[Mxracer]

@Mxracer , I had to find a local hill with a long, long, downgrade. This enabled me to speed up faster and use a speed less than 60mph (like 50mph) and do it repeatedly. Also did it at night, late night to avoid traffic. The only problem I had was damned whitetail deer everywhere.

It's harder to do this, for me at least, because I felt like I would be abusing the brittle Gen 2 transmissions on our 2002 and 2003 EX Odys every time I floored it to get up to speed for another braking event while bedding pads, and do this ten times.

Autozone Duralast rotors are fine. Nobody has the market on making "better cast iron" than the other guys. Autozone pads are fine, too, especially their Duralast Gold premium line.

OF

I just do it on the highway. Plenty of room with 3 lanes.

I don't floor it, I just accelerate normally. It's the brakes I hit hard.

Idk if they are better or worse but after doing a timing belt with all OEM parts my wallet needed a break. No pun intended.

Just found it unusual that the oddy needed it done several times.

 

[Azdude]

For some strange reason, it took a lot more effort to bedd the brakes on the Odyssey, and I had to do it multiple times. Before you shoot the parts cannon again try this.
Carefully, very carefully, spray down the caliper,pads,and rotors with brake cleaner. Then go bedd them, hard, like emergency hard braking. I found that 50mph down to 5mph, three to four times eliminated it. Do it when the roads are empty so after the 4th time you can drive a few miles without ever touching the brake pedal. This will cool them down quickly without you having to sit around waiting. I did that a few times over the course of a month, and they're still good over a year later and counting. And this is all on Autozone's cheapest brake pads and rotors.

I’m in the middle of trying to use semi-metallic pads to get a deposit off my frozen rotors before I give up and just get all new, cheaper rotors. I’ve gone through stoptechs bed in and deposit removal procedures (10 cycles 60-30mph stops) and have seen completely black rims, a minor vibration improvement, but still terrible high speed vibrations under light braking.

Can try your technique too.

The expensive route doesn’t always work.

Uneven Pad Deposit removal | Brakes-shop.com

Leading innovator & distributor of world class brake components and systems for race cars and high performance vehicles on the street and track.

www.brakes-shop.com

 

[0dyfamily]

Google: cryo treated rotors

Cryo can relieve residual stress in cast iron ... even though the mechanism isn't understood (like cryo treatment of a rifle receiver made from 8620 steel).

Still, cryo does nothing to stop adherent accumulation of pad material on a rotor face, the primary mechanism for causing a lot of so-called "warped" rotors. @Azdude is seeing that first-hand.

I quit using 100 grit garnet paper to sand rotors by hand to get a fresh, shiny rotor surface prior to bedding in pads. Took forever, and I'm getting too blamed old for this.

Now, I either use my Makita orbital sander, or just buy new rotors and bed in the pads. Just too many family vehicles to look after, and so little time.

OF

 

[Mxracer]

I’m in the middle of trying to use semi-metallic pads to get a deposit off my frozen rotors before I give up and just get all new, cheaper rotors. I’ve gone through stoptechs bed in and deposit removal procedures (10 cycles 60-30mph stops) and have seen completely black rims, a minor vibration improvement, but still terrible high speed vibrations under light braking.

Can try your technique too.

The expensive route doesn’t always work.

Uneven Pad Deposit removal | Brakes-shop.com

Leading innovator & distributor of world class brake components and systems for race cars and high performance vehicles on the street and track.

www.brakes-shop.com

I kept it simple and consistent.
Went on highway, accelerated to 50ish, looked in rear view mirror and slammed the brakes, hard. Repeated that 4 times and then drove about 5 miles without ever touching the brake pedal. When I finally touched it, if there was any vibration I did it again. Eventually I had eliminated 98% of it that night. Fast forward a few days later and I went on highway and it shook so bad it was a borderline death rattle. I swore something else had to be going on with the front end, wheels, etc. But there wasn't, they just needed to be bedded again. Nuts that it took so much effort but they are vibration free since.

