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Clunk in reverse

I bought a used '04 Odyssey in November with 42k miles, and have experienced the clunk when shifting into reverse when first starting the vehicle in cold weather.

I find that if I start the engine and put it in neutral and let it warm up for a minute or two, there is no clunk when I shift into reverse.

I haven't seen this mentioned in other threads on the subject.
 
I'm tellin you...Holy crap I thought the transmission fell out or a Rhino ran into the van the other day when we went out to dinner .....It was about 5 degrees....And BANG!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Altima does not do this at all.....Can;t be good for the tranny:eek:
 
wild willy said:
I'm tellin you...Holy crap I thought the transmission fell out or a Rhino ran into the van the other day when we went out to dinner .....It was about 5 degrees....And BANG!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Altima does not do this at all.....Can;t be good for the tranny:eek:
Mine did it the other morning but it was -24 lol...
 
wild willy said:
-24:eek: :eek: :eek:

Now that's f'n cold.....i clunk at that temp
Heheh same here :)
 
I once had something happen lafter eaving my Ody parked outside in a below-zero blizzard once. After going into reverse, nothing seemed to happen until I gave it quite a bit of gas and BANG! something major clunked and then it started backing up. I thought it was probably frozen brakes, but who knows.

Mine makes a noise when going into reverse, but not enough to shake the vehicle, just a loud clicking noise.

Also, mine is still downshifting hard, mostly from 3rd to 2nd gear, and this is enough to give a bit of a jerk for sure! Seems to happen most when decelerating slowly or moderately slowly. I've only gotten 2,000 miles, but am starting to loose hope that it's a break-in issue. I plan on having them look at it at my first oil change.

-jeff
 
Jeff, there is no break-in period for a transmission. It either works right or it doesn't.

Yours sounds like it needs to see the dealer.
 
wild willy said:
I'm tellin you...Holy crap I thought the transmission fell out or a Rhino ran into the van the other day when we went out to dinner .....It was about 5 degrees....And BANG!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Altima does not do this at all.....Can;t be good for the tranny:eek:
Ours shifted BUTTERY SMOOTH with NO PERCEIVED EXCESSIVE NOISES...on a MINUS 20 DEGREE (Fahrenheit) MORNING....

And our Accord behaves in the same manner....

Wild Willy Must Flog the sh** outta that ODY???



:ahh:
 
I started using Lubegard Red in both Ody's since October 2007. Positive results fairly quickly, as well. See this thread:

Lubegard users?

Forgot to mention that the reverse engagement clunk is much-diminished since adding the Lubegard to the ATF.

Regards, OF
 
I have same problem on my 2000 Honda Odyssey with 164K miles with the clunk noise.

The transmission was rebuilt 18 months ago (June 2011) at 141K miles. The motor mounts were replaced when transmission was replaced.

the "clunk" noise appeared in Nov 2011 when cold in the morning and I change gear from PARK to REVERSE. The "clunk" does not happen when I put it back on PARK and try again and it does not happen during warm weather. I live in Northern California with morning temperature in high 30sF / low 40F during winter time.

if I warm up the car for 3-4 minutes in the morning. No clunk sound when shifting from PARK to REVERSE. The key is to make sure the RPM drops below 1000.

Now, in Nov 2012, the clunk noise appeared again since it's almost winter.

Brought the car to the shop where the tranny was rebuilt last year. The mechanic called and said they replaced the 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] gear oil pressure switch because the car had this code even the Check Engine Light was not on. However, the noise is still there and he said it does not harm the transmission. I have been driving the car for one year since I first heard the clunk noise and still no other problems so far (fingers crossed) ...

