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Ignition switch steering lock and imobolizer

18K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  Rosy Lenz  
#1 · (Edited)
Ignition switch steering lock and immobilizer

I was having a problem with my key and ignition on my 2004 EXL. The key would only turn in the cylinder after much wiggling and pulling. Eventually, the key would not turn at all and I therefore could not start the van. I knew I needed to replace or repair the cylinder. Honda quoted me $800 to replace and reprogram. That was not going to work so I had the dealer make me a new key from code ($35) and tried that. It worked, but I did not want to take it out because I didn't trust it. I left the key in the ignition and drove it for a month until the other day when the new key would not turn and would not come out. Now I know I had to repair or replace the the ignition cylinder/steering lock. Taking it out was simple and I brought it to a locksmith for repair. Locksmith said he can't repair the cylinder unless the key worked. There is more to the story but I will spare you folks the details. He are my questions that I would appreciate help with:
1) Can I replace the unit and use my old imobolizer? If I do this, will my new keys need to be programmed to my old immobilizer? Is that possible?
or
2) Do I buy the unit with a new immobilizer that works with the new keys and then have the van programmed?
3) how do I do the repair and drive it to get programmed if the unprogrammed immobilizer keeps the car from running?

i am a little confused about my next step and how to achieve it. All I need is to replace the cylinder, and getting it in and out is a breeze, but I don't understand what needs to happen with the immobilizer

i believe I need this part:35100-S0X-315NI

Any help is appreciated
 
#2 ·
same thing happened to me, a few of the tumblers are worn out, go on you tube and find 2004 honda odyssey ignition key fix and you will fin a video on how to take the worn out tumblers out of the ignition and just keep the ones that still work, once its opened up you can see the ones that are broken, those are the ones stopping the tumbler from turning, tke those few out and put it all back together, i think it took me 2 hrs from start to van running again
 
#3 ·
That was my thought because I've seen the videos and read the threads. However, I took the cylinder out and brought it to a reliable locksmith because they would do it for a reasonable price. When I showed it to the guy he said he could not help me because in order to get inside the cylinder, the key needed to function. I found that hard to believe, but he had another one on the workbench that he could not repair for the same reason. In addition to my key not turning, it is actually stuck in the cylinder and won't come out. For me to get the immobilizer off, I would have to cut the head off the key.
Was your key stuck or did it just not turn? Either way, were you able to remove the cylinder guts without a functioning key?
Thanks for the info.
 
#4 ·
I fixed mine on my '03 by removing some of the worn wafers, but my key would just stick sometimes. I would think the locksmith would be able to free up the key with some of his tricks.
Some have freed up the key by tapping on the key with a hammer driving it in deeper. Others used things like Liquid Wrench or some penetrating lubricants. Do more youtube searching.
Just looking at some of the vids will give you the inside look at that lock and perhaps a good clue. Might even have to go to muscle power at the LAST resort before buying
Look up also how to get a stuck ignition key out of the lock or how to get it to turn.
If you have another locksmith within a reasonable distance, try them.
Best of luck.
Buffalo4
 
#5 ·
Does anyone know if I can mount my original immobilizer to a new cylinder and have the new keys that come with the new cylinder programmed to my original immobilizer?
 
#6 ·
When you refer to your "immobilizer" I will assume you mean that part number you listed earlier. If I'm wrong, let me know.

That part looks different vs. what is in my '99 EX, but at least on my '99, the actual code was stored on chips in the ECU. That stuff out by the key cylinder is just un-coded electronics for sending signals back and forth to the key. So on my '99, I could have replaced just that part with no need for re-coding anything. From discussion with mechanics, it sounds like that part only fails due to destruction when somebody tries to steal the car.

The things that must match are the RFID chips in the key heads and the code chips on the ECU. So if you need to get new (different) keys, then you would need to make changes to your ECU.

My problem fixed itself, so I never ended up needing to actually change anything.

I think I have read of people in a similar situations who cut one head off their old key just to keep the immobilizer system happy. They keep it up near the key cylinder, and apparently using a completely different key in the cylinder (so there are two different RFID chips communicating) is not a problem.
 
#7 ·
I may try that; but before I spend $300 on the key and cylinder, I want to really understand the repair. I want to avoid having to tow the van to the dealership to have them program the car.
 
#9 ·
The immobilizer transmitter on the ignition cylinder is just a transmitter. It picks up the signal from the chip in the key and sends it to the ECU to determine if the key code matches or not. It doesn't matter what key you use, assuming it's functional, the transmitter will always work. The part in the ECU that receives the code will need to be reprogrammed if you get a new ignition cylinder and choose to DIY. I suspect the dealership would program the key to match the chip in the old key rather than reprogramming the ECU.

We only have one key for our 2000 LX. I've considered getting two chipless keys made and stashing the chipped key under the plastic steering column housing, close to the transmitter. This should fool the ECU into thinking the correct key is in the ignition. Of course this makes it a little easier to steal the van, but it has a manual trans so most folks will be out of luck anyhow.
 
#10 ·
:d

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#11 ·
I finished the repair this morning and my sweet second gen is back on the road. Honda quoted me +|- $800.00 for the repair. I ended up spending $400 on the repair:
new cylinder from Honda- $265.00
new key and wafers installed by locksmith to match original key and code- $135.00
i learned a lot from this repair, but most importantly, I learned that I could have saved the cost of a new cylinder if I repaired this when the key started to jam in the cylinder, and not wait until the key became completely stuck. I know there are a few ways to go about this repair; some seem to be almost free with the exception of new bolts to attach the cylinder to the column. If this happens again, I will be much better prepared.
 
#15 ·
The key type changed in 2003, so the solutions may as well. The 02 & previous cylinders have pins with keys cut on the edges. Starting in 03 the cylinders have wafers and the keys have the sides cut. In either case, you can simply remove the wafers or pins. Any key will turn the ignition, but only one with the matching immobilizer will start the van.
 
#17 ·
I vacuumed out my ignition on my 2004 odyssey to remove sand and broken metal bits and it helped, then later used a graphite spray. So the key goes in and out better but still seldom turns due to the broken blades. I'm wondering if you think it would be feasible to remove the broken ignition but leave it connected with key in it and use a screw driver to press the actuator to get to the dealer, then unplug and replace with the new ignition switch in the dealer parking lot. Could this work? Its not that much to put the new one in once the old one is out, right?