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2001 Odyssey - 216K

Original plugs replaced at dealer around 95k. Which is the correct replacement plug... PZFR5F-11 or IZFR5K11? I saw some earlier information about the IZFR5K11 lasting longer... is that correct?

Also, the last 80k has been all freeway driving over the past 2 years in southern California desert... so i'm not sure if that increased or decreases the risk of plugs seizing. Dealer wants $358 (and only $130 of that is labor) due to the price of their plugs... that's the killer.. because the above plugs can be found for less than $10 each online... tough call for me... I'm experienced.. but have never broken off a plug...


Thanks,
nlitend1
 

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NGK PZFR5F-11 (NGK #4363) is the correct replacement plug for the 1999-2004 Odyssey. This is a double-platinum spark plug (platinum on both electrodes).

The NGK IZFR5K11 (NGK #3657) has iridium only on the center electrode. The ground (side) electrode is platinum.

Unknown which lasts longer. I'd go with the stock PZFR5F-11; buy 6 on ebay for a decent price, replace them yourself. There are more than a few threads on how to replace the plugs, namely the right tools and extensions. There are purpose-built spark plug sockets sets out there, like the one by GearWrench, with swivel ("wobble") extensions attached to the socket.

OF
 

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NGK PZFR5F-11 (NGK #4363) is the correct replacement plug for the 1999-2004 Odyssey. This is a double-platinum spark plug (platinum on both electrodes).

The NGK IZFR5K11 (NGK #3657) has iridium only on the center electrode. The ground (side) electrode is platinum.

Unknown which lasts longer. I'd go with the stock PZFR5F-11; buy 6 on ebay for a decent price, replace them yourself. There are more than a few threads on how to replace the plugs, namely the right tools and extensions. There are purpose-built spark plug sockets sets out there, like the one by GearWrench, with swivel ("wobble") extensions attached to the socket.

OF
Thank you. I think i'll give it a go. I think this is the wrench you're referring to...Gearwrench 80546. Would that be sufficient for starting the plugs too or should I look up what size tubing i would need to fit over the insulator to start them by hand?

As far as AS compound...I am thinking of getting this permatex AS compound on amazon. Do you have an advice on how much is a "small amount"? It seems you can really mess up the torquing of the plugs if you use too much according to some threads.

Also, i've seen a couple on your posts on torque wrenches. Would this Tekton 3/8" wrench be one you would get or should I look for something better? I have a 1/2" wrench but want to get a smaller/lower torque one for precise torquing..say under 40 ft lbs.

Thank you

nlitend1
 

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Original spark plugs at 180,000 miles | Picture | What I Experienced

Removed from WARM engine. No debris in plug corridors...no blowing-out/vacuuming needed.
3/6 came out easily... no PB Blaster needed... normal resistance when unscrewing.
1/6 came out TOO easily... I'm surprised I didn't see blow-by... but, no blow-by was seen.
2/6 came out with some resistance... no PB Blaster needed... had to be very cautious backing these out... could feel them wanting to bind.

Replaced with NGK PZFR5F-11, Stock # 4363. Gapped to .044... pretty much the way they came in the box.
Used thread chaser. However, it was binding even with a small amount of anti-seize. Only got it about 1/4-1/2 the way in the first two plugs. Stopped using it after the second plug... not willing to risk damage.
Used a small amount of anti-seize on plug threads. Hand tightened all.
Torqued to 13 ft-lb using a visual-gauge wrench... didn't trust click-type. Some plugs required a full turn plus a little bit; some required only a 1/2 turn or so.

Picture of plugs is below. Plugs are laid out as if you're standing in front of the van and working on the engine.

IMG_0400.JPG
 

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Those plugs all look good.

That Permatex product is exactly the same antiseize I've been using for years in all aluminum head engines, as far as plug changes go.

How much is very little? Man, I put just enough to coat a couple threads in the middle with the tip of my pinky. That's it. Nothing cosmic.

Enjoy the next 180,000 miles! :nice:



OF
 

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Easiest $300 I've ever saved. Plugs were in for about 125k miles and I was really worried about them being seized. Fortunately they came out very cleanly without issue. Whole job took less than an hour...easiest V6 spark plug change ever... great engineering by Honda!

Used a very small dab of the permatex anti-seize even though the plugs I removed (installed by dealer around 95k) did not. The plugs seated just fine and the 13lb torque spec seemed very reasonable...just beyond seating the plugs.

Any feedback on how my plugs look? I laid them out as if you're standing in front of the car...(passenger side front plug is lower left).

2016-08-07 10.36.50.jpg

Thanks again guys!

nlitend1
 

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The tips and the white shroud around are looking great for 125K miles. Did you use dab of silicon on the coil? That would keep off the rust marks on the porcelain.

The old spark plugs tell you that the engine is running great.
 

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The tips and the white shroud around are looking great for 125K miles. Did you use dab of silicon on the coil? That would keep off the rust marks on the porcelain.

The old spark plugs tell you that the engine is running great.
Thank you! And yes, i did use a small amount of silicone on the inside of the boots.

nlitend1
 

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Any feedback on how my plugs look?....Thanks again guys!

nlitend1
Sir, back in the day when spark came from a single coil attached to a distributor and was motivated by a set of breaker points and a condenser, I would have held the Pope hostage to get plugs looking that good after just a year of operation. You got 125,000 miles, and like sontakke says, they look fine. Better than fine.

OF
 

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I used to change them every year and that is when I discovered to stay away from Bosch on a Honda. At that time Bosch had just came out with fancy looking platinum wire plug and they were visually stunning and the packaging was incredible. I tried at least three different Bosch heat ranges before realizing that NGK however drab they might look, were the best thing for my 83 Honda Prelude.
 

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IMG_0049.jpg IMG_0048.jpg
First picture is rear 3. Second picture is front 3. Rear 3 smelled extremely old.

Just picked up a 02 odyssey with 180k miles. Wanted to go ahead and see what was in there. I'm fighting a surging idle problem as well. Figured new plugs couldn't hurt. Put in iridiums. No change in idle issue but at least I know what's in there.
 

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View attachment 93666 View attachment 93674
First picture is rear 3. Second picture is front 3. Rear 3 smelled extremely old.

Just picked up a 02 odyssey with 180k miles. Wanted to go ahead and see what was in there. I'm fighting a surging idle problem as well. Figured new plugs couldn't hurt. Put in iridiums. No change in idle issue but at least I know what's in there.
Assuming a surge at idle -- probably the idle air bypass valve. It is a pain to remove and then clean or replace -- search for lots of posts on this. Try removing the 4 inch intake tube (goes between the air cleaner and the throttle body) and squirting some carb cleaner (or better, some fuel system cleaner) down the small hole in the inside of the throttle body, near the butterfly valve, that is the air bypass passage, while the engine is hot and let it "cook" overnight -- this may dislodge some of the gunk and allow the valve to become unstuck. You may need a syringe and a short length of I.V. tubing to fit into the hole.
 

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Yep. Replaced the valve. Cleaned up the throttle body and intake a little. Adjusted the idle and all is well. For some reason, someone had messed with the idle screw and had put some kind of sealant over it.

But she's running great now!!
 

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rear Ignition coil #3 blocked by tubing behind?

Falks who changed driver side rear spark plug, please help!, Having problem with taking the ignition coil out because it is blocked by T metal tubing behind it. It is rear driver's side ( = cylinder # 3). Is this normal? I searched and searched web and this forum, no one mentioned this. What can I do? Just bend the tubing? Not sure its ok to do that. Please help. Thanks!

Info about the car and problem
2000 Oddy 230K. Multiple misfire codes, ERG IAC and 02 Circuit low voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1) codes, TCS light on. very rough idling and misfire. Record from prev. owner shows ERG valve work done last year. Coil drop tested and only the driver side rear coil sounds not functioning. And yes the particular coil in question looks bad, hope the spark plug thread is not too rusted and it would come out! :(
 

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Not had that problem on my '03.
There should be some play in the coil position with it pulled out that far. Maybe push down on the pipe so as to deflect, but not bend (admittedly a fine line if that is aluminum). And at the same time pull up on the coil whilst twisting/jiggling it out.
Hard to tell from the pics, but you may need to rotate one of those spring clips out of the way.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I tried to wiggle out the coil pulling it up, while pushing down the aluminum tubing, but it wouldn't clear. Yes the tubing clips can be rotated to give more room, but it appeared the coil is blocked by aluminum part between the rubber tubing first.
I wonder whether tubing is repositioned from original spot. I will take a look again and take pics where the tube meets the fire wall.

Not had that problem on my '03.
There should be some play in the coil position with it pulled out that far. Maybe push down on the pipe so as to deflect, but not bend (admittedly a fine line if that is aluminum). And at the same time pull up on the coil whilst twisting/jiggling it out.
Hard to tell from the pics, but you may need to rotate one of those spring clips out of the way.
 

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GrayOdy.. When I changed the plugs on my 00 Gray Ody, I did not recall having an issue. That was a few years ago. The "tubing" must have been re-positioned at some point in the past. Or the coil is not correct.
 

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It may well be that your motor mounts are shot. Put a jack under the oil pan (with a wooden block or other pad to distribute the force), and lift the engine a bit. That'll should give you the needed clearance.
 
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