 

[Azdude]

Fast forward a few days later and I went on highway and it shook so bad it was a borderline death rattle.

funny you mentioned this, seemed better after doing the rebedding couple days ago, but this afternoon it’s vibrating like a mad dog. I’ll give your route a try, but am about to order new rotors.

or just buy new rotors and bed in the pads. Just too many family vehicles to look after, and so little time.

like you said, I don’t have time to mess with this. And I’m starting to wonder if I’m getting chatter in rear rotors with all of this bed- in stuff.

familiar with all the breaking techniques to avoid chatter/deposit etc…

 

[2011.2017.odyssey]

I kept it simple and consistent.
Went on highway, accelerated to 50ish, looked in rear view mirror and slammed the brakes, hard. Repeated that 4 times and then drove about 5 miles without ever touching the brake pedal. When I finally touched it, if there was any vibration I did it again. Eventually I had eliminated 98% of it that night. Fast forward a few days later and I went on highway and it shook so bad it was a borderline death rattle. I swore something else had to be going on with the front end, wheels, etc. But there wasn't, they just needed to be bedded again. Nuts that it took so much effort but they are vibration free since.

you never really elaborated what composition the pads were...

assuming cheapest autozone ceramics?

ceramic pads really are not made for this heavy vehicle, and fracture under the heat.

 

[Mxracer]

you never really elaborated what composition the pads were...

assuming cheapest autozone ceramics?

ceramic pads really are not made for this heavy vehicle, and fracture under the heat.

I didn't ask. Whatever is the cheapest pads at auotzone. If I had to guess by the amount of dust they are semi metallic. Gonna try the ceramic golds next time.

Idk about the weight and all. I have ceramics on my Tahoe and they are fine.

 

[SparkyJJO]

ceramic pads really are not made for this heavy vehicle, and fracture under the heat.

Curious how you come to this conclusion? I had ceramic pads on my Silverado which is arguably a heavier vehicle, and I towed with it a few times, and never had pad fracture. Also did not have brake judder. Not sure on size comparisons of the rotors though (noth had 17 inch wheels anyway).

 

[2011.2017.odyssey]

Curious how you come to this conclusion? I had ceramic pads on my Silverado which is arguably a heavier vehicle, and I towed with it a few times, and never had pad fracture. Also did not have brake judder. Not sure on size comparisons of the rotors though (noth had 17 inch wheels anyway).

How? Experience with this gen 4 ody.
aside from the abundance of posts for premature pulsation on the ody with certain pad and rotor combinations, the majority within 2-3 years of replacement.

The higher you go with medium and heavy duty trucks, there are little to no options for ceramics.
There is a reason for this.

if you're driving a heavier vehicle and/or towing, do you really want decreased braking performance?
would wager braking is 20% better with semi metallics on the front over akebono ceramics.

How would I know? went through dealer OEM modified vented hat rotors and a couple of aftermarket brands.
Have tossed multiple sets of rotors and ceramics in the trash with 70/80% of the friction material left.
All due to pulsation.

The akebonos scared the shit out of me on a few occasions, with hard braking towing and loaded.
So there's that.
Others have posted the same on this forum, comparing akebonos to 2x4 blocks of wood against the rotors.

Always debatable... IMO and based on my field research, high carbon rotors or cryo and semi metallics/hybrid pads, appear to be the way to go on these vans.

Sure they are dusty, but do it for the safety AND longevity.

 

[Timcono]

Current using powerstop drilled and slotted rotors with pads, still going strong. Already have 100k+ km on them. Pay more, less problem in future.

YES YES AND YES! Powerstop front and rear with drilled and slotted P.S. front rotors. 70K +/- miles, just now going to replace pads just because. NO rotor warp.

 

[0dyfamily]

Just found it unusual that the oddy needed it done several times.

I found that when I used the "bed in the brakes on a long downgrade" technique, they never got a chance to really cool down, and I got a "green fade" on them as described by the engineers who wrote that Centric whitepaper.

Edit, added this paragraph: Before bedding in pads, I either prep the rotors (for my ancient Odysseys, now just one Odyssey), or buy new rotors (other vehicles in 0dyfamily's family fleet).

After the cool-down, I did it again that same night. Pad bite was noticeably better after the second prescribed pad bedding session. Did not have to accomplish it again for over 80,000 miles until my second pad change at 200,000 miles. Averaging 100,000 miles per set of pads.

This van now has about 227,000 miles, two complete pad changes since new (Honda OEM pads), OEM still-in-spec rotors, and I recently towed just a hair over 4,000 lbs. with this van (and that double-axle box trailer had a really lousy surge brake system). I took extra care to use the parking brake after any hard full stops, and let off the brake pedal during the last bare feet of movement prior to full halt. Brakes worked very well then, still do now.

I avoid the drilled and slotted rotors for this type of work. I can't put up with less rotor mass for heat transfer (cross-drilling and slots), and points where cracks can propagate (cross-drilling) when I've got over 8,000 lbs. combined.

Edit, added this paragraph: I have always lived in areas devoid of winter road salt. Never experienced rust jacking of my rotors on any of our family vehicles. One drive to the burger joint removes "weekend rain rotor rust". Fortunate!

