3. Kilmat front entire doors
4. Sound absorbing foam on front door panels
5. Metra 72-7800 speaker wiring adapters
6. Stock sub, no mods
7. Ai HSB524 speaker adapters
8. Focal tweeters


Results was better than stock, obviously, but not enough, good pair of speaker always need good amplifier or sound processor. Midbass speakers are good if you listen quality music and they usually have too much bass, subwoofer is what you need to bass, not 6.5 inch speakers in your doors, but again, this is just my taste. Stock systems are very limited and only exist to make some sort of noise to satisfy average costumers

My second attempt looks like this:
1. Front doors - Skar Audio NPX 65 Neodymium loud speakers
2. Rear doors - Skar Audio NPX 65 Neodymium loud speakers
3. Front doors have same sound deadening treatment
4. Added road kill foam speaker enhancement kit
5. Metra 72-7800 speaker wiring adapters
7. Ai HSB524 speaker adapters
8. Added polyfil in sub box
9. Full sound deadening of the sub box and surrounding
10. Stock tweeters

Much better, even better than first system. I can hear subwoofer, door speakers are loud and clear, no bass going to front and rear doors, so I can go louder. Midrange, so called pro loud speakers, are the way to go, they have very low sensitive and due to specifics of midrange loud speakers these can go louder with stock amplifier.



For speaker enhancement foam dampeners, I used this kit and even used left overs for my sub. I do hear a big difference since sound is now pointed right outside the door panel, not inside. with the kit I used there is no issues with window mechanism since window doesn't go all the way down, it stops right before the speaker so you can use thick dampeners, I was worried too, but it has enough clearance.

Ts-SW2002D2 sub is actually what I'm thinking to replace my OEM now, I tried different shallow mount speakers - Skar Audio, Hertz, Alpine... but they all needed box modifications, sounds like that Pioneer might fit without any mods

I'm continuing sound deadening my van, I think I'm done with a system for now, it is loud and clear :)
Hopefully it helps.
 
#23 ·
CompMan86 said:
  1. Focal component mid bass? Is that 3 speakers - component plus mid bass plus mid range? Which model did you try?
  2. The tweeters on the infinity REF-6530cx are a huge upgrade over the stock tweeters... strongly recommend swapping out the tweeters too.
  3. I see you put sound deadening all over the inside of the door skin by removing the plastic inserts glued to the door frame (or whatever the middle metal frame thing that's between the outer skin and the inside trim panel is called). How did you re-adhere the plastic inserts to keep the moisture out?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
1. Focal Integration ISS 165, midbass kit - 6.5 inch midbass, tweeter
2. I replaced stock with Focal, but they were meh, not as bright as stock
3. you can use automotive glue or any sort of adhesive, even double sided tape. I simply heat up the stock glue and put it back, also applied few pieces of sound deadening on top, ideally you remove it and do the whole door with a layer of sound deadening
This is what I did (keep in mind I'm not done yet, once I get more stuff I'll continue)
 

Attachments

#24 ·
I just got my Kicker Key 200.4 amp installed! The installer thought the space under the passenger seat was a bit tight and we agreed to put it in the cargo area cubby. It's a little more visible than I'd like... maybe if I wrap some conduit around the wires it won't look like the car's guts are hanging out :)

It sounds great! Largely fixed the mid bass issue and added depth/warmth/whatever you call it to the full range. I've got some good punch now from the door speakers, and it's making me realize just how weak the unmodded OEM sub is :) :-(

This amp accepts line level or speaker level inputs. He took the outputs from the factory amp and fed them into the Kicker amp, then connected the outputs from the Kicker to the 4 channels' wires. Making the connection in the cargo area is simplest because all of the channels' wires are accessible there - otherwise you have to intercept them elsewhere. No loss of OEM functionality because the head unit is none the wiser - it's still driving the factory amp, the factory amp is just sending current to another amp instead of directly to the speakers.

The Kicker auto DSP works quite well - time delay and 40(?) band equalizer that it calibrates using a pink noise track and a bunch of beeps and bloops etc. After it's done and its internal EQ is set, I can still adjust the head unit's EQ if I want a little more or less of anything.

The only downside is that if I turn the amp's gain up from 0 even a little, I start hearing a hiss/noise, even when the volume on the head unit is turned all the way down. The installer asserted that the hiss was coming from upstream, and it just wasn't audible before and the amp is boosting it. I think this is a risk of taking speaker level inputs. However, if I keep the gain knobs at 0, it has PLENTY of volume... I'll probably never put the head unit above 15 or 20 (of its max=30), and the hiss is basically inaudible unless I put my ear right up next to the tweeter. So I'm satisfied.

I've attached all the relevant wiring diagrams including the engine compartment views where you can see holes in the firewall to run the power wire. I'm not sure which hole he used, I think he went in through the passenger foot well and cut over, but I haven't looked closely.

