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WIX 57356 oil filter - same number, but different

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19K views 63 replies 17 participants last post by  dvpatel  
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#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Recently purchased a WIX 57356 at O'Riley for an oil change on my '02 Odyssey. Also purchased two more at Rock Auto, since I was ordering some other stuff. I found it interesting that, even though they are the same number, they are somewhat different.

Any thoughts? Does it Matter? I guess I was curious, since I'm aware there is quite a problem with fake parts.

Moderator Edit - Updates and the cutout comparison located at: WIX 57356 oil filter - same number, but different

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#3 ·
Butch70 said:
Recently purchased a WIX 57356 at O'Riley for an oil change on my '02 Odyssey. Also purchased two more at Rock Auto, since I was ordering some other stuff. I found it interesting that, even though they are the same number, they are somewhat different.

Any thoughts? Does it Matter? I guess I was curious, since I'm aware there is quite a problem with fake parts.

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You can answer your own question by taking them apart after you use them. You will find that the quantity and quality of the materials are cheaper. The wix company could have had a Chinese company give them a bid of $xxx per unit and it was cheaper than their other sources. Naturally they would like the profit. The requested specs may not have been maintained. So you get what you paid for. Sound to good to be true, probably is not.
 
#14 ·
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#7 ·
Although I have not purchased extensively from Rock Auto, the stuff I've ordered - headlamp bulbs and wiper blades, for example - have looked like the item and packaging I would buy locally. So, I was just surprised that was not the case with the Wix filters.

I have watched many YouTube videos on oil filters - enough to make my head spin.

So, is the consensus opinion here these filters should be returned or okay to use? If I use them, I will open up the used ones and do a comparison. We do have '02 and '04 vans, but that will still take some months to happen.
 
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#10 ·
If I were counterfeiting a part that says "Made in USA", I would not change that to "Made in China" on the ripoffs. Perhaps "Made in Taiwan", or "Made in Japan", but Not "China".

I expect "name" companies to have products manufactured to their specs, regardless of where they are made. With lower labor and environmental costs in China, I believe they can cut costs while maintaining quality. If they choose to do so. Of course, they could go all out for low price, quality be damned.

For me, it boils down to: Do you trust Wix?
 
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#20 ·
I am quite aware the thoughts and advice on brands of oil and oil filters are varied. So, at some risk, I'll offer this thought: I lean toward the idea that regular oil changes may be just as or more important than the particular brand of oil or filter. The best quality oil or filter is not a substitute for regular, consistent maintenance.

I strive to change the oil in my Odysseys every 3,500 - 4,000 miles. If we have driven a lot of highway miles, it'll go a little longer. That's a carry-over from the days of our '72 VW Squareback.
 
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#21 ·
+1 for the Wix is junk column. Bought a 6 pack from Rock Auto a few years ago based on many users in this forum gushing over them. I always install filters to spec - gasket contact + 3/4 turn by hand. Every single one of the Wix filters crumpled when I tried removing them. Used several different wrenches over the course of the 6 - band type, strap type, clamp type, cup type, etc.. Without exception either the wrench crushed them or the twisting torque caused them to buckle. Worst set of filters I've ever purchased.

I had been using Honda OEM or the Mobile 1 filters. Mobile 1 were available at the local WalMart, but alas, mine quit carrying them.
 
#25 ·
Another up vote for Walmart’s “best,” either Fram or Mobil One. Don’t cheap out on the filter. There’s a lot to be said for regular 3-4K mile oil and filter changes. I end up buying a “socket” style filter wrench for every size filter. The “universal” adjustable strap style wrenches are useless. Either they slip or have interference problems.

I now do a Drain and Fill for all my fluids at the same time, every 3-4K mile, all with Walmart’s “best” — engine oil, ATF, and 50/50 coolant. I even do the Power Steering reservoir with Honda PS fluid.
 
#30 · (Edited)
isnt that the truth... brand reputation gets built up then they play the economies of scale game play with the numbers, and the customer shafting begins.

so many brands I had faith in over the years are now total shite.

since the quality of many aftermarket parts is in the dumpster, hoping your old vehicle will die before the part fails, I just look for the best lifetime replacement warranty and dont worry too much if I have to do the (DIY) labour twice or three times!
OEM isnt always better anymore either.

not applicable for an oil filter, but you get what i'm saying.
 
#29 ·
Back to the topic ... WIX, same numbers, but different ... this type of "part numbers engineering" is a bit foreign to me.

This type of deal would have me second-guessing myself, on the order of "Is this a good purchase?" I've done that to myself enough with oil filters, and finally got to the point where I'm just using NOS Mobil M1-207 filters on my Acura & Odyssey (they're V6's), and AmSOil Ea15k13 and Ea15k20 on everything else.

Once I run out of Mobil 1 filters, I'll switch to AmSOil Ea15k20 for the Odyssey and Acura to keep my own "personal vehicle maintenance supply chain" as simple as possible.

OF
 
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#39 ·
Filtech makes all sorts of filters (cabin, oil, transmission, etc.). They make the A01 filter.

Honeywell owned Fram until 2011. The "Honda by Fram" OEM filter is the A02.

Like any company that wants to stay in business, I'm sure Fram improved their product line, notably the low-cost offerings.

OF
 
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#40 ·
I’m prolly the outlier here since I always felt that regular 3K oil changes were more important than super fine filtration. The properties of oil can seriously deteriorate even when well filtered.
 
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#41 ·
Pixburd54 said:
I’m prolly the outlier here since I always felt that regular 3K oil changes were more important than super fine filtration.
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You are. Whether you change oil at 3k (not needed these days) or once every year with oil engineered for that duration of operation, better filtration is always a benefit.

GeorgeCLS on the Tundra forums was a tribologist who took care of several large fleets, managing machinery and vehicle lubrication. He used his Tundra as a test-bed, and found that well before even 1,500 miles had elapsed, his engine had generated an entire spectrum of wear particles and combustion by-product particles all requiring filtration.

He performed both VOA and UOA using different filters (OEM Toyota and AmSOil EaO).

In short, nobody benefits from a 3,000-mile OCI when using a low-buck cellulose media filter.

OF
 
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#42 ·
But is the benefit one that makes a meaningful difference in practical application?

Just picking numbers out of the air to illustrate my point: If a great filter will help my crank and cam bearings last for at least 500k miles, but a merely passable filter only gets me to 300k, my '02 with 150k is gonna' be crushed due to rust long before either mark is reached.

Not arguing against your point, looking for more detailed and relevant stats.
 
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#43 ·
It's not so much the crank and cam bearings ... though, they benefit...it's all the other items that receive an unpressurized lubrication source. You want the front and rear crank main seals to last. Same for the camshaft seals just inboard of the pulleys. They need the cleanest oil you can provide to prevent seal surface degradation.

They're not as vital major mechanical items, but man, it sure is convenient not to have the van spotting all over the garage floor and driveway. I hate shaft seal leaks, as they usually require removing a lot of stuff to replace them. If I can prevent this from happening over a 250,000-mile ownership experience, I win.

Another plus: if I can get the rings and cylinders to provide great sealing throughout the life of the van, that's another plus. Both of our vans consumed around 20-to-24 ounces of oil over a 10,000-mile OCI at the 200,000-mile point in their lives.

Regarding the rest of the vehicle going to the dogs before the engine ... I agree. Here's some stuff from glen e of the Driveaccord.net forums, that in a roundabout way, backs up what you're saying, @Ted (I added paragraph breaks):
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...You’re probably not gonna like this answer, but I believe that because we are all hobbyists here, we “overly maintain” the car. ​
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In the last 20 years, engines and oils are not your fathers products. Metallurgy is better, oils are better, and tolerances in the engine are far closer in the build quality department. I spent my entire life in the car business, on the manufacturer side calling on dealers as a district mgr rep for Porsche ,BMW ,Kawasaki and American Honda. In that time , I looked at thousands of repair orders administrating warranty, and I am amazed at some of the things I saw. ​
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I saw engines that never saw ANY maintenance whatsoever, literally never had their hoods opened (leases), and still the engine was perfectly within spec. Some, the oil had turned to jelly, and they were still fine! I think thousands of gallons of good oil go to waste it every year with people doing 3000 to 5000 mile oil changes. Oils can go a lot longer than that and you still have a perfectly fine engine. ​
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There is something about changing your oil that makes you feel good, I have felt it myself. But you are doing it to make yourself feel better, the engine could’ve gone a lot longer without the change. That’s why , unless you are in some massively dust filled environment, I recommend changing it once a year regardless of the mileage, The oil is still fine at a year, but you are eliminating the particulates in the oil.​

