[El Cranicero]

This is for a 2008 Odyssey BTW.

 

[El Cranicero]

Anyone have a guide to changing out the whole Spool Assembly? I'm reasonably mechanical, my only hang-up will be lifting up the rocker arm cover to slide the old spool off and the new one on. do I run the risk of throwing off the timing if I do it?

 

[DIY Fan]

I do not think removal of the valve cover is needed to replace the spool valve.

 

[WiiMaster]

Yeah, you don't touch the bottom half of the spool valve. That's the one that is significantly more work, and you don't need to replace it.

 

[WiiMaster]

No need to start a new thread.

MrRanger already has a video that was linked in your old thread. You do not replace the bottom half that requires you to mess with the rocker assembly. Just the top half.

 

[El Cranicero]

Hmm Interesting. Okay.

Was wondering that. I had originally removed the top half to do the seals. So I am familiar with that process. Very Easy.
I wonder if I should change back to the original seals reset everything and see what happens.

 

[WiiMaster]

Hmm Interesting. Okay.

Was wondering that. I had originally removed the top half to do the seals. So I am familiar with that process. Very Easy.
I wonder if I should change back to the original seals reset everything and see what happens.

What you can do is buy the part from Honda and use the brand new upper half with the new gaskets (there should be 3 gaskets in total)

 

[El Cranicero]

What you can do is buy the part from Honda and use the brand new upper half with the new gaskets (there should be 3 gaskets in total)

Oh, That's an interesting thought. I didn't consider that.
Though I'm unfamiliar with the three gaskets.
I know the 2 rubber ones and the metal plate. Is the plate the third one you refer too?

 

[WiiMaster]

Oh, That's an interesting thought. I didn't consider that.
Though I'm unfamiliar with the three gaskets.
I know the 2 rubber ones and the metal plate. Is the plate the third one you refer too?

Correct. The two rubber gaskets and the metal gasket.

 

[El Cranicero]

Correct. The two rubber gaskets and the metal gasket.

Great. I'll give that a try.

 

[hpark21]

It would be IDENTICAL to your gasket replacement, just that you will replace the top part with new spool valve assembly's top part.

BOTTOM part replacement requires rocker arm assembly removal I believe so that is why the dealership quote is so high.

 

[El Cranicero]

I see on Rockauto that I can buy the top portion of the assembly, or the entire thing.
I’m apt to go with the OEM and pay the extra for Hondas, but wondered if anyone has had success with aftermarket. (Except Dorman, because they are garbage)

 

[WiiMaster]

I see on Rockauto that I can buy the top portion of the assembly, or the entire thing.
I’m apt to go with the OEM and pay the extra for Hondas, but wondered if anyone has had success with aftermarket. (Except Dorman, because they are garbage)

Really it just depends. I'd go with Honda if you want to make sure you don't have to do this job again for quite some time. But people have had success even with the eBay counterfeit gaskets. It's a gamble.

 

[fatlard]

@El Cranicero try stretching out the mesh part of the filter of the replacement gasket

2008 Honda Odyssey P3497

Hello guys, This past week my 08 Honda Odyssey touring threw the p3497 code. I've done some research and checked my oil levels which was low and topped it off for now, will do oil change soon (probably burning oil). I installed two new oil pressure switch front/rear reset the code and turned...

www.odyclub.com

 

[El Cranicero]

What you can do is buy the part from Honda and use the brand new upper half with the new gaskets (there should be 3 gaskets in total)

So I followed this suggestion today and bought the whole assembly.
Separated the top from Botticelli g assembly and installed the top assembly with seals.
Buttoned it all back up and took her for a test drive and got the engine good and hot.

happy to report, no check engine light yet.
fingers crossed it’s good. My VCM tuner 2 is on its way. So hopefully that passes through customs in a reasonable time and I get it quickly.

I have to say, I had no idea how much the ECO modekicked in and every time I saw it on the test drive my heart skipped a beat. Now that I know this thing cause an issue I’ll probably never be able to stop thinking about it until I get the tuner.

many way to keep theECO mode off till I get my tuner, other than not drive the van?

 

[DIY Fan]

Loosen the gas gap.

 

[El Cranicero]

Loosen the gas gap.

Seriously?

 

[WiiMaster]

Seriously?

Anything that causes a CEL (like an EVAP leak) will disable VCM as VCM is inactive whenever a CEL is on. What you can also do is disconnect the rear bank oil pressure switch (the VCM solenoid for the rear bank) to accomplish the same thing.

 

[El Cranicero]

Hi guys.
Thought I’d give an update on my progress.

I changed out the entire upper portion of the spool valve about a week ago and cleared the codes. Since then we have driven the vehicle significantly with no new codes appearing.

earlier this week my VCM Tuner 2 arrived in the mail and I installed it last night.
Took the van for a good long ride and the ECO light did not appear on the dash and we did not receive any codes from having the device installed.

thsnks everyone for the help and suggestions.
Great fun fir the hive mind around here.

 

[DIY Fan]

FWIW, P3497 is Valve Pause Stuck Off, applies only to the front bank, and only affects cylinder #4. The VCM is stuck and #4 is stuck Off. The crank position sensor detects the absence of #4 firing and the computer turns off fuel to the #4 injector. So there is a misfire on #4 and it can be felt at all RPMs. It is worse at low RPM and milder at highway speeds. Installing any kind of muzzler will prevent cylinder #4 going to sleep and prevent P3497. Even if you messed up like me and installed cheap Amazon front spool valve gaskets instead of doing it properly with the Honda part, the P3497 should not come back.