156069
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #25 ·
CompMan86 said:
I just got my Kicker Key 200.4 amp installed! The installer thought the space under the passenger seat was a bit tight and we agreed to put it in the cargo area cubby. It's a little more visible than I'd like... maybe if I wrap some conduit around the wires it won't look like the car's guts are hanging out :)

It sounds great! Largely fixed the mid bass issue and added depth/warmth/whatever you call it to the full range. I've got some good punch now from the door speakers, and it's making me realize just how weak the unmodded OEM sub is :) :-(

This amp accepts line level or speaker level inputs. He took the outputs from the factory amp and fed them into the Kicker amp, then connected the outputs from the Kicker to the 4 channels' wires. Making the connection in the cargo area is simplest because all of the channels' wires are accessible there - otherwise you have to intercept them elsewhere. No loss of OEM functionality because the head unit is none the wiser - it's still driving the factory amp, the factory amp is just sending current to another amp instead of directly to the speakers.

The Kicker auto DSP works quite well - time delay and 40(?) band equalizer that it calibrates using a pink noise track and a bunch of beeps and bloops etc. After it's done and its internal EQ is set, I can still adjust the head unit's EQ if I want a little more or less of anything.

The only downside is that if I turn the amp's gain up from 0 even a little, I start hearing a hiss/noise, even when the volume on the head unit is turned all the way down. The installer asserted that the hiss was coming from upstream, and it just wasn't audible before and the amp is boosting it. I think this is a risk of taking speaker level inputs. However, if I keep the gain knobs at 0, it has PLENTY of volume... I'll probably never put the head unit above 15 or 20 (of its max=30), and the hiss is basically inaudible unless I put my ear right up next to the tweeter. So I'm satisfied.

I've attached all the relevant wiring diagrams including the engine compartment views where you can see holes in the firewall to run the power wire. I'm not sure which hole he used, I think he went in through the passenger foot well and cut over, but I haven't looked closely.

View attachment 156069
Click to expand...
Looks good! Adding an amp to aftermarket speakers is always advisable...just not always easily done.

Some of the car audio companies make items that specifically fit certain vehicles...I would like to see Alpine or someone similar make an amp that fits in the factory location, maintains the existing tech in the van, and ups the power to the speakers so that aftermarket speakers can be installed.
 
#26 ·
nmfrankl said:
Looks good! Adding an amp to aftermarket speakers is always advisable...just not always easily done.

Some of the car audio companies make items that specifically fit certain vehicles...I would like to see Alpine or someone similar make an amp that fits in the factory location, maintains the existing tech in the van, and ups the power to the speakers so that aftermarket speakers can be installed.
Click to expand...
Taramps has tiny amplifier that could fit right there, probably half size of that Kicker pictured above, problem that there is no air movement, even stock amp gets hot
 
#27 ·
Also I wanted to keep access to the gain controls, switches, and calibration microphone port. Because I'm a fiddler and didn't trust the installer to tune it right the first time. As it turns out, 1 hour after I left he emailed me to tell me he forgot to set the headunit's EQ to flat before running calibration 🤦‍♂️
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
CompMan86 said:
I just got my Kicker Key 200.4 amp installed! The installer thought the space under the passenger seat was a bit tight and we agreed to put it in the cargo area cubby. It's a little more visible than I'd like... maybe if I wrap some conduit around the wires it won't look like the car's guts are hanging out :)

It sounds great! Largely fixed the mid bass issue and added depth/warmth/whatever you call it to the full range. I've got some good punch now from the door speakers, and it's making me realize just how weak the unmodded OEM sub is :) :-(

This amp accepts line level or speaker level inputs. He took the outputs from the factory amp and fed them into the Kicker amp, then connected the outputs from the Kicker to the 4 channels' wires. Making the connection in the cargo area is simplest because all of the channels' wires are accessible there - otherwise you have to intercept them elsewhere. No loss of OEM functionality because the head unit is none the wiser - it's still driving the factory amp, the factory amp is just sending current to another amp instead of directly to the speakers.

The Kicker auto DSP works quite well - time delay and 40(?) band equalizer that it calibrates using a pink noise track and a bunch of beeps and bloops etc. After it's done and its internal EQ is set, I can still adjust the head unit's EQ if I want a little more or less of anything.

The only downside is that if I turn the amp's gain up from 0 even a little, I start hearing a hiss/noise, even when the volume on the head unit is turned all the way down. The installer asserted that the hiss was coming from upstream, and it just wasn't audible before and the amp is boosting it. I think this is a risk of taking speaker level inputs. However, if I keep the gain knobs at 0, it has PLENTY of volume... I'll probably never put the head unit above 15 or 20 (of its max=30), and the hiss is basically inaudible unless I put my ear right up next to the tweeter. So I'm satisfied.

I've attached all the relevant wiring diagrams including the engine compartment views where you can see holes in the firewall to run the power wire. I'm not sure which hole he used, I think he went in through the passenger foot well and cut over, but I haven't looked closely.

View attachment 156069
Click to expand...
Any chance you know if it is possible to swap out the factory amp in the EX for the amp from the higher trim models that puts out more wattage? I wonder if they are the same size and the connections could be made easily...this would allow for more power to aftermarket speakers...
 
