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DIY Power tailgate beep disable

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37K views 46 replies 13 participants last post by  Krys0100  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all, i just completed this mod tonight and it took me around 45 mins. I cant stand the annoying beep the power tailgate makes especially when i get home late and need to unload stuff and don't want to wake the whole neighborhood. i read some posts by others that they were able to muffle the sound. I decided to add a 12V rocker switch in-line with the wire that feeds power to that lovely beeper. this way i have the option of switching it back on if i miss listening to it. One can also just cut/terminate the wire to be rid of it. The beeper itself sits below the left tail light assembly behind the bumper. i looked up the the wiring schematic for my Canadian 2011 Touring, the wire that powers the beeper is light blue and it is pin#8 at the 20-pin connector behind the left rear panel(inside cargo area), the panel with 12V power outlet and cubbies. The 20-pin connector is also light blue. i'll upload some pics soon. As with any mods, Do at your own risk. I am not responsible for any mistakes or unfortunate results such as that the beeper starts to swear at you in a Samuel L. Jackson voice.

http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...jxa_isisviewer_sa.aspx?content=svg.svg&k=K81113/enu/K81113201220A_0001&p=EM&t=V

Tools
18 gauge wire. i used about 2 feet+. the more the better. splice at stock wire, to the panel and back and it's nice to have slack when adding the switch.
12V rocker switch
2 female spade connectors for the rocker switch
torch or solder gun
Solder and heat shrink(not required if using bullets but i prefer to solder)
lighter for the heatshrink
wire cutters
pliers to remove the plastic knobs placed for the cargo netting. add masking tape to it so it doesn't mar anything
makeshift template of the switch. i used paper
drill and router for creating a hole for the switch

1) Open rear tailgate and absorb that annoying tone......then exhale a sigh of relief knowing that you will be rid of it soon. make sure the magic seats are up so you have access to the panel at the lower back where it latches to the tailgate. This needs to be removed first as it is sitting on the other panel you need to get at. its held in by 2 cargo netting knobs. use a plier to loosen it like a screw. just enough so you can use your fingers the rest of the way. then just rank it out.



2) Loosen/remove the left upper cargo netting knob that is above the shelves. loosen enough weather stripping to remove the panel. Pull towards to loosen the panel but not too hard as the 12V power outlet has a connector. disconnect the 12V outlet. the entire panel does not need to come off. its flexible enough to bend and do work. i bent it just past the speaker. it was enough to get to the 20-pin connector.



3) Disconnect the light blue 20-pin connector. there is 2 light blue connectors. it is the top larger one. Find and expose the light blue wire at pin#8, cut the wire a distance away so you have room to splice into it. If one doesn't care to go further, then just tape up the ends and plug the connector back in and reassemble in reverse. No more beep forever. if not, continue....






4) measure wire, strip and Solder your wires at each of the stripped ends of the light blue wire, then heat shrink.

5) at the other ends of the new wires strip/add a female spade connector that matches the male spades of the 12V rocker switch. connect them to the switch and plug the 20-pin connector back in. Test! should work.



6) Next is to mount the switch, i removed the connections at the switch for now as the switch needs to be fed into the panel from the front. i traced an outline of the switch on a small piece of paper. i cut out the inside so it left a hole. i taped the template on the panel right above the inserted shelves. check the inside of the panel that it's clear. i then i used a small drill bit and made many holes along the outline. after that i used my route with a metal wheel to remove the unwanted plastic. The switch didn't fit at first as it was still too small so i swapped to a rounder bit. after shaving off more it finally fit. reconnect the wires and test again.



7) Reconnect the 12 volt power outlet and start reassembling everything in reverse. make sure to reattach the weather stripping and the 3 cargo netting knobs.

Hope this helps.
 
#38 ·
It annoyed me a little (too loud) but it bothered me more that the loudness probably bothered other people. Campgrounds, late at night in the driveway, etc.

I muffled mine when I had the bumper cover off to install my hitch.
 
#4 ·
Yes stop hitting the lock fob twice or shut the honk off in the settings menus. Unless you got some aftermarket alarm, then I can't help you (or your neighbors)

Wow. Never knew something like the tailgate sound bothered people that much.
It annoys the hell out of me and I can't wait to disable it. It should be a tasteful ding. I cannot imagine having that sound repeatedly coming from my vehicle in a campground.

