[tyman]

I know I’m paying a little more, $15.99, but I have been using WIX XP oil filter (57356XP). It’s not the regular WIX. It’s the XP. Anyone using this one and have any opinion?

Fram ultra
ChampXL
Microgard Select

are all better and cheaper

 

[tyman]

based on some experts, regular one is good enough for normal driving, Wix XP is for towing task.

Terrible idea for towing.

 

[0dyfamily]

I don't really choose a filter based on "am I just driving?" versus "am I towing?"

Surely your oil supports the engine. High loads, severe service: good synthetic oil all the way.

On that note, the filter supports the oil. The oil, no matter which you use, can't do its job as well as it could if wear particles and contaminants produced by the operating engine are not captured by the filter and are thus allowed to keep moving through the lubrication system.

I think we've all interacted with mechanics, and some of us with engineers, who've seen first-hand the effects of "not enough filtration."

Is there such a thing as "too much filtration"? Maybe, but if I'm not using a bypass system added to the engine's regular full-flow filter, it's hard to see ever using a not-so-great filter for general use and then a better one for severe service (like towing.)

My take (like most people, I'm sure): get the best filter you can (cost versus benefit here) and keep using that, and change oil and filter regularly.

based on some experts, regular one is good enough for normal driving, Wix XP is for towing task.

Experts? Who? I'd say you probably have enough information as a regular Joe Consumer (like me) to know that you should just use the best filter you can get at a price you agree with, and use that for any task. I do that, no matter if it's just me in the van, or 2,000 lbs. on the hitch and a few hundred pounds of tools in the cabin.

OF

 

[majiexpress]

Experts? Who? I'd say you probably have enough information as a regular Joe Consumer (like me) to know that you should just use the best filter you can get at a price you agree with, and use that for any task. I do that, no matter if it's just me in the van, or 2,000 lbs. on the hitch and a few hundred pounds of tools in the cabin.
OF

here is the link
WIX Vs WIX XP Filter Review: Which Should You Choose? (vehiclefreak.com)

 

[surgeon]

WIX XP

 

[tyman]

here is the link
WIX Vs WIX XP Filter Review: Which Should You Choose? (vehiclefreak.com)

View attachment 179584

Lol

 

[tyman]

I don't really choose a filter based on "am I just driving?" versus "am I towing?"

Surely your oil supports the engine. High loads, severe service: good synthetic oil all the way.

On that note, the filter supports the oil. The oil, no matter which you use, can't do its job as well as it could if wear particles and contaminants produced by the operating engine are not captured by the filter and are thus allowed to keep moving through the lubrication system.

I think we've all interacted with mechanics, and some of us with engineers, who've seen first-hand the effects of "not enough filtration."

Is there such a thing as "too much filtration"? Maybe, but if I'm not using a bypass system added to the engine's regular full-flow filter, it's hard to see ever using a not-so-great filter for general use and then a better one for severe service (like towing.)

My take (like most people, I'm sure): get the best filter you can (cost versus benefit here) and keep using that, and change oil and filter regularly.

Experts? Who? I'd say you probably have enough information as a regular Joe Consumer (like me) to know that you should just use the best filter you can get at a price you agree with, and use that for any task. I do that, no matter if it's just me in the van, or 2,000 lbs. on the hitch and a few hundred pounds of tools in the cabin.

OF

Yup. The absolute last thing you’d want towing or hard under load would be less filtration allowing particles and larger particles to circulate.

 

[94eg!]

FRAM Ultra is best for filtration. It's not best for flow. K&N is best for flow while maintaining good filtration. FRAM racing is probably best for flow.

So it depends on what you want/need. If you operate at higher RPM for extended periods towing up hill, flow will be more important (to keep bearings cool and avoid pressure drop).

Personally I use FRAM Ultra cause we don't tow or race up grades above 3500rpm.

BTW: Honda A02 filter is made by FRAM/Honeywell and is a shitty Fram basic orange inside with cardboard end caps. The only thing Honda spec'd as an upgrade over the cheap Fram orange was a few extra pleats and a silicone drain back valve. Not worth the $7 when a Fram Ultra is $1 more and available at every Walmart next to the 5qt jugs of mobil1.

A01 left, A02 center, FRAM orange right. See the current A02 is a cardboard piece of junk! I miss the old Filters A01 filters. Kept one in my collectables stash lol.

 

[94eg!]

BTW: Honda Racing found the smaller filter canisters are actually better at maintaining consistent oil pressure. Said it has to do with having less flex in the cylindrical can (which balloons slightly). Race teams even put hose clamps around the smaller cans to pre-tension them. Probably only matters for racing though.

In Japan they even offer upgraded HAMP oil filters that are a shorter Filtech A01. I actually think they are just repainted Honda motorcycle filters.

Motorcycle 15410-MFJ-D01

HAMP H1540-PFB-525

 

[thscott]

FRAM Ultra is best for filtration. It's not best for flow. K&N is best for flow while maintaining good filtration. FRAM racing is probably best for flow.

So it depends on what you want/need. If you operate at higher RPM for extended periods towing up hill, flow will be more important (to keep bearings cool and avoid pressure drop).

Personally I use FRAM Ultra cause we don't tow or race up grades above 3500rpm.

BTW: Honda A02 filter is made by FRAM/Honeywell and is a shitty Fram basic orange inside with cardboard end caps. The only thing Honda spec'd as an upgrade over the cheap Fram orange was a few extra pleats and a silicone drain back valve. Not worth the $7 when a Fram Ultra is $1 more and available at every Walmart next to the 5qt jugs of mobil1.