OF
 
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#44 ·
Interesting point, but if the dirt can infiltrate past the exterior of the seal, isn't that happing with external dust & grit? Changing the RMBOS is certainly a costly PITA, but isn't it lubed by splash that hasn't necessarily been filtered? The cam seals are splash, but the oil's been recently filtered to be up in the head.

Does anyone know anyone who follows the maint schedule recommendation of changing the oil filter on alternate oil changes? Meaning up to two years on a filter!
 
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#45 ·
You make a good point. I've changed a number of these seals, and they have two flanges (lips). The outside lip is simply a dust shield of sorts (exterior), the other has a spring wrapped around it to provide tension against a polished portion of the shaft (camshaft, crankshaft, transfer case tailpiece shaft, etc.) that receives splash lubrication.

Here's a pic, "inside" facing up.

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It's a splash system on the inside, but that doesn't mean the seal isn't under some sort of pressure. It is, courtesy of that spring. If you can do anything to slow down that inside flange (lip) erosion, it lasts much, much longer.

Filtering particles larger than those that can remain hydrodynamic (live within the lube film without making contact with sliding surfaces) is the goal.

I have no idea what micron size of filtration makes that happen.

So, on that note, to try and meet that goal without knowing the required fineness of filtration required, I just hedge my bets and use AmSOil engineered synthetic media filters for our Civics and Accords, and double-oversized Mobil 1 synthetic blend media filters on our oldest sets of wheels (V6 Acura and the Odyssey).

I was changing oil at 7,500-mile intervals ... well, trying to. So often, "life got in the way" of getting this done one time, and it seemed I was always changing oil at 10,000 mile intervals, or greater.

This actually gets back to the original topic of this thread....

....I started observing the same things @Butch70 observed with oil filter numbers, and points of manufacture. It just made me think that I would have to do some research, and make sure I got the Wix filter I wanted of the right type, in this case, the Wix 51626 for my two oldest cars.

Decided it was just easier to buy a bunch of NOS Mobil M1-207 filters during a Rock Auto closeout and be done with it, rather than deal with driving from one auto parts store to another trying to find a filter that looked like the ones I'd purchased before.

Same for the other cars ... I just buy AmSOil filters in bulk (Ea15K13 fits the rest of our cars), stock up, use five of them each year until I run out and have to get more.

Ted said:
Does anyone know anyone who follows the maint schedule recommendation of changing the oil filter on alternate oil changes? Meaning up to two years on a filter!
Click to expand...
Nope, and definitely not me! As long as I'm underneath a car, once a year, to drain the oil, I change that filter. Am I overdoing it? Possibly, but again, got no idea if it's overkill or not.


OF
 
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#47 ·
I made the original post May 2022: WIX 57356 oil filter - same number, but different

Enough time has finally elapsed that I was able to open the filters and make a comparison, along with two other filters.

Images - top-to-bottom - WIX China; WIX USA, Carquest, Fram.

WIX China does indeed appear to be the cheapest of the bunch. The WIX USA and Carquest appear to be exactly the same. The Fram appears to have a similarly-sized fileted media.

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#52 ·
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#50 ·
Any tests confirm that it is better than a Fram Ultra, Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc or is that just an opinion?
And better in what way? Filtering particles, flow rate, dirt capacity, relief valve , container resistance to road damage etc?
Are you talking about the Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil filter or?
Thanks,
Buffalo4
PS: Wonder how long it will take Dave Patel to shut this thread down? :) 🤓 😱😇😇
PPS: I hope all have an enjoyable Father's Day Weekend!! 😁😁

BTW: Nice post, Butch70!!!👍
 
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