Now I just have to figure out if my wife's Acura RDX has the same wiring to her equally annoying, piercing beep. Thank you so much rynkin2000.
 
#6 ·
Yes, you can unplug the buzzer/beeper - it is behind the bumper cover, below the left/driver's side tail light. I wonder if it does anything besides those annoying beeps.

It always feels like I'm going to wake the neighborhood if I open/close the tailgate late at night...

-Charlie
 
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#12 ·
Well, that is what's for. As long as you don't make a habit of it, your neighbors thank you.

I hate car alarms so much. I used to live in a beach town, two blocks from the beach and two blocks from downtown.
Have heard continuous alarms going off, completely ignored. They are useless.
 
#14 ·
Well, if you value your neighbors and it's late, you just have to walk out there and check. My wife or I will often do that, just looking for the blinking light. (And locking the front gate that actually acts as the front door to our home). What we really should do is clean out the garage and park like civilized folks.
 
#18 ·
I think an auto close up is possible right now, but the corporate lawyers said no. Safety first!

Speaking of safety, I just found the piezo piercing annoyance and unplugged it. Would love to find a tasteful ding to replace it, but so far I have only found a ding dong that sounds like you just walked into the store. But now I can auto open my hatch at 11:00 PM in a campground.
 
#20 ·
Good point about the safety issue associated with auto close. However I don't see this as much different from remote closing the sliding doors. Of course, I am not a legal expert so my opinion is probably not worth the electrons used to display this text.
 
#23 ·
I got into this mod yesterday, and wanted to offer some more info that may be helpful, and to clarify the OP's end result: In my quest to silence the beep, I cut the #8 blue wire (blue w/silver stripe) on the light blue 20-pin and it did defeat the beep, but it also defeated the remote power operation of the tailgate, and only for opening. I could open the tailgate by the latch nice and quiet, but not from the dash or the fob. Closing the tailgate still beeped. There is another blue & silver wire on the light blue 20-pin connector, which I'm just guessing is the wire for closing. I left it alone. (To make things more confusing, the tailgate needed to be closed manually and then opened again before it would resume power operation, leaving me wondering for a bit as I had restored the wire but operation didn't go immediately back to normal.)

I re-connected the #8 wire to get back to normal operation and am now going to remove the bumper so I can disconnect the beeper itself and still have full remote control of the tailgate. Choose your own adventure.

A bonus to pulling the interior side trim out though- I was finally able to ground and route my aftermarket trailer wiring behind the panel. Looks like I'll have to cut and reattach the 4-pin connector harness as it won't fit through the "body holes" but at least now I'll have trailer wire available from the outside instead of pinching the harness through the tailgate.
 
#24 ·
Looks like I'll have to cut and reattach the 4-pin connector harness as it won't fit through the "body holes" but at least now I'll have trailer wire available from the outside instead of pinching the harness through the tailgate.
You might be able to squeeze it through the factory grommet in the center of the rear panel where the factory harness goes. You'll have to slit and re-use the factory grommet though. Read the directions for the factory hitch/harness for more info.

-Charlie
 
#30 ·
Success!

I removed the bumper and disconnected the beeper. To be able to open and close the tailgate without the beep is... so nice.

The 4-pin trailer harness is just 1/4" too wide for the factory port, but instead of cutting and re-splicing the cables I decided to ease the port open with some snips, then bend it back. I put a slice in the rubber grommet replaced it around the wires, secured the rest of the strand with zip-ties and it's all gravy.

Thanks ryukin2000 for your original post on this. Even though I reconnected the lt. blue wire in the end, your post motivated me to go open up the panel, and that allowed me to finally get the trailer wiring fixed up.

Thanks to the others that chimed in and posted info on this as well. I'm pretty stoked to have finally gotten to those items.
 
#33 ·
I wouldn't tow a rope with an Ody unless it has a tranny cooler.

Having toasted a Gen 2 tranny due to towing (I know, different animal, but still...) I installed a tranny cooler on my 06 the first weekend I had it home. My 17 took a little longer to get done, but I didn't even sell my 06 until the cooler was on the 17.

My 17 is CPO EX-L with 50K left on the extended warranty. There was no way I was towing anything until the cooler was installed.

The Tru-Cool 4544 comes highly recommended. Here is how I installed mine:


Pictures of the plumbing can be found late in this thread: