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Man, those samples of ATF between drains look more and more red with each successive drain & refill. That's the goal.

Doing it my self and using synthetic I can still do both for less than a shop would charge for just synthetic oil.
True that. Bandit approves, much to the consternation of Sheriff Buford T. Justice (who could not keep up because he does not perform ATF maintenance like he should):

Image


:D

OF
 
Yup, LOVE amsoil ATF in my Hondas... i drain/fill the ATF religiously.
Although, once youve done 3x with amsoil you "probably" dont need to actually change it out for another 200,000 miles lol. People should know there is a MONUMENTAL difference between a "real" synthetic {pao (grp4)/ester(grp5)} like amsoil/redline and "pretend" dino based, group 3 like maxlife or other walmart oils.
 
Yes, drive until the engine is hot and then some to fully warm the transmission, park level, engine running, then check the fluid level.

Fluid level should definitely not be above the upper dot on the older 4- and 5-speed transmissions. An overfull transmission can purge its fluid through the vent if it becomes very hot (not hard to do on these models).

I haven't seen many reports on this problem with newer models, but still, better to stay within the limits defined by the Honda engineers.

Dave
 
I am going to attempt to do my first ATF D/F. Help me with some questions.
1. Do I have to do the D/F on a level ground or can I do it with the van on the ramp?
2. How long after the van is turned off should I do it? Does the fluid need time to drain back in the sump?
3. What crush washer should I buy for replacement ? Is it an 18mm washer or a 20mm washer?

I will do 3 D/F in the span of 3 weeks, it hasn't had a ATF D/F yet. It's at 42K miles.
 
I am going to attempt to do my first ATF D/F. Help me with some questions.
1. Do I have to do the D/F on a level ground or can I do it with the van on the ramp?
2. How long after the van is turned off should I do it? Does the fluid need time to drain back in the sump?
3. What crush washer should I buy for replacement ? Is it an 18mm washer or a 20mm washer?

I will do 3 D/F in the span of 3 weeks, it hasn't had a ATF D/F yet. It's at 42K miles.
1. It should be level when checking the fluid level after re-filling. But for draining, it does not matter much. If you look to see where the drain plug is, and orient your car so it is sloping toward that, a little more will come out. I park angled in a slightly sloping driveway to achieve this. So I'd recommend to do this if it is easy, and not worry about it if it is not. No jacking or ramps needed, although many find it more convenient to jack/ramp it.

2. You want the fluid hot so it flows easily - it will stay hot for a long time. But you also want any particles to be up and suspended in the fluid so they drain out, rather than having settled to some local minimum. So I try to drain quickly after I stop driving it.

3. I just buy the Honda ones, so I don't know 18 vs 20mm. But I do know that I don't actually use them, even though I've got them. I just re-use the one that's on there and have never had a problem. Why? Convenience, reducing waste, on-going science experiment to see if it ever leaks with this method.

(4) The idea of separating multiple D/F's is good, if you do need to do multiple. I never have. 42k miles is pretty low. Back in the second millennium when Honda used to publish an actual maintenance schedule rather than program a computer that would adapt based on how much $$ you've still got in your wallet, the spec for the '99 Odyssey was: first change (single D/F) at 45k miles, then every 30k miles after that. The first interval is higher since ALL the fluid is new at the beginning of that interval. However, that spec was written before they realized how fragile those AT's were. I currently do single D/F's at 10k mile intervals on my '99 and '11.
 
Getting the level right when refilling can be tedious.

Here's how to simplify the refill process:
- Check that the level is right before draining.
- Measure what drains out.
- Refill that same amount.

Dave
 
Thanks Dave and Oldskewel. That makes it easy for me by using the ramps, this is my first time, so I will see if I can squeeze under without the ramp for the next time.

I bought a long funnel just right for this job.

I bought the Honda ATF at the dealership. it was $9/qt. I got 5 just in case, because some people have had to put it more than 4 qts. I checked the level on the dipstick and it was at the top mark when hot and the fluid look pink and not brown, which is a good sign that I didn't delay this by a lot.

I also got the crush washer from the dealer, it was the 18mm one, that little ring of aluminum was $5 at the dealership. :rollingeyes:
 
I do not know what the actual torque spec is. Personally, 'good and tight' seems to work pretty well - as long as it's not going to come loose it'll be fine. Just remember it's an aluminum case, so torquing too much may ruin your day - though that'd take some effort... But we aren't talking head bolts, cam bolts, or rod cap nuts here - precise torquing is not really required.
 
I just did this for the 2nd time on my 2015, just under 30k now. Used Amsoil and did replace the washer (apparently I'd ordered a pack a while back). A few observations:
- I cannot for the life of me figure how you're supposed to accurately read the dipstick. The directions are to turn the engine off and then check the level 60-90 seconds later. The bottom of the stick is just a splashy mess, the idea that the line will cleanly lie in that little 1/4" range doesn't seem likely.
- I got 3.5 quarts out, same as last time
- Slow and easy pour via a large funnel and short length of tubing through the dipstick hole is pretty easy.
- Can't fit a torque wrench under there without the car on a lift so I just did it good and tight. With a 3/8" wrench I figure that's safe given the 36 ft-lbs spec.

jeff
 
I was able to do my first fluid change, but it didn't go without a hitch. My major issue was splashy mess like greenjp and the process to read the dipstick and fill. I overfilled a little, but that will be drained in a week.
I too got around 3.5-3.6 qts.
I think the splashy mess was because of the funnel tube, its grooved for flexibility but accumulates fluid and drips everywhere. I wasn't able to use my torque wrench because I don't have a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GD2HYQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
No, there's no problem mixing different ATF's, provided the new fluid that you are using is certified by the manufacturer for use in Honda transmissions.

Dave
 
I've been running Amsoil ATF in my cars for over 12 years... only with great results. Honda, Lexus, GMC, BMW, etc.
I also D/F on my Hondas about 10-15k miles... which equates to about once every 2 years.

Smoother shifts and peace of mind with cleaner fluids, and knowing the fluid can tolerate more heat.
 
2016 owner here. I just have 5 k.
1. What are the other fluid choices aside OEM? I see Valvoline mentioned. But what exact Valvoline atf? I think there are a few.

2. If I do a drain and fill, will the "computer" know that I have done it and delay the transmission service minder? Or is it just dump and based on miles/time elapsed.
 
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