A01 left, A02 center, FRAM orange right. See the current A02 is a cardboard piece of junk! I miss the old Filters A01 filters. Kept one in my collectables stash lol.

View attachment 179586

Nice comparisons. BTW, I think you meant to type Filtech A01 filters. I will be sad when my inventory of A01 filters run out in a few years.

 

[tyman]

FRAM Ultra is best for filtration. It's not best for flow. K&N is best for flow while maintaining good filtration. FRAM racing is probably best for flow.

So it depends on what you want/need. If you operate at higher RPM for extended periods towing up hill, flow will be more important (to keep bearings cool and avoid pressure drop).

Personally I use FRAM Ultra cause we don't tow or race up grades above 3500rpm.

BTW: Honda A02 filter is made by FRAM/Honeywell and is a shitty Fram basic orange inside with cardboard end caps. The only thing Honda spec'd as an upgrade over the cheap Fram orange was a few extra pleats and a silicone drain back valve. Not worth the $7 when a Fram Ultra is $1 more and available at every Walmart next to the 5qt jugs of mobil1.

A01 left, A02 center, FRAM orange right. See the current A02 is a cardboard piece of junk! I miss the old Filters A01 filters. Kept one in my collectables stash lol.

View attachment 179586

What is your basis for saying the Fram Ultras don’t have “good flow”? And then what standardized test are you basing this upon?

 

[0dyfamily]

What is your basis for saying the Fram Ultras don’t have “good flow”? And then what standardized test are you basing this upon?

I'm glad I'm not the only one who is thinking this.

My thinking, correct me if my reasoning is wrong: if all of the tested filters "flow enough" under all operating RPM's to deliver oil in sufficient pressure and volume to our street engines, then these measurements of flow resistance aren't as important as "what the filter does for us" (namely, capture and retain contaminants and generated wear particles.)

I think I'm on the right track here?

OF

 

[94eg!]

Yeah your right. There just isn't really a way to tell. But one those not-so-scientific diy tests on yoo-toob showed the Fram Ultra in particular suffers from pressure loss well before M1 and K&N. But it makes sense since the Ultra filters down to 20 microns vs all others rated at 30 microns. As the media loads up, the filter will begin to restrict...and the ultra filter will load up with smaller particles that other filters pass. Of coarse loading your oil with spoonfuls of aluminum powder till all the filters max out is hardly an example what really happens inside an engine. Just an interesting demo what "could" happen when you let your oil get way too dirty.

I use ultras on all my cars (even a 9000rpm integra R motor) cause i change my oil relatively early (max 5k miles for vehicles driven more). I also drive like an old man. I want as much particulates out of the oil as possible.

If I was doing racing I would probably get a k&n. Might do the same for towing and also change the oil more often. The less crud in the oil, the better.

 

[dvpatel]

Should I try AT-205 in the crankcase as many forum guru suggested? 06 EXL with 300k km .
In past 2 oil changes, I noticed oily moist on my oil pan, engine low body, and even on Tranny housing, all the way to Tranny side right above the Neutral safety switch area.
Basically it was slow leak, not noticeable from oil stick level, but for 5K miles(10k Km) OCI time frame, i need to top off once, probably 300 ml or more, so it won't be lower to the min. I had muzzled VCM 2 years ago, so oil burning shouldn't be this much. from top, the upper portion of the engine bay is quite dry, Valve gasket is no leaking. I had checked Transmission level quite often, no drop. Power Steering level did drop a little along the time, but after remove the bumper, there is no visual PS fluid leak along the pipe and joints. so my concern is there is a slow oil leak developing somewhere. and it get worse now, recently i had noticed some oily marks on the driveway, not puddle though, at driver side front left just under battery tray area. is this a syptom of infamous Real Main Seal leaking?

This relates to an oil filter discussion how?

 

[dvpatel]

Who da f is putting the van on jackstands just to change the oil? Bruh...

Ummm me?

 

[tyman]

Ummm me?

/squint

Step into my office, please.

 

[tyman]

I'm glad I'm not the only one who is thinking this.

My thinking, correct me if my reasoning is wrong: if all of the tested filters "flow enough" under all operating RPM's to deliver oil in sufficient pressure and volume to our street engines, then these measurements of flow resistance aren't as important as "what the filter does for us" (namely, capture and retain contaminants and generated wear particles.)

I think I'm on the right track here?

OF

Pretty much.

 

[majiexpress]

This relates to an oil filter discussion how?

well, as we were discussing oil change, that leak concern from my oil change observation popped up, so I asked the question BTW

you can delete that 20 days earlier post， i have no problem with that.

 

[dvpatel]

/squint

Step into my office, please.

So. I do have an explanation. Storing ramps needs space and my garage is cramped with a lot of other crap but we keep the space for both cars to be parked inside is the primary driver.

In addition, I jack up the Ody with the wheel fully turned towards the passenger side. Then, put it on jack stands, get the oil out and then lower it off the stands. That does not help with the oil change per say. BUT. Does help for the ATF change every other OCI. Then, I raise it back, slide the stands under it for safety but leave it on the jack, quickly tighten the two bolts (if Oil Change and ATF D&F) and then lower it all the way down and then fill up the oil and the ATF.

Has been working fine for me for a while. If I use ramps, then oil changes would be fine but the ATF D&F may not as every time I lower it back down, some more ATF comes out.

 

[0dyfamily]

Of coarse loading your oil with spoonfuls of aluminum powder till all the filters max out is hardly an example what really happens inside an engine. Just an interesting demo what "could" happen when you let your oil get way too dirty.

Completely agree with that!

OF