I have to admit that Honda & Acura transmissions are JUNK. 2 weeks ago, I replaced the tranny on my Acura 2001 TL which has 156K miles. Acura & Honda = JUNK Transmission
 
Hi
My trani on 2002 ODYSSEY was doing the some in cold mornings. I found that if the HIGH RPM in choke cycle on cold engine was responsible for this, and I added by micro switch, small resistor in value 1100 OHMS parallel to the ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR. So when the cold engine was on HIGH RPM, before shift to reverse I used the switch to switch from CHOKE to CHOKE OFF by holding the switch ON by 2 seconds. The RPM went from around 1150 to bellow 900 RPM. at this moment I was able to easy, with no any clunking noises shift from P to R. The switch was operated only by 2 sec, and was open up to next cold start. I was using this modification for around 1 year with no any issue.
NOW I FOUND PROBLEM WITH ENGINE BACK MOUNT. After replaced the mount, the problem completely is gone so I just removed my previous modification. Sorry for my English..... Jan T.
 
It is ususally the engine mounts when the reverse klunk hits ! I had a 91 Mazda 626 that di the same thing when shifting into reverse the motor mounts crack and that causes the klunk. It seems to me this happens mostly on Japanese made vehicles as opposed to US vehicles.
Hi
My trani on 2002 ODYSSEY was doing the some in cold mornings. I found that if the HIGH RPM in choke cycle on cold engine was responsible for this, and I added by micro switch, small resistor in value 1100 OHMS parallel to the ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR. So when the cold engine was on HIGH RPM, before shift to reverse I used the switch to switch from CHOKE to CHOKE OFF by holding the switch ON by 2 seconds. The RPM went from around 1150 to bellow 900 RPM. at this moment I was able to easy, with no any clunking noises shift from P to R. The switch was operated only by 2 sec, and was open up to next cold start. I was using this modification for around 1 year with no any issue.
NOW I FOUND PROBLEM WITH ENGINE BACK MOUNT. After replaced the mount, the problem completely is gone so I just removed my previous modification. Sorry for my English..... Jan T.
 
When I switched to Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF, most of that cold weather, first start-of-the-day clunk I had shifting from P to R went away. Adding Lubegard Red did the rest, noticeably quickly, too.

Still get the clunk once in a great, great while, but it hasn't been bad at all, compared to the way it was before I switched to synthetic ATF (Valvoline MaxLife is synthetic) and started using Lubegard.

OF
 
I have 03 ODYSSEY with 135k mile on it.
Last year, it gave me a check engine light with occasion blinking D and TCS light.
I changed the front O2 senor, and all the problem went away.

But, now my trani is having the reverse clunk in the cold morning. (I have not try the shift to D first method yet)
My trani has been
leaking very slowly for past couple of years and I have been putting a quart of Valvoline brand ATF oil every 5 to 6 month or so.
(I brought the Van to shop and they could not find the where it was leaking from unless take the whole trani out)

Anyway, I keep adding ATF since and someone told me DO NOT use any other brand than HONDA genuine ATF oil.
I just ordered whole box of Honda DW1 and I will change over this weekend.
I hope this will solve cluck (and
slow leak)

We will see.

Also, any of you used
ATP AT-205 to stop the trani leak??

 
How many quarts of trans fluid might one expect to be actually drained and refilled with fresh fluid when taken to repair shop? I got a recent estimate for $169 for flush and fill? Could someone here advise me as to be best cost effective way to get my trans as clean as possible and replace with fresh fluid. I can not afford to replace the trans should it fail.
 
About 3.5 quarts of ATF will drain out. $169 for a drain and fill is a high price, considering it's an easier job than changing the engine oil and filter. (If that price is for multiple drain & fill's, that's another story. Also, Honda does not recommend flushing this transmission.)

Shop around some more, including the dealer. In my area, their prices for routine service are very competitive, although their turnaround is often slower.

Dave
 
How many quarts of trans fluid might one expect to be actually drained and refilled with fresh fluid when taken to repair shop? I got a recent estimate for $169 for flush and fill? Could someone here advise me as to be best cost effective way to get my trans as clean as possible and replace with fresh fluid. I can not afford to replace the trans should it fail.
Did you ever call that shop to see what they do for a 'flush'? It can mean very different things.
Each single drain and fill is approx 3.5 qts.
Buffalo4
 
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