Pictures got posted 2x for some reason!!!
I suspect that my tool was not a good fit, and the bolt shouldn't be soooo soft. I plan to do hammer bang/DW-40/bang/DW40 before trying with a better tool. Thank you!

 

Any idea who tightened it last time? I suspect it was way, way, way, overtightened. There is a crush washer that should be used as well and since I don't own a torque wrench I do it by feel like I do the oil drain plug. Just snug, but not cranked down. I suppose another possibility is an aftermarket plug? How much history do you have on the van?

 

pkrface, I think you nailed down the problem here.

Note the "washer" that is folded over at the base of the plug. THAT is (was) the crush washer! It should be flat. Whoever last tightened that plug did so with enough force to smash the portion of the crush washer underneath the plug and turn the extruded part into a "dish," and the un-crushed portion originally outside the diameter of the plug face was pushed out and over to further form the "dish" at the edges.

Like pkrface said, that plug "was way, way, way, overtightened." (Had to quote it, as I can't describe it any better).

It's M18 x 1.5 threads, so it's a pretty wide diameter. If grasping with a set of vise-grip pliers does not work, you may have to drill the damned thing out.

I'm in line with davedrivesody and the other people who are advising you to strongly weld a solid piece of square bar stock inserted into that 3/8" square hole before trying anything else, and using that to remove it.

OF

 

I would get a nut welded on the bolt while there is still material there. If further wrenching removes what's left of the head, the difficulty of removing the bolt just grew exponentially.

 

I have never tried this, but there are tools to remove rounded bolts that grab onto the bolt head more as you turn... if you find a matching size there may be some success with that. It would let you work on the outside of the fastener if the inside has become unusable. I like to attack things like this with a good pair of vice grips, but clearly no room for that. I also have an impact hammer. the kind that you hit with a hammer and has a 1/2 drive at the end.

I recently removed my plug and it was difficult to crack loose.

Good news is you can still take it somewhere if you just want someone to crack it loose for a fee. Mechanics have all kinds of tricks.

 

I have never tried this, but there are tools to remove rounded bolts that grab onto the bolt head more as you turn... if you find a matching size there may be some success with that. It would let you work on the outside of the fastener if the inside has become unusable. I like to attack things like this with a good pair of vice grips, but clearly no room for that. I also have an impact hammer. the kind that you hit with a hammer and has a 1/2 drive at the end.

I recently removed my plug and it was difficult to crack loose.

Good news is you can still take it somewhere if you just want someone to crack it loose for a fee. Mechanics have all kinds of tricks.

Mine was so tight that I bent my socket wrench trying to get it loose. I have no idea if the transmission fluid was ever changed before. Gave up and took it to my mechanic. He cracked it open no problem.

 

Maybe try a good set of vice grips, possibly get it to break. Your going to need a new plug anyway.
If all else fails carefully cut a slot to put a big screw driver that you can leverage on with a wrench.

yeah if there’s any play in the plug when you initially tried to get it out, leaves room for exactly what happened to you.

Good luck with it!

 

Get a new plug and washer from a Honda dealer before pulling this one off. Could be that the wrench went crooked while using the cheater bar.

 

Does this work ? -> Curved Jaw Locking Pliers Set, 3 Pc. . If it too tight, have to weld a nut and remove it. May be easier to take to a mechanic

Just like kernel said, get the new plug and washer before trying anything.

 

that's a good possibility. I always try to put a second hand on the end of the ratchet when using an extension. Its hard to not have the force applied to the handle pull the entire ratchet so it effectively starts slipping off. When I break big bolts I use a jack stand to keep things in line

 

How much long do you want to keep the van? Maybe just get a oil extractor and change transmission oil from atop...

 

I had the same problem bolt would not give .Then I just used a regular rachet and gave it a good kick and it came loose. Could you possibly been tightening that bolt ? My 06 Ody loosens toward the rear of the vehicle. Do not damage your tranny pan, by further misaligned twisting of that bolt. As the previous poster stated get a 7 buck siphon hose and siphon from dipstick tube. Then you bought some time to plan your next move.

 

It looks like you might be able to put a small (6") pipe wrench on the OD of the plug. Works better than vise grip because the grip tightens as you apply force. A length of pipe slipped over the handle for leverage. Turn counterclockwise to remove.