OF

 

[2011.2017.odyssey]

I found that when I used the "bed in the brakes on a long downgrade" technique, they never got a chance to really cool down, and I got a "green fade" on them as described by the engineers who wrote that Centric whitepaper.

After the cool-down, I did it again that same night. Pad bite was noticeably better after the second prescribed pad bedding session. Did not have to accomplish it again for over 80,000 miles until my second pad change at 200,000 miles. Averaging 100,000 miles per set of pads.

This van now has about 227,000 miles, two complete pad changes since new (Honda OEM pads), OEM still-in-spec rotors, and I recently towed just a hair over 4,000 lbs. with this van (and that double-axle box trailer had a really lousy surge brake system). I took extra care to use the parking brake after any hard full stops, and let off the brake pedal during the last bare feet of movement prior to full halt. Brakes worked very well then, still do now.

I avoid the drilled and slotted rotors for this type of work. I can't put up with less rotor mass for heat transfer (cross-drilling and slots), and points where cracks can propagate (cross-drilling) when I've got over 8,000 lbs. combined.

OF

Wish I had as much luck as you with brake longevity... am hard on all my vehicles, but the brakes on this gen 4 Ody are merciless.

still good with the cheapo the semi metallic pad swap on high carbon raybestos rotors on the ody.

Will keep annoying everyone with my updates...

its been 6-8 months now with no pulsation since the pad swap, and tossing another perfectly good looking set of akebonos in the bin.

 

[Azdude]

Wish I had as much luck as you with brake longevity... am hard on all my vehicles, but the brakes on this gen 4 Ody are merciless.

still good with the cheapo the semi metallic pad swap on high carbon raybestos rotors on the ody.

Will keep annoying everyone with my updates...

its been 6-8 months now with no pulsation since the pad swap, and tossing another perfectly good looking set of akebonos in the bin.

looks like I’ll be joining you shortly with this approach. Looks like accepting short life of rotors and tires is part of the deal for me, after trying all sorts of different options for both.. I’m ok with it at this point.

 

[0dyfamily]

Wish I had as much luck as you with brake longevity... am hard on all my vehicles, but the brakes on this gen 4 Ody are merciless.

Once I got into towing things with the Odysseys early on, I became a complete wuss when it comes to applying brakes. Always careful with acceleration, following distance, and brake application. Made me a safer driver with everything I drive.

On long downgrades, that hill grade logic has worked like a champ for me once I figured out its inner nuances.

OF

 

[John U]

Here's buildup on the rear rotors after one winter....

 

[0dyfamily]

Here's buildup on the rear rotors after one winter....

One of these days somebody is going to make a cast iron rotor with an applied coating to the pad-to-rotor friction surfaces that is hard as diamonds, will last a lifetime, and still be able to "bite" a matching pad compound.

If that happens, brake shudder and rotor deposits and changing rotors will be history.

Of course, it will cost one of my arms or legs. I need those right now.

OF

 

[phattyduck]

One of these days somebody is going to make a cast iron rotor with an applied coating to the pad-to-rotor friction surfaces that is hard as diamonds, will last a lifetime, and still be able to "bite" a matching pad compound.

Carbon Ceramic brakes are pretty close... And yes, they are expensive.

-Charlie

 

[2011.2017.odyssey]

Here's buildup on the rear rotors after one winter....

View attachment 176139

imagine my shock...

 

[jm12]

I fooled around with non-Honda pads on my 1999. Found the Honda pads were issue free compared to various aftermarket pads and rotors. I put the nice soft Honda pads on any decent quality rotor and never had another brake related issue.

That aside, you should check front end bushing, lower control arms/any thrust rods - not sure how the front end is constructed on this model year. Usually the fresh pads and rotors take the shake out for a few months but it comes back.

Have experienced this personally on my Honda, and several BMW's. People chase "warped rotors" and it turns out to be front end bushings.

 

[Azdude]

I kept it simple and consistent.
Went on highway, accelerated to 50ish, looked in rear view mirror and slammed the brakes, hard. Repeated that 4 times and then drove about 5 miles without ever touching the brake pedal. When I finally touched it, if there was any vibration I did it again. Eventually I had eliminated 98% of it that night. Fast forward a few days later and I went on highway and it shook so bad it was a borderline death rattle. I swore something else had to be going on with the front end, wheels, etc. But there wasn't, they just needed to be bedded again. Nuts that it took so much effort but they are vibration free since.

I tried your technique 4 different times in 2 sessions. It made it a little better at lower speeds but then actually a lot worse for freeway braking.

dunno if it’s our summer temps here or what…

Ordering new rotors…