#29 ·
Hm I can't find the part online. Perhaps they don't sell it publicly, maybe to avoid people just swapping it out after buying a lower trim level? Though that unit is highly integrated with the rest of the car, I wouldn't be surprised if the connectors are different (more speakers, more sensors, etc). And I suspect for the money, you could get a much nicer aftermarket DSP amp.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
CompMan86 said:
I just got my Kicker Key 200.4 amp installed! The installer thought the space under the passenger seat was a bit tight and we agreed to put it in the cargo area cubby. It's a little more visible than I'd like... maybe if I wrap some conduit around the wires it won't look like the car's guts are hanging out :)

It sounds great! Largely fixed the mid bass issue and added depth/warmth/whatever you call it to the full range. I've got some good punch now from the door speakers, and it's making me realize just how weak the unmodded OEM sub is :) :-(

This amp accepts line level or speaker level inputs. He took the outputs from the factory amp and fed them into the Kicker amp, then connected the outputs from the Kicker to the 4 channels' wires. Making the connection in the cargo area is simplest because all of the channels' wires are accessible there - otherwise you have to intercept them elsewhere. No loss of OEM functionality because the head unit is none the wiser - it's still driving the factory amp, the factory amp is just sending current to another amp instead of directly to the speakers.

The Kicker auto DSP works quite well - time delay and 40(?) band equalizer that it calibrates using a pink noise track and a bunch of beeps and bloops etc. After it's done and its internal EQ is set, I can still adjust the head unit's EQ if I want a little more or less of anything.

The only downside is that if I turn the amp's gain up from 0 even a little, I start hearing a hiss/noise, even when the volume on the head unit is turned all the way down. The installer asserted that the hiss was coming from upstream, and it just wasn't audible before and the amp is boosting it. I think this is a risk of taking speaker level inputs. However, if I keep the gain knobs at 0, it has PLENTY of volume... I'll probably never put the head unit above 15 or 20 (of its max=30), and the hiss is basically inaudible unless I put my ear right up next to the tweeter. So I'm satisfied.

I've attached all the relevant wiring diagrams including the engine compartment views where you can see holes in the firewall to run the power wire. I'm not sure which hole he used, I think he went in through the passenger foot well and cut over, but I haven't looked closely.

View attachment 156069
Click to expand...
You have been rollin' with this for a bit...any new thoughts? Are you worried about Honda not honoring the warranty if you have issues with the van?
 
#32 ·
I'm liking it! Sounds much better than stock - super clear sound quality. Mid-bass and "warmth" are much better than without the amp. I have the gains turned all the way down, first because of the floor noise (I think because the amp's power wire is routed parallel to the speaker wires and input wires - you should avoid doing that), but also because even with gains set to +0, I rarely go above 17 or 18 (out of 30) on the volume as that's PLENTY loud - and I want granularity in the volume control.

I'm now wanting for more sub-bass, and have been exploring options for increasing the output/volume of the sub. @Triaque mentioned upgrading to a shallow-mount Pioneer sub and adding polyfill, but my (new) car audio installer (that installed the amp and is much more experienced/reputable) insists that any aftermarket sub on the factory amp will sound even weaker, because they're more power hungry.

Has anyone upgraded the stock sub in place, without adding an amp, and dramatically increased the subwoofer output? I've also heard @Triaque talk about polyfill, but from what I read online, the polyfill might help clarity but not volume? I just don't want to put another $200 in and find that now I need another amp, heh.

Thanks!
 
#33 ·
The polyfill does help with clarity. And effective volume does increase but not at any level that knocks your socks off. I wasn’t looking for that effect and Im very happy with how clean and rich the sound from the sub is. You must ensure even distributed polyfill and not have it dense. Takes a couple attempts at getting it right.
 
#35 ·
On the civicx forum we all have a similar sub setup to the odyssey and I put in an lc2i and rf punch amp. But I just swapped the input for right front speaker and sub (right plus left input to the lc2i) and it sounds pretty good. I think if I were to do it again I'd use the kicker key 500 though.

Sport Touring Factory Sub Upgrade DIY

The Acura TL that I had before my Civic had a 600w Type-R sub which sounded amazing. Even with "premium" audio in my 2019 Civic Sport Touring, it is not that great. The website has the wattage advertised as 75w but who knows if that is RMS or what. I followed this guide of a 2016 Hatchback...
www.civicx.com www.civicx.com
 
#37 ·
Hi All,
Here is some of my lock-down upgrades on my 2017 Honda odyssey.
1. Kill mat for sound detaining- works very good
2. Amp upgrade to factory sterio
3. Sub upgrade with new sub replacing the factory sub in the same spot
4.Added reflector LED lights
162428
162429
162430
162431
162432
162433
162434
162435
 
#38 ·
karthra said:
Hi All,
Here is some of my lock-down upgrades on my 2017 Honda odyssey.
1. Kill mat for sound detaining- works very good
2. Amp upgrade to factory sterio
3. Sub upgrade with new sub replacing the factory sub in the same spot
4.Added reflector LED lights
View attachment 162428 a View attachment 162430 View attachment 162431 View attachment 162432 View attachment 162433 View attachment 162434 View attachment 162435
Click to expand...
Also all the 4 speakers are upgraded to Crutchfield basic
 
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