 

Appreciate all the advise!
My ATF looks pretty clean from the dipstick, so I probably had it changed by a fairly new mechanic in 2019.
I'll try one more time removing the plug normally using a better wrench.
I'll get a new Honda plug ready. Then try to loosen the nut with a few rounds of hammer bang+WD40 spray first. If this fails, I'll take it to Honda dealership. I just need a dry day when I have time during day-light hours which is hard to come by for a while.
Thank you! -Harry

 

I would get one of those small propane torches and heat the end of that bolt up. You don’t need to heat it up so it’s red hot, but just enough to see if a little heat will help break it loose.

 

Don’t use WD-40. If you use any spray, use a penetrant such as PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. However, I doubt that a spray is going to be your key to victory in this case.

BTW, make sure you can loosen the fill plug on the top of the transmission case. That is usually the more difficult plug to break free.
( You can fill through the dipstick tube, but that is not the preferred method. )

 

It looks like that thing may be crossthreaded in there, not quite sure that's the crush washer sticking out like that, if it is, some Caveman sure put the ole Armstrong to it..... Lots of great thoughts on getting it out, but if you don't have the tools or expertise, you may just take in to a shop.
Looking at the pics it looks as if you didn't have the 3/8" fully seated, and that surely would cause what happened.
Would take thscott's advice and see if you can crack the fill plug on top to ensure when it's all said and done you'll be able to easily refill. The dipstick fill technique works, but really slow.

Remember "lefty loosy, righty tighty"

 

I wouldn't loosen that drain bolt if I were you. That's at the point of no return and is a "one time loosening" which you will find damages after the bolt comes off. If you look closely, you can see the aluminum trans case on the outer edge of that drain bolt deformed at the bottom. If you want to change the fluid, try using a vacuum pump through the dip stick instead, that is the only safe method. There are plenty of fluid extractor setups available via Amazon.

On the other hand, if you want to try to loosen it, on a good nice fitting wrench on the drain bolt and kick it with your foot. Human legs have the biggest muscle in human bodies, way larger muscle than arms. You'll need to lift the van high enough to attempt that. That's how I loosened it the first time from the factory.

 

If you can't get a grip with some kind of wrench, one of these will grab it, and extend out beyond the collar to put a box wrench on the extractor, or just use with an impact wrench turning counterclockwise. Extractor set

 

t-rd GOOD CALL on the deformed case!!. I don't think you can be sure that the sealing surface under that washer is flat any longer.

If you can't get a grip with some kind of wrench, one of these will grab it, and extend out beyond the collar to put a box wrench on the extractor, or just use with an impact wrench turning counterclockwise. Extractor set

That is exactly what I had in mind when I replied earlier with the very vague "there are tools to remove rounded bolts that grab onto the bolt head more as you turn... if you find a matching size there may be some success with that. It would let you work on the outside of the fastener if the inside has become unusable "

I have a buddy with a previous generation odyssey and he didn't replace the aluminum washer during a fluid swap. He even spent the money for Honda fluid at the dealer.

For the cost of less than $2, he probably would not have had a drip when he refilled. Its human nature at that point to tighten a little more... and more .... damn drip... more. He put enough force into it that he cracked his transmission case and now had a different and larger leak. Guess what the transmission shop he took it to said... they are in the business of rebuilding transmissions. Word to the wise.. replace that washer each change and avoid issues... also use a good torque wrench or at least don't overtighten. You shouldn't have to put a foot on the exhaust and use a breaker bar to break these things loose.

 

I bought a 2012 from a dealer that was fully dealer serviced. Had 106k on it when it bought it. Every record at every interval.

my first trans fluid change. I had to use a breaker bar and aerokroil to get it loose. I just made sure the breaker bar was fully seated and kept pressure against the head so it wouldn’t slip out.

 

I attempted to change ATF on NY's Day, and was unable to loosen the drain bolt.
I used a Husky ratchet wrench with 3/8" head and a 15" pipe extension. But the bolt felt like lead and became deformed. Any advise on a good tool (and/or method) to use to loosen the drain bolt? I'm going to buy a new bolt and new tool for the job. View attachment 159646 View attachment 159647 View attachment 159646 View attachment 159647

Any idea who tightened it last time? I suspect it was way, way, way, overtightened. There is a crush washer that should be used as well and since I don't own a torque wrench I do it by feel like I do the oil drain plug. Just snug, but not cranked down. I suppose another possibility is an aftermarket plug? How much history do you have on the van?

Surprised that husky ratchet did that? Generally you need a good quality ratchet that won't create that now what you need to do use a map gas torch or acetylene torch to heat up that Bolt and the area that It Bolts to the crack it loose. Using vice grips or better a type of pipe wrench channel lock to self tightening gripping kind it will come right loose once you heat it up you need to heat it real good she'll pop right off loose that is

 

The best advice given was to leave it alone and use an fluid extractor either from the full tube or the fill on the top of the transmission. They are $89 and work well. Given the mess you’ve got, you are playing with fire trying to remove it.

 

With the exception the sediments won't get extracted.

 

I keep looking at the pics, trying to figure out what I'm looking at.....in the overall context.

It looks like the ratchet was either not fully inserted, or slipped out halfway, because the part of the plug that's deformed is only about half the depth.

Perhaps more importantly, it looks like the wrong crush washer was used. Too big (diameter), and with the narrow opening, the bolt deformed it downward into a cone shape. The installer was determined enough to apply enough torque to reshape the washer and crush part of it to provide the seal, but also to create a jammed in interference fit of the washer.

I do not believe that the correct crush washer extends beyond the shoulder of the drain plug, certainly not more than a mm.

 

It seems that Harry has gone away.

 

It does look that way.

OF

 

Pumping iron, getting ready to break that sucker loose!

 

Ty and appreciate all the advises and ideas!
I got the bolt removed, ATF drained, replaced with NEW bolt and washer, tighten back to 36lb-m.
I bought a new Kobalt 3/8" ratchet with long handle, a bar clamp, and new drain plug and washer for the job. I can't believe Honda dealership charged me $4.6x for the $0.10 washer!!!
I sprayed the spot with WD40, banged a few times with a 6oz hammer; repeated 3x in 1hr. Made sure I inserted the 3/8 drive sqr all the way in with the help of hammer. Clamped the ratchet head tightly to the bolt. Just one very strenuous pull got it loosened. Clamping was probably the key.
Root cause of issue: Drain bolt was probably a cheap replacement and no washer was used; metal appeared softer than stainless steel; and it was tighten too tight; the Husky ratchet (with corners of the drive square rounding) was probably not the best tool for the job.
Took a bunch of pictures to show.
Sry I didn't follow along and didn't participate in the discussion. VERY busy, with a full time job, a 1/2 time job, and several side jobs, kids, wife, flute, gardening... just no time!!!
Thannk you！！

 

Man, sigh of relief. phew

Root cause of issue: Drain bolt was probably a cheap replacement

That appears to be an OEM drain bolt, to me at least. That magnet on your plug (that you courageously removed ) appears to be consistent in appearance with OEM Honda and Acura ATF drain plugs I've removed from 4 and 5 speed Odyssey, Accord, and Acura TL automatic transmissions.

No washer was used;

I do believe pkrface called it.

That side pic of the two drain plugs looks familiar to me. I've seen this before. Once. Years ago, on my used 1998 Accord, I think they just kept torquing it every time it started to leak, and kept driving. The previous original owner appeared to had never changed the ATF in over 150,000 miles, and that crush washer was curled up a bit ... but it looked nothing like yours. Yours appears to be curled completely over the rim of the drain plug.

Also like you, I thought I was going to break my 3/8" drive ratchet in my attempts to loosen it, so l also switched tools. I chose to use a Klein Tools 3/8" drive breaker bar. High dollar tool, but very exact fit, and strong enough to do the job. I was almost to the point of driving over to a mechanic and have them do it for me, but I got lucky and it came loose.

metal appeared softer than stainless steel

Pic is from an Gen 6 Accord. OEM drain plug. They can eventually rust; the OEM drain plugs don't appear to be made out of stainless steel. Also, un-coated stainless fasteners and aluminum threads are not compatible. An electroplated regular steel fastener is what most OEM's use.

The shiny coating is an electroplated CPC (corrosion protective coating) similar to what you might see on various other fasteners on Hondas and Acuras (it almost has a silvery-goldish sheen to it). It helps a steel plug like that to be properly tightened and removed many times over the life of the vehicle without degrading the aluminum threads in an aluminum casting like your transmission case.

Having been almost in the same boat once before, I definitely agree that your first ratchet was not a good fit...especially due to the damage to the plug (and you have strong arms). I would also agree with the other posters on this thread that the previous guy grotesquely over-torqued it.

I'm amazed with your rig that you used to keep it from backing out on your second attempt.

Man, this whole thread was so nerve-wracking, I'm going to go ahead an make myself a White Russian this morning.

Again, heartiest congratulations. I know a little of your anguish, but only a little!

OF

 

So, you are saying the old bolt just had really wide shoulder, not a separate gasket. Interesting.

Congrats on staying